tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58547419389555685452024-03-06T09:09:44.135-08:00ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com--RC, Arduino, Programming, & Electronics(Formerly known as, "Getting Started in Electric Radio Controlled Aircraft").
A site to share my RC passion and enthusiasm with others, filtered through the lens of an aeronautical engineer and hobbyist, and to share with others some of the interesting technical things I've learned about electric RC aircraft, helicopters, gyroscopic precession, LiPo batteries, motors, ESCs, sensors, Arduino microcontroller programming, circuits & electrical engineering, etc.
~Gabriel
Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.comBlogger661999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-14426368342563985762022-05-30T14:58:00.010-07:002022-05-30T19:22:32.468-07:00My New Website<h3 style="text-align: left;"><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>My new main website: <a href="https://GabrielStaples.com/" target="_blank">GabrielStaples.com</a></li><li>The main places I contribute to the internet these days: </li><ol><li><a href="https://stackexchange.com/users/3032157/gabriel-staples?tab=accounts" target="_blank">Stack Overflow & other Stack Exchange sites</a> </li><li>My GitHub repositories: <a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy" target="_blank">https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy</a></li><ol><li>Become <i>my 1st sponsor</i> on GitHub or Patreon: <a href="https://github.com/sponsors/ElectricRCAircraftGuy" target="_blank">https://github.com/sponsors/ElectricRCAircraftGuy</a></li></ol></ol></ol></h3><div><br /></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-73752863095088049882018-12-12T08:53:00.001-08:002019-06-08T16:32:00.176-07:00Products & Manuals<br />
<u><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Electric RC Aircraft Guy Products:</span></b></u><br />
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/04/computa-pranksta-user-manual.html" target="_blank">Computa Pranksta USB Mouse & Keyboard Device User Manual</a></li>
<ol>
<li><img height="200" src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81lAmpj1HvL._SL1470_.jpg" width="185" /></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Jiggler-50-Settings-Makes-Hacked-Randomly-Gibberish/dp/B06ZYZ2GTB/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&linkCode=ll1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=ba75dd1af9b36976c113fc68cfa83b9e&language=en_US" target="_blank">Buy on Amazon</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/232694181416" target="_blank">Buy on Ebay</a></li>
</ol>
<li>8x10 Einstein Quote calligraphy PCB art, by Alexa Staples: "I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious."</li>
<ol><br />
<li>CAD rendering: <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyiF2wANo29l3mii4UHZlhX_dblyJdHlWRrprOIt_IZlkdtCSxJqBY5_7NJ7EXPfiIarNVi3ZK0aLQgsCP7ga6e5-iQ2efCZhBD75J1DKPXoVTUbRPaAK6bPw7OyzKKvJTn2VDcpdb3AN4/s1600/20181212-1835hrs--Selection_693.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="727" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyiF2wANo29l3mii4UHZlhX_dblyJdHlWRrprOIt_IZlkdtCSxJqBY5_7NJ7EXPfiIarNVi3ZK0aLQgsCP7ga6e5-iQ2efCZhBD75J1DKPXoVTUbRPaAK6bPw7OyzKKvJTn2VDcpdb3AN4/s200/20181212-1835hrs--Selection_693.png" width="179" /></a></li>
<li>Actual photographs of front and back:<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLxmufgWtNdIPSyKOo4VwIhDRWLD7Eu3ZAlSy7l_3MIzPluzYNZQXtp_qR-WiF6-vmNldw4Tl1fvgGvvlTLaof_kTFS0urvOYHFgMCPyr8t6H8N19iVjelxj6pVsU9IfrTSUFULIO3kSXD/s1600/Einstein+quote0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="919" data-original-width="1500" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLxmufgWtNdIPSyKOo4VwIhDRWLD7Eu3ZAlSy7l_3MIzPluzYNZQXtp_qR-WiF6-vmNldw4Tl1fvgGvvlTLaof_kTFS0urvOYHFgMCPyr8t6H8N19iVjelxj6pVsU9IfrTSUFULIO3kSXD/s640/Einstein+quote0.jpg" width="640" /></a></li>
<li>Actual photos on display in the entryway of our house:<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQE9nn7ksIhue2hXPeq-73zFLV_PnM_KGJlzXiiWQfHe7NMHu5eCuOmYFJTiSNG9VekWnCjp0_W2J0mWSdecRjLkocfg_UY-EDbT0kKVI9m0AbImlPAY1Q6UdQ8-viD5ULC3pQG3WatlOq/s1600/Einstein+quote.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQE9nn7ksIhue2hXPeq-73zFLV_PnM_KGJlzXiiWQfHe7NMHu5eCuOmYFJTiSNG9VekWnCjp0_W2J0mWSdecRjLkocfg_UY-EDbT0kKVI9m0AbImlPAY1Q6UdQ8-viD5ULC3pQG3WatlOq/s640/Einstein+quote.jpg" width="640" /></a></li>
<li>Buy Now on Etsy! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/eRCaGuy" target="_blank">https://www.etsy.com/shop/eRCaGuy</a></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Buy Now on Amazon!</b>: <a href="https://amzn.to/2WWIwKo">https://amzn.to/2WWIwKo</a></span></li>
</ol>
<ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<ul>
</ul>
<u><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Coming Soon!:</span></b></u><br />
<ol><ol>
</ol>
<li>Electric Skateboard Brake Saver Charger Adapter</li>
<ol>
<li>Preliminary photos & info. on Reddit: <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/MeepoBoards/comments/9p6zz1/brake_failure_on_hills_solved_with_a_custom/" target="_blank">https://www.reddit.com/r/MeepoBoards/comments/9p6zz1/brake_failure_on_hills_solved_with_a_custom/</a> </li>
</ol>
</ol>
Written: 12 Dec. 2018<br />
Last Updated: 8 June 2019<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-small;">History (newest on top):</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">20190608 - Added photos of Einstein quote and link to the sales page on Amazon</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">20181220 - Einstein calligraphy quote now on Etsy! So, moved this entry from the Coming Soon section to the top in the Products section.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">20181212 - first written</span><br />
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: products, manuals, electric rc aircraft guy computa pranksta user manual, electric rc aircraft guy computer prankster user manual<br />
<br />
Draft Time: [30 min]<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ESrHILARL7Y/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ESrHILARL7Y?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
<br />
Watch video above.<br />
<i>Direct link: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESrHILARL7Y" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESrHILARL7Y</a>.</i><br />
<br />
I go through:<br />
<br />
1) How to download and "install" (copy over) the necessary (and pre-compiled) freeroute.jar ("freeRouting.jar") binary.<br />
<br />
2) (Briefly): how to use the auto-router to route a couple boards (1 trivial, 1 less trivial), including back-importing the routed boards back into KiCad.<br />
<br />
Note: the crux of this demo is done by 6:00! By this point I have shown how to install the freeroute.jar executable file and use the auto-router to route a board! Feel free to stop at this point.<br />
<br />
3) How to download the KiCad source code and demo project files (ex: to use as demo tools to test the autorouter).<br />
<br />
4) How to work around a minor bug in the autorouter that sometimes makes it not allow you to output the routed board .ses file.<br />
<br />
5) How to rename board layers.<br />
<br />
6) How to do manual board cleanup, including DRC (Design Rules Check), manual trace modifications and dragging, Interactive Router Settings (very brief mention), board ground fill (brief), and how to fix ground fill problems such as floating fill islands which need to be connected via a few vias and traces.<br />
<br />
7) The end-result is a nice, auto-routed board (auto-routing is so convenient!) with minimal hand-cleanup ready to be sent off to the manufacturer.<br />
<br />
I'm super happy to have the auto-router working so that I can use it for quick-and-dirty jobs that require a faster design speed and less manual work at the sacrifice of a bit of perfection.<br />
<br />
Thanks for watching!<br />
<br />
Links you will need from the video:<br />
1) <a href="https://freerouting.org/freerouting/using-with-kicad" target="_blank">https://freerouting.org/freerouting/using-with-kicad</a><br />
2) <a href="https://github.com/KiCad/kicad-source-mirror" target="_blank">https://github.com/KiCad/kicad-source-mirror</a><br />
<br />
By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 3 July 2018<br />
Last Updated: 3 July 2018<br />
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: KiCad autorouter, KiCad auto-router, KiCad freerouter, KiCad freerouting, using the KiCad freerouter, PCB layout, DRC check, Design Rules Checking<br />
<br />
Draft Time: ~ 3 hrs.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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Written: 6 June 2018<br />
Last Updated: 7 June 2018<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihAmlLkA81_-0uCyZjmPtQMvilrP74Z98mvy3oInsx9fwypaFQUAD2-YPLuVqL5tdrm60FlOc60ujq88YfiCuaPF676f12_aFCbeMFH9X6qvyCNjzXkC8qScSpBDd7RaM6ky9WUHC-sO2F/s1600/quadcopter+SIL+simulation.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1013" data-original-width="1280" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihAmlLkA81_-0uCyZjmPtQMvilrP74Z98mvy3oInsx9fwypaFQUAD2-YPLuVqL5tdrm60FlOc60ujq88YfiCuaPF676f12_aFCbeMFH9X6qvyCNjzXkC8qScSpBDd7RaM6ky9WUHC-sO2F/s200/quadcopter+SIL+simulation.PNG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Quadcopter navigation algorithm SIL test (<a href="https://youtu.be/LjuPA43HceQ?t=74" target="_blank">live video</a>).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechatronics" target="_blank">mechatronics</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_theory" target="_blank">control theory</a>, testing is an important part of controller validation. You need to run experiments to prove that your software/analog/digital controller, actuator, algorithm, etc, does what it’s supposed to do. Experiments, however, can be expensive, time-consuming, difficult,<br />
dangerous, or even impossible to test under all conditions. Therefore, you can do Hardware in the Loop (HIL) testing and Software in the Loop (SIL) testing/simulation to aid the testing, verification and validation of your controller without having to resort to pure, fully-physical testing with actual products under actual conditions.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>HIL vs SIL:</b></span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOImcP0XI4RI8VtQssLUaPTlORBEBiGS1o3OLOeXNnQkCbbWN1tWrCFe3EklIjRzJOUj2k_YDpuzOVD87KcyYDdabjib35AGORusGUckujM8oG8pbg3664wOW-0K87mWftfxu5DTLUjygf/s1600/IMG_20180603_010158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOImcP0XI4RI8VtQssLUaPTlORBEBiGS1o3OLOeXNnQkCbbWN1tWrCFe3EklIjRzJOUj2k_YDpuzOVD87KcyYDdabjib35AGORusGUckujM8oG8pbg3664wOW-0K87mWftfxu5DTLUjygf/s320/IMG_20180603_010158.jpg" width="320" /></a><b>Hardware in the Loop (HIL)</b> is a testing technique where you can test a <i>component </i>of your complete system, or your <i>complete hardware system itself</i>, on hardware in a non-final configuration. This might be sitting on the bench, or in a laboratory, where your software is connected to the hardware but running off-board, for example, when it will be embedded on-board for the final system. As one HIL example: you might test a steering control algorithm from a laptop to see how well it actuates a physical, real-life hardware steering actuator sitting on a test bench. In the final product, maybe your controller will run on a microcontroller or other embedded system, such as an embedded Linux computer, but for HIL you might just run it from your laptop, but have a real piece of hardware in the control and/or feedback (if any) loop. In this example, your PC controls the actuator. This is hardware-in-the-loop. HIL might also be as simple as writing a control algorithm in C or C++ that you run on your laptop initially, but then you port it to a microcontroller to see how fast it runs on the microcontroller as compared to on your PC. This way you can tune parameters and loop rates and things, now knowing the physical capabilities of your intended hardware. HIL can also involve measuring system response, such as velocities, accelerations, physical deflections, et cetera--really any physical phenomena.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhULK7rTx3PsLlYRIZG7fo4a3sYaNv_YFeehZAPSz3v4-Aubr8y4JInfhY32fwp1dLTatCCmB8j4Wm1hpRg59kZIC-3qUqeNUUwRXRVyPt37TTYrJw6Cgbheu39t8tUSkimnkDoU8bVRj1U/s1600/IMG_20180603_001940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhULK7rTx3PsLlYRIZG7fo4a3sYaNv_YFeehZAPSz3v4-Aubr8y4JInfhY32fwp1dLTatCCmB8j4Wm1hpRg59kZIC-3qUqeNUUwRXRVyPt37TTYrJw6Cgbheu39t8tUSkimnkDoU8bVRj1U/s320/IMG_20180603_001940.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Software in the Loop (SIL)</b> is essentially the same thing as HIL except that instead of having a real piece of hardware in your control and/or feedback loop, as discussed above, you have a piece of software <i>simulating </i>your hardware you want in the loop. In a SIL form of the above HIL example, you might have a piece of software which <i>simulates</i> the steering actuator, and you simply send control inputs to that instead of to the real thing. You might simulate the actual interfaces, actual outputs, response, or any combination of these. This could be a simple simulation, such as simply adding a delay to your control signal and then outputting an estimated deflection value. Your simulation might also model the actuator fully as a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant_(control_theory)" target="_blank">plant</a>.<br />
<br />
A super simple SIL test might be one where you just add in control signal delays to "simulate" the actual communication or response delays which occur when passing the signal from one physical device to another, or to simulate other delays due to motor response time, inertia of physical systems, etc. The simulation logic for a pass-through hardware communication module could be as simple as, "when I get a command, wait 200 ms before passing it on to the actuator." Boom! You just "simulated" a control signal delay! There's your SIL!<br />
<br />
In all cases above, the delineator between "what is HIL" versus "what is SIL" can be somewhat fuzzy. Sometimes you are using both at once. The definitions seem to be somewhat vague to me, and perhaps aren't super-well-defined in the industry.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">In an attempt to define them succinctly, here are my definitions:</span></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Definition Attempt #1:</b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><b>Hardware in the Loop (HIL) </b>is testing any software/firmware/algorithm/control system in such a way that a piece of <i>actual hardware</i> is in your communication stream in a system which is either open-ended (feed-forward only), or with feedback.</li>
<li><b>Software in the Loop (SIL)</b> is testing any software/firmware/algorithm/control system in such a way that a piece of <i>software simulating a piece of hardware</i>, or simulating a physical component, or a physical system, including possibly its response or other characteristics, is in your communication stream in a system which is either open-ended (feed-forward only), or with feedback.</li>
</ol>
<br />
<b>Definition Attempt #2 (let's make is shorter):</b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><b>HIL</b> is any testing where you have an <i>actual</i> piece of product <i>hardware</i> in your test.</li>
<li><b>SIL</b> is any testing where you have a <i>simulated</i> piece of actual product hardware (in other words: software in place of hardware) in your test.</li>
</ol>
<br />
<center>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">How is SIL different from just using a simulator then? </span></b><br />
Answer: a simulator simulates <i>response</i>. It provides the <i>output</i> that results from your <i>input</i>. Your <i>controller</i> must provide the input to the simulator. Once it does that, you've got SIL. A simulator by itself is not a complete system. It requires a controller to give it inputs. In this way, it seems logical to me that Software in the Loop testing might also be called Software in the Loop <i>simulation</i>.<br />
<br />
This website confirms that notion, when they say: "The term ‘software-in-the-loop testing’, or SIL testing, is used to describe a test methodology where executable code such as algorithms (or even an entire controller strategy), usually written for a particular mechatronic system, is tested within a modelling environment that can help prove or test the software...SIL testing and simulation can thus be a useful technique for software proving at earlier stages of the design." (<a href="http://www.add2.co.uk/applications/sil/" target="_blank">http://www.add2.co.uk/applications/sil/</a>).<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Real-life SIL Example:</span></b><br />
One common example of this is where you write a control algorithm intended for a real device, but then <i>simulate</i> its physics-based response to your inputs. After one iteration, your controller looks at the new, simulated physical state of the vehicle, compares it to the desired physical state, and gives it another command. The simulator (SIL unit) then simulates its response over one time step to that control input, and outputs a new physical state. Your controller now compares this new physical state to the desired physical state and sends another command, and the simulation/SIL test continues in this manner.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihAmlLkA81_-0uCyZjmPtQMvilrP74Z98mvy3oInsx9fwypaFQUAD2-YPLuVqL5tdrm60FlOc60ujq88YfiCuaPF676f12_aFCbeMFH9X6qvyCNjzXkC8qScSpBDd7RaM6ky9WUHC-sO2F/s1600/quadcopter+SIL+simulation.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1013" data-original-width="1280" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihAmlLkA81_-0uCyZjmPtQMvilrP74Z98mvy3oInsx9fwypaFQUAD2-YPLuVqL5tdrm60FlOc60ujq88YfiCuaPF676f12_aFCbeMFH9X6qvyCNjzXkC8qScSpBDd7RaM6ky9WUHC-sO2F/s320/quadcopter+SIL+simulation.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quadcopter navigation algorithm SIL test (<a href="https://youtu.be/LjuPA43HceQ?t=74" target="_blank">live video</a>).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This image to the right shows an overhead view of a quadcopter navigation algorithm SIL test/simulation I wrote. Watch the video and you'll see exactly what I just described above, but in real-time. When I say real-time in this case, I mean the simulation is running as fast as the computer can process it (using MATLAB--which is SLOW, especially when plotting [note: I'd try using Python next time instead]), although it is <i>not</i> showing the vehicle moving at actual speed. The real-time ratio (simulation speed/vehicle speed), is in the top-right of the window, and is somewhere around 0.20. The funky-shaped blue path are difficult (impossible)-to-follow waypoints I arbitrarily created, and the red path is the vehicle's path history. The red arrow is the vehicle's <i>velocity vector</i>, and the green arrow is the vehicle's <i>acceleration vector due to thrust</i>. The black dot along the path is the point the control algorithm is trying to aim the vehicle's velocity vector, by manipulating its thrust vector. The navigation algorithm uses real physics--the physic equations of motion, to do this calculation, based on real quadcopter physics for a static, hovering vehicle. Vehicle thrust vector rate of change is not modeled, so you'll see the thrust vector instantaneously jump in impossible ways after the target point passes some waypoints. <a href="https://youtu.be/LjuPA43HceQ?t=74" target="_blank">Watch the video here</a>.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Real-life HIL Example:</span></b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BlRk_1ZC6uBqB6-gLB19fSFCuVd_RsPISSnNdRedlFrQI-6AIbyvD_W5PaDJs-TMCFFNMY2R7JNJkB-5UWuGhkKzJrZwS-hKQWLUaSeXo57CC_ptX9-U-BF1R5rcADcU6uB_5_I_qOJV/s1600/quadcopter+HIL+test1.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1280" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BlRk_1ZC6uBqB6-gLB19fSFCuVd_RsPISSnNdRedlFrQI-6AIbyvD_W5PaDJs-TMCFFNMY2R7JNJkB-5UWuGhkKzJrZwS-hKQWLUaSeXo57CC_ptX9-U-BF1R5rcADcU6uB_5_I_qOJV/s320/quadcopter+HIL+test1.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quadcopter navigation algorithm HIL test (<a href="https://youtu.be/H5kXzpPFdII?t=251" target="_blank">live video</a>).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After proving to myself that my physics-based navigation algorithm probably really would work in real life, by running the SIL test/simulation on my path-following algorithm above, I then moved to a HIL test. Here, I left my control algorithm on the laptop, but I routed its signals out of the laptop and then wirelessly to a commercial-off-the-shelf quadcopter flying in real life in an indoor flight lab. This is a true HIL test because my control algorithm was still running on my laptop, <i>offboard the vehicle</i>, whereas in a final product it would run on some embedded system (ex: a microcontroller or embedded Linux Computer) <i>on the vehicle</i>. Like I said above, it can get a little fuzzy sometimes when trying to figure out where HIL stops and simply "experimental testing", "prototype testing," or "product testing" begins, and there are many ways to try and delineate and talk about these, but in this case it is clearly a HIL test like I said since the control algorithm is literally running live on a regular laptop sitting on a table in the flight lab. In either case, the HIL test was also a complete success (after adding in a time constant, tau, to limit the commanded delta velocity_vector each control loop rather than trying to command it all at once) and I am thrilled to announce that physics works! :) It was absolutely exhilarating for me to see the fruits of my labors like this in such a real way. What a cool project!<br />
<br />
Here just below and to the right you can see a photograph of the quadcopter flying autonomously in the room under the control of my navigation/path-following algorithm. You can watch the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5kXzpPFdII&feature=youtu.be&t=251" target="_blank">video here</a>. That is the 2nd of two videos. The <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY3oh2GIfCI" target="_blank">1st video is here</a>.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbAzSAWE73GHIVQz-tDAM28fRyMp81ef5FSpNYCrmIoSejOSZmLT69lSV9LvyFZyuf45obSkL0BjR-qa5YkRkzbj2s2xmGgT2O5D7FwpsDXAl6U902C4YhFVoaADsfgXIo0YJqzkVacnS/s1600/quadcopter+HIL+test+image2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="1280" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbAzSAWE73GHIVQz-tDAM28fRyMp81ef5FSpNYCrmIoSejOSZmLT69lSV9LvyFZyuf45obSkL0BjR-qa5YkRkzbj2s2xmGgT2O5D7FwpsDXAl6U902C4YhFVoaADsfgXIo0YJqzkVacnS/s320/quadcopter+HIL+test+image2.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quadcopter navigation algorithm HIL test (<a href="https://youtu.be/H5kXzpPFdII?t=251" style="font-size: 12.8px;" target="_blank">live video</a><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">).</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">A note about modularity:</span></b><br />
Generally, it seems to me your controller and the simulator (SIL test output algorithm) should be maintained as separate, distinct software modules so that you can easily use one without the other. Once a software simulator is created, you can "plug" your controller into the software simulator directly and run a bench-top SIL test. Once a HIL test is created, you can "plug" your controller into the hardware directly and run a HIL bench-top test. Once your product is created, you can integrate your controller into the product itself and run a physical, experimental test. The way in which you integrate your controller into each of these tests is your call as an engineer. You do it how you see best. The level at which you simulate things, and the fidelity of your simulation or HIL setup is your call as an engineer. The way and at what level you integrate signals from one module to another for testing purposes is all part of your engineering design. You have a lot of creative freedom.<br />
<br />
Confusing? Yeah...<br />
<br />
Fun? Yes! Hard? Super! Worth it? Absolutely!<br />
<br />
<i>Feedback from control systems experts or those who know better is welcome. Leave comments below.</i><br />
<br />
Note: this article is not endorsed by nor affiliated with my employer in any way.<br />
<br />
What spurred me to think about and write this response? Answer: this question I stumbled upon on Quora today, which was seriously lacking in answers: <a href="https://www.quora.com/What-is-Software-in-Loop-SIL" target="_blank">https://www.quora.com/What-is-Software-in-Loop-SIL</a>.<br />
<br />
Thinking about becoming an engineer!? Do it! :) Go make something great!<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Additional Reading:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_theory" target="_blank">Wikipedia - Control Theory</a></li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plant_(control_theory)" target="_blank">Wikipedia - Plant (control theory)</a></li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equations_of_motion" target="_blank">Wikipedia - Equations of Motion</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.add2.co.uk/applications/sil/" target="_blank">add2.co.uk - Software-in-the-loop testing applications</a></li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardware-in-the-loop_simulation" target="_blank">Wikipedia - Hardware-in-the-loop simulation</a></li>
<li><a href="https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Software-in-the-loop" target="_blank">Wikipedia (in Italian) - Software-in-the-loop</a> (English translation <a href="https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fit.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FSoftware-in-the-loop&edit-text=" target="_blank">here</a>--someone please go write an English version for this page already!)</li>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&ei=s88YW9_HMISA5wLJuJPgDw&q=what+is+software+in+the+loop&oq=what+is+software+in+the+loop&gs_l=psy-ab.3..35i39k1j0j0i22i30k1l8.4591.6679.0.6891.20.11.0.0.0.0.363.1761.0j5j1j2.8.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..12.8.1732...0i20i264k1j0i131k1.0.62D94NV2Pl0" target="_blank">Google search for "what is software in the loop"</a></li>
<li><a href="https://info.typhoon-hil.com/blog/power-electronics-control-design-and-testing-in-the-21st-century" target="_blank">Typhoon HIL Blog - Power Electronics Control Design & Testing in the 21st century</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: simulation, hardware in the loop testing, hardware-in-the-loop simulation, hil, software in the loop testing, software-in-the-loop simulation, sil, quadcopter, quadrotor, drone, autonomous air vehicle, MAV (Micro Air Vehicle), SUAS (Small Unmanned Aerial System, or Small Unmanned Aircraft System), Vicon motion capture system, mechatronics, robotics, indoor flight lab, 60 vicon motion capture cameras, MAVLab (Micro Air Vehicles Laboratory), Wright Patterson Air Force Base, AFRL (Air Force Research Laboratory), autonomous vehicle, autonomous robotics, unmanned systems, Arduino, Turnigy 9XR, FrSky Taranis, PPM (Pulse Position Modulation), MATLAB, path planning, path following algorithm, navigation algorithm, waypoint tracking algorithm, lead point navigation approach, vector field navigation approach, physics-based flight controller.<br />
<br />
Draft Time: [3 hrs.]<br />
Quadcopter SIL/HIL time above: 2+ yrs working at probably <50% time on it.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-43255202014683767402018-05-26T22:10:00.001-07:002018-05-26T22:14:49.491-07:00Best-value sub-$100 soldering equipment purchase I've ever made!<br />
By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 26 May 2018<br />
Last Updated: 26 May 2018<br />
<br />
Related post: <b><a href="https://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS0G_aqSP0Z41rQGHmyz9OCu-fJBSIEb1-7kysAXbsZZYnPcJa-X-yYJHdNjNBQ4j4YGgA7J5lucM5w8WirdQ63qv1iaaWIzrpQsFMaSIcNE5sViiaW7tHjdX-6w-EycHNh1mp5DiD-d1E/s1600/IMG_20180526_220318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS0G_aqSP0Z41rQGHmyz9OCu-fJBSIEb1-7kysAXbsZZYnPcJa-X-yYJHdNjNBQ4j4YGgA7J5lucM5w8WirdQ63qv1iaaWIzrpQsFMaSIcNE5sViiaW7tHjdX-6w-EycHNh1mp5DiD-d1E/s320/IMG_20180526_220318.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">My review on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VTDESOL3U-Vacuum-Desoldering-Heater/dp/B00B88FRME/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=c3cf6c5752fbd47fbdbfdc322d4aeb66" target="_blank">my latest <u>desoldering tool</u> purchase</a> (< $10)!</span></b><br />
<br />
I just bought this Velleman desoldering iron/vacuum (desoldering pump) for ~$10 on Amazon. It worked so well I wanted to share <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R24TU3YH02J8F/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00B88FRME&linkCode=ll2&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=74ed64e0cdc20df8d028d61ccb3de4ac" target="_blank">my review</a> directly, since it could have saved me dozens of hours and tons of frustration before when I was newer to soldering and trying to desolder through-hole parts with lots of legs, such as switches. It is SUCH a great value and would have prevented me from destroying or damaging several circuit boards in the past!<br />
<br />
<i><b>My Review title: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R24TU3YH02J8F/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00B88FRME&linkCode=ll2&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=74ed64e0cdc20df8d028d61ccb3de4ac" target="_blank">Best-value sub-$100 soldering equipment purchase I've ever made!</a></b></i><br />
<i>By Gabriel S on May 19, 2018</i><br />
<i>Verified Purchase</i><br />
<i></i><br />
<a name='more'></a><i><br /></i><i>I own a few hundred dollars worth of soldering equipment, and this is the best-value soldering purchase I've ever made! It heats like a champ and has tons of power and can *easily* desolder *large* through-hole components, even switches and pots the size of your thumb, as well as small stuff too! The secret? Properly tin the tip the very first time you heat it up, and treat it like a soldering iron!--ie: keep the tip wet with fresh solder while you work. *Adding* solder to a joint you want to *desolder* is a "secret" well-known by the experts because it keeps the joint fresh and flowing rather than brittle and plasticized so that the solder flows well and the joint is cleaned nicely when you press </i><i>the vacuum button. Also be sure to hold the iron vertical to get good suction when sucking. And let me repeat: if you say the iron is not hot enough you are WRONG! (in 98% of the cases). What you need to do instead is *add fresh flux-core solder* to the iron tip--get it all up inside the tip even, then place the tip over your through-hole leg to desolder and now the fresh solder will flow the heat right into the joint--press the vacuum sucker button and voila! You've just cleaned that joint perfectly! Repeat a few more times and the through-hole component can be just wiggled right out! Amazing! BEST SUB-$100 PURCHASE I'VE EVER MADE IN THE SOLDERING WORLD SO FAR (and it's only $10), and I've been in it a while: Google "Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials Electric RC Aircraft Guy" for instance and you can find me.</i><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcc-Tegkl16sv7I2BG3zcEG93p6SMW6-bxp_p8o5wZS2clr53fx7_yoNDWyQjXyfX7Eje9HSN2xMS0J0fROIuyUydXn9l9qx11wx0VxcjLekOpOo9aan5Qwv-Eo0O5Lmn_OGgCiy-xMpE/s1600/IMG_20180526_220359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcc-Tegkl16sv7I2BG3zcEG93p6SMW6-bxp_p8o5wZS2clr53fx7_yoNDWyQjXyfX7Eje9HSN2xMS0J0fROIuyUydXn9l9qx11wx0VxcjLekOpOo9aan5Qwv-Eo0O5Lmn_OGgCiy-xMpE/s320/IMG_20180526_220359.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
<i>Also, this unit *can* be cleaned. The <u>light cleaning</u>: with the iron fully heated, rapidly press the plunger a few times. It will shoot out drops of solder that were sitting up inside. The <u>heavy cleaning</u>: the vacuum tube can be removed with some force, care, and a small to medium flathead screwdriver. Search the YouTube videos.</i><br />
<i><br /></i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VTDESOL3U-Vacuum-Desoldering-Heater/dp/B00B88FRME/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=c3cf6c5752fbd47fbdbfdc322d4aeb66" target="_blank">Here is the link</a> directly if you'd like one.<br />
Note that I paid for this thing 100% myself. I did NOT get promotions or discounts, and no one told me to write this review. I did it because I love the product. That being said, I've posted this as an Amazon affiliate link, so if you use the link here when you make your purchase (please do) I'll get a few cents out of it. Thanks.<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="https://ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B00B88FRME&asins=B00B88FRME&linkId=320494c087e688654b87ff7a4d80853a&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmJSIsoWH38JATjdEZDKvfAjBUjEp5_RZ_HzswViy0e0_NbTK0SxW9WkQrw79hOFkPtHQlAds6T-VtvIZ8D0VNz_pCQMGNw7dXMZyR-pHNIP2a0fx2X1UFOVEzz2vgJ8H97jUxNoSU01PC/s1600/IMG_20180526_220441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmJSIsoWH38JATjdEZDKvfAjBUjEp5_RZ_HzswViy0e0_NbTK0SxW9WkQrw79hOFkPtHQlAds6T-VtvIZ8D0VNz_pCQMGNw7dXMZyR-pHNIP2a0fx2X1UFOVEzz2vgJ8H97jUxNoSU01PC/s320/IMG_20180526_220441.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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End<br />
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<div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Keywords: Amazon Velleman VTDESOL3U Vacuum Desoldering Pump With Heater 30W; desoldering pump; best desoldering iron; best desoldering tool; desoldering station; hot air rework station alternative; hot plate desoldering</span></div>
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Written: 28 Jan. 2018<br />
Last Updated: 28 Jan. 2018<br />
<br />
<u><b>Last Article:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2018/01/10-second-pi-3-upgrade-to-triple-network-speed.html" target="_blank">10-Second $10 Upgrade to Triple Your Raspberry Pi 3 Network Speed</a></li>
</ul>
<u><b>This Article:</b></u><br />
I just upgrade my hard drive to an SSD (Solid State Drive). Now my computer runs soooo much faster! It's usable again! No matter what operating system you have, the following instructions will work, since we will simply be using free and open source, and also no-cost, tools to copy your drive data, byte by byte, from one drive to another. In other words, the copy technique doesn't even read files, as it doesn't know what files are, so it doesn't care what file structure or format you have. It just reads bytes. I'm pretty excited that such great free tools exist. No need to buy Acronis, just do this.<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">How to clone your hard drive:</span></b><br />
<br />
1. Buy an external hard drive USB enclosure. Ex: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS31KQG/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=9f1f2fcee812dbca580a556aadf76f55" target="_blank">Sabrent Ultra Slim USB 3.0 to 2.5-Inch SATA External Aluminum Hard Drive Enclosure [Black] (EC-UK30) ($8.99)</a>.<br />
<br />
2. Buy a nice new SSD. Ex: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078DPCY3T/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=7c5bfaeb954156171518e310c9ca7e95" target="_blank">Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD</a>. Place the 860 EVO into the enclosure and plug it in.<br />
<br />
3. Make a <a href="https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/linux/create-a-bootable-ubuntu-usb-flash-drive-the-easy-way/" target="_blank">bootable USB flash drive containing Linux Ubuntu</a> 16.04, or whatever the latest LTS (Long-Term Support) version is at the time.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
4. Turn off your computer and boot onto the Ubuntu 16.04 bootable flash drive, connect to the internet, and install GNU ddrescue using the following commands:<br />
<b>sudo add-apt-repository universe</b><br />
<b>sudo apt update</b><br />
<b>sudo apt install gddrescue</b><br />
<br />
5. Open the "gparted" partition editor to look at your original drive and shrink any partitions if necessary. Make note of the drive name of both the old and new drive. Ex: they might be named <b>/dev/sda</b> and <b>/dev/sdb</b>. <b><span style="color: red;">DON'T MESS THIS UP OR YOU'LL WIPE ALL YOUR DATA IN THE NEXT STEPS. </span></b><br />
<br />
6. Make the copy using ddrescue from the command line:<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">WARNING: DON'T GET THIS BACKWARDS OR YOU'LL WIPE ALL YOUR DATA OFF THE ORIGINAL DRIVE!</span></b><br />
Format: <b>ddrescue -f -n FROM_DRIVE TO_DRIVE dd_rescue.log</b><br />
where <b>FROM_DRIVE</b> and <b>TO_DRIVE</b> are the <b>/dev</b> names from above.<br />
Ex: "<b>ddrescue -f -n /dev/sda /dev/sdb dd_rescue.log</b>"<br />
This copies from drive sda to drive sdb while saving a mapfile/logfile in dd_rescue.log in your current directory you are in when running this command.<br />
For details on what the -f and -n mean and how the command works, <a href="https://www.gnu.org/software/ddrescue/manual/ddrescue_manual.html" target="_blank">read the manual here</a> or via the man pages with the `<b>man ddrescue</b>` command.<br />
Next do "<b>ddrescue -d -f -r3 /dev/sda /dev/sdb dd_rescue.log</b>", again, with the proper /dev names from above.<br />
This uses the mapfile/logfile to now make 3 attempts (-r3) to copy any bad sectors that were previously noted as errors---in case any bad sectors exist.<br />
<br />
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7. (Optional): after cloning is complete, open up gparted again and expand ("grow") your partition to fill the rest of the disk, <i>except for a recommended 10% (or more if you like) which you will leave <u>un-partitioned</u> for the SSD to designate automatically as space reserved for "over-provisioning"</i>. This extra 10% space will be used by the SSD automatically to make data transfer more efficient and to reduce "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Write_amplification" target="_blank">write amplification</a>."<br />
<br />
Q: Is setting up over-provisioning really as simple as leaving unpartitioned space on your hard drive?<br />
A: Yes, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Write_amplification" target="_blank">Wikipedia states this</a> about over-provisioning: "Furthermore, if any SSD is set up with an overall partitioning layout smaller than 100% of the available space, that unpartitioned space will be automatically used by the SSD as over-provisioning as well." Seagate confirms this claim in its very informative article titled "<a href="https://www.seagate.com/tech-insights/ssd-over-provisioning-benefits-master-ti/" target="_blank">SSD Over-Provisioning And Its Benefits</a>," when it says: "Some SSD manufacturers provide software tools to allow for over-provisioning of drives by the user. Actually, even without special software, any user can set aside a portion of the SSD when first setting it up in the system by creating a partition that does not use the drive’s full capacity. This unclaimed space will automatically be used by the controller as dynamic over-provisioning."<br />
<br />
8. <b>DONE! THAT’S IT! The disk is now completely cloned. </b>Take the computer apart and put the new drive in. It will boot right up as if nothing changed!<br />
<br />
(Optionally) save the old hard drive in an anti-static bag in a safe place for a month or two to ensure you don't need to recover anything from it in the near future. Once you're sure your new drive is up-and-running without any issues, slap your old hard drive into your USB enclosure you bought above and use it permanently as an external backup drive!<br />
- In this case, I recommend repartitioning it with <i>gparted </i>from your bootable Ubuntu USB flash drive you created above to quickly delete the old hard drive's files and get it ready-to-go.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">How long does the cloning take?</span></b><br />
<br />
For a 750GB drive to a 1TB drive, for example, this whole process takes <b>5~7 hrs</b> using a USB 2.0 HDD enclosure, or <b>2~3 hrs</b> using a USB 3.0 HDD enclosure.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">References:</span></b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Read these background instructions here: <a href="https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/disk_cloning#Using_ddrescue" target="_blank">https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/disk_cloning#Using_ddrescue</a></li>
<ul>
<li>Note that you can also use <b>dd </b>for copying or for making a drive image to a compressed file, but <b>ddrescue </b>has the benefit of being designed to efficiently copy drive data even if drive errors or bad sectors exist, and while minimizing further data loss or damage to the disk. </li>
</ul>
<li>Read the ddrescue manual if you want: <a href="https://www.gnu.org/software/ddrescue/manual/ddrescue_manual.html" target="_blank">https://www.gnu.org/software/ddrescue/manual/ddrescue_manual.html</a> </li>
<ul>
<li>Great background info. here. </li>
<li>It has some really good examples under the section titled “9 A small tutorial with examples”</li>
</ul>
<li><a href="https://askubuntu.com/a/227788" target="_blank">https://askubuntu.com/a/227788</a> – has the `<b>sudo add-apt-repository universe</b>` command I used above.</li>
</ul>
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: hard drive copy, copy hdd to ssd, copy hard drive, back up hard drive, clone hard drive, clone ssd, clone hdd, copy ssd, copy hdd, copy partition, make disk backup, free copy hard drive, free cloning, free cloning tools, linux copy hard drive, linux clone hard drive, mac clone hard drive, mac copy hard drive, windows clone hard drive, windows copy hard drive, backup hard drive, back up hard drive, back up hdd, back up ssd, acronis backup software replacement, acronis true image replacement, acronis true image free and open source tools alternatives<br />
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Written: 20 Jan. 2018<br />
Last Updated: 20 Jan. 2018<br />
<br />
<a href="http://bit.ly/eRCaGuyToC_mainBlogTabs2" target="_blank">Site Map/Table of Contents</a><br />
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">tldr;</span></b><br />
<br />
Buy one of these <a href="http://amzn.to/2DtMbpt" target="_blank">USB to Gigabit Ethernet adapters for $10</a>, plug it in to your Raspberry Pi 3 and voilá! Your new Pi 3 Ethernet connection is now <b>3x faster</b> than the built-in Ethernet port and <b>12x faster</b> than the built-in WiFi adapter (source: see my test results below)!<br />
<br />
This really matters when you're using your Pi 3 as a network device, server, router, hotspot, NAS, or remote development machine. Pretty much it really matters whenever you want it to work better on your local or wide area network, which includes ssh-ing or otherwise remoting into it.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Details:</span></b><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I bought the above adapter this past week (<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1203M3ATTF9P2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B010SEARPU" target="_blank">here's my Amazon review</a>) and discovered that it worked natively with Linux, including Ubuntu and Raspbian. I was thrilled! No configuration required! Just plug and go. I then decided to test it meticulously in 4 different computers to see how well it can use my new 1 Gbps fiber optic internet connection. I discovered that many factors influence your network and internet speed, including: your computer's ethernet or wifi adapter, your router, your internet service, your USB port (2.0 vs 3.0), and even I believe your hard drive. The hard drive one is interesting to me but I didn't test it thoroughly. It appears however that since Solid State Drives [SSDs] are way faster at random access than Hard Disk Drives [HDDs], which are magnetic spinning drives, they can also run programs faster, and that matters when your browser or system is doing a lot of file reading/writing or caching.<br />
<br />
You can play around and do your own internet speed testing with this device in various machines and configurations with a nice command-line Python tool called <b>speedtest-cli</b>. Note that although the device is rated for 1 Gbps, the fastest speeds I logged were <b>732 Mbps download</b> and <b>551 Mbps upload</b>, and that was on a super fast laptop while plugged into one of its USB 3.0 ports. <b>On the Pi 3</b>, the best I could get with this device was <b>304 Mbps download</b> and <b>279 Mbps upload</b>, but that's still <b>3x</b> faster than the Pi 3's built-in Ethernet port and <b>12x</b> faster than its built-in WiFi adapter.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Details, full test results, and speedtest-cli testing program install instructions are below.</span></b><br />
<br />
Tested with `speedtest-cli` command-line Python tool in Windows and Linux<br />
- This tool connects to speedtest.net without all of the fluff, graphics,<br />
browser, and ads which otherwise get in the way and interfere with the<br />
quality of internet speed tests<br />
To install in Linux Ubuntu:<br />
<b> sudo apt install python-pip</b><br />
<b> sudo pip install speedtest-cli</b><br />
To install in Windows:<br />
Google how to install Python and Pip in Windows, then in the<br />
Command Prompt run:<br />
pip install speedtest-cli<br />
To run the internet speed test from the command line in Windows or Linux:<br />
<b> speedtest-cli</b><br />
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============================================================<br />
Computer Speed Tests:<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
Command: `speedtest-cli`<br />
My Internet connection: I am paying for 1 Gbps AT&T U-verse<br />
symmetric download/upload speeds via a fiber-optic connection.<br />
My Router: TP-LINK Archer C5 AC1200 Dual Band Wireless AC<br />
Gigabit Router, 2.4 GHz 300Mbps + 5 GHz 867 Mbps<br />
Testing conditions: all devices were tested on the same day,<br />
and in the same room as the router. The Pi 3 was the<br />
closest to the router, being about 1 ft away from it.<br />
Each result was obtained through approx. 3~10 test runs.<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
Speed Test Results format:<br />
(Mbps reported connection speed) / Mbps DOWNLOAD / Mbps UPLOAD<br />
============================================================<br />
<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
1) Macbook white from 2008 running Linux Ubuntu 14.04<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
- Built-in Wifi<br />
- 2.4 GHz: (130 Mbps) / 23~46 Mbps / 19~33 Mbps<br />
- 5 GHz: (243 Mbps) / 133~160 Mbps / 73~86 Mbps<br />
- Ethernet<br />
- Built-in Ethernet adapter:<br />
(1000 Mbps) / 412~816 Mbps (usu. 600~800) / 156~606 Mbps (usu. 300~600)<br />
- Rankie USB to Ethernet 1000 Mbps adapter<br />
- In USB 2.0 port: (1000 Mbps) / 287~305 Mbps / 130~221 Mbps (usu. ~200)<br />
- In USB 3.0 port: NA<br />
<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
2) Dell super fast high-end 8-core 64GB RAM 1 TB SSD 2017<br />
laptop running Linux Ubuntu 14.04<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
- Built-in Wifi<br />
- 2.4 GHz: (300 Mbps) / 59~127 Mbps (usu. ~100) / 42~58 Mbps (usu. ~48)<br />
- 5 GHz: (866 Mbps) / 297~391 Mbps (usu. ~350) / 110~179 Mbps (usu. ~160)<br />
- Ethernet<br />
- Built-in Ethernet adapter:<br />
(1000 Mbps) / 527~845 Mbps (usu. 600~800) / 292~462 Mbps (usu. 300~450)<br />
- Rankie USB to Ethernet 1000 Mbps adapter<br />
- In USB 2.0 port (via external USB 2.0 hub):<br />
(1000 Mbps) / 315~326 Mbps (usu. ~320) / 259~290 Mbps (usu. ~265)<br />
- In USB 3.0 port: (1000 Mbps) / 299~732 Mbps (usu. 600~700) / 177~551 Mbps (usu. 400~500)<br />
<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
3) Toshiba mid-grade laptop from 2015 running Windows 8.1<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
- Built-in Wifi<br />
- 2.4 GHz: (150 Mbps) / 36~42 Mbps / 36~42 Mbps<br />
- 5 GHz: NA<br />
- Ethernet<br />
- Built-in Ethernet adapter:<br />
(100 Mbps) / 92~93 Mbps / 94 Mbps<br />
- Rankie USB to Ethernet 1000 Mbps adapter<br />
- In USB 2.0 port: (1000 Mbps) / 183~246 Mbps (usu. ~200) / 175~228 Mbps (usu. ~200)<br />
- In USB 3.0 port: (1000 Mbps) / 157~309 Mbps (usu. ~200) / 252~328 Mbps (usu. ~275)<br />
<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
4) Raspberry Pi 3 mini computer running Raspbian 8.0 Jessie<br />
------------------------------------------------------------<br />
- Built-in Wifi<br />
- 2.4 GHz: (estimated 54 Mbps) / 21~25 Mbps / 23~28 Mbps<br />
- 5 GHz: NA<br />
- Ethernet<br />
- Built-in Ethernet adapter:<br />
(100 Mbps) / 91~93 Mbps / 89~94 Mbps<br />
- Rankie USB to Ethernet 1000 Mbps adapter<br />
- In USB 2.0 port: (1000 Mbps) / 243~304 Mbps (usu. ~300) / 159~279 Mbps (usu. ~200)<br />
- In USB 3.0 port: NA<br />
<br />
Note: Pi 3 WiFi connection speed is estimated from output of `iwlist wlan0 scanning` and `iwconfig`. Ethernet connection speed is read from output of `ethtool eth0 | less`, or `ethtool eth1 | less`, etc (see `ifconfig` for network interface device list).<br />
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: Raspberry Pi speed boost; Raspberry Pi 3 internet speed, speed up Raspberry Pi network speed, 3x speed boost on Raspberry Pi network speeds, Raspberry Pi 3 USB ethernet adapter, Raspberry Pi 3 NAS speed boost, Raspberry Pi 3 faster ssh/faster remote logins/faster home server<br />
<br />
Test Time: 3 hrs.<br />
Draft Time: 30 min., since I copy-pasted all test results from the file where I originally logged them<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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Last Updated: 30 Dec. 2016<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnz9K32ZQrVYwFpTk7sNt1W8VwOTrE4AJ0taFtNs_AmV0Sja7NHUXtuJxDYQz6FowMEQOyvKnRZOmE-M7QAGW2TbeASE-cDtMSPo0SyEKu_hD_S-gi3802iAxsYGEL31eTgh4_zkWWQ0oq/s1600/IMG_4667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnz9K32ZQrVYwFpTk7sNt1W8VwOTrE4AJ0taFtNs_AmV0Sja7NHUXtuJxDYQz6FowMEQOyvKnRZOmE-M7QAGW2TbeASE-cDtMSPo0SyEKu_hD_S-gi3802iAxsYGEL31eTgh4_zkWWQ0oq/s320/IMG_4667.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
The <b>WowGo Electric Skateboard</b> is one of the greatest products I've ever had the privilege of owning. It's a thrill to ride, so much fun, and practical too! I've owned it now for 2 months and have probably already put close to 150 or 200 miles on it. When riding downhill at 22+mph, carving back and forth, I actually get the same sensation I feel when snowboarding--except in this case I can do it right outside my house in my local neighborhood, and all-year-round!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AXzoho10NC8pqKdoRN4JGbU4mxDaWwO83FoBDbs9FA83kBOTwBuumWpPBNILY2lr9eL92tXwixWRqbsLTFLPODDHEXMidiYYphSFN6t6ZIvB_cBCXcyj1lGOmqjX1L1zGsB6yzafiy6q/s1600/20171219_201723_edited.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="593" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AXzoho10NC8pqKdoRN4JGbU4mxDaWwO83FoBDbs9FA83kBOTwBuumWpPBNILY2lr9eL92tXwixWRqbsLTFLPODDHEXMidiYYphSFN6t6ZIvB_cBCXcyj1lGOmqjX1L1zGsB6yzafiy6q/s320/20171219_201723_edited.jpg" width="310" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>I recently moved to a big city</b> and I have been using my WowGo electric skateboard for the last month to ride to and from the subway station to get to work each day. I also use it for city commuting down-town. The ride to the subway station is <b>just over 3 miles</b> but I can complete it in <b>9~15 minutes</b>, depending on traffic lights.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
<b>Because of how great this board is</b>, and how much potential it has, I've decided to start selling them on Amazon Prime, right here at this link actually--get it now--not many in stock at the moment!<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">Me selling the WowGo 2 electric skateboard on Amazon Prime gives you the advantage of:</span></b><br />
<ol>
<li><span style="color: blue;">Trusted and well-known customer service directly from Amazon</span></li>
<li><span style="color: blue;">Additional, expert product support and advice from me</span></li>
<li><span style="color: blue;">Super-fast 2-day shipping (eventually, once I get enough in stock to actually be distributed at many of Amazon's different warehouses all across the nation)</span></li>
</ol>
<b>This is great for the WowGo company </b>run by Jason and Aiden in mainland China<b> </b>because it means they sell more boards by reaching a market which wants the Amazon benefits listed above (especially the 2-day shipping part), *and* they get additional expert help and support to their customers.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><b>What else is coming?</b> I have tons of killer plans for this board!</span> I'm not just "another man in the middle." Rather, I'm an innovator and an embedded programmer. As I get established in my new home and get my workshop set back up I intend to slowly-but-surely work on new and innovative, expert and custom embedded features to add to the board such as:<br />
<ol>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">Bluetooth</span></li>
<ol>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">Bluetooth to phone interface</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">Bluetooth to PC interface</span></li>
</ol>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">data logging</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">speedometer</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">odometer (measures distance), with multiple resettable trip meters, like in a car</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">power, current, and voltage meter</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">Coulomb counter (allows really accurate battery indicator and State of Charge [SoC] readings, including the potential to write battery health and wear-and-tear determination algorithms)</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #38761d;">2nd battery support--would allow you to plug in an addition battery you can strap on the top center of the board to double the range</span></li>
</ol>
<div>
<span style="color: #38761d;">I've already spent hours testing and messing with the board, and look forward to implementing the above features. I'm sure they'll be very hacky at first, but eventually I'd like to refine them and sell customization kits and PCBs and/or work with the manufacturer directly to implement these features. </span>The best part is I plan on doing the embedded work, programming, and PCB board design myself. Not only is this a super fun thing for me to do, but it's super useful, and a valuable learning experience too!</div>
<br />
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<b>And what's more?</b> With dual in-hub motors and a 36V 4.4Ah 10S2P Li-Ion battery, <b>the board is more-than-powerful enough to pull my kids around in a wagon!</b> That makes for great father-daughters bonding time. The other weekend I took them on a ~5 mile ride around to different parks to play, including pulling them on some off-road dirt trails and up some pretty long and fairly steep hills. Our total vertical climb was 274 ft. This is not a cheapo board--not just a kids' toy--this is the real deal, a truly functional, powerful yet economical board with room for growth and the ability to act as a regular commuter board to and from work on a daily basis. Not only that, but all spare parts can be purchased separately and economically and replaced by the user to keep it running for years to come. What a board!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVuD0EZ1jlz9Z76gx7h4T6mu4a6oLCVaGftDp5doDzjtI1Kg31oBrd-RfNHQL4zh1Hmwb6yS-wz2tigs1HRfzpuzC3BiL2Glw9wAFCwVK2yK8K0HUdohEGa8jub6OuO4rRxKaAUsJ8WfF/s1600/2017-12-09+09.57.53+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1337" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVuD0EZ1jlz9Z76gx7h4T6mu4a6oLCVaGftDp5doDzjtI1Kg31oBrd-RfNHQL4zh1Hmwb6yS-wz2tigs1HRfzpuzC3BiL2Glw9wAFCwVK2yK8K0HUdohEGa8jub6OuO4rRxKaAUsJ8WfF/s320/2017-12-09+09.57.53+cropped.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>UPCOMING ARTICLE: </b><br />
<b><a href="http://amzn.to/2EjXw93" target="_blank">WowGo 2</a> Electric Skateboard Commuter Special <u>Specs & Instructions</u></b><br />
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: electric skateboard, esk8board, wowgo electric skateboard, meepo skateboard, meepo electric skateboard, wowgo 2 electric skateboard, wowgo 2 commuter special, wowgo2 commuter special, wowgo2 electric skateboard<br />
<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-30408412987206292852017-10-23T12:16:00.000-07:002017-10-23T19:43:30.709-07:00Which Programming Language Should I Learn?Investing time into learning a first (or new) programming language is a seriously-time-consuming endeavor. For me it wasn't something to take lightly, as I knew I'd be investing thousands of hours into any given single language when I began. When people ask which programming languages they should learn or use, a great way to make recommendations is to consider these 3 things:<br />
<ol>
<li>Popularity</li>
<li>Is it a scripted (interpreted) or compiled language, and how does that affect what I want to do with it?</li>
<li>Which languages are most used in my industry or application?</li>
</ol>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1) Consider the popularity of languages.</span></b> The more popular the language, the higher the priority it should be, within reason, since that's what industry uses and that's where you're going to find the most resources, help and support, compatibility with others, and jobs. The TIOBE index is the place to check:<br />
<i>"TIOBE programming community index is a measure of popularity of programming languages, created and maintained by the TIOBE Company based in Eindhoven, the Netherlands.[1] TIOBE stands for 'The Importance of Being Earnest' which is taken from the name of a comedy play written by Oscar Wilde at the end of the nineteenth century.[2]" </i>(<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIOBE_index" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIOBE_index</a>).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<br />
Here's the index for 2017: <a href="https://www.tiobe.com/tiobe-index/" target="_blank">https://www.tiobe.com/tiobe-index/</a>. As shown above, the top 6, in this order, are:<br />
<ol>
<li>Java</li>
<li>C</li>
<li>C++</li>
<li>C#</li>
<li>Python, and </li>
<li>JavaScript. </li>
</ol>
<b>My top 3 recommendations are Java, C++, and Python, but not necessarily in that order. </b>When it comes to you and your personal needs, goals, and desires, however, you need to choose for yourself! Here's some tips to help you make that decision.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b>Java</b> and <b>C++</b> are high on my list because they are both compiled programming languages instead of scripted, or "interpreted" programming languages. This means they generally <b>run 10~400x faster than scripted languages</b>, can be used for low-level programming like writing operating systems, and can be used for very large applications like games and large office programs, since they run efficiently. <b>Python</b> is a scripted (or "interpreted") language, and so is generally <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/a/801671/4561887" target="_blank">10~400x slower than a program written in C++</a> for instance. It's pros are that it is super popular today and is a great prototyping language since it is so high-level it can be used to quickly write small programs you want to get done in a short period of time. Python is generally a poor choice, however, for <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embedded_system" target="_blank">embedded systems</a>. For many embedded systems, including nearly all microcontrollers such as Arduino/AVR, PIC, ST, etc, however, Python isn't even a choice at all, with <a href="https://micropython.org/" target="_blank">very few exceptions such as MicroPython</a>.<br />
<br />
Other positives of <b>Java</b>, <b>C++</b>, and <b>Python</b> that make me recommend these three above all others are they can all be run on any operating system, including Windows, Mac, and Linux, and all three can be written entirely using <a href="https://www.gnu.org/philosophy/selling.en.html" target="_blank">free</a> and open source (note that "free" here <a href="https://www.gnu.org/philosophy/open-source-misses-the-point.en.html" target="_blank">does *not* mean "no-cost"</a>), and no-cost tools. This includes <a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/" target="_blank">compilers</a>, interpreters (as applicable--ex: for Python), and IDEs (Integrated Development Environments).<br />
<br />
The reason I recommend C++ over C is because C is a subset of C++ and if you properly learn C++ you are also learning C. C++ is also a higher-level language and includes things such as the STL (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_Template_Library" target="_blank">Standard Template Library</a>), which conveniently <a href="http://www.cplusplus.com/reference/stl/" target="_blank">houses a lot of very useful, fundamental data structures and algorithms</a> used today. Also, most games today are written in C++. Keep in mind, however, that the inventor of Linux, Linus Torvalds, <a href="http://harmful.cat-v.org/software/c++/linus" target="_blank">loves C and hates C++</a>. That's ok, however, as we don't have to believe everything smart people say. In the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_of_Currents" target="_blank">"War of Currents"</a>, for example, Thomas Edison was stubbornly opposed to Tesla, treated him lousy, and hated AC current, and Tesla personally thought Einstein's theory of relativity was "a mass of error and deceptive ideas and opposed to common sense," and that "not a single one of the relativity propositions [had] been proven" (<a href="http://teslacollection.com/tesla_articles/1930///bonus_volume_new_york_sun_tesla_clipping_file_1930_1945" target="_blank">The New York Sun, July 10, 1935</a>, and as <a href="https://www.quora.com/What-was-Teslas-opinion-on-Einsteins-theory-of-relativity-and-quantum-mechanics/answer/Alex-Sergeev-3?srid=CWXc" target="_blank">cited on Quora</a>). So again, we don't have to listen to the naysayers.<br />
<br />
The reason I recommend C++ over C# (pronounced "C sharp") is because C# is a Microsoft-developed programming language originally intended for Windows only (which I don't like since I use Linux a lot too), and it is *not* completely free and open source, which I also don't like (Google "<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=is+C%23+open+source%3F&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&oq=is+C%23+open+source%3F&aqs=chrome..69i57.3606j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" target="_blank">is C# open source?</a>").<br />
<br />
I also love writing code for <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microcontroller" target="_blank">microcontrollers</a>, which means that the (almost exclusive) options are C, C++, and Assembly language, though some people have written compiled C or C++ interpreters which run on microcontrollers for running <a href="http://www.eluaproject.net/" target="_blank">Lua</a>, <a href="https://www.espruino.com/" target="_blank">JavaScript</a>, <a href="https://micropython.org/" target="_blank">MicroPython</a>, or other scripted languages.<br />
<br />
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Keep in mind also that when you write Arduino code you are simply writing in C and C++, with additional "Arduino" functions and libraries written in...guess what?--C and C++. To prove this for yourself you can start by reading the Arduino reference pages: <i>"The Arduino language is based on C/C++. It links against <a href="http://www.nongnu.org/avr-libc/user-manual/modules.html" target="_blank">AVR Libc</a> and allows the use of any of its functions; see its <a href="http://www.nongnu.org/avr-libc/user-manual/index.html" target="_blank">user manual</a> for details"</i> (<a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/HomePage" target="_blank">https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/HomePage</a>). You can then read and study about AVR Libc to see that it is Atmel's implementation of the "C" programming language for their AVR-core microcontrollers, and you can read and study the Arduino C and C++ .h, .c, and .cpp ("<b>C</b> <b>P</b>lus <b>P</b>lus") <a href="https://github.com/arduino/Arduino/tree/master/hardware/arduino/avr/cores/arduino" target="_blank">source files here</a> (which I've spent many hours doing), and finally, for kicks you can go to the <b>Arduino IDE --> File --> Preferences --> and check the box for "Show verbose output during" compilation</b>, so that when you compile code you can see all of the "avr-g++" (C++ compiler) and "avr-gcc" (C compiler) statements being called to compile your <u>C and C++ code</u> for the Arduino.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2) Scripted/interpreted vs. compiled programming languages (& run-time speed vs development speed):</span></b> The two main types of programming languages are "compiled" and "scripted" (AKA "interpreted"). In both cases you usually write text-based source code, but for "scripted" languages your source code can be called a "script." Therefore, a script is a type of source code, but source code is not necessarily a script (just like a square is a special type of rectangle, but a rectangle is not necessarily a square). <b>Java and C++ are compiled languages</b>, whereas <b>Python is a scripted or interpreted language</b>.<br />
<br />
Compiled languages require a very special type of program called a "compiler" to convert plain text source code into machine code (or "<a href="http://whatis.techtarget.com/definition/bytecode" target="_blank">bytecode</a>" in the case of Java). Compiling generally happens *one single time.* This means that once you compile your source code you just need to run the executable file. Since it's already in machine language that your computer understands, it can run lightning-fast.<br />
<br />
Interpreted languages require a very special type of program called an "interpreter," which has to read and interpret your source code, line by line, on the fly, (usually) each and every time the interpreter gets to a line of code. Interpreters themselves are compiled programs and are frequently written in C or C++. Since interpreters interpret source code (scripts in this case) on-the-fly, interpreted languages run really slow--usually 10~400x slower than compiled languages, at best. Scripted languages are usually (but not always) more portable, however, since they don't require re-compiling for each new operating system, so a single Python script, for example, can often be run successfully on multiple operating systems without needing to be changed, unless of course it is accessing operating-system-specific function calls.<br />
<br />
When selecting a language to learn, consider the trade-off between <b>run time</b> vs <b>development time</b>. Java and C++, for example, as compiled languages run very fast, but are usually slower to develop new applications. Python runs comparatively very slow, but as a generally-recognized higher-level language than C or C++ (since it abstracts away things like variable types, memory management, and pointers, and has a slew of high-level functionality built-in) it can be used to develop applications more quickly. For this reason, small applications with low processing power requirements may frequently be written using scripted languages, like Python, but large applications, where speed is important, will likely be written using compiled languages, like C, C++, or Java, which are more time-consuming to use to write software, but which create software which runs much faster in the end.<br />
<br />
Do you need low-level access to hardware? If you need to access I/O (Input/Output) hardware lines directly, or if you need to write code running on a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Real-time_operating_system" target="_blank">real-time operating system</a> (RTOS) you may find yourself further constrained. C, C++, and Java are all good for writing operating systems (ex: C for Linux; Java, C, and C++ for Android; and C and C++ for microcontrollers), and C or C++ (with self-enforced coding style and library limitations if using C++) are good for embedded systems and RTOSs.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3) What does your particular field, application, or industry use?</span></b> Use the languages most commonly used with your field or application. Ex: <u>Embedded systems developers</u> (like me) frequently use <b>C</b> and <b>C++</b>, software developers (writing software intended for a PC as opposed to software or <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firmware" target="_blank">firmware</a> for an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embedded_system" target="_blank">embedded system</a>) frequently favor <b>Java</b>, and <b>Python</b> is frequently used for small desktop apps, quick prototyping, data analysis and plotting, and basic (but relatively slow) Raspberry Pi apps or programs.<br />
<br />
<u>Engineers</u> love <b>MATLAB</b> (another super slow, scripted programming language, like Python, but unlike Python it is *very expensive* in $$ and *not* free and open source), <u>data scientists and statisticians</u> may favor <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R_(programming_language)" target="_blank">R</a> </b>(another interpreted programming language, but that *is* free and open source!), and <u>web developers</u> frequently use scripted (interpreted) languages such as <b>JavaScript</b>, <b>CSS/HTML</b>, <b>Python</b>, and <b>PHP</b>, or compiled languages such as <b>Java</b>, <b>C++</b>, <b>C</b>, or <a href="https://golang.org/doc/" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">Go</a>, or languages which can kinda-sorta be either, such as <b><a href="https://stackoverflow.com/a/7284287/4561887" target="_blank">Ruby</a></b> (<a href="http://blog.stoneriverelearning.com/top-10-programming-languages-used-in-web-development/" target="_blank">source</a>).<br />
<br />
<u>If you're using Arduino</u>, you really need to wrap your head around the fact that you're not writing scripts (you're writing non-script source code for compilation by the <a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/" target="_blank">GNU GCC free and open source compiler</a>), and you're not using the "Arduino programming language" (since no such thing exists), rather, you're using <b>C and C++ with additional C and C++ Arduino functions and libraries</b> available. And if you think Arduino code is Java, I'm sorry: you're wrong again. The <i>Arduino IDE</i>, however, *is* written in Java (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" target="_blank">"Arduino" Wikipedia article</a>).<br />
<br />
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<br />
<u>If you're using Raspberry Pi</u>, feel free to use any programming language you want, including Java, C++, or Python, as all three of those have full GPIO (General Purpose Input/Output) pin control and access on a Raspberry Pi. See the following Google searches to get started:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&q=raspberry+pi+io+with+java&oq=raspberry+pi+io+with+java&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i22i30k1l6.4871.5169.0.5347.4.4.0.0.0.0.140.279.0j2.2.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..2.2.274....0.XMhoecvGj3E" target="_blank">"Raspberry Pi IO with Java"</a></li>
<ul>
<li>Or <a href="https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&q=Raspberry+Pi+GPIO+with+Java&oq=Raspberry+Pi+GPIO+with+Java&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0j0i22i30k1l9.46727.47864.0.48085.6.6.0.0.0.0.121.613.3j3.6.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.6.603...35i39k1j0i20i263k1.0.qamokO3CHZo" target="_blank">"Raspberry Pi GPIO with Java"</a></li>
</ul>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&q=raspberry+pi+io+with+C%2B%2B&oq=raspberry+pi+io+with+C%2B%2B&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i22i30k1l10.1053.2345.0.2766.4.4.0.0.0.0.135.511.0j4.4.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.4.502...35i39k1.0.v2oPcjr3BUs" target="_blank">"Raspberry Pi IO with C++"</a></li>
<ul>
<li>Or <a href="https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&q=Raspberry+Pi+GPIO+with+C&oq=Raspberry+Pi+GPIO+with+C&gs_l=psy-ab.3..35i39k1j0j0i22i30k1l8.570.581.0.1164.2.2.0.0.0.0.353.499.0j1j0j1.2.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.1.350....0.JFAhtaAxrQw" target="_blank">"Raspberry Pi GPIO with C"</a></li>
</ul>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&q=raspberry+pi+io+with+python&oq=raspberry+pi+io+with+python&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i22i30k1l10.53539.55500.0.55699.11.10.1.0.0.0.172.1202.1j8.9.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.10.1199...35i39k1.0.Bv_pkGJO8Es" target="_blank">"Raspberry Pi IO with Python"</a></li>
<ul>
<li>Or <a href="https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&q=Raspberry+Pi+GPIO+with+Python&oq=Raspberry+Pi+GPIO+with+Python&gs_l=psy-ab.3..35i39k1j0i22i30k1l9.22498.23345.0.23563.7.6.0.0.0.0.142.597.1j4.5.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..2.5.585...0j0i20i263k1.0.MOEIBQqAp8Q" target="_blank">"Raspberry Pi GPIO with Python"</a></li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Additional reading:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interpreted_language" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interpreted_language</a></li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scripting_language" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scripting_language</a></li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compiled_language" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compiled_language</a></li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 23 Oct. 2017<br />
Last Updated: 23 Oct. 2017<br />
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: computer programming, best programming languages, most recommended programming language, which programming language should I learn?, which programming language should I use?, which programming language should I study next?, which programming language to study next? should I learn Java, C, or C++?, scripted vs compiled programming languages, interpreted vs compiled programming languages, Arduino is not a language, Arduino is not Java, Arduino is C and C++, Arduino is C/C++<br />
<br />
Draft Time: 4+ hrs.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-5779055898678492372017-10-01T07:00:00.000-07:002017-10-01T07:00:02.105-07:00Arduino sine wave siren code using a lookup table in flash memory (PROGMEM)By Gabriel Staples<br />
Posted: 30 Sept. 2017<br />
Last Updated: 30 Sept. 2017<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/01/arduino-playing-siren-sound.html" target="_blank">One of my current projects: Arduino police siren w/simple, custom transistor amplifier/speaker driver circuit</a></li>
</ul>
<u><b>Other Articles:</b></u><br />
(*Articles containing or linking to source code are marked with an asterisk)<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/08/how-to-make-live-usb-with-2nd-windows.html" target="_blank">How to make a Linux Live USB with a 2nd, Windows-readable partition for storage</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/04/computa-pranksta-user-manual.html" target="_blank">Computa Pranksta USB Mouse & Keyboard Device User Manual</a></li>
<li>*<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/03/arduino-atmega328-timer-PWM-output.html" target="_blank">Arduino (ATmega328) Direct Register Manipulation for Custom PWM Output (ex: 1us HIGH followed by 99us LOW --> 1% Duty Cycle at 10kHz)</a></li>
<li>*<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/11/MAX5481-DigitalPotentiometer.html" target="_blank">MAX5481 10-bit Digital Potentiometer Arduino Code</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/11/eagle-pcb-copy-part-to-another-file.html" target="_blank">Eagle PCB CAD - How to copy a part from one schematic to another</a></li>
<li>*<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/07/arduino-like-millisecond-and-microsecond-timestamps-in-python.html" target="_blank">Arduino-like millisecond (ms) and microsecond (us)-resolution timestamps in Python: millis(), micros(), delay(), & delayMicroseconds()</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">BattleBots Season 2 "Buzz" Fire Drone for Team Caustic Creations, with Team Interviews & fire-shooting Videos</a></li>
<li>*<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html" target="_blank">Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li>*<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/using-arduino-unos-built-in-16-bit-adc.html" target="_blank">Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 16+-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)--an Article on Oversampling</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
</ul>
<b>Demo Video: </b><br />
<br />
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<b>Source Code:</b><br />
<br />
<br />
<pre class="brush:cpp" title="<b>lookup_table_sine_wave_arduino_siren.ino</b> <br /><i>(to copy entire code block, double-click anywhere on it & use ctrl + c)</i>">/*
lookup_table_sine_wave_arduino_siren.ino
- play a frequency-varying sine wave in a piezo buzzer
- Published: http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/10/arduino-sine-wave-siren-code.html
By Gabriel Staples
www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com
Written: 5 Nov. 2015
Last Updated: 30 Sept. 2017
Update History (newest on TOP):
- 30 Sept. 2017: cleaned up code so I can share it on my website
- 20 Jan 2016: modified code to use ToneAC to dual drive a 120W peak/60W
RMS speaker through a high-power H-bridge I made
- 5 Nov. 2015: first version, uses built-in Arduino tone() function:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/Tone
References:
-http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Sine-Generator-Calculator.phtml
-https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/Tone
-https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siren_(alarm)
Libraries needed:
-ToneAC: http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/ToneAC
*/
//Includes
#include <avr/pgmspace.h> //http://www.nongnu.org/avr-libc/user-manual/group__avr__pgmspace.html
#include <toneAC.h> //plays on pins 9 & 10 for ATmega328
//Global vars & consts
byte sirenVolume = 1; //for ToneAC; from 0-10
const unsigned int SIREN_SLOW = 25000; //us; desired delta time between siren freq updates
const unsigned int SIREN_FAST = 5000; //us
unsigned int sirenPeriod = SIREN_SLOW; //us
//sine wave lookup table to produce the siren sound
static const unsigned int sineLookupTable[] PROGMEM =
{
//Sine wave lookup table generator:
// - http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Sine-Generator-Calculator.phtml
//Number of points: 256
//Max Amplitude: 255
//Numbers per row: 8
//Decimal
128,131,134,137,140,143,146,149,
152,155,158,162,165,167,170,173,
176,179,182,185,188,190,193,196,
198,201,203,206,208,211,213,215,
218,220,222,224,226,228,230,232,
234,235,237,238,240,241,243,244,
245,246,248,249,250,250,251,252,
253,253,254,254,254,255,255,255,
255,255,255,255,254,254,254,253,
253,252,251,250,250,249,248,246,
245,244,243,241,240,238,237,235,
234,232,230,228,226,224,222,220,
218,215,213,211,208,206,203,201,
198,196,193,190,188,185,182,179,
176,173,170,167,165,162,158,155,
152,149,146,143,140,137,134,131,
128,124,121,118,115,112,109,106,
103,100,97,93,90,88,85,82,
79,76,73,70,67,65,62,59,
57,54,52,49,47,44,42,40,
37,35,33,31,29,27,25,23,
21,20,18,17,15,14,12,11,
10,9,7,6,5,5,4,3,
2,2,1,1,1,0,0,0,
0,0,0,0,1,1,1,2,
2,3,4,5,5,6,7,9,
10,11,12,14,15,17,18,20,
21,23,25,27,29,31,33,35,
37,40,42,44,47,49,52,54,
57,59,62,65,67,70,73,76,
79,82,85,88,90,93,97,100,
103,106,109,112,115,118,121,124,
};
//calculate the length of the lookup table above
const unsigned int NUM_SINEWAVE_ELEMENTS = sizeof(sineLookupTable)/sizeof(unsigned int);
//Function declarations/prototypes
void playSirenSound(byte volume = 1, unsigned int period_us = SIREN_SLOW);
//Function definitions:
//-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
//setup
//-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(115200);
Serial.println(F("begin"));
//FOR DEBUGGING
Serial.print(F("NUM_SINEWAVE_ELEMENTS = ")); Serial.println(NUM_SINEWAVE_ELEMENTS);
}
//-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
//loop
//-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
void loop()
{
playSirenSound();
//OR
// playSirenSound(sirenVolume, sirenPeriod);
}
//-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
//playSirenSound
//-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
void playSirenSound(byte volume, unsigned int period_us)
{
//local vars
static unsigned long t_start = micros(); //us
unsigned long t_now = micros(); //us
if (t_now - t_start >= period_us)
{
t_start = t_now; //us; update
static unsigned int sirenIndex = 0;
//look up value in lookup table
// - NB: pgm_read_word is for reading 2 byte values,
// pgm_read_byte is for reading 1 byte values
unsigned int freq = pgm_read_word(sineLookupTable + sirenIndex);
sirenIndex++;
if (sirenIndex >= NUM_SINEWAVE_ELEMENTS)
sirenIndex = 0; //start back at beginning of sine wave
toneAC(freq+635, volume);
}
}
</pre>
<br />
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: Arduino nano, H-bridge, audio, speaker, siren, siren sound, police siren, lookup table, sine wave lookup table, AVR PROGMEM, AVR-LibC, toneAC<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-72172083028430966712017-08-26T17:29:00.000-07:002017-08-26T20:58:17.598-07:00How to make a Linux Live USB with a 2nd, Windows-readable partition for storage<div>
This article is a "<b>Notes to Self</b>" article. That means I wrote it for my own personal reference and use, with myself as the target audience during drafting, but decided to post it here because I believe it is useful to others too, and I want to reach as many people as possible, not just me. </div>
<div>
<br />
<i>Ever wanted to have a bootable Linux USB flash drive with a separate, Windows-readable partition for general file storage? Here's how.</i><br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
By Gabriel Staples
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Written: 26-27 May 2016
</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Posted online: 26 Aug 2017<br />
Updated: 26 Aug 2017</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>The
Gist of it/The super short version:</b></span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b>-for the experienced
Linux user</b></div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Use gparted on a
<b>Linux</b> computer to make 2 FAT32 partitions on the thumb drive.
The <b>partition <i>created</i> first</b> must be for storage, while the 2<sup>nd</sup>
one must be for the Linux distro you are putting on the Live USB.</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Use UNetbootin
on a <b>Linux</b> computer to install your iso file for the Live USB
onto the <b>2</b><sup><b>nd</b></sup>
partition you just made above.</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Done.
You can now boot from the USB thumb drive, from its 2<sup>nd</sup>
partition, while its 1<sup>st</sup>
partition <b>only</b> is
readable and usable by Windows still (as well as by Linux or Mac too
of course).
</div>
</li>
</ol>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
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</div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b></b></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Detailed
</b><b>Steps</b>:</span></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b>-for the
less-experienced Linux user, and/or any general person who knows how
to use Google to answer questions and fill in any blanks</b></div>
<ol>
<li value="1">
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Insert
a USB thumb drive into an Ubuntu-based Linux Computer, or a computer
running an Ubuntu-based Operating System from a (single-partitioned,
for example) Live USB.</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Don't have a
Linux computer yet?—use UNetbootin
(<a class="western" href="https://unetbootin.github.io/">https://unetbootin.github.io/</a>)
on Windows to create a Live USB onto a <b>single</b>-partitioned
thumb drive, and use that thumb drive as a Live Linux
disk.</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Boot up onto this Live USB and install gparted with:</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
sudo apt-get update</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
sudo apt-get install gparted
</div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Alternatively,
download the Parted Magic iso file (costs ~$9 last I checked, here:
<a class="western" href="https://partedmagic.com/">https://partedmagic.com/</a>--it's
worth it—has many useful
features), and install it
onto a Live USB, using UNetbootin. Parted Magic comes with gparted
already installed.</div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Use Gparted to
create a new partition table</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
First, delete
all partitions, then, create a new MBR/msdos partition table:</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Device -->
Create Partition Table --> "msdos" [to create an MBR
partition table for best compatibility]</div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Create 2 new
partitions on the drive. I'm installing Kubuntu 16.04LTS
(<a class="western" href="http://www.kubuntu.org/">http://www.kubuntu.org/</a>),
so I'll make the <b>first</b>
partition
FAT32 and call it "StorageKubu,"
for example.
Leave ~4096 MB (4GB)
for the 2<sup>nd</sup>
partition. Make the 2<sup>nd</sup>
partition
FAT32 as well and
call it "Kubuntu64"
(signifies Kubuntu 64-bit
in my case)
or give
it whatever name
you like to correspond to the Linux
distro you want to put on it.
</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
IMPORTANT
NOTE 1:
your “storage” partition <b>must</b>
be the <b>first</b>
partition or else Windows won't be able to see it when you want to
use it as a normal thumb drive, since Windows can only see the
<b>first</b>
Windows-compatible partition on a USB thumb drive.
</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
IMPORTANT
NOTE 2: ALSO NOTE THAT “FIRST” HERE CORRESPONDS TO THE ORDER IN
<b>TIME</b> THAT YOU
CREATE THE PARTITIONS, <b>NOT</b>
THE SPATIAL ORDER OR PHYSICAL LOCATION ON THE DISK. In short, the
“first” partition is the first partition<i>
in time</i> you make on
the disk, regardless of its physical location on the disk. The
“second” partition is the second partition <i>in
time</i> you make on the
disk, regardless of its physical location on the disk, etc.</div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Use
the UNetbootin application
in Linux to create a startup disk on the 2<sup>nd</sup>
partition, which you
named
"Kubuntu64,"
for example (as created
above),
from a downloaded iso file of
the
Linux distro you'd like to
install. (Ex:
download
the Kubuntu
iso file here:
<a class="western" href="http://www.kubuntu.org/">http://www.kubuntu.org/</a>.
Other Ubuntu-based Linux distros, for example, are described and
linked to here: <a class="western" href="http://www.ubuntu.com/download/ubuntu-flavours">http://www.ubuntu.com/download/ubuntu-flavours</a>.)</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Note
that if you don't have
UNetbootin on your Linux
system, you can install it
into any Ubuntu or Ubuntu-based Linux distro with the following
commands:</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
sudo apt-get update</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
sudo apt-get install unetbootin</div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Now,
in UNetbootin, choose the
iso file to be installed on the thumb drive, selecting
the “Diskimage” option at the bottom, and clicking the three
dots (“...”) button to set the path to the iso file you
just downloaded above.</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Set
the “Space used to
preserve files across reboots” (persistence
file) value
to ~2GB or so. Here, I
typed in “2048” MB.</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
For
the “Drive” option, use the drop-down menu to select the <b>2</b><sup><b>nd</b></sup>
partition you just created above (the one I named “Kubuntu64”).</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
We
are doing this with UNetbootin in <b>Linux</b>
because in Windows UNetbootin cannot even see this 2<sup>nd</sup>
partition, due to Windows limitations.</div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Click
“OK” to begin. It should take about 10~20 minutes or so, and
will have to copy over ~1.5GB of files from
the iso image, plus it
will install a bootloader and create a persistence file (which I
set to 2048 MB above) on
the 2<sup>nd</sup>
partition to store
settings and things between reboots of the Live USB.</div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Done!
You now have a dual-partitioned Live USB thumb drive, with the 1st
partition being a “storage” partition, and the 2<sup>nd</sup>
one being for the Live USB Linux operating system files. Windows
will only be able to see the 1<sup>st</sup>
partition, so if you're ever using the Live USB as a normal
computer-on-the-go, be sure to store all your files you may want to
read with Windows later in the <b>first partition</b>
only.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<center>
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<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Notes,
</b><b>including misc. problems & solutions</b>:</span></div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
First off, it is
worth noting that not all USB thumb drives will work for booting,
not all USB ports and or hubs on your computer will work for
booting, and not all live USB creator programs will work either.
</div>
</li>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
So, if these
steps don't work, try the following:</div>
</li>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Use a
different USB port on your computer.
</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
If you are
using a USB hub, remove it; or conversely, if you are <b>not</b>
using a USB hub, try
adding one.
</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Change the USB thumb drive you are using; some work well as Live
USBs, some do not.
</div>
</li>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">For
example, these did </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">NOT</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">
work </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">for me as Live
USBs, though otherwise they seemed to work fine:
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/mosDART-Flash-Drive-Black-White/dp/B01DI1XO4G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=5aa67f80a046bda06addd6e26645a19e" target="_blank">mosDART 8GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive</a>,
$15.55 for 5 </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">x 8GB
drives</span></div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">M</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">y
computer has 3 USB 2.0 ports, and no 3.0 ports. </span>
</div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">When
plugged into the far left port during boot, these drives didn't
work as live USB boot drives at all. I could see the Kubuntu
logo loading, but then it would back out after a minute and
just give an error. I never got into the live Kubuntu operating
system.</span></div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">In
the back left and back right ports, it would load into Kubuntu,
but then it would lock up and be c<span style="background-color: white;">ompletely unusable. I could
move the mouse cursor around, but I couldn't ever click on
anything.</span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: white; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">T</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">hese
</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">USB thumb drives
</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">worked great for me,
</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">however,</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">
as Live USBs! </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">I
recommend them:
</span><a href="http://amzn.to/2wzbuD4" target="_blank">Kingston Digital DataTraveler</a><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">,
$4.99 </span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">each for a
16GB drive.</span></span></div>
</li>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<div>
</div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: white;">Live USB creator
programs I tested were Startup Disk Creator (usb-creator-gtk)
in Linux</span>, and UNetbootin in both Linux and Windows. Of those three,
they all worked to one degree or another, but UNetbootin in Linux
worked the best. Problems I
had included:</div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Linux Startup
Disk Creator problem: “not a COM32R image” error while booting
from the live USB (see
<a class="western" href="http://askubuntu.com/questions/486602/ubuntu-14-04-lts-live-usb-boot-error-gfxboot-c32not-a-valid-com32r-image">http://askubuntu.com/questions/486602/ubuntu-14-04-lts-live-usb-boot-error-gfxboot-c32not-a-valid-com32r-image</a>)</div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Solution: when
you see this error while booting, press the Tab key, then type
“live” and hit enter; it will now boot into the operating
system loaded on the Live USB
</div>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
UNetbootin
problem, whether done on Linux or Windows: could not run the
Memtest86+ program from the UNetbootin live USB, to check the RAM
for errors.
</div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Solution: on
the boot screen, arrow down to the test memory option, then hit
Tab to change the load parameter string, and remove the
“initrd=/ubninit” part of the command. Now hit enter and
Memtest86+ will run as expected. This is not a permanent fix,
however, and <i>if you have this problem, you will need to do this
solution each time you boot and want to run Memtest86+ from the
Live USB</i> created with UNetbootin. See here for where I got
this fix:
<a class="western" href="http://www.openmutual.org/2014/09/memtest86-cannot-load-a-ramdisk-with-an-old-kernel-image/">http://www.openmutual.org/2014/09/memtest86-cannot-load-a-ramdisk-with-an-old-kernel-image/</a>.
</div>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
UNetbootin
problem on Windows: since Windows can only see the <b>first</b>
Windows-compatible partition on a USB thumb drive, even if there
are multiple Windows-compatible partitions on the drive, you are
limited to ONLY installing your live USB iso file onto the <b>first</b>
partition. What if you want the 1<sup>st</sup> partition to be a
“storage” partition, however, and the 2<sup>nd</sup> one to be
the operating system for the live USB? Can you still use UNetbootin
from Windows instead of Linux? YES, but it requires a work-around:</div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Solution: use
gparted in Linux to make only ONE FAT32 partition, ~4GB in size,
at the <b>far right side (end) </b>of
the disk. Leave the front (left side) of the USB thumb drive
unpartitioned. Now, since
you only have a single partition, Windows can see it. Use
UNetbootin in Linux to install the Live USB iso file to this
single partition. Then, go back into gparted in Linux to add the
1<sup>st</sup>
(left-most) FAT32 storage partition. Now you *must* set the “boot”
flag on the 2<sup>nd</sup>
(Live USB), or right-most, partition, since UNetbootin in Windows
does NOT automatically do this, though UNetbootin if used in Linux
<b>does </b>automatically
set the “boot” flag. Done.</div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
In
short: after making a Live USB with UNetbootin in Windows, it
will NOT work to boot until you:</div>
<ul>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
A) enable the boot flag of the Live USB (right-most) partition,
via gparted.</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
B) format the first (left-most, or “storage”) partition.
</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Otherwise, until you do the above two things, if you try to boot
from this Live USB, you will get the following error: “Missing
operating system” ... “operating system not found.”</div>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Note that persistence <b>does </b>work for me when I use UNetbootin
in either Linux or Windows. This is great! I've had problems with
persistence before, so I'm glad to see it working.</div>
</li>
</ul>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><b>Misc.
References & Links:</b></span></div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span lang="en-US">*****<a class="western" href="http://askubuntu.com/questions/423300/live-usb-on-a-2-partition-usb-drive">http://askubuntu.com/questions/423300/live-usb-on-a-2-partition-usb-drive</a></span></div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span lang="en-US">*****</span><span lang="en-US"><a class="western" href="http://www.howtogeek.com/97177/how-to-put-ubuntu-linux-on-a-usb-thumb-drive-without-the-mess/">http://www.howtogeek.com/97177/how-to-put-ubuntu-linux-on-a-usb-thumb-drive-without-the-mess/</a>
- </span><span lang="en-US">explains using gparted for partitioning
– shows making 2 partitions on bootable USB drive, with the
shareable partition for storage being first; has lots of screenshots
</span>
</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span lang="en-US"><a class="western" href="http://www.rmprepusb.com/tutorials/multipartufd">http://www.rmprepusb.com/tutorials/multipartufd</a>
</span>
</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span lang="en-US"><a class="western" href="http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/hardware/gg487419.aspx">http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/hardware/gg487419.aspx</a>
</span>
</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
GPT or MBR
partition table?</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span lang="en-US">Google
search for "which partition table" -
<a class="western" href="https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=which%20partition%20table">https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=which%20partition%20table</a></span></div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a class="western" href="http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1457901"><span lang="en-US">http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1457901</span></a></div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a class="western" href="http://www.linux.org/threads/partition-tables.4895/"><span lang="en-US">http://www.linux.org/threads/partition-tables.4895/</span></a></div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a class="western" href="http://www.howtogeek.com/193669/whats-the-difference-between-gpt-and-mbr-when-partitioning-a-drive/"><span lang="en-US">http://www.howtogeek.com/193669/whats-the-difference-between-gpt-and-mbr-when-partitioning-a-drive/</span></a></div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Short answer:</div>
<ol>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b>For best
compatibility, choose MBR</b> ("<b>msdos</b>" in
gparted). Limitation: it only goes up to 2TB max partition sizes,
and can only have up to 4 logical partitions max.</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
For newer
systems, and for partition sizes >2TB, choose GPT, which is a
newer standard, and is slowly replacing MBR. Downside: it's not
compatible with older systems.
</div>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
</ol>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span lang="en-US"><a class="western" href="http://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop/create-a-usb-stick-on-ubuntu">http://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop/create-a-usb-stick-on-ubuntu</a>
</span>
</div>
</li>
<li>
<div class="western" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
*****<a class="western" href="http://askubuntu.com/questions/486602/ubuntu-14-04-lts-live-usb-boot-error-gfxboot-c32not-a-valid-com32r-image">http://askubuntu.com/questions/486602/ubuntu-14-04-lts-live-usb-boot-error-gfxboot-c32not-a-valid-com32r-image</a></div>
</li>
</ol>
</div>
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: Linux, Ubuntu, Kubuntu, Linux Live USB, Linux Bootable Thumb Drive, Live Disk, Boot Disk, Bootable USB, Dual partition bootable USB, Windows-readable storage partition on bootable USB<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-49355634152667712692017-04-12T19:40:00.019-07:002020-10-09T00:42:27.992-07:00Computa Pranksta USB Mouse & Keyboard Device User Manual<span style="color: red;"><i><span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;"><u>100% SATISFACTION GUARANTEE</u>:</span><b><span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;"> If you've already purchased a Computa Pranksta from me and need expert support, </span><span style="background-color: #fcff01; font-size: large;">PLEASE CONTACT ME VIA EMAIL FIRST AT THE ADDRESS JUST BELOW</span><span style="background-color: white;"> <span style="font-size: x-large;">[or </span></span><span style="background-color: #fcff01; font-size: x-large;">even better: <a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/issues" target="_blank">open up a public issue on my GitHub support page here</a></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">] so I can help you out</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: medium;">before you consider leaving a negative review. I'll help you, I promise! </span></span></b></i></span><br />
<b style="background-color: white;"><i>Furthermore, the difference between a 3.99 and 4.01 star rating on Amazon is roughly 200% or more in sales! <span style="color: red;">Please consider carefully if you're thinking about leaving less than 4 stars. Again if you have any problems with or questions about the product PLEASE SEEK SUPPORT FROM ME VIA A PUBLIC GITHUB ISSUE ABOVE (PREFERRED) OR EMAIL (ALSO FINE) FIRST.</span></i></b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><i style="background-color: yellow;"><span style="color: red;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9KBAysq5HgT16qPrQnXX7FPx7fvQCBB9ZUgm4RQtk7RPyNoTRbpa990LesXlZWrKTqjLQEE-zA3FyI8Fnq0qIPgwew09kqyXTYSGP8xyFzcmtKGoER9Lf8kwYSXRxinXKkwdP7Nde0BrW/s1600/gabriel%2540ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com+email+address+Font+12+100%2525+zoom.PNG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="24" data-original-width="251" height="38" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9KBAysq5HgT16qPrQnXX7FPx7fvQCBB9ZUgm4RQtk7RPyNoTRbpa990LesXlZWrKTqjLQEE-zA3FyI8Fnq0qIPgwew09kqyXTYSGP8xyFzcmtKGoER9Lf8kwYSXRxinXKkwdP7Nde0BrW/s400/gabriel%2540ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com+email+address+Font+12+100%2525+zoom.PNG" width="400" /></a></span></i></b></div>
<br />
<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="color: red; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Computa Pranksta Mouse Jiggler </span><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYZ2GTB/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=elecrc-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B06ZYZ2GTB&linkId=01e462346a0ba4fee97e5a5e67f73a74" style="font-size: xx-large;" target="_blank">now available on Amazon</a><span style="font-size: x-large;">! </span></b></span><br />
<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Click link above or image below to go to Amazon and purchase.</span></b></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=elecrc-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B06ZYZ2GTB&asins=B06ZYZ2GTB&linkId=cf062eabe4ad3a140cd346c49e7f177b&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Also available now on Ebay! <span style="color: blue;"><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/232694181416" target="_blank">See my listing, as Ebay seller "electricrcaircraftguy", here</a>.</span></b></span><br /><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Computa Pranksta User Manual</span></b><br />
<b>For Device Version:</b> v0.90.0 or later<br />
By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 12 Apr. 2017<br />
Last Updated: 9 Feb. 2019<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Update History (newest on TOP):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20200908 - added GitHub support page and CAD files for 3D-printed case<br /></span><div><span style="font-size: x-small;">-20200214 - copied and pasted my recommended mouse jiggler settings from Amazon</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20190209 - added 2nd YouTube video: Reconfiguring the Computa Pranksta for use as a USB Mouse Jiggler to keep your screensaver off</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20180505 - added "Quick Reference 'Cheat Sheet'" picture</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20180324 - added link to my listing on Ebay too</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20171228 - added list of associated keywords to end</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20170717 - added YouTube video: "How to Use & Configure..."</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20170423 - bug section updated w/some info about Caps Lock Response Mode 10</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20170422 - now available for sale on Amazon! Purchase links added.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20170421 - added images</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20170416 - added bug notes; minor additions</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20170412 - initial version</span><br />
<div><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">[NEW as of Sept. 2020] GitHub page: </span></b></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support</span></a></li><li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support#support--email--submit-an-issue-here-on-github" target="_blank">Support</a> --> scroll down to "Support / Email / Submit an Issue here on GitHub"</span></li><li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/issues?q=is%3Aissue+label%3AFAQ+" target="_blank">FAQ</a></span></li><li><a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support#cad-files-for-a-3d-printed-case" target="_blank">CAD files for a 3D-printed case you can make yourself</a> --> scroll down to "CAD Files for a 3D-printed case"</li></ul><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/blob/master/cad_files/Thomas_Edgar/cad_drawing1.png?raw=true" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="660" data-original-width="407" height="173" src="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/blob/master/cad_files/Thomas_Edgar/cad_drawing1.png?raw=true" width="107" /></a><a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/blob/master/cad_files/Thomas_Edgar/photo3_20200728_181810.jpg?raw=true" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="789" data-original-width="800" height="187" src="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/blob/master/cad_files/Thomas_Edgar/photo3_20200728_181810.jpg?raw=true" width="190" /></a></div></div><div><br />[<a href="https://amzn.to/3bCxMW3">As recommended on Amazon</a>] <br /><b>FOR USE AS A USB MOUSE JIGGLER TO KEEP YOUR SCREENSAVER OFF, set the settings as follows: </b><br /><ul>
<li>Keyboard Typing Mode: 0 (OFF) </li>
<li>Keyboard Timing Mode: anything </li>
<li>Mouse Move Mode: 2 (randomMouseBuzzAround) or 4 (multiCursor 2) </li>
<li>Mouse Timing Mode: 5 (every 30~60 sec) or 6 (every 1~5 min) </li>
<li>Caps Lock Response Mode: 0 (OFF)</li>
</ul>
<ul style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "amazon ember", arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; margin: 0px 0px 0px 18px; padding: 0px;">
</ul>
<div>
<span face="" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_unjqr6GoG68n0CqDuHlKSDelXtglEHCFIfV-_KzWhM1RaPZDeX2G3rNAmTxe1v3h1iDNnTfdu0LjlbE-mHEBOkRUnGUZbLYmrgdAZrogx7zy3qpHOws5_mA4mwKWuKcHSaB2_r4z_rSi/s1600/Computa+Pranksta+Instructions+pic3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1344" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_unjqr6GoG68n0CqDuHlKSDelXtglEHCFIfV-_KzWhM1RaPZDeX2G3rNAmTxe1v3h1iDNnTfdu0LjlbE-mHEBOkRUnGUZbLYmrgdAZrogx7zy3qpHOws5_mA4mwKWuKcHSaB2_r4z_rSi/s320/Computa+Pranksta+Instructions+pic3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Quick Reference "Cheat Sheet"</span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Congratulations on your purchase of the Computa Pranksta USB Mouse and Keyboard device. Don't have one yet? Click the link above to purchase it on Amazon. This device is great for playing tricks on your friends, or just for keeping your computer awake when giving presentations, watching movies, playing certain video games (like Real Flight RC simulator) or when you don't have admin rights to change screensaver and screen lock settings.</div>
<br />
This devices does NOT require any software or special drivers on your PC. It simply tells the computer it is a standard Human Interface Device mouse and keyboard. If your computer tries to detect a new device and install a driver, don't worry about it--even if it says it "fails." The device will work anyway.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Video 1/2: </b><b>How to Use & Configure the Computa Pranksta USB Keyboard & Mouse Prank Device</b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/LjEPAu1H8Z0/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LjEPAu1H8Z0?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Video 2/2: <u>Reconfiguring </u>the Computa Pranksta for use as a <u>USB Mouse Jiggler to keep your screensaver off</u>:</b><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iKUE0a1e61g/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iKUE0a1e61g?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<b>Computa Pranksta facts:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>It does NOT require any special software on your computer.</li>
<li>It does NOT install anything on your computer.</li>
<li>It doesn't harm your computer.</li>
<li>It DOES type on your computer just like a human would be able to type on a keyboard.</li>
<li>It DOES move and control your mouse on your computer just like a human would be able to move the mouse physically around to control the cursor.</li>
<li>The computer thinks it's a USB keyboard and mouse.</li>
<li><span style="color: blue;">To see all that the Computa Pranksta can do jump straight down and read the text in blue for all of its various modes and functions.</span></li>
<li>It has 93312 unique user configurations.</li>
<li>It may take up to 10~15 sec or so to begin working once you plug the Computa Pranksta into a USB port.</li>
<li>If it doesn't seem to work in one of your USB ports, keep trying until you've tried *all* the ports, as not all ports are exactly the same. As a last resort, plug the device into a USB 2.0 hub and then plug the hub into the computer.</li>
<li><b>It has been tested and works in Windows.</b></li>
<li><b>It has <u>not</u> been tested in Mac OS, in Linux, or on Chromebooks. No guarantees it will work on these operating systems, but you can always try.</b></li><li><b>See also the <a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/issues?q=is%3Aissue+label%3AFAQ+">FAQ here</a>.</b></li><li>It's just a keyboard/mouse combo. <a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/issues/1">Here are the Super Geek details of how it works!</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<b></b>
<b>DISCLAIMER</b>: YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR HOW YOU USE THIS DEVICE AND ANY REPERCUSSIONS FROM YOUR USE OF THE PRODUCT. I AM NOT LIABLE FOR HOW YOU CHOOSE TO USE IT OR THE CONSEQUENCES OF YOUR USE OF THE PRODUCT--THAT'S ALL ON YOU. Also, this product is not affiliated with Digistump in any way.<br />
<br />
<div class="nobrtable">
<table align="center" border="2" bordercolor="#000000" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="background-color: white; width: 448px;"><tbody>
<tr style="background-color: #0033ff; color: white; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-top: 5px; vertical-align: top;"><th align="center" colspan="2" width="95%"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Computa Pranksta Images </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: medium;">(click to enlarge)</span></b></th></tr>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<b>What it does:</b><br />
The Computa Pranksta can type on your computer and move your mouse. It's essentially a "smart" USB mouse and keyboard with special functions, keystrokes, and movements pre-programmed in. Due to the nature of how USB keyboards work, however, it also has the unique feature of being able to *read* <b>Caps Lock</b>, <b>Num Lock</b>, and <b>Scroll Lock</b> key presses you make on your actual keyboard. This is important, as this is how you will interact with the device to change its configuration settings.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>It has a total of 8 x 9 x 12 x 9 x 12 = 93,312 user configuration permutations, or unique user configurations. Have fun. Try them all. :)</b><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Just reading to see what this thing can do?</b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYZ2GTB/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=elecrc-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B06ZYZ2GTB&linkId=01e462346a0ba4fee97e5a5e67f73a74" target="_blank">Get started by purchasing the Computa Pranksta on Amazon today</a>.</b></div>
<br />
<b>What to do when the Computa Pranksta first arrives:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Plug it in to any USB port (preferably a USB 2.0 port). It may not work in some USB 3.0 ports. You can identify USB 3.0 ports because they are marked SS ("Super Speed"), or have a blue plug. If you only have USB 3.0 ports, try each port. If the Computa Pranksta doesn't work in any USB 3.0 ports, plug a USB 2.0 hub in then plug the device into the hub.</li>
<li><b><i>It may take up to 10~15 sec or so to begin working once you plug the Computa Pranksta into a USB port.</i></b></li>
<li>When you first receive it and plug it in:</li>
<ul>
<li>It will slowly drag your mouse to the lower-left corner of the screen.</li>
<li>It will randomly type a random number (1-10 characters) of random characters every 0 to 10 seconds. To see the characters type out, ensure you have a text editor open (Microsoft Word, Notepad, email, LibreOffice Writer, etc...)</li>
<ul>
<li>Here's an example of the text output after several seconds: Nb{Ef>{&H%BVSV'l,K",Pa{@U>2AUGG=$^YD{g?U_[kL6ratTB >$DvRcv$</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li>Press Caps Lock to cycle through 11 unique mouse movement modes plus the mouse OFF mode, for a total of 12 Mouse Move modes.</li>
<li><span style="color: red;"><b>CAUTION</b></span>: It doesn't have a protective case (sorry, maybe in a future version), so I recommend you wrap up the bare circuitry part of the device (except the plug part of it of course) in electrical tape or masking tape or something, to protect it from static electricity/Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). This is especially important in dry climates, where static electricity is worse. You might consider putting it in the silver ESD-safe bag it first came in to keep it safe during transport and when not in use.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<i><span style="color: red;"><b>CAUTION</b></span>: Do NOT try and reprogram the Computa Pranksta from source code or else you will permanently lose its functionality and have to buy another one to get its functionality back.</i></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>To reconfigure the device's settings, you will use a unique sequence of Scroll Lock and Caps Lock key presses, as described below.</b> </div>
<ul>
<li>If you think your keyboard doesn't have Scroll Lock or Caps Lock, look for the smaller font on your keys (usually blue in color) associated with the "FN" Function key. You may have to hold the FN key while pressing INS, for instance, to get Scroll Lock. Google your particular laptop or keyboard for help. A special key sequence may be required. </li>
<li>For Chromebooks, for example, <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=chrome+book+caps+lock&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&oq=chrome+book+caps+lock&aqs=chrome..69i57.2568j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" target="_blank">a quick Google search</a> tells me that <b>alt + search</b> is used for Caps Lock. For Scroll Lock, you may be able to use an "On-Screen Keyboard" to access a virtual Scroll Lock button, or just plug in an external keyboard with built-in Scroll Lock.</li>
<li>Use an external keyboard to get Caps Lock and Scroll Lock if you have no other choice. Remember, the device will still function without you being able to press these keys--it's just that you need these keys to reconfigure the settings. Again, pressing these keys is only required to <i>reconfigure </i>the Computa Pranksta, not for it to work normally.</li>
</ul>
<div>
<center style="text-align: left;">
</center>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">How to Enter "Programming Mode" (Scroll Lock x 5):</span></b></div>
<div>
<br />
To enter programming mode, <b>open up any text editor</b> (ex: Microsoft Word, Notepad, LibreOffice Writer, etc, but NOT Notepad++, as its autocomplete feature messes up the typed output from the device). With your cursor in the editor, plug in the Computa Pranksta. Once it is active, <b>press Scroll Lock 5 times quickly</b>. If you wait too long between presses (~ 1 sec) it will time out and you'll have to do the 5 presses again. The device will type out the following into your text editor you have open:<br />
<br />
<pre class="brush:text" title="<b>Sample output typed out by the Computa Pranksta upon entering programming mode</b>">Computa Pranksta v0.90.0, by Gabriel Staples, www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com
keyboardMode = 2
timingModeKeyboard = 3
mouseMode = 3
timingModeMouse = 0
capsMode = 1
</pre>
<br />
<div>
Notice that upon entering programming mode it prints (types out) its name, its version number, and the author and website, followed by the 5 different mode settings and which mode number they are set to. <span style="color: blue;">Each of these 5 settings is described in detail in the blue text below. </span><br />
<br />
<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US&adInstanceId=3e4a5860-f371-47ea-be3a-4be12471c0f4"></script><br />
<br /></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">To save your settings and exit programming mode:</span></b><br />
<br />
Press the <b>Scroll Lock 5 times (SCROLL X 5)</b> quickly again. If you do NOT press this sequence again to save your settings, they will remain only until the device is unplugged. Once the device is unplugged and plugged back in, it will revert to its previously-saved settings.<br />
<br />
NOTE: IN PROGRAMMING MODE, ALL MODES ARE TEMPORARILY DISABLED UNTIL YOU EXIT PROGRAMMING MODE, EXCEPT FOR MOUSE MOVE MODE, WHICH WILL CONTINUE TO FUNCTION EVEN DURING PROGRAMMING MODE.<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">How to reset all settings to default:</span></b></div>
<div>
<br />
In programming mode, reset all modes to default by pressing <b>Scroll Lock 10</b> times in a row <b>(SCROLL X 10)</b>. Again, this only works while in programming mode.<br />
Important: Doing this does NOT update the values saved on the device. To keep the values from being reset to what they were when you cycle power you must still do <b>Scroll x 5</b> to save and exit.<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Changing Keyboard, Mouse, and Caps Lock Response Modes:</span></b><br />
<br />
<div class="nobrtable">
<!--HEADER, WITH FORMATTING SPECS--><table border="2" bordercolor="#000000" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="background-color: white; width: 649px;"><tbody>
<tr style="background-color: #0033ff; color: white; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-top: 5px; text-align: left; vertical-align: top;">
<th width="95%"><b><span style="font-size: large;">User Configuration Key Presses Quick Reference:</span></b></th>
</tr>
<tr><td><span style="color: blue;"><b><u>To enter/exit programming mode:</u></b> SCROLL X 5</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><b><u><br /></u></b>
<b><u>While in programming mode: </u></b></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">SCROLL X 1 = Change Keyboard Typing Mode</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">SCROLL X 2 = Change Keyboard Timing Mode</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">SCROLL X 3 = Print all current mode settings</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">SCROLL X 10 = Reset all modes to defaults</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">CAPS X 1 = Change Mouse Move Mode</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">CAPS X 2 = Change Mouse Timing Mode</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">CAPS X 3 = Change Caps Lock Response Mode</span><br />
<br />
<b><u>Key:</u></b><br />
SCROLL is Scroll Lock<br />
CAPS is Caps Lock<br />
<span style="color: blue;">"KEY X n" (ex: "CAPS X 3") means "quickly press the specified key 'n' number of times in a row to perform this action"</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Keyboard Typing Modes (SCROLL X 1):</span></b></div>
<div>
-performed randomly according to the Keyboard Timing Mode interval setting below<br />
-while in programming mode, press <b>Scroll Lock one time</b> to cycle through these modes<br />
<br />
<span style="color: blue;">0. OFF</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">1. randomly type a single random character</span><br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">2. randomly type a random number (1-10 characters) of random characters (DEFAULT)</span></b><br />
<span style="color: blue;">3. randomly type "hello"</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">4. randomly type “G”</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">5. randomly press (ie: toggle) the Caps Lock key; note: this will also trigger the CapsLock Response Mode set below—including cycling through the Mouse Move Modes if that’s what you choose to do, for example.*</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">6. randomly scroll up a random distance (1-10 mouse scroll wheel “clicks”) on the screen (makes it hard to read their emails or websites)</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">7. randomly put the computer to sleep (you mean prankster you!) (</span><b><span style="color: red;">§</span></b><span style="color: blue;">)</span><br />
<br />
<i>*However, if the CapsLock Response Mode is set to sleep, the Keyboard Typing Mode will NOT press Caps Lock, as this effect can be achieved instead simply by setting the Keyboard Typing Mode to sleep.</i><br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">(<b>§</b>). NOTE: if the keyboard “put computer to sleep” mode is selected, for your protection (so that you don’t get locked out from being able to reprogram the device) Keyboard Timing Mode CANNOT be set to modes 0 through 3, inclusive. In other words, the device will automatically set the Keyboard Timing Mode to mode 4 if you try to set it to 0, 1, 2, or 3.</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Keyboard Timing Modes (SCROLL X 2):</span></b></div>
-controls how often the “Keyboard Typing Mode” action occurs<br />
-while in programming mode, press <b>Scroll Lock two times</b> to cycle through these modes<br />
<div>
<br />
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">0. randomly every 0 to 0.1 sec (</span><b><span style="color: red;">§</span></b><span style="color: blue;">)</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">1. randomly every 0 to 0.2 sec (</span><b><span style="color: red;">§</span></b><span style="color: blue;">)</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">2. randomly every 0 to 2 sec (</span><b><span style="color: red;">§</span></b><span style="color: blue;">)</span></div>
<div>
<b><span style="color: blue;">3. randomly every 0 to 10 sec (</span><span style="color: red;">§</span><span style="color: blue;">) (DEFAULT)</span></b></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">4. randomly every 10 to 30 sec</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">5. randomly every 30 to 60 sec </span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">6. randomly every 1 to 5 min</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">7. randomly every 5 to 15 min</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">8. randomly every 15 min to 1 hr</span></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Print (type out) all current mode settings (SCROLL X 3):</span></b><br />
-while in programming mode, press <b>Scroll Lock three times</b> to print (type out) all current mode settings.<br />
Here is an example of the output:<br />
<br />
keyboardMode = 2<br />
timingModeKeyboard = 3<br />
mouseMode = 3<br />
timingModeMouse = 0<br />
capsMode = 1<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<center>
<span style="color: #1e1e1e; font-size: x-small; font-weight: bold;">ADVERTISEMENT:</span><br /><ins class="adsbygoogle" data-ad-client="ca-pub-2645889611712669" data-ad-slot="5012629832" style="display: inline-block; height: 250px; width: 300px;"></ins></center>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Mouse Move Modes (CAPS X 1)</span></b></div>
<div>
-performed according to the Mouse Timing Mode interval setting below </div>
<div>
-this is the only mode that will actually remain active during programming mode, this way you can see its effect immediately while in programming mode<br />
-while in programming mode, press <b>Caps Lock one time</b> to cycle through these modes</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">0. OFF </span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">1. randomMouseJumpAround</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">2. randomMouseBuzzAround</span></div>
<div>
<b><span style="color: blue;">3. dragMouseToLowerLeft (DEFAULT)</span></b></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">4. multiCursor 2</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">5. multiCursor 3</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">6. multiCursor 4</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">7. multiCursor 5</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">8. mouseCircle</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">9. mouseSquare</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">10. mouseHeart</span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;">11. mouseStar</span></div>
<div>
<br />
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Mouse Timing Modes (CAPS X 2)</span></b></div>
<div>
-controls how often the “Mouse Move Mode” action occurs<br />
-while in programming mode, press <b>Caps Lock two times</b> to cycle through these modes<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">0. continuously move (DEFAULT)</span></b><br />
<span style="color: blue;">1. randomly every 0 to 0.2 sec</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">2. randomly every 0 to 2 sec</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">3. randomly every 0 to 10 sec</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">4. randomly every 10 to 30 sec</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">5. randomly every 30 to 60 sec</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">6. randomly every 1 to 5 min</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">7. randomly every 5 to 15 min</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">8. randomly every 15 min to 1 hr</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Caps Lock Response Modes (CAPS X 3)</span></b></div>
<div>
-performed every time the Caps Lock key is pressed (or as described below) and if the Computa Pranksta is plugged in<br />
-while in programming mode, press <b>Caps Lock three times</b> to cycle through these modes<br />
<br />
<span style="color: blue;">0. OFF</span><br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">1. cycle through all Mouse Move Modes (DEFAULT)</span></b><br />
<span style="color: blue;">2. cycle only through “MultiCursor” Mouse Move Modes (1 through 5 cursors)</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">3. cycle through the Keyboard Typing Modes (do the next Keyboard Typing Mode action once right now, but also keep it on to randomly occur at the given Keyboard Timing Mode interval)</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">4. allow the currently set Mouse Move Mode to function only when CapsLock is ON <i>(this mode is good to keep your computer awake while doing professional presentations, for example; just turn the Keyboard Typing Mode OFF, and now use Caps Lock to turn mouse movement on and off)</i></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">5. allow the currently set Mouse Move Mode to function only when CapsLock is OFF <i>(this one is pretty good/quite irritating whenever you’re typing, because if you want to type in lowercase you have to turn CapsLock OFF, which means the mouse movement is ON, so you can’t click around in the document properly to edit it. This means you have to constantly press CapsLock to either type properly or click properly, but you can’t do both at once. :))</i></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">6. type a single random character</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">7. type a random number (1-10 characters) of random characters</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">8. type “hello”</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">9. type a “G”</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">10. keep CapsLock on; every time the user turns CapsLock OFF, the Computa Pranksta will say (figuratively—it doesn’t actually type this), “no way, not on my watch!” and turn that CapsLock right back ON within 15 seconds; <i>great prank on people trying to type, as every 15 sec or less while typing they’ll have to hit the Caps Lock key again to turn it back off (or hold shift) in order to type lower case letters</i></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">11. put the computer to sleep (you mean prankster you!); <i>here’s a fun prank! Turn on the computer’s Caps Lock, *then* plug in this device in this setting. When the user notices their Caps Lock key is on and goes to turn it off, their computer goes to sleep!</i></span><br />
<br />
<b>When all done configuring your device, don't forget to press SCROLL X 5 to save and exit programming mode!</b><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Troubleshooting:</span></b></div>
<div>
<br />
<b><a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_ComputaPranksta_Support/issues?q=is%3Aissue+label%3AFAQ+" target="_blank">FAQ</a><br /></b>
<br />
<b>Known Bugs:</b><br />
-<i>Bugs</i> are problems or errors with the code and implementation of the code. Ie: these are things I can work on and hopefully fix. <span style="color: red;">If you discover any bugs please report them to me <i>via the comments</i> section below this article <i>or by email</i> (see the "<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/contact-me.html" target="_blank">Contact Me</a>" tab at the top of this website to find my email address). Be sure to provide me with your <i>product version number </i>(obtained by pressing SCROLL X 5 to enter programming mode) and <i>approximate date of purchase</i> to help me track down the correct source code to debug.</span><br />
<ol>
<li>In firmware v0.90.0, Caps Lock Response Mode 10 ("keep CapsLock on"), doesn't behave exactly as originally intended. Instead of ensuring the Caps Lock key is on every 15 seconds, it does the following. For the first 256 seconds or so, it works as expected, ensuring Caps Lock is on (or turning it on) every 15 seconds. After 256 seconds, however, due to an <a href="http://stackoverflow.com/a/43578929/4561887" target="_blank">implicit promotion of bytes to signed integers when used in mathematical operations</a>, the Caps Lock is simply forced to remain on, or rapidly pulsed on and off continually. Since this errant behavior is still an excellent prank, however, there's no reason to despair. :) Just use it as-is! For firmware versions v0.93.0 and on (this is the 2nd released version), however, the bug is fixed and the Caps Lock will be triggered to ON only every 15 seconds when in this mode, as originally intended.</li>
</ol>
<br />
<b>Known Issues:</b><br />
-<i>Issues</i> are outcomes which are normal due to the nature of the product, but about which the customer should be informed in order to work through them. They are different from bugs in that they are not problems or errors with my source code that I have direct control over fixing.<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><b>“Jammed” key; ie: the actual physical keyboard won’t respond after I unplugged the device while it was in the middle of typing something out </b></li>
<ol>
<li><b>Problem</b>: If you unplug the device in the moment it is typing a character on the keyboard, it may “jam” a virtual key on the keyboard, and your actual keyboard on the computer may temporarily not respond properly (until you do the below fix). Ex: pressing “ctrl + A” to select everything in the text document you are working on may not respond anymore. I say “virtual” key because no physical key on your keyboard is actually jammed. The way that this device types capital letters is by pressing a “shift” modifier key in conjunction with a key code. It is possible that your computer got caught up somewhere during this transmission, since you unplugged the device in the middle of the transmission. </li>
<li><b>Solution</b>: </li>
<ol>
<li>Unjam the virtual modifier key by pressing the Caps Lock and Shift keys a couple times each on your keyboard. If that doesn’t solve the problem, you need to press every key on your keyboard until you press the “jammed” one to resend a clean signal from the keyboard to your PC. The easiest way to do this is to first “Lock” your screen (see below for how to do this) and then gently press the base or side of your hand down on as many keys as you can at once, and drag your hand back and forth across the keyboard until you’ve pressed all the keys. I say to do it this way simply so you can press them all quickly and not waste your time pressing them one at a time to find the jammed key.</li>
<li>To “Lock” your screen:</li>
<ol>
<li>Windows 7: click the Start Menu, then the little arrow next to the power options, and choose “Lock”</li>
<li>Windows 8: click the Start Screen button, then click your little name and picture in the top-right of the screen, and go to “Lock”</li>
<li>You can also try the shortcut: Windows Key + L, but this probably won’t work if you have a jammed virtual key.</li>
</ol>
<li>If the above doesn’t work, just restart your PC. However, let me note: I’ve never had to do this to fix the jammed key problem. Pressing Caps Lock, Shift, or all the keys on the keyboard has always worked for me.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>Device doesn’t work in USB 3.0 ports</b>. Note that you can identify USB 3.0 ports on a computer because they are oftentimes marked with either a blue plastic center, or they say “SS” or “Super Speed” or something along those lines next to the port.</li>
<ol>
<li><b>Problem</b>: This device is a USB 1.1 compliant low-speed device. Sometimes, for whatever reason, these just don’t work well in modern USB 3.0 ports.</li>
<li><b>Solution</b>: Plug this device into a USB 2.0 port or into a USB 2.0 hub which is plugged into a USB 3.0 or 2.0 port. </li>
</ol>
<li><b>Device doesn’t work after computer wakes up from sleep (assuming it is what put the computer to sleep, for instance)</b>. </li>
<ol>
<li><b>Problem</b>: After the device puts a computer back to sleep, sadly (maybe I can find a work-around for this in a future version), it doesn’t properly reconnect to the computer. This means it won’t continue running from where it left off. </li>
<li><b>Solution</b>: Turn the computer back on (ie: wake it from sleep if you haven't yet), then unplug the device and plug it back in to get it talking to the computer properly again</li>
</ol>
</ol>
</div>
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Keywords: computer prankster usb device, computer prankster user manual, Computer Prankster USB Mouse & Keyboard Device User Manual, computer prankster, mouse jiggler, mouse wiggler, mouse shaker, keep your pc awake, keep computer awake, prevent computer from going to sleep, sleep disabler, phantom keystroker, mouse/keyboard combo, programmable mouse jiggler, programmable mouse wiggler, Arduino digispark compatible device, usb prank device, usb gadget, phantom keyboard, phantom typing, phantom key strokes, phantom keystrokes, make friends think their PC is hacked, prank toys, computer prank stuff, stocking stuffer, cheap birthday gifts, Father's Day presents, Father's Day toys, computer nerd gifts, computer nerd stuff<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com42tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-74707987256703135562017-03-31T16:50:00.000-07:002017-04-01T13:09:36.023-07:00Arduino (ATmega328) Direct Register Manipulation for Custom PWM Output (ex: 1us HIGH followed by 99us LOW --> 1% Duty Cycle at 10kHz)Here's a quick example of how to make a hardware-based 1us HIGH pulse followed by a 99us LOW pulse (ie: 100us period, or 10kHz, PWM with a 1% duty cycle), via direct timer register manipulation. I've left ample comments for you to read and follow. This example below is therefore quite easy to follow and learn from, but just as it took me dozens of hours originally to learn how to do all this stuff from scratch--and to learn about all the different PWM modes possible as described in the datasheet and elsewhere, expect to spend at least a few hours if you are truly going to read the references and dig into it enough to understand it yourself. Good luck and have fun!<br />
<br />
<b>References to Study:</b><br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.righto.com/2009/07/secrets-of-arduino-pwm.html" target="_blank">Secrets of Arduino PWM, by Ken Shirriff</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet_Complete.pdf" target="_blank">ATmega328 Datasheet (660 pg version from 11/2015)</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/PinMapping168" target="_blank">ATmega168/328-Arduino Pin Mapping</a></li>
</ol>
<br />
Here's some oscilloscope screenshots of the output on Pin 3 produced by an Arduino Nano running the code below.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGkLGwtNitRxG9RXW0OZeIgHKt0aNeX2jMaToNwbrkyhBTMxSQQwDlZ1uAE23e49ehrl4LKHnfh5AK-g86sQBI1oBLIrAlHwnTXXiUABs6StQPJIlfWL4LWxN07pyu5breeafmkPrsK1RV/s1600/zoomed_out.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGkLGwtNitRxG9RXW0OZeIgHKt0aNeX2jMaToNwbrkyhBTMxSQQwDlZ1uAE23e49ehrl4LKHnfh5AK-g86sQBI1oBLIrAlHwnTXXiUABs6StQPJIlfWL4LWxN07pyu5breeafmkPrsK1RV/s400/zoomed_out.bmp" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rising edge to rising edge: Δx = 100us</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja00F8DBgGvonMqmZoyx-Qr630Ygyv3JyMk_bgCOvIElFim2PpRXi_PEt7nW2UblK_rWAckAkgnHGUcGKITEY81x51Vy4QDSFWkIATq70bxt-NznJTQc3LGORecW3DsA3Lb9jm1GB2phHU/s1600/zoomed_in.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja00F8DBgGvonMqmZoyx-Qr630Ygyv3JyMk_bgCOvIElFim2PpRXi_PEt7nW2UblK_rWAckAkgnHGUcGKITEY81x51Vy4QDSFWkIATq70bxt-NznJTQc3LGORecW3DsA3Lb9jm1GB2phHU/s400/zoomed_in.bmp" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zoomed-in view of high pulse. Rising edge to falling edge = 1us</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
Here's the code. Don't be put off by it. Literally, it's only 5 key lines of code, surrounded by a little fluff and lots of comments. The 5 key lines are setting the pinMode, TCCR2A, TCCR2B, OCR2A, and OCR2B. Take a look:<br />
<br />
<pre class="brush:cpp" title="<b>pulse_1usHigh_99usLow.ino</b> <br /><i>(to copy entire code block, double-click anywhere on it & use ctrl + c)</i>">/*
pulse_1us_100us
- use timer2 to make a 1us HIGH pulse followed by 99us LOW, for a duty cycle of
1us/(99+1)us = 1us/100us = 1%, and a period of 100us
By Gabriel Staples
- for my email address, click "Contact Me" link at top of my website here:
http://www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com/
References:
- Secrets of Arduino PWM: http://www.righto.com/2009/07/secrets-of-arduino-pwm.html
- ATmega328 Datasheet (660 pg version from 11/2015): http://www.atmel.com/images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet_Complete.pdf
- https://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/PinMapping168
*/
void setup()
{
//set 1us HIGH pulse followed by 99us LOW pulse (1% duty cycle) on pin 3
pinMode(3, OUTPUT); //Note: pin 3 is OC2B <--so use port B, not A; see https://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/PinMapping168
//Set timer2 clock with prescaler 8 (0.5us per count, so 256 counts --> 128us); datasheet pg. 157: CS22/CS21/CS20 = 0/1/0
//Set to Fast PWM with Top==OCRA; datasheet p. 155: Mode 7; WGM22/WGM21/WGM20 = 1/1/1
//Set OC2B to non-inverting mode; Table 18-6, pg. 154: COM2B1/COM2B0 = 1/0
//TCCR2A: pg. 153; TCCR2B: pg. 156
TCCR2A = _BV(COM2B1) | _BV(WGM21) | _BV(WGM20);
TCCR2B = _BV(WGM22) | _BV(CS21);
//Set period to 100us and high pulse time to 1us
//-Note that the high time you set here is OCR2B + 1 clock cycles, so OCR2B + 1 in this case
// is 2, which is 1us, since each clock count is 0.5us
//-To get clock cycles we must multiply desired microseconds x 2 (again, with a prescaler
// of 8 and a 16MHz clock, each clock count is 0.5us)
//-For this Fast PWM mode, note that the period is OCR2A + 1 also
//-For reasons for the above, see "off-by-one" here: http://www.righto.com/2009/07/secrets-of-arduino-pwm.html
//--Ex: Notice where Output B duty cycle is calculated in his example here:
// "Output B duty cycle: (50+1) / (180+1) = 28.2%"
//--So, for the reasons above, we must subtract 1 below to get the right period and duty cycles
byte pd = 100; //us; period
byte highPulseTime = 1; //us
OCR2A = pd*2 - 1; //set period
OCR2B = highPulseTime*2 - 1; //set high time
}
void loop()
{
}
</pre>
By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 31 Mar 2017<br />
Last Updated: 1 Apr 2017<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">History (newest on top):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">20170401 - minor wording additions for clarity and emphasis that the code is only 5 key lines</span><br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter Library</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/07/arduino-like-millisecond-and-microsecond-timestamps-in-python.html" target="_blank">Arduino-like millisecond (ms) and microsecond (us)-resolution timestamps in Python: millis(), micros(), delay(), & delayMicroseconds()</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">BattleBots Season 2 "Buzz" Fire Drone for Team Caustic Creations, with Team Interviews & fire-shooting Videos</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html" target="_blank">Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/using-arduino-unos-built-in-16-bit-adc.html" target="_blank">Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 16+-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)--an Article on Oversampling</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
</ul>
END<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-91976560871241665452017-01-10T19:57:00.002-08:002018-07-24T22:24:45.449-07:00Custom Firmware/Software Development/Electronics Engineering Work (Hire Me)Page Written: 10 Jan 2017<br />
Last Updated: 24 July 2018<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><b>UPDATE 24 JULY 2018: I'M TOO BUSY TO DEDICATE THE TIME REQUIRED TO ANY NEW PROJECTS. I'M NO LONGER TAKING NEW PROJECTS AT THIS TIME. SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE.</b></span><br />
<br />
<b>Hi! My name is Gabriel Staples. I work in the embedded software and robotics industry.</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Occasionally I take on side projects outside of my day job. </b><b>For instance, I added custom 2.4GHz wireless control to the <a href="http://www.cinemoves.com/powerslider-by-cinetools/" target="_blank">Cinemoves Powerslider</a> at a time when off-the-shelf commercial solutions for wireless control of the Powerslider did not exist. This feature I provided enabled them to do special shots in the filming of Mission Impossible 5 and other Hollywood movies. </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>I also built a <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">fire drone</a> for ABC's Battlebots show in 2016. </b><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinkyosxLWKQUBD0zM2Gs18fYWvHrkf4Eyio5PIdfmywlcCMy21Nl4MjdDwUL78n5nnI2tXkfw57qDhwk2iyDzXUE-3pAQcHbdMH-RViOlduWu6eI4KsDbMrhuXXimOWaLj3kz7kqC5xCxB/s1600/PowerSlider-on-Ferrari-Pod.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="915" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinkyosxLWKQUBD0zM2Gs18fYWvHrkf4Eyio5PIdfmywlcCMy21Nl4MjdDwUL78n5nnI2tXkfw57qDhwk2iyDzXUE-3pAQcHbdMH-RViOlduWu6eI4KsDbMrhuXXimOWaLj3kz7kqC5xCxB/s320/PowerSlider-on-Ferrari-Pod.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cinemoves Powerslider mounted on the side<br />
of a Hollywood stunt car</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i><b>If you’d like to hire me for custom work, begin by sending me an email. Make the subject line "Custom embedded work--name of project". Not sure if I can handle it? ASK! The worst I'll say is I don't have time, we're not a good fit, or it's out of my area of expertise. See below for details.</b></i><br />
<br />
Gabriel Staples<br />
Electric RC Aircraft Guy, LLC<br />
(Phone number available upon request by email)<br />
<b> PLEASE ONLY USE THE BELOW EMAIL FOR PAID PROJECT REQUESTS.</b><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b> - </b>If you are looking for free advice instead see <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/contact-me.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaoYfSYCgwoMH1ZKwN7b0liUXNapH-OokhMlW001XYBSSqVL2vwwq5BWV5m3mICMuTV1o8N8IT-1zVe6C7LbnUVKydsbjEJBDvcTk6l9ijO-gTdw5Fkm2RwgnkZonjBQPwJNtaRoF63F-S/s1600/gabriel%2540ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com+email+address+Font+12+100%2525+zoom.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="24" data-original-width="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaoYfSYCgwoMH1ZKwN7b0liUXNapH-OokhMlW001XYBSSqVL2vwwq5BWV5m3mICMuTV1o8N8IT-1zVe6C7LbnUVKydsbjEJBDvcTk6l9ijO-gTdw5Fkm2RwgnkZonjBQPwJNtaRoF63F-S/s1600/gabriel%2540ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com+email+address+Font+12+100%2525+zoom.PNG" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: medium;">Related Links:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Click here if you're looking for my generic <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/contact-me.html" target="_blank">Contact Me</a> page.</li>
<li>Click here if you're looking for my <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/07/about-me.html" target="_blank">About Me</a> page.</li>
<li>Read here to be inspired:</li>
<ul>
<li>"<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/04/aim-high.html" target="_blank">Aim High</a>"</li>
<li>"<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a>"</li>
</ul>
<li>If you're looking to learn more about me and my background, see my introduction, <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1S7wzSZrIRzqqSC_mozQEB9Wvmjwu1AAj" target="_blank">resume</a>, and <a href="https://www.linkedin.com/in/gabriel-staples" target="_blank">LinkedIn profile</a> on my <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/07/about-me.html" target="_blank">About Me</a> page, and feel free to contact me via my email above.</li>
<ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Hire Me:</span></b><br />
<br />
If you're looking for some <b>custom firmware/embedded software development and electronics-related engineering work</b>, you've come to the right place.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDbNvmXtxvjbMCekWXKcrP1XCuOu7SKX9edTleiynt2kgUolhYVR632ctn_Ss5kNsP-WWcC_vbr3Q6_1VsaslACauXGvLK_e4mS2vV6NTlVPSOGQiBDehfuntraekesH_hIPV_Rvc63X-0/s1600/20161228_124204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDbNvmXtxvjbMCekWXKcrP1XCuOu7SKX9edTleiynt2kgUolhYVR632ctn_Ss5kNsP-WWcC_vbr3Q6_1VsaslACauXGvLK_e4mS2vV6NTlVPSOGQiBDehfuntraekesH_hIPV_Rvc63X-0/s200/20161228_124204.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://goo.gl/photos/9RtEHE2Pv94beUUL8" target="_blank">Bluetooth-enabled touch lamp</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>I am a custom electronics and embedded systems software developer. I design and build custom digital circuits, write code, and use micro-controllers to meet your electronics needs.</b><br />
<br />
If you are using an Arduino for your project, and want your engineers to be able to do the same, I am a perfect fit for the job, as this is my go-to tool of choice.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>From building an Unmanned Aerial System (UAS) “drone” (<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">fire-shooting 10-lb hexacopter</a>) that appeared on ABC’s BattleBots in 2016, and designing and producing a camera controller wireless interface board used in the filming of Mission Impossible 5 and other Hollywood movies, to writing my own quadcopter navigation/path planning algorithm from scratch (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY3oh2GIfCI" target="_blank">demo video 1</a> / <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5kXzpPFdII" target="_blank">demo video 2</a> / <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjuPA43HceQ" target="_blank">simulation</a>), I have clearly and consistently demonstrated my passion and enthusiasm for solving tough engineering problems. </li>
<li>My intense self-motivation is what sets me apart. I do not limit myself to just what I have been taught, I teach myself when necessary, then I use this knowledge to solve problems others can't. When you hire me, I share my knowledge with you and your engineers and work with you to make your life easier. When I don't know how to do something, I do extensive research, ask questions and figure it out.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9z4uSSv4y20PhArEIITTp1snkukcG9NKmgCjAy8M1vTxhiMuR8cKk8P5joAzTjtIPzNgJiBYAN8DGFut8dNkGZbKaA31KkKpkUnSg9Jbsdz91RZDlxmdsHRg3sVJLKOQqZTSnQtoS-NZI/s1600/20170109_222528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9z4uSSv4y20PhArEIITTp1snkukcG9NKmgCjAy8M1vTxhiMuR8cKk8P5joAzTjtIPzNgJiBYAN8DGFut8dNkGZbKaA31KkKpkUnSg9Jbsdz91RZDlxmdsHRg3sVJLKOQqZTSnQtoS-NZI/s200/20170109_222528.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Hollywood camera wireless control board<br />
--helped film Mission Impossible 5 and<br />
other Hollywood films, as well as the <br />
2014 Emmy Awards.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul>
<li>If we're not a good fit, I'll say so. 100% satisfaction guaranteed or your money back (details below). </li>
<li>Career supported by a Master of Science degree and vast real-world expertise, with a B.S. in Aeronautical Engineering, graduating Summa Cum Laude from a top university.</li>
<li>5 yrs. full-time R&D experience + 2.5 yrs. part-time, including 3 yrs. full-time UAV/UAS experience + 4.5 yrs. part-time.</li>
<li>In my day job I write embedded systems software for self-driving semi trucks at a top San Francisco-based company.</li>
</ul>
Other projects I have completed are listed below.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi494eO30xO8N6TK9gtF7E0frOSvMGI_4o5pnGCbkhPA_9TTAsuOwtmC_VcQA3W00LZWeLJeNMZ9wpCAex-Xh1tIXsqG11yMONyYA4ljWc2dKZqlG5w1rwg4k0bXHMNmhREZg9QfuxhGQdV/s1600/Buzz+%2526+Poison+Arrow+scaled+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi494eO30xO8N6TK9gtF7E0frOSvMGI_4o5pnGCbkhPA_9TTAsuOwtmC_VcQA3W00LZWeLJeNMZ9wpCAex-Xh1tIXsqG11yMONyYA4ljWc2dKZqlG5w1rwg4k0bXHMNmhREZg9QfuxhGQdV/s200/Buzz+%2526+Poison+Arrow+scaled+up.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire drone I built, programmed, and flew<br />
for ABC's BattleBots TV show in 2016.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">If you’d like to hire me for custom work,</span></b> begin by sending me an email to the address listed at top of this page. Make the subject line <b>"Custom embedded work--name of project". </b>Not sure if I can handle it? ASK! The worst I'll say is I don't have time, we're not a good fit, or it's out of my area of expertise.<br />
<br />
Once you email me with a good description of <b>what is the problem</b> and <b>what you'd like me to do about it</b>, the first thing we'll need to do is <b>set up a video or phone chat</b>. <i>I do this freelancing on the side, so it will have to be outside of normal US Pacific-time business hours, as my first paid obligations are to my primary employer. </i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<b><i>Once we establish if it's a good fit for both of us, I will give you a <u>fixed-price</u> or monthly-retainer fee proposal. If we agree on the proposal, I take on the project for the agreed-upon price. </i></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>My work is guaranteed.</b> If at any point in our first 30 days you decide that I am not meeting the standards described in my proposal, just request a refund and I'll send your money back.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Why me?</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I have experience in a variety of disciplines. I am a keen engineer and an avid learner, always seeking to expand my horizons and take on the next challenge. Some of my past, present, and future experience is listed below.</span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Previous Custom Projects:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Quadcopter MATLAB flight controller with "lead point" vector field navigation algorithm and MATLAB GUI (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY3oh2GIfCI" target="_blank">video</a>)</li>
<li>MATLAB GUI and radio control (RC) transmitter PPM output signal interpreter and plotter (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZFCZ0LcJ80" target="_blank">video</a>)</li>
<li>Piezo-electric high precision (0.01mm), closed-loop linear servo driver, including quadrature encoder decoding, with command-line interface (<a href="http://bit.ly/Gabriel_Staples_High_Precision_Servo_Driver" target="_blank">videos x 3</a>)</li>
<li>Sensorless brushless RC motor rotations per minute (RPM) decoder/datalogger and command-line motor throttle control interface for laboratory bench top testing (<a href="https://goo.gl/photos/XkYDbchyiSMCA1Ay9" target="_blank">photos & unedited demo videos</a>)</li>
<li>Barometric pressure sensor altimeter data-logger</li>
<li><a href="http://www.cinemoves.com/" target="_blank">CineMoves</a> Hollywood action camera wireless control board interface to 2.4GHz RC Rx (<a href="http://bit.ly/CameraSliderWirelessCtrlBoard1" target="_blank">bench-top demo video from CineMoves</a>); among other things, this board has been used to help film the red carpet portion of the 2014 Emmy Awards, as well as scenes from Mission Impossible 5</li>
<li>High speed PC to RC Radio C++ software API serial interface and microcontroller firmware for off-board unmanned vehicle control-algorithm development and testing</li>
<li>60W speaker driver/amplifier and custom siren sound generation (<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/01/arduino-playing-siren-sound.html" target="_blank">info & videos</a>)</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Current Projects In-Work:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>TBD: possibly custom embedded work to add telemetry and "smarts" to an electric skateboard.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Other Projects:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Ultra efficient high precision ultrasonic ping sensor library for Arduino</li>
<li>Altitude hold and flip mode for <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/search/label/BattleBots" target="_blank">Buzz the BattleBot</a></li>
<li>16-Ch RC Rx reader/multiplexer library for Arduino</li>
<li>Arduino robot car (miscellaneous custom algorithms)</li>
<li>High power (100A+ at 12~24V+) power meter and car battery saver</li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atlas_V" target="_blank">Atlas V</a> wireless mesh network Mobile Launch Platform (MLP) distance telemetry parking aid (utilizing Arduino, Xbee radios, & Raspberry Pi)</li>
<li>Analog IR remote control (incl PCB design) and library for Arduino</li>
<li>Redesign of my MOSFET gate driver for my 60W siren in order to actively drive the gate voltage high <i>and</i> low--to minimize time in the ohmic region of the MOSFET, thereby reducing heating--instead of driving high and pulling low</li>
<li><a href="http://burchfieldautomation.com/" target="_blank">Burchfield positioner</a>-based rocket (space launch vehicle) tracking and filming system</li>
<li>"Computa Pranksta" USB prank device (to be sold on Amazon.com)</li>
<li>Bluetooth-enabled touch lamp circuit board educational and solder kit (including the PCB design) (<a href="https://goo.gl/photos/9RtEHE2Pv94beUUL8" target="_blank">prototype photos</a>)</li>
<li>Economical multi-thermocouple driver/sensor board for inexpensive home, school, university, and laboratory use--will easily allow live thermocouple temperature measurements and datalogging</li>
</ul>
<i>Note that if you want my services you need to convince me to put your project at the top of my list. Please contact me and let's discuss your needs.</i><br />
<br />
END<br />
<br />
Update History (newest on top):<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- 20180724: updated status: not available for new projects (too busy)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- 20180202: added new intro., mentioned Cinemoves, & added Cinemoves Hollywood stunt car camera slider picture</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- 20180126: minor change: added link to page for info on free help</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- 20180121: major update: added new email address, changed "consulting" wording to be more in-line with what I really do: custom embedded firmware and microcontroller/electronics development work; added photos of Hollywood project and Battlebot; added a line about my day job: embedded software on self-driving semi trucks </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- 20170110: initial version</span><br />
<br />
Keywords: hire me; contract me; contracting work; custom embedded firmware; custom software; paid programming work; for hire; embedded systems software developer for hire; embedded developer for hire; paid microcontroller programming; custom software; custom hardware; circuit design; custom microcontroller programming; embedded systems design; embedded solutions; embedded electronics; custom control software; custom interfaces; electronic interfaces; electronic design; design and automation; automated controls; datalogging<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-9126098903615913112016-11-21T20:47:00.004-08:002016-11-21T21:00:54.172-08:00MAX5481 10-bit Digital Potentiometer Arduino CodeBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 21 Nov 2016<br />
Last Updated: 21 Nov 2016<br />
<br />
Here is a sample code I wrote a couple years ago to command and control a MAX5481 digital potentiometer using SPI commands, including storing commands in the chip's on-board EEPROM (to save the last value written), or not.<br />
<br />
In this example you have to type commands into the Arduino Serial Monitor to set the digital potentiometer. I then interpret your serial command you typed, then I send it to the MAX5481 via its defined serial SPI API.<br />
<br />
The circuit and hookup is described in full in my comments at the top of my code. If you have any questions please post a comment below and I'll be sure to try and get back to you.<br />
<br />
Enjoy.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/MAX5481_DigitalPotCommander" target="_blank">GitHub link</a><br />
<br />
CODE BLOCK START
<br />
<pre class="brush:cpp" title="<b>MAX5481_DigitalPotCommander.ino</b> <br /><i>(to copy entire code block, double-click anywhere on it & use ctrl + c)</i>">/*
MAX5481_serial_commander4
new name: MAX5481_DigitalPotCommander
-Code to command this 10-bit digital potentiometer
--It uses SPI serial protocol: http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SPI
By Gabriel Staples
http://www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com
-click "Contact me" at the top of my website to find my email address
25 May 2014
*/
/*
MAX5481 1024-step Digital Potentiometer Circuit:
Pin Name Connect to what?
1 VDD +5V (Important: connect a 0.1uF [or larger] ceramic capacitor from VDD to GND, as close to the device as possible) [I'm using a 1uF multi-layer ceramic cap]
2 GND GND/0V
3 CS (SS) Any Arduino pin, let's use D10, since this pin cannot be used as an input anyway, during SPI operation, or else the ATmega328 hardware will force the
Arduino from SPI Master into SPI Slave mode. See: http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SPI
4 SCK Arduino pin D13
5 MOSI Arduino pin D11
6 SPI/UD +5V to select SPI mode
7 X
8 X
9 X
10 L GND/0V; this is the LOW side of the voltage divider
11 W Vout; this is the wiper on the potentiometer
12 H +5V; this is the HIGH side of the voltage divider
13 X
14 VSS GND/0V (make sure to tie this to GND)
*/
/*
===================================================================================================
LICENSE & DISCLAIMER
Copyright (C) 2014 Gabriel Staples. All right reserved.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
License: GNU Lesser General Public License Version 3 (LGPLv3) - https://www.gnu.org/licenses/lgpl.html
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
it under the terms of the GNU Lesser General Public License as published by
the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or
(at your option) any later version.
This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the
GNU Lesser General Public License for more details.
You should have received a copy of the GNU Lesser General Public License
along with this program. If not, see http://www.gnu.org/licenses/
===================================================================================================
*/
/*
Note: for details on SPI, see: http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/SPI
and http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/Spi (including the topic, "Why doesn't my LED turn on after starting SPI?")
*/
#include <SPI.h>
//Global Variables
const byte ledPin = 13; // the number of the LED pin
const uint8_t slaveSelectPin = 10; //SPI Slave Select pin for MAX5481 digital pot; this can be *any* output pin you arbitrarily choose
float VDD_measured = 4.4; //measured supply voltage to the device
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(115200);
// Set SS to high so a connected slave chip will be "deselected" by default (see SPI.cpp for details: C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\SPI\SPI.cpp)
digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,HIGH);
//set the digital pot's Slave Select pin as an output
pinMode(slaveSelectPin,OUTPUT);
//initialize SPI
// SPI.begin();
///////////in order to NOT mess up operation of LED 13, do not begin SPI until just before sending SPI data
// SPI.setDataMode(SPI_MODE0); //I think this is the correct mode; I also think this is the default mode, so I'll just comment this out
// SPI.setDataMode(SPI_MODE2); //test mode
// SPI.setBitOrder(MSBFIRST); //this is correct; the LSBFIRST bit order definitely does NOT work--it scrambles the commands (I checked); Note: default mode is
//"MSBFIRST," so I'll just comment this line out
Serial.println(F("Enter your desired command (0-1023) as an int, with end of line char on.\n"
"Type just a \"c\" to copy the EEPROM val to the wiper.\n"
"Type a \"t\" for True to have future commands also get stored into the pot's EEPROM.\n"
"Type a \"f\" for False to NOT have future commands also get stored into the pot's EEPROM"));
}
void loop()
{
//local variables
static boolean writeEEPROM = false;
//Blink LED 13
static unsigned long LED_blink_delay = 5000; //ms; time between toggles of LED
blink_LED_13(LED_blink_delay);
//read in serial commands, & update digital pot accordingly
if (Serial.available()>0)
{
if (Serial.peek()=='c')
{
Serial.println("copying EEPROM value to wiper register");
Serial.read(); //read in the 'c'
Serial.read(); //read in the '\n'
copy_EEPROM_to_wiper();
}
else if (Serial.peek()=='t')
{
Serial.println("writeEEPROM = true");
Serial.read(); //read in the 't'
Serial.read(); //read in the '\n'
writeEEPROM = true;
}
else if (Serial.peek()=='f')
{
Serial.println("writeEEPROM = false");
Serial.read(); //read in the 'f'
Serial.read(); //read in the '\n'
writeEEPROM = false;
}
else //the first char coming in is NOT a 'c', 't', or 'f', so it must be the wiper command
{
unsigned int command = Serial.parseInt();
if (Serial.read()=='\n') //read in the last char & ensure it is an end-of-line char
{
command = constrain(command,0,1023);
float V_out_calculated = command/1023.0*VDD_measured;
//print data
Serial.print("command = "); Serial.println(command);
Serial.print("V_out_calculated = "); Serial.println(V_out_calculated);
digitalPotWrite(command, writeEEPROM);
}
}
} //end of if serial is available
} //end of loop()
void digitalPotWrite(unsigned int command, boolean writeEEPROM)
{
//prepare SPI
SPI.begin();
//local constants
const byte WRITE_WIPER = 0x00; //command to write to the wiper register only
const byte WRITE_EEPROM = 0x20; //command to copy the wiper register into the non-volatile memory (EEPROM) of the digital pot
//const byte COPY_EEPROM_TO_WIPER = 0x30; //command to copy the EEPROM value to the wiper register
//command the new wiper setting (requires sending 3 bytes)
digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,LOW); //set the SS pin low to select the chip
SPI.transfer(WRITE_WIPER); //Byte 1: the command byte
SPI.transfer(highByte(command<<6)); //Byte 2: the upper 8 bits of the 10-bit command: (D9.D8.D7.D6.D5.D4.D3.D2)
SPI.transfer(lowByte(command<<6)); //Byte 3: the lower 2 bits of the 10-bit command, with 6 zeros to the right of them: (D1.D0.x.x.x.x.x.x)
digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,HIGH); //set the SS pin high to "latch the data into the appropriate control register" (see datasheet pg. 14)
//copy the wiper register into the non-volatile memory (EEPROM) of the digital pot, if commanded (requires sending only 1 byte)
if (writeEEPROM)
{
Serial.println("writing to EEPROM");
// delay(10); //wait a short time for the previous command to get properly set; this delay is not necessary, apparently, as determined through testing
digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,LOW); //set the SS pin low to select the chip
SPI.transfer(WRITE_EEPROM); //Byte 1: the command byte
digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,HIGH); //set the SS pin high to "latch the data into the appropriate control register" (see datasheet pg. 14 & 16)
delay(13); //wait 13ms (see datasheet pg. 16 under the paragraph titled "Copy Wiper Register to NV Register"--they require a 12ms wait time, so I'll wait 13ms to be sure)
Serial.println("done writing to EEPROM");
}
//End SPI communications, so that LED 13 can be used as normal as an indicator
// delay(1000); //TEST CODE, JUST TO SEE WHAT HAPPENS TO THE LED13 STATE DURING SPI TRANMISSIONS. (note: SPI.begin() simply turns off LED13, no matter what state it was in,
//and SPI.end() simply restores LED13 back to its previously-commanded output value, no matter what state it was in.
SPI.end();
}
//copy the value stored in the EEPROM to the wiper register, to command the wiper to go there
void copy_EEPROM_to_wiper()
{
//prepare SPI
SPI.begin();
const byte COPY_EEPROM_TO_WIPER = 0x30; //command to copy the EEPROM value to the wiper register
digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,LOW); //set the SS pin low to select the chip
SPI.transfer(COPY_EEPROM_TO_WIPER); //Byte 1: the command byte
digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,HIGH); //set the SS pin high to "latch the data into the appropriate control register" (see datasheet pg. 14 & 16)
//End SPI communications, so that LED 13 can be used as normal as an indicator
SPI.end();
}
//----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
//blink_LED_13()
//----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
//Blink LED 13
void blink_LED_13(long LED_blink_delay) //be sure to use a *signed* input parameter data type so that 0 (LED solid off) and -1 (LED solid on) are both possible
{
//local variables
static unsigned long t_start_LED = millis();
static boolean LED_state = LOW;
if (LED_blink_delay==0) //if in fail-safe mode
{
digitalWrite(ledPin,LOW); //keep the LED off
}
else if (LED_blink_delay==-1) //if we want LED steady on
{
digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH); //keep the LED on
}
else if (millis() - t_start_LED >= LED_blink_delay) //if time to blink
{
t_start_LED = millis(); //ms; update
LED_state = !LED_state; //toggle LED state
digitalWrite(ledPin,LED_state);
}
//THE BELOW ELSE STATEMENT WAS DEEMED UNNECESSARY, AS I HAVE DISCOVERED that once you do SPI.end(), the previously-commanded output value on the CLK pin
//(pin 13) is automatically restored to the pin, apparently via the value retained in a hardware register or something. So, code below not necessary....
// else
// {
// digitalWrite(ledPin,LED_state); //Write the last known LED_state to the pin, to ensure the LED is in the correct state.
// //This else statement, for example, is necessary when using SPI communications in conjunction with LED 13, because when
// //SPI.begin() is called, LED 13 is automatically turned off so that the SPI clock (SCK) can run on Pin 13 instead.
// //Once you are done with SPI communications, you can then call SPI.end(), and then call blink_LED_13(), to restore the previous
// //LED 13 state, via this else statement right here.
// }
} //end of blink_LED_13
</pre>
CODE BLOCK END<br />
<br />
<b>References:</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=242376.0" target="_blank">Arduino Forum: (my own thread where I asked a question about my code above) Solved: Need Help getting my SPI-controlled digital pot to write to its EEPROM</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
END<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-86225852861580032122016-11-08T17:59:00.001-08:002016-11-08T18:05:08.730-08:00Eagle PCB CAD - How to copy a part from one schematic to anotherGabriel Staples<br />
8 Nov 2016<br />
<br />
<b>Learning EagleCAD? Here's how to copy a part from one schematic or board layout to another.</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Open up an Eagle Control Panel, and the board and schematic you are working on.</li>
<li>Open up a *second* Eagle Control Panel, and the board and schematic you want to copy from.</li>
<li>Use the group tool to make a selection of a part to copy.</li>
<li>Click the copy tool, then ctrl + right click to copy the *grouped* selection to the clipboard. Press Esc now to not paste it anywhere in this project. </li>
<ol>
<li>Note that you *must* use the group tool followed by ctrl + right click even if only copying a single object, since that's the only way to get it to your PC's clipboard.</li>
</ol>
<li>Go back to the schematic you'd like to paste into, and click the "paste" tool. Left-click anywhere to paste what's in the clipboard. </li>
</ol>
<br />
Done!<br />
<br />
Helpful References:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/using-eagle-schematic" target="_blank">https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/using-eagle-schematic</a></li>
<li><a href="https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/using-eagle-board-layout" target="_blank">https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/using-eagle-board-layout</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
...among many others.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-52070609306337616862016-10-24T10:19:00.002-07:002016-11-22T18:44:25.439-08:00Learning More About Power ElectronicsBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 24 Oct. 2016<br />
Last Updated: 24 Oct. 2016<br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/10/syntaxhighlighter.html" target="_blank">Adding & Customizing Nicely-formatted Blocks of Source Code on Your Website using SyntaxHighlighter</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/07/arduino-like-millisecond-and-microsecond-timestamps-in-python.html" target="_blank">Arduino-like millisecond (ms) and microsecond (us)-resolution timestamps in Python: millis(), micros(), delay(), & delayMicroseconds()</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">BattleBots Season 2 "Buzz" Fire Drone for Team Caustic Creations, with Team Interviews & fire-shooting Videos</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html" target="_blank">Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/using-arduino-unos-built-in-16-bit-adc.html" target="_blank">Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 16+-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)--an Article on Oversampling</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
</ul>
So, recently I was introduced to <a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/" target="_blank"><b>www.PowerElectronicsNews.com</b></a> by <a href="http://www.sixtysecondtech.com/" target="_blank"><b>SixtySecondTech</b></a>, a website which aims to become somewhat of a "website directory that lists quality websites they find valuable and resourceful for the Technology community" (<a href="http://www.sixtysecondtech.com/about-us/" target="_blank">source</a>). As SixtySecondTech grows their database, I hope they can become a good resource to the electronics, maker, Arduino, Raspberry Pi, and other communities.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-GcR8s_938Qd7WeRlcP9X-BrQOs7el1HBnyiWAY1kdYR1lPvu7lUC3X2PI5Go2x3m_NUKQ4E1fyXJLG_ueA9ppfKXZRxOmGPabahvn-hdWEe_L8l-Zq5rWSZAVZ63eqJlSdIaYYxsHgU/s1600/main-logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-GcR8s_938Qd7WeRlcP9X-BrQOs7el1HBnyiWAY1kdYR1lPvu7lUC3X2PI5Go2x3m_NUKQ4E1fyXJLG_ueA9ppfKXZRxOmGPabahvn-hdWEe_L8l-Zq5rWSZAVZ63eqJlSdIaYYxsHgU/s1600/main-logo.png" /></a></div>
PowerElectronicsNews is a brand new company who offers "electrical engineering news focused on power and power solutions," including highlighting "solutions and products featuring the latest innovations" in power design. As I continue to grow my skills I hope to be able to apply some of the background knowledge I glean from their articles, so I can use it in real, hands-on projects I can then share and apply instead of just reading a high-level description of it. A few interesting-looking articles of theirs include the following. I have marked with asterisks the articles that particularly interest me. The more asterisks, the better.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/news/news-power-components/power-matters-designing-with-power-operational-amplifiers" target="_blank">Power matters: Designing with power operational amplifiers</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/technology/power-supplies/electric-vehicles-special-report-to-satisfy-your-curiosity-and-increase-your-engineering-skills" target="_blank">Electric Vehicles: Special Report to satisfy your curiosity and increase your engineering skills</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/technology/what-an-ev-battery-maker-says-ees-need-to-know-part-1-safety-concerns" target="_blank">What an EV battery maker says EEs need to know — Part 1: Safety concerns</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/technology/what-an-ev-battery-maker-says-ees-need-to-know-part-2-the-best-chemistries-now-and-in-the-future" target="_blank">What an EV battery maker says EEs need to know — Part 2: The best chemistries now and in the future</a></li>
<li>*****<a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/technology/power-semiconductors/the-three-ps-of-led-driver-selection" target="_blank">The three P’s of LED driver selection</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/technology/power-semiconductors/power-integrations-leading-support-for-usb-pd-type-c" target="_blank">Power Integrations leading support for USB-PD/ Type-C</a></li>
<li>*****<a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/technology/batteries/gadget-guts-testing-lithium-ion-batteries" target="_blank">Gadget Guts: Testing lithium-ion batteries</a></li>
<li>****<a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/technology/batteries/battery-management-ics-cater-to-different-applications" target="_blank">Battery management ICs cater to different applications</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
<br />
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One of their categories particularly interesting to me is their "Batteries" section (<a href="http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/category/batteries" target="_blank">http://www.powerelectronicsnews.com/category/batteries</a>). Be sure to click "View More" at the bottom of their category links which are found as tabs at the top of their page. If you read my articles about <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">parallel charging LiPos</a> or <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html" target="_blank">restoring over-discharged LiPos</a>, you'll see batteries is one area I find worth-while studying about, as it applies to just about every electronic or robotic device in the world. </div>
<br />
In Arduino projects, LEDs are *very* commonly used, so the LED driver selection article above looks interesting to me too. One important thing to note, as the image below (from that article) shows, is that each parallel string of LEDs *must* have its own current limiter in series. Otherwise, one string of LEDs will receive more current than another, until it eventually burns up. Once it burns up, it's a cascading effect: the remaining strands have more current to bear, so they burn up too. Many cheap Chinese flashlights and LED-based devices are poorly designed and don't have a proper current limiter in series with each parallel string, and the LEDs burn up way before they should. Don't make that mistake. You can NOT just have a single current limiter in series with a bunch of LED stands in parallel. Again, each strand in parallel needs its *own* current limiter, so that all the current limiters are paralleled too, thereby properly sharing the load between the different strings. <b>Note that the most common current limiter is a simple resistor, but I recently learned how to make a passive (ie: not microcontroller-based) feed-back-based current limiter using an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depletion_and_enhancement_modes" target="_blank">N-Channel depletion-mode MOSFET</a>. I hope to share that with you sometime.</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmuwiikwSQZaZ5LlOdvTKswZpUTYLrZ0O8oY7-GM2ZK9Y1mnE6DWzJ_F0W5bCTSnYNUEHGvixe80iqCiMN5Xt8SDZ8lvBJN0h3Vj0RF4ubw-k2EKbGVxy5o-FWp6b2Y9QsKXaeIin-nLaN/s1600/LinkCom_LED_Select_fig2-LoRes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmuwiikwSQZaZ5LlOdvTKswZpUTYLrZ0O8oY7-GM2ZK9Y1mnE6DWzJ_F0W5bCTSnYNUEHGvixe80iqCiMN5Xt8SDZ8lvBJN0h3Vj0RF4ubw-k2EKbGVxy5o-FWp6b2Y9QsKXaeIin-nLaN/s320/LinkCom_LED_Select_fig2-LoRes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Anyway, happy reading and go build something! As Destin says (from my quotes at the right-hand side of my website), <b>be a </b><u style="font-weight: bold;">thinker</u><b> *and* be a </b><u style="font-weight: bold;">doer</u>...not just one or the other.<br />
<br />
~Gabriel Staples<br />
<br />
END<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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Written: 21 Oct. 2016<br />
Last Updated: 21 Oct. 2016<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2015/02/using-html-text-formatting-for-google-blogger-comments.html" target="_blank">How To Use Basic HTML Text Formatting for Google Blogger Comments (add bold, hyperlinks, & italics to blog comments)</a></li>
</ul>
<u><b>Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/07/arduino-like-millisecond-and-microsecond-timestamps-in-python.html" target="_blank">Arduino-like millisecond (ms) and microsecond (us)-resolution timestamps in Python: millis(), micros(), delay(), & delayMicroseconds()</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">BattleBots Season 2 "Buzz" Fire Drone for Team Caustic Creations, with Team Interviews & fire-shooting Videos</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html" target="_blank">Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/using-arduino-unos-built-in-16-bit-adc.html" target="_blank">Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 16+-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)--an Article on Oversampling</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
</ul>
For quite some time now I've needed a nice, clean way to post snippets of source code, such as C++, Python, or HTML, on my website here. Finally I decided to figure it out. Here's how it's done. Note that my website is hosted on Google Blogger, but your website on Wordpress or anywhere else should also work just fine with this <a href="http://alexgorbatchev.com/SyntaxHighlighter/" target="_blank">"SyntaxHighlighter" tool by Alex Gorbatchev</a> that I'm about to present.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
First, follow these instructions here and paste the necessary pieces of code into your template: <a href="http://beendaved.blogspot.com/2015/03/working-with-syntax-highlighter-in.html" target="_blank">http://beendaved.blogspot.com/2015/03/working-with-syntax-highlighter-in.html</a>. I have installed both his "Option 1" and "Option 2," but I pretty much just use Option 1 since I like it better for my purposes. He made a little mistake for Option 1, however. He says to place it just before the "</head>" tag in your template, but you actually need to place it near the bottom of your template just before the "</body>" tag instead. You can see my comment at the bottom of his article.<br />
<br />
Now, you can use HTML in your posts, like this...<br />
<pre class="brush:html" title="<b></b> <i>(to copy entire code block, double-click anywhere on it & use ctrl + c)</i>"><pre class="brush:cpp" title="test code">
int myFunc()
{
//do something
return 1;
}
</pre>
</pre>
<br />
...to get nice, pretty, syntax-highlighted code on your blog or website post that looks like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6_3zpUPFoWtcbzifdrzbldmFAlMHinmZOnZDiby6lAghhMeyC6OQiO5inHzpKVA_X7Po8uG3WAmFCapM1baDBnPIk5bku-vJ7Eoqma5VT8L9iwJKE2LsXOPeqb6Iz8DiG18uzjA5MDfW/s1600/syntaxhighlighted+code.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6_3zpUPFoWtcbzifdrzbldmFAlMHinmZOnZDiby6lAghhMeyC6OQiO5inHzpKVA_X7Po8uG3WAmFCapM1baDBnPIk5bku-vJ7Eoqma5VT8L9iwJKE2LsXOPeqb6Iz8DiG18uzjA5MDfW/s1600/syntaxhighlighted+code.png" /></a></div>
<br />
Next, let's customize the colors and formatting. Looking here (<a href="http://agorbatchev.typepad.com/pub/sh/3_0_83/styles/shThemeDefault.css" target="_blank">http://agorbatchev.typepad.com/pub/sh/3_0_83/styles/shThemeDefault.css</a>), I can see the parameters I am currently using. For example, it contains:<br />
<br />
<pre class="brush:css" title="<b></b> <i>(to copy entire code block, double-click anywhere on it & use ctrl + c)</i>">.syntaxhighlighter {
background-color: white !important;
}
.syntaxhighlighter .line.alt1 {
background-color: white !important;
}
.syntaxhighlighter .line.alt2 {
background-color: white !important;
}
...
.syntaxhighlighter .comments, .syntaxhighlighter .comments a {
color: #008200 !important;
}
</pre>
<br />
<center>
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<br />
In order from top to bottom, as shown just above, my header background color is white and my alternating code lines 1 and 2 are both white. Comments are green (#008200). Let's change all of that. Add the following code to your blogger template, at the very end of your header, just above "</head>":<br />
<pre class="brush:xml" title="<b></b> <i>(to copy entire code block, double-click anywhere on it & use ctrl + c)</i>"><style type="text/css">
.syntaxhighlighter {
max-height: 550px;
background-color: #ff0000 !important;
overflow-y: auto !important;
overflow-x: auto !important;
}
.syntaxhighlighter .line.alt1 {
background-color: #99ff99 !important;
}
.syntaxhighlighter .line.alt2 {
background-color: #99ff99 !important;
}
.syntaxhighlighter .comments, .syntaxhighlighter .comments a {
color: #000082 !important;
font-weight: bold !important;
}
</style>
</pre>
<br />
Now, in the code just above, I have set my "max-height" to 550 pixels (make a really long code block and you'll see it constrained to this height now, with a vertical slider to see it all), my header background color is now red (#ff0000), my code background color (both alternating lines) is now light green (#99ff99), and my comments are now blue (#000082) and <b>bold</b>. Follow this format to customize anything you see in your .css theme file found here: <a href="http://agorbatchev.typepad.com/pub/sh/3_0_83/styles/shThemeDefault.css" target="_blank">http://agorbatchev.typepad.com/pub/sh/3_0_83/styles/shThemeDefault.css</a>.<br />
<br />
Here is my final result--very different from the default look above:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr5BHwRFP3BLmRcbzeOrP2zWpeHEznYJrpzUwetI6ND4deJp93aPKxASutX_MHAMcjhaeLMGv_n8CjW3uUQjSvfWwLZGYw2NMj5RcPetFegYC03FYdCEGUwPxpirATn0W-x-QMS_Nu4Oqk/s1600/syntaxhighlighted+code+new.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr5BHwRFP3BLmRcbzeOrP2zWpeHEznYJrpzUwetI6ND4deJp93aPKxASutX_MHAMcjhaeLMGv_n8CjW3uUQjSvfWwLZGYw2NMj5RcPetFegYC03FYdCEGUwPxpirATn0W-x-QMS_Nu4Oqk/s1600/syntaxhighlighted+code+new.png" /></a></div>
<br />
Note that the "font-weight" parameter I set is simply a CSS styling you can apply. Many other options exist. See here: <a href="http://www.w3schools.com/cssref/pr_font_weight.asp" target="_blank">http://www.w3schools.com/cssref/pr_font_weight.asp</a>. Now, those red and green colors I just made are pretty dramatic, so I've removed the comment bold and blue changes we just made, and set the other colors to something more appropriate for my website, as you should be able to see in my code samples within this post itself.<br />
<br />
Note: I have also posted parts of this article <a href="http://stackoverflow.com/a/40179869/4561887" target="_blank">on StackOverflow here</a>.<br />
<br />
END<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-18168251495078803092016-07-11T20:07:00.000-07:002016-10-22T17:25:47.905-07:00Arduino-like millisecond (ms) and microsecond (us)-resolution timestamps in Python: millis(), micros(), delay(), & delayMicroseconds()By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 11 July 2016<br />
Last Updated: 22 Oct 2016<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">History (newest on top):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-posted updated code (v0.2.1) with Linux functions too (not just Windows) - 22 Oct. 2016</span><br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">BattleBots Season 2 "Buzz" Fire Drone for Team Caustic Creations, with Team Interviews & fire-shooting Videos</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
Below, I show some code for basic Python millisecond (ms) and microsecond (us)-resolution timing functions. I made these to resemble Arduino functions I am already familiar with. Since these functions use the Windows API's QueryPerformanceCounter and QueryPerformanceFrequency functions, <strike>as-written, they work for Python in <i>Windows</i> only. If you decide to adapt them to Linux, please share how you did it in the comments section</strike>. Update (19 Oct 2016): I have updated these functions to work with Python in Linux now too! See below.<br />
<br />
Functions and code samples. Functions include:<br />
micros()<br />
millis()<br />
delay()<br />
delayMicroseconds()<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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<br />
<a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/PyTiming/" target="_blank">View source code on GitHub.</a><br />
<br />
<pre class="brush:py" title="<b>GS_timing.py</b> <br /><i>(to copy entire code block, double-click anywhere on it & use ctrl + c)</i>">"""
timing.py
-create some low-level Arduino-like millis() (milliseconds) and micros()
(microseconds) timing functions for Python
By Gabriel Staples
http://www.ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com
-click "Contact me" at the top of my website to find my email address
Started: 11 July 2016
Updated: 7 Sept 2016
History (newest on top):
20160907 - v0.2.1 created - updated delay functions to use modulus operator to guarantee proper C uint32_t-like underflow subtraction behavior when the timer rolls over
20160813 - v0.2.0 created - added Linux capability
20160711 - v0.1.0 created - functions for Windows *only* (via the QPC timer)
References:
WINDOWS:
-personal (C++ code): GS_PCArduino.h
1) Acquiring high-resolution time stamps (Windows)
-https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/dn553408(v=vs.85).aspx
2) QueryPerformanceCounter function (Windows)
-https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/ms644904(v=vs.85).aspx
3) QueryPerformanceFrequency function (Windows)
-https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/ms644905(v=vs.85).aspx
4) LARGE_INTEGER union (Windows)
-https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/aa383713(v=vs.85).aspx
-*****http://stackoverflow.com/questions/4430227/python-on-win32-how-to-get-
absolute-timing-cpu-cycle-count
LINUX:
-http://stackoverflow.com/questions/1205722/how-do-i-get-monotonic-time-durations-in-python
PYTHON (general):
-https://docs.python.org/3.5/library/ctypes.html - ctypes referene page
"""
import ctypes, os
#Constants:
VERSION = '0.2.1'
#-------------------------------------------------------------------
#MODULE FUNCTIONS:
#-------------------------------------------------------------------
#OS-specific low-level timing functions:
if (os.name=='nt'): #for Windows:
def micros():
"return a timestamp in microseconds (us)"
tics = ctypes.c_int64() #use *signed* 64-bit variables; see the "QuadPart" variable here: https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/aa383713(v=vs.85).aspx
freq = ctypes.c_int64()
#get ticks on the internal ~2MHz QPC clock
ctypes.windll.Kernel32.QueryPerformanceCounter(ctypes.byref(tics))
#get the actual freq. of the internal ~2MHz QPC clock
ctypes.windll.Kernel32.QueryPerformanceFrequency(ctypes.byref(freq))
t_us = tics.value*1e6/freq.value
return t_us
def millis():
"return a timestamp in milliseconds (ms)"
tics = ctypes.c_int64() #use *signed* 64-bit variables; see the "QuadPart" variable here: https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop/aa383713(v=vs.85).aspx
freq = ctypes.c_int64()
#get ticks on the internal ~2MHz QPC clock
ctypes.windll.Kernel32.QueryPerformanceCounter(ctypes.byref(tics))
#get the actual freq. of the internal ~2MHz QPC clock
ctypes.windll.Kernel32.QueryPerformanceFrequency(ctypes.byref(freq))
t_ms = tics.value*1e3/freq.value
return t_ms
elif (os.name=='posix'): #for Linux:
#Constants:
CLOCK_MONOTONIC_RAW = 4 # see <linux/time.h> here: https://github.com/torvalds/linux/blob/master/include/uapi/linux/time.h
#prepare ctype timespec structure of {long, long}
#-NB: use c_long (generally signed 32-bit) variables within the timespec C struct, per the definition here: https://github.com/torvalds/linux/blob/master/include/uapi/linux/time.h
class timespec(ctypes.Structure):
_fields_ =\
[
('tv_sec', ctypes.c_long),
('tv_nsec', ctypes.c_long)
]
#Configure Python access to the clock_gettime C library, via ctypes:
#Documentation:
#-ctypes.CDLL: https://docs.python.org/3.2/library/ctypes.html
#-librt.so.1 with clock_gettime: https://docs.oracle.com/cd/E36784_01/html/E36873/librt-3lib.html #-
#-Linux clock_gettime(): http://linux.die.net/man/3/clock_gettime
librt = ctypes.CDLL('librt.so.1', use_errno=True)
clock_gettime = librt.clock_gettime
#specify input arguments and types to the C clock_gettime() function
# (int clock_ID, timespec* t)
clock_gettime.argtypes = [ctypes.c_int, ctypes.POINTER(timespec)]
def monotonic_time():
"return a timestamp in seconds (sec)"
t = timespec()
#(Note that clock_gettime() returns 0 for success, or -1 for failure, in
# which case errno is set appropriately)
#-see here: http://linux.die.net/man/3/clock_gettime
if clock_gettime(CLOCK_MONOTONIC_RAW , ctypes.pointer(t)) != 0:
#if clock_gettime() returns an error
errno_ = ctypes.get_errno()
raise OSError(errno_, os.strerror(errno_))
return t.tv_sec + t.tv_nsec*1e-9 #sec
def micros():
"return a timestamp in microseconds (us)"
return monotonic_time()*1e6 #us
def millis():
"return a timestamp in milliseconds (ms)"
return monotonic_time()*1e3 #ms
#Private module function
#-see here for use of underscore to make "module private": http://stackoverflow.com/questions/1547145/defining-private-module-functions-in-python/1547160#1547160
#-see here for example of constrain function: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/34837677/a-pythonic-way-to-write-a-constrain-function/34837691
def _constrain(val, min_val, max_val):
"constrain a number to be >= min_val and <= max_val"
if (val < min_val):
val = min_val
elif (val > max_val):
val = max_val
return val
#Other timing functions:
def delay(delay_ms):
"delay for delay_ms milliseconds (ms)"
#constrain the commanded delay time to be within valid C type uint32_t limits
delay_ms = _constrain(delay_ms, 0, (1<<32)-1)
t_start = millis()
while ((millis() - t_start)%(1<<32) < delay_ms): #use modulus to force C uint32_t-like underflow behavior
pass #do nothing
return
def delayMicroseconds(delay_us):
"delay for delay_us microseconds (us)"
#constrain the commanded delay time to be within valid C type uint32_t limits
delay_us = _constrain(delay_us, 0, (1<<32)-1)
t_start = micros()
while ((micros() - t_start)%(1<<32) < delay_us): #use modulus to force C uint32_t-like underflow behavior
pass #do nothing
return
#-------------------------------------------------------------------
#EXAMPLES:
#-------------------------------------------------------------------
#Only executute this block of code if running this module directly,
#*not* if importing it
#-see here: http://effbot.org/pyfaq/tutor-what-is-if-name-main-for.htm
if __name__ == "__main__": #if running this module as a stand-alone program
#print loop execution time 100 times, using micros()
tStart = micros() #us
for x in range(0, 100):
tNow = micros() #us
dt = tNow - tStart #us; delta time
tStart = tNow #us; update
print("dt(us) = " + str(dt))
#print loop execution time 100 times, using millis()
print("\n")
tStart = millis() #ms
for x in range(0, 100):
tNow = millis() #ms
dt = tNow - tStart #ms; delta time
tStart = tNow #ms; update
print("dt(ms) = " + str(dt))
#print a counter once per second, for 5 seconds, using delay
print("\nstart")
for i in range(1,6):
delay(1000)
print(i)
#print a counter once per second, for 5 seconds, using delayMicroseconds
print("\nstart")
for i in range(1,6):
delayMicroseconds(1000000)
print(i)
</pre>
END
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-85040487154467628982016-07-02T18:34:00.004-07:002018-01-21T22:20:07.033-08:00About MeBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Electric RC Aircraft Guy, LLC<br />
Written: 2 July 2016<br />
Last Updated: 21 Jan. 2018<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20180121 - replaced 2016 resume with a 2017 version (still needs a little updating but is much more recent); also changed "Consulting Work" link to say "Custom Embedded Systems Work" instead, since that's a more accurate description</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20171014 - corrected "fluent in French" to "conversational in French," and added some detail about it</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20170429 - Added/Major updates to "Today" section</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20170318 - Updated links; added <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/01/consulting-work.html" target="_blank">Consulting Work</a> link, etc</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20170110 - Intro updated</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20160806 - More comments and notes added about my thesis Version 1; updated resume uploaded.</span><br />
<u><b></b></u><br />
<div>
<u><b><u><b><br /></b></u></b></u></div>
<u><b>
Other Links:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Need some custom work done? See my <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/01/consulting-work.html" target="_blank">Custom Embedded Systems Work</a> page.</b></li>
<li>Click here if you're looking for my <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/contact-me.html" target="_blank">Contact Me: Feedback? Corrections?</a> page.</li>
<li>Click here to <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/01/contribute.html" target="_blank">Contribute</a>.</li>
<li>Read here to be inspired:</li>
<ul>
<li>"<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/04/aim-high.html" target="_blank">Aim High</a>"</li>
<li>"<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a>"</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<u><b>A Few Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/04/computa-pranksta-user-manual.html" target="_blank">Computa Pranksta USB Mouse & Keyboard Device User Manual</a> [you can purchase this device now on Amazon!--see link at top of this article]</li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">BattleBots Season 2 "Buzz" Fire Drone for Team Caustic Creations, with Team Interviews & fire-shooting Videos</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/03/building-for-battlebots.html" target="_blank">Building for BattleBots - with Team Caustic Creations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/01/arduino-playing-siren-sound.html" target="_blank">Arduino police siren w/simple, custom transistor amplifier/speaker driver circuit</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Table of Contents</b>:</span><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Introduction</li>
<li>Early Days</li>
<li>Today</li>
<li>Education</li>
<ul>
<li>Master's thesis downloads</li>
</ul>
<li><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1S7wzSZrIRzqqSC_mozQEB9Wvmjwu1AAj" target="_blank">Resume</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/LinkedIn_GabrielStaples" target="_blank">LinkedIn</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Introduction:</b></span><br />
<br />
<i><b>My name is Gabriel Staples. I strive to make a positive difference in this world by means of robotics, programming, PCB design, small Unmanned Aerial Systems (SUAS) and Vehicles (UAVs), microcontrollers and embedded systems, flight controllers, sensors, electronics, mechatronics, and autonomous systems in general. I seek to be both a <u>thinker and a doer</u> on a daily basis, including at work and in my personal electronics and SUAS-related interests and endeavors at home.</b></i><br />
<br />
<i><b>I'm a passionate and enthusiastic engineer who loves to make things work and solve real-world problems.</b> </i><i>Some may wonder about who I am, my background and experience, etc, so here it is. I'm the owner of and engineer behind Electric RC Aircraft Guy, LLC. At the moment I'm just a one-man shop. I build the website, write the articles, do the projects, write the code, design the PCBs, answer the emails, do the marketing, etc--everything myself.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i><b>If you'd like me to come work for you as an engineer, contact me, as I'm separating from the US Air Force this fall (approx. Sept. 2017), after achieving both a B.S. and M.S. degree in engineering and serving 7 years as an officer-engineer.</b> The military provided me a great education and foundation for success, and now I am thrilled to be separating in pursuit of my engineering dreams. I thrive on using my engineering and other skills I've built up, and I fully intend to utilize <u>all</u> of my design engineering skills at work too instead of just at home. I'm also fluent in Spanish and conversational in French (I took 6 months French language training for 4~6 hrs/day, originally intending to move to France, in 2015) and love meeting new peoples and cultures and developing and utilizing my language skills, in addition to my engineering skills. I hope to do engineering oversees when given the opportunity too--perhaps even in Toulouse, France, Munich, Germany, or Switzerland, for instance. I'd really like to move overseas and solidify my French someday. </i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i><b>A link to download my resume is below.</b> You can find my email by clicking the "<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/contact-me.html" target="_blank">Contact Me</a>" tab at the top of this website. <b>To see some of my passion and goals, read my short blurb titled "<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a>." You should also read how important it is to me to "<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/04/aim-high.html" target="_blank">Aim High</a>."</b></i><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Early Days:</span></b><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
I first decided I wanted a Radio Controlled (RC) airplane when I was about 5 years old. Since my dad taught me about money from a young age, via weekly chores and an allowance, I had a reasonable idea just what $300 or more meant. I knew that was a lot of dumping the trash and picking up dog poop in our yard, and I knew it would take me years to save up, so that's exactly what I did...I began saving for an RC airplane at age 5.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh_xwW5mZs7sAUelC0wWXlcYJztTZQf49z_rzi_Nob5Egmg3C-24xjU1OyHOv1QqPneBXp18oI_pwFOgKpLUF517Yhb21RflMy7T8WNQPn9fmakqgeGuYwvIele7o3HaKf3F7z8_TDgP7/s1600/Gabe%2528holding+RC+airplane%2529%252C+approx+1996.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeh_xwW5mZs7sAUelC0wWXlcYJztTZQf49z_rzi_Nob5Egmg3C-24xjU1OyHOv1QqPneBXp18oI_pwFOgKpLUF517Yhb21RflMy7T8WNQPn9fmakqgeGuYwvIele7o3HaKf3F7z8_TDgP7/s200/Gabe%2528holding+RC+airplane%2529%252C+approx+1996.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fig. 1: My 1st RC airplane & I, age 11</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Fast forward to when I was 8, and my dad told us kids that if we each spent $100 of our own money on a baby calf, he would teach us how to raise it, and he would provide it food and shelter and shots at no cost to us if we just did the work to raise our calf and pitched in to do the work to raise several for him too. After three years of hard work and waking up at 5:30am every day to feed them, we each sold our 3-yr old "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cattle" target="_blank">springers</a>" (pregnant females) at an auction, for something like $1100~1300 each. By now I was 11 years old. Just like I wanted to do when I was 5 years old, I followed through with my goal by spending $550 of my total money on my first Radio Control airplane, a glow-fueled (internal combustion engine) Tower Trainer 40 (see Figure 1). With inflation, that is the equivalent of nearly $850 today (using this <a href="http://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl" target="_blank">inflation calculator</a>). That's a lot of money. Fast forward 14 years or so, and that hugely prohibitive cost of entry into the hobby is exactly what inspired me to write my ebook, <a href="https://gumroad.com/l/YBRnP" target="_blank">"The Details of Electric Radio Controlled Aircraft, a Technical Perspective with an Economical Approach," here</a>.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Buying that very expensive Radio Controlled airplane at age 11 is one key point in my life you might say I got my start in all of this: radio control planes, robotics, autonomous systems, engineering, Arduino, microcontrollers, programming, electrical engineering, etc. It all pertains to following my dreams from the very beginning. I learned the value of hard work and saving, and I learned what it takes to achieve a very difficult goal. For a 5 year old, that was a very difficult goal indeed. In actuality, however, my start was probably achieved at age 4 or so when I began making and collecting paper airplanes...but you get the point.</b><br />
<br />
I was born to <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">follow my dreams</a>. Or in other words, I've been pursuing my dreams since I was born. Though many failures and disappointments have come my way, I do my best to keep moving forward. It is my destiny in life to make a positive difference in our world, and I intend to follow through with that.<br />
<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Today:</span></b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Today I have completed many projects and have had the opportunity to participate in many things. A very small sample of those projects and things are presented here on my website. Click the "<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/p/site-maptable-of-contents.html" target="_blank">Site Map/Table of Contents</a>" link at the top of this site, for example, to see a full list of the articles on this website, sorted by keywords. Note that a single article may be associated with several keywords, so each article may appear more than one time in the list. For a more complete list of my projects and accomplishments refer to my <b>resume</b> and <b>LinkedIn profile,</b> linked to below.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here are a couple recent pictures of me from one of my favorite and most interesting projects--when I built <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/05/battlebots-season-2-buzz-fire-drone.html" target="_blank">Buzz the flame-throwing hexacopter for ABC's BattleBots 2016</a>. So, this is me. It's nice to meet you!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwcOiZaenEVfRNROq8G6Emiiw3Lz2bcoGjTN2NBjk9Rw5WECRF4gbZMjuM_-qri86N31Nn2X2yXqbSQVyxtwbKWU2suP_wd5Tccm3uyQ6ZpTf0Y2f8Os0R5ZbDoNftInN89L9qhcYk5KX8/s1600/battlebots-20160418_183921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwcOiZaenEVfRNROq8G6Emiiw3Lz2bcoGjTN2NBjk9Rw5WECRF4gbZMjuM_-qri86N31Nn2X2yXqbSQVyxtwbKWU2suP_wd5Tccm3uyQ6ZpTf0Y2f8Os0R5ZbDoNftInN89L9qhcYk5KX8/s400/battlebots-20160418_183921.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM36r3ZloAIqJzHJlhbamUWVSqiGo1PsmyLHaCy_aJ8-Zao7T6BwSoh4smMre-o5kOtvtm2iyvBEWz-vyEpKaBY9zr-MyrIq1ScfG9bHzreexkl-bRqMdxqKrxRALNtRpCHtrWVD_SjVhk/s1600/battlebots-Screenshot_2016-05-12-18-45-15.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM36r3ZloAIqJzHJlhbamUWVSqiGo1PsmyLHaCy_aJ8-Zao7T6BwSoh4smMre-o5kOtvtm2iyvBEWz-vyEpKaBY9zr-MyrIq1ScfG9bHzreexkl-bRqMdxqKrxRALNtRpCHtrWVD_SjVhk/s400/battlebots-Screenshot_2016-05-12-18-45-15.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Education:</span></b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>2010: B.S. Aeronautical Engineering, US Air Force Academy</li>
<ul>
<li>Distinguished Graduate (top 10%--comparable to Summa Cum Laude at a civilian university)</li>
<li>Arabic minor</li>
<li>3.660 GPA</li>
<li>94th Flying Training Squadron soaring instructor pilot w/159 instructional sorties</li>
</ul>
<li>2011: M.S. Mechanical Engineering, University of Colorado Colorado Springs</li>
<ul>
<li>3.670 GPA</li>
<li>Thesis: </li>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwHItOaHOOvdb25KYnhhYTVtdTQ" target="_blank">Version 1</a> (155 pgs): "Experimental Validation of a Numerical Model for Collimated Solar Radiation Absorption by a Rectangular-Microchanneled Surface."</li>
<ul>
<li><b>This is my favorite version, and the one I consider to be the most correct, as it contains my true words and points I wanted to make, including what I consider to be some very intriguing and useful numerical models and analysis I am convinced have merit and need to be included and studied further. The model does need improvement and the addition of heat flow analysis through thin-walled structures, but I think it is has great potential, nonetheless, in the analysis and study of radiation absorption. <span style="color: blue;">If you want to know which thesis version I think you should read and download, it's this one: Version 1</span>. If you want to know which one was my final thesis that I graduated with, it's Version 3.</b> </li>
<li>This version could use some more experimental validation to look closer at my numerical model, however, as it was somewhat lacking in quantity of empirical evidence. </li>
<li>This is also the longest version of my thesis, and, being a first cut at a complete product, is less refined than Version 3, and may have some minor grammatical, spelling, or other errors.</li>
<li>For reasons of her own, my adviser ultimately had me cut 100 pages out of this version, including all of the numerical models and their related plots and analysis, leaving only some of my raw experimental results in the final version (Version 3).</li>
</ul>
<li><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwHItOaHOOvdQWgzQUtqZmp1bnc" target="_blank">Version 2</a> (107 pgs): same as Version 1, except shorter. It still contained the brunt of my arguments I wanted to make, however.</li>
<li><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwHItOaHOOvdMTJ6ZVVzWXBFdFU" target="_blank">Version 3</a> (79 pgs): "Experimental Evaluation of Collimated Solar Radiation Absorption by a Microstructured Surface."</li>
<ul>
<li>This is the totally butchered version of my thesis, completely lacking the numerical models and analysis which I so badly wanted to include, and which I think provide valuable insight and should have been included. I consider that fact to be quite a shame, though that also makes this version the least risky from the perspective of possibly making any erroneous claims due to any real or perceived lack of experimental data, or any real or perceived misinterpretation of data. It is the least like my original version, and in my opinion provides less insight into the problem than the other two versions above. This version, however, is the most liked by my academic adviser. Of its 79 final pages, only 55 of them were contained in my original Version 1. Additional information was then added for clarity.</li>
<li>Since this version was the only one reviewed by all members of my thesis defense committee, it is also the most refined.</li>
<li>This is also the officially published version of my thesis, since it is the version read and approved by my thesis committee at the University of Colorado Colorado Springs (UCCS). </li>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1S7wzSZrIRzqqSC_mozQEB9Wvmjwu1AAj" target="_blank">Resume, Skills & Experience (click to download)</a></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://bit.ly/LinkedIn_GabrielStaples" target="_blank">LinkedIn Profile (click to view)</a></span></b><br />
Please note that in order to prevent my LinkedIn contacts from becoming diluted, please only invite me to connect on LinkedIn if you have <i>personally met me</i>, or <i>had enough in depth contact with me otherwise that we can speak to each other's technical expertise</i>. A key premise of LinkedIn is to know each other professionally at a sufficient level to provide endorsements and vouch for each other's job skills. If you are a random stranger, or a long-lost distant friend who hasn't spoken with me in ages, I will not accept your LinkedIn invites, since I cannot speak to your current job skills and technical expertise.<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-21641751545518260442016-05-14T20:41:00.000-07:002017-04-25T08:24:23.221-07:00BattleBots Season 2 "Buzz" Fire Drone for Team Caustic Creations, with Team Interviews & fire-shooting Videos<br />
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
By Gabriel Staples </div>
Written: 14 May 2016<br />
Last Updated: 25 Apr. 2017<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Update History (newest on TOP):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> - 25 Apr 2017 - updated "motor and prop sizing calculator" link below from http://adamone.rchomepage.com/calc_motor.htm (broken) to <a href="http://rcplanes.000webhostapp.com/calc_motor.htm" target="_blank">http://rcplanes.000webhostapp.com/calc_motor.htm</a> (new).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> - 11 June 2016 - updated article intro below, and added the big Battlebots photo below, since BattleBots just posted it a few days ago. Also added team photo & link to buy our T-shirts on the BattleBots store.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiokSTAFiKzR2vxSM-r1qpO583FzgDxEdUvaOXds-lwhEBGyFo1X29NJ7p2mkOi78Ell9m5A7D6Z5i4eyDG5VhopMdvv92idC80fkq3sfgs6_sGcmoVEoayNA2gVuH08R5FXXHI0E-uP0HX/s1600/20160514_193839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiokSTAFiKzR2vxSM-r1qpO583FzgDxEdUvaOXds-lwhEBGyFo1X29NJ7p2mkOi78Ell9m5A7D6Z5i4eyDG5VhopMdvv92idC80fkq3sfgs6_sGcmoVEoayNA2gVuH08R5FXXHI0E-uP0HX/s200/20160514_193839.jpg" width="200" /></a><b></b><br />
<b><b>I'm the creator of a fire-shooting flame-throwing battle drone (multi-copter), "Buzz," who is an air robot hexacopter companion to our ground bot killing machine, Poison Arrow, of Team Caustic Creations (<a href="https://www.facebook.com/CausticCreations" target="_blank">see our team Facebook page here</a>), on ABC's BattleBots Season 2 (<a href="http://battlebots.com/robot/23643/" target="_blank">see our BattleBots page here</a>, buy our <a href="http://store.battlebots.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=125_179" target="_blank">T-Shirts to support us here</a>), which will air on ABC starting 23 June 2016. I'm just one of 5 members on our team. Our main bot is "Poison Arrow." </b><b>Read below for some crazy-cool fire-shooting drone previews and build drama of Buzz, as well as team & bot interviews made by our sponsor, </b><b><a href="http://arrow.com/" target="_blank">Arrow.com</a>, </b><b>showing and discussing both robots.</b></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzu5Iaow9xz3HPi_j7klo5TYX42SPaU89um5o2oxkanUUJXMCGpjxu_9vg_oCoqGlOhl1C0nfTG6IE7NNCz1bpKgkNrAr1_zH7cRoAp9ZanaB5D2T9sDQdLkMg1_50IRwtj_YpgRaqyqR/s1600/FB_IMG_1465532017969.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRzu5Iaow9xz3HPi_j7klo5TYX42SPaU89um5o2oxkanUUJXMCGpjxu_9vg_oCoqGlOhl1C0nfTG6IE7NNCz1bpKgkNrAr1_zH7cRoAp9ZanaB5D2T9sDQdLkMg1_50IRwtj_YpgRaqyqR/s640/FB_IMG_1465532017969.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Source: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/battlebots/posts/10153603634031406" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/battlebots/posts/10153603634031406</a></td></tr>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>Build drama: why's fire gotta be so complicated!?</b></span></h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQJ6RZUwb-Lx-oBoUFoDI628yxWYAnCPs1CBR3B7gs7SwIZWvkA0yAzQ_S0yeIMfI_rXHlMbZxOzTeXiV5DnppoE1ckF84PspR6jVeVddleIuXDZs62WWPuvwLsJ7ridIw6-D9-f5Edv0/s1600/20160514_193839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>So, from ~17 Feb. 2016 to 14 April 2016, I worked frantically to get my fire drone, "Buzz," built from scratch and working in time for the BattleBots Season 2 competition, which was filmed in Los Angeles, CA from 15-25 April. It was very very frantic indeed. It was a very difficult project it turned out, and took me approx. 300 hrs before going to the event, in addition to another 100 hrs or so spent working on the vehicle, writing more code, and competing at the event. It also just so happened to be my first ever multi-rotor I put together from scratch (but don't worry, I've been using them for years and I have a lot of background research experience with them). Zach Goff, our team captain, worked with me to size the vehicle too. Putting our experience and skills together for that part was very helpful, as was this <a href="http://rcplanes.000webhostapp.com/calc_motor.htm" target="_blank">motor and prop sizing calculator here</a>.<br />
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I meticulously wrote a couple thousand lines of C++ code (some of which I started years ago, before I had the skills to complete it) running on the vehicle in order to give me greater control over it, for future additions and work which I hope to implement later in order to add more autonomy, hopefully for Season 3 next year. While at the event, in my frantic last-minute coding, I was even able to get a serial BlueTooth device working on the vehicle, and I implemented a custom command-line interface, from scratch, to configure parameters on-board the vehicle using my Android smart phone. I was pretty excited about that! :).<br />
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So, without further adieu, here's the result of my hard work. This is a GIF I created from a teaser trailer that ABC made for their show. This was pulled from their <a href="https://www.facebook.com/gabriel.staples1/posts/10100198757924573" target="_blank">teaser trailer here</a>, at approximately 1:40. The teaser is pretty awesome; you should watch it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrbgBZMiOMydPNu1p-oMVG9ySTGadkS2rojPSaBmPCHXkGEAjB_uQzsjGFm1B2spD0rABZpMP0NBGsyfVYjAoI9fKK9Yxk4KkCzcqBNHZucG5QPTyqqOHNRnRv0uLmgS7Wte9QqtK4RV1/s1600/Fire+Drone+High+Quality+300x173.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOrbgBZMiOMydPNu1p-oMVG9ySTGadkS2rojPSaBmPCHXkGEAjB_uQzsjGFm1B2spD0rABZpMP0NBGsyfVYjAoI9fKK9Yxk4KkCzcqBNHZucG5QPTyqqOHNRnRv0uLmgS7Wte9QqtK4RV1/s400/Fire+Drone+High+Quality+300x173.gif" width="400" /></a></div>
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As you can see, the vehicle is shooting fire. That....it turns out, was pretty stinking hard. Of my 300 hrs spent on the vehicle prior to the event (I actually logged 288.5 hrs in my project spreadsheet, but who's counting), probably *half* of that was spent just on the flamethrower. I ran into *many* problems, and each was hard to overcome. It turns out making things burn isn't as easy as one might think...especially when you need it all to be remote-controlled (RC). I had to build custom circuits, write lots of code, do some fancy programming in my Tx running <a href="http://www.open-tx.org/" target="_blank">OpenTx</a>, and play with lots of hardware. Needless to say, however, I learned a *lot*...and also ruined, burned up, and destroyed some parts along the way.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>Just how stressful and compressed was this build? Well, literally 15 minutes before I was supposed to drop my vehicle in a box and do *1-day* shipping straight to the event in California, I was putting out a flaming fireball in the street with a fire extinguisher. Now's a good time to give a big thanks to Alexa, my pregnant wife, for running the fire extinguisher to me while I was yelling and landing the vehicle (don't worry, we had pre-staged the fire extinguisher nearby "just in case," so it wasn't too far). Anyway, that flaming fireball was my vehicle. It caught on fire during a final test flight. I decided I really needed this final test flight since I had only gotten the flamethrower working properly and consistently ~24 hrs the day before I was supposed to ship it, despite my hard work and long hours I put into it. But...it was really windy outside, and the wind blew the flames sideways in such a way they were able to get closer to the bottom of the vehicle than normal and melt through some exposed plastic fuel tubing between the tank and the flow control valve. <b>Below is a picture of some of the aftermath: a burned prop (that was melted around a motor), and an ESC</b>. Luckily, I got the fire out quickly and the vehicle only took a few hrs to repair at the event. Yes, I had to put the vehicle fire out, box it up, and ship it to CA half-burned up, and with fire extinguisher powder still covering many of the components. Of course I removed the (now slightly damaged) batteries and ensured it was all cool and prepared before shipping, but man was that a hectic day. Needless to say I was very stressed out about that.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsxFIjeG6eRk1n7MQzU-HEbSdrP8dRe87Ks_xWHayu7TPjoqvBtTZhKNeeXdntdNm82W7MbUXZUdplxCQ1bz3mNJVmLvqT-xx42uS_MukQmyPl6H9y17Y84IAWE3zvj4ZUtB-s49cfDdcS/s1600/20160424_131525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsxFIjeG6eRk1n7MQzU-HEbSdrP8dRe87Ks_xWHayu7TPjoqvBtTZhKNeeXdntdNm82W7MbUXZUdplxCQ1bz3mNJVmLvqT-xx42uS_MukQmyPl6H9y17Y84IAWE3zvj4ZUtB-s49cfDdcS/s320/20160424_131525.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Let me also give a very special thanks to a couple of my neighbors, including Kerry Starr on one side, and Matthew on the other. Kerry was kind enough to help me frantically box up my burned up vehicle, so I could 1-day ship it to Los Angeles for the filming and event, and he even built the flamethrower nozzle and mounting brackets for me! Many thanks for the custom CAD files and designs, and for using some fancy schmancy CNC machines to cut out the nozzle and flamethrower mounting brackets! And many thanks to Matthew for watching out for us when he thought our house was on fire and came to check (nope...I was just running some manual flamethrower ground tests in the driveway), and for fixing our broken sprinkler head when I was too busy to do so. Also, I'd be wrong to forget my wife, Alexa, who had to put up with a lot while I was working on this, from taking care of our house and daughter, to being woken up at 2AM by our fire alarms while I was doing some igniter and low-flame tests in the house, testing my custom code and driver circuits for my remote control valve and ignition systems, and remote control flame activation and height adjustment.<br />
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<h2>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">
Watch BattleBots Season 2 starting on 23 June 2016!</span></b></h2>
If you missed the <b>BattleBots preview episode on 10 May 2016</b>, sorry, it was awesome! See if you can find it online. For the start of the main season, however, it is yet to come, so <b><a href="http://abc.go.com/shows/battlebots" target="_blank">stay tuned to ABC for BattleBots Season 2, episode 1 on 23 June at 8/7C.</a></b><br />
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Make sure you are rooting for our <b>team <a href="https://www.facebook.com/CausticCreations/" target="_blank">Caustic Creations</a> (see <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/03/building-for-battlebots.html" target="_blank">my previous article here</a>)</b>, with our main, 232-lb ground robot "<b>Poison Arrow</b>," and our 10-lb <b>air vehicle fire-drone, "Buzz,"</b> shown shooting fire above, as you watch the episodes.<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">While you wait for the main season of BattleBots to begin on 23 June 2016...</span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Watch Our Interviews with our Sponsor, <a href="http://arrow.com/" target="_blank">Arrow.com</a>, & some other videos, right now!</span></h2>
Here are a couple interview videos with our sponsor, <a href="http://arrow.com/" target="_blank">Arrow.com</a>.<br />
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<b>Video 1) <a href="https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/videos/arrow-sponsors-battlebot-competitor-caustic-creations" target="_blank">Pre-season interview</a> of Zach Goff (team captain) and Casey Kuhns, with the ground bot, Poison Arrow, by Arrow.com's Nick Powers. </b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Rp2aymumNuUQsHWXSC7crLZV0XCJA0LIE74tIJ4VhAbqCY20ICuwynwXJLrt3rid2E8of0ZIpVjtlQ6iZAFUjL-VGp46TThoiBCcPLRhgX25ASw6SNwCUucL4alSTxJKtW2MI2hyzh9c/s1600/Zach+%2526+Casey+w-Nick+Powers+in+Arrow.com+Interview+1.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Rp2aymumNuUQsHWXSC7crLZV0XCJA0LIE74tIJ4VhAbqCY20ICuwynwXJLrt3rid2E8of0ZIpVjtlQ6iZAFUjL-VGp46TThoiBCcPLRhgX25ASw6SNwCUucL4alSTxJKtW2MI2hyzh9c/s200/Zach+%2526+Casey+w-Nick+Powers+in+Arrow.com+Interview+1.PNG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casey (our left), Zach (middle), and Nick (our right), discussing Poison Arrow in the video above.</td></tr>
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<b>Video 2) <a href="https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/videos/poisonarrowatbattlebots" target="_blank">In-the-pits interview</a> of Zach & Casey with the ground bot, Poison Arrow, myself with the fire drone, Buzz, and Hana Goff with the controllable tail "mini-bot."</b><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/-0ZTfc8rFOk/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-0ZTfc8rFOk?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSpqzTm9zS99dyUrAyCw3Ub7c4FTY8nG90TaMC4oBsoh-yHyfTjM7okmwKuhGwijYiyvjwgfEcck1i7CXDXTKAF1s-xMqrI_Xj_rcmVrH0zNtabk2QXBwBCitTfY6zYDyBOGqcgMICy9t/s1600/Zach+%2526+Casey+w-Nick+Powers+in+Arrow.com+Interview+2-in+the+pits.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSpqzTm9zS99dyUrAyCw3Ub7c4FTY8nG90TaMC4oBsoh-yHyfTjM7okmwKuhGwijYiyvjwgfEcck1i7CXDXTKAF1s-xMqrI_Xj_rcmVrH0zNtabk2QXBwBCitTfY6zYDyBOGqcgMICy9t/s200/Zach+%2526+Casey+w-Nick+Powers+in+Arrow.com+Interview+2-in+the+pits.PNG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick, from Arrow.com (our left), Casey (middle) and Zach (right) discussing Poison Arrow in the pits at BattleBots<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_7Vp1XsyCGPBx1HVAg0ETrGIMbtd8BK1FjVwU1s4vXqiBjVxpCz9vyBNfxpOJgPG-TXhava4cfaEoA6_aft8tHSv8StDJhR5e4UXu_PbNkWEQUYmUwCLUZgJv1_JnW6_f2icaQjeLEb9U/s1600/Screenshot_2016-05-12-18-45-40.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_7Vp1XsyCGPBx1HVAg0ETrGIMbtd8BK1FjVwU1s4vXqiBjVxpCz9vyBNfxpOJgPG-TXhava4cfaEoA6_aft8tHSv8StDJhR5e4UXu_PbNkWEQUYmUwCLUZgJv1_JnW6_f2icaQjeLEb9U/s200/Screenshot_2016-05-12-18-45-40.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Two photos above: Nick, from Arrow.com (left) and me (right) discussing Buzz in the pits</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmrsB_pu8rA0UyqMcMkjYFXZocGzKXu1gXQa_K-Sizb2t52HxMLgMVPKDL2wkLMuAyYlMff_92tXVGoyY3O8LmX2J9U86ewseLLZWMaERTYxf6PUmkHmIKygvcqSD_PgH1_ifn9d4R0mm/s1600/Hana+Goff+w-tail+in+interview+2.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmrsB_pu8rA0UyqMcMkjYFXZocGzKXu1gXQa_K-Sizb2t52HxMLgMVPKDL2wkLMuAyYlMff_92tXVGoyY3O8LmX2J9U86ewseLLZWMaERTYxf6PUmkHmIKygvcqSD_PgH1_ifn9d4R0mm/s200/Hana+Goff+w-tail+in+interview+2.PNG" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Hana (our left) and Nick, from Arrow.com (right) discussing Poison Arrow's RC tail in the pits</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</ol>
<b>Video 3) Remote-controlled tail:</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bCGgOsThQ2s/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bCGgOsThQ2s?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
<b>Video 4) Fire-drone flame testing, with a flip at the end:</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/WmNHHz-MGHk/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WmNHHz-MGHk?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
<h2>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQJ6RZUwb-Lx-oBoUFoDI628yxWYAnCPs1CBR3B7gs7SwIZWvkA0yAzQ_S0yeIMfI_rXHlMbZxOzTeXiV5DnppoE1ckF84PspR6jVeVddleIuXDZs62WWPuvwLsJ7ridIw6-D9-f5Edv0/s1600/20160514_193839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQJ6RZUwb-Lx-oBoUFoDI628yxWYAnCPs1CBR3B7gs7SwIZWvkA0yAzQ_S0yeIMfI_rXHlMbZxOzTeXiV5DnppoE1ckF84PspR6jVeVddleIuXDZs62WWPuvwLsJ7ridIw6-D9-f5Edv0/s200/20160514_193839.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-size: x-large;">
Meet the Team:</span></h2>
Team Caustic Creations consists of the following team members:<br />
<ul>
<li>Zach Goff (team captain)</li>
<li>Casey Kuhns</li>
<li>Hana Goff</li>
<li>Ian McMahon</li>
<li>and myself, Gabriel Staples</li>
</ul>
<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8ayVO22aQuTEbPtqLkVW4SpO0KXmZ7-XeFryYCCbdhd2sf11tlCn2vylRyKDxYizriKT70SRPpBnfNvxcpjNyv2GGZ0gRiyRDp6GZP-e8hmxx-xh1yh2dbiB3xuC1HUDiYQW43Ua9Qs3/s1600/13243993_10153567541516406_3615227553416196200_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV8ayVO22aQuTEbPtqLkVW4SpO0KXmZ7-XeFryYCCbdhd2sf11tlCn2vylRyKDxYizriKT70SRPpBnfNvxcpjNyv2GGZ0gRiyRDp6GZP-e8hmxx-xh1yh2dbiB3xuC1HUDiYQW43Ua9Qs3/s320/13243993_10153567541516406_3615227553416196200_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caustic Creations Team Photo<br />
Left to Right: Casey, Ian, Gabriel, Hana, Zach<br />
Robots: Buzz (10 lb drone/air support, top), Poison Arrow<br />
(232 lb ground bot killing machine, bottom)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Zach and Casey were the main bot ("Poison Arrow") builders, while I built the fire drone ("Buzz"), Hana did a lot of the painting, logos, T-shirts, and general design help, and Ian helped out with the start of the main bot build and provided lots of great pit support at the event. Many thanks to Ian for driving me around at the event, putting up with my late-night programming and "oscilloscoping" in our hotel room, and driving me around, filming, and supporting me while I practiced flying and tuning the drone. He and Hana also helped me build and prepare some spare parts for Buzz in the pits. </div>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><br /></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Random Pictures:</span></h2>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTjeEMV8Wi70x5uw4NqjMiGaEJL7UkMWmO2fhtj_OcfIzXB6sbuwq7L1rSvPEjcjCftITrI3_i31qfpS8ULLy9_sqpDzuuNDYkI1bBzd60441WEMrzTX3eXXZRV05jBVRACiv1K_5vTgDe/s1600/Ian+working.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTjeEMV8Wi70x5uw4NqjMiGaEJL7UkMWmO2fhtj_OcfIzXB6sbuwq7L1rSvPEjcjCftITrI3_i31qfpS8ULLy9_sqpDzuuNDYkI1bBzd60441WEMrzTX3eXXZRV05jBVRACiv1K_5vTgDe/s200/Ian+working.png" width="182" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ian McMahon working in the pits</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf17zRwexMEviN2F61mXlfTLzmiFTc2AINt75QEETElZmW6OqvMmH7q1dic8x6a3HB8fGAPTtgEHLG0GXpny7pjsxVSUeZFNu6qhxJ7k4fWzDKVswJwVmK07i_VfG_caLY2l-UDB8ooTLg/s1600/20160418_225006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf17zRwexMEviN2F61mXlfTLzmiFTc2AINt75QEETElZmW6OqvMmH7q1dic8x6a3HB8fGAPTtgEHLG0GXpny7pjsxVSUeZFNu6qhxJ7k4fWzDKVswJwVmK07i_VfG_caLY2l-UDB8ooTLg/s320/20160418_225006.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting cozy with Buzz</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPyRjdpWbXOx4FNBtXtUVLRcps5pMnKXB6bARiV0HkoROhH1ANcldVr5VQVgPM6b0IYJ36I1EEro24cteIncmwH168DTICtQ8ia19NBKM4SdV_ydpOI3Jg5aZOwujQ8R7sjBysuKQNst6n/s1600/20160423_133958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPyRjdpWbXOx4FNBtXtUVLRcps5pMnKXB6bARiV0HkoROhH1ANcldVr5VQVgPM6b0IYJ36I1EEro24cteIncmwH168DTICtQ8ia19NBKM4SdV_ydpOI3Jg5aZOwujQ8R7sjBysuKQNst6n/s320/20160423_133958.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting with our bots (Poison Arrow and detached tail, left, Buzz, right)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouIM3FzAeHSNtmnnQf7ElAYGUoZodGnAPdyU70EyqcPC3nGgysciPNt4I1XbUgtxnlV1QnwKW83seOploutLIecc587RfpIIj-xzQQzL2aUQmUijSn3LTeXY1tkU1eftNYVdGsRMNUw7Q/s1600/20160422_152514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouIM3FzAeHSNtmnnQf7ElAYGUoZodGnAPdyU70EyqcPC3nGgysciPNt4I1XbUgtxnlV1QnwKW83seOploutLIecc587RfpIIj-xzQQzL2aUQmUijSn3LTeXY1tkU1eftNYVdGsRMNUw7Q/s320/20160422_152514.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me in the pits</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>So, watch us on TV! <strike>If we are able to get </strike>our T-shirts on the <a href="http://store.battlebots.com/" target="_blank">BattleBots store</a>, buy some to support us. <span style="font-size: large;">(<a href="http://store.battlebots.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=125_179" target="_blank">A modified version of the T-shirt below is on the BattleBots store now, here!</a>)</span> Thanks for reading and watching, and hopefully we'll be out again next year for BattleBots Season 3! </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mpc9DWqhS94/Vt8PuepY1XI/AAAAAAAAkSM/w5Q8UqUP15EUAv16mRR2vY8ZswbHAkZdACKgB/s1600/2016-03-08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mpc9DWqhS94/Vt8PuepY1XI/AAAAAAAAkSM/w5Q8UqUP15EUAv16mRR2vY8ZswbHAkZdACKgB/s400/2016-03-08.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice work on the T-shirts, Hana!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bd0xmOnK3T4/Vv1J-hX1f4I/AAAAAAAAmj8/tvOWlIZhYSAmsRYZErod93Ci0-Mr_4vhQCKgB/s1600/2016-03-31.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bd0xmOnK3T4/Vv1J-hX1f4I/AAAAAAAAmj8/tvOWlIZhYSAmsRYZErod93Ci0-Mr_4vhQCKgB/s200/2016-03-31.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And she did a great job on the stickers here above and below too!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKO4LF2NpPBWURA0PWCqU24eYd2_92CoooomuRl1HakyOSApNrcAA7KgB9o2upGSPSDVXZq4dl4ajaWcyWGNgVU_zxamgA0lIU3M83qlQyf0tMe9SgecBYj7IjJqUsOhcosCkpUdNPFUPL/s1600/20160514_193839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKO4LF2NpPBWURA0PWCqU24eYd2_92CoooomuRl1HakyOSApNrcAA7KgB9o2upGSPSDVXZq4dl4ajaWcyWGNgVU_zxamgA0lIU3M83qlQyf0tMe9SgecBYj7IjJqUsOhcosCkpUdNPFUPL/s640/20160514_193839.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Individual and team stickers all laid out together fancy-like. Each person on the team has their own personalized sticker. Pretty cool I think. Casey thinks so too. :)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
END<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-49442361324390974772016-03-18T09:53:00.002-07:002016-04-24T20:16:22.088-07:00Building for BattleBots - with Team Caustic CreationsBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 18 March 2016<br />
Last Updated: 24 March 2016 <span style="font-size: x-small;">- added BattleBots 2015 Championship sample video</span><br />
<br />
<u><b>A Few Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2015/06/arduino-quick-tip-io-pin-overvoltage-protection-w-single-resistor.html" target="_blank">100+V Arduino/AVR Microcontroller Input/Output (I/O) Pin Over-Voltage Protection Using a *Single* Resistor!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html" target="_blank">Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
</ul>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Our ground robot & drone (multicopter) builds for BATTLEBOTS: follow us on social media via the links below!</span></b><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
(What is BattleBots? - here is a sample video below of the championships from last year)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/tGl4yt_qmCg/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tGl4yt_qmCg?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
So, aside from my IR remote-controlled car horn/siren project, about which I posted a couple sample videos previously, I have undertaken a new project recently: building an air vehicle for the hit robot fighting TV series, <a href="http://www.battlebots.com/" target="_blank">BattleBots</a>, which will be hosted by ABC this year. You can see a sample episode above, which is the final championship fight from BattleBots 2015. I was not a part of that event. For BattleBots 2016, however, I will be participating by building a secondary, fighting drone/air vehicle which will fly and <a href="https://www.facebook.com/CausticCreations/videos/1058115720915501/" target="_blank">shoot fire</a>.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
(see some of my preliminary flamethrowing trials below)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/CausticCreations/videos/1058115720915501/" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fVXajRUzeArsOFPJ1xyk1ePfWJrOYDdk_NsSY4AVgDiRJC-QAi_-APfwww6t_ScUcy0Guw5o5ZDJ3M8kuxE5L811VjM9_S75cxM4xmPl3DF5Kyv91cCrO3ZqeiLBY8HBXnG3G6gQubfw/s200/20160314_235908.mp4" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<center>
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It will be the aerial side of a two-vehicle fighting duo. Other individuals on our team are building the ground vehicle, which will be the main robot with the real punch. It has some serious fighting power. The air vehicle is more of an air distraction, and will perhaps be able to counter other air vehicles, and maybe cause some damage to the enemy ground vehicle. It is the less-powerful of our two robots, as it will weigh <b><10 lbs</b>, whereas the ground vehicle will be approx. <b>240 lbs</b>. Here is a preliminary shot of a test air vehicle below. I still have a lot of work to do to get something like this battle-ready!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjiHCKrNJChogSlIT8lecmHH5UdYn_0sg0fLQ6kfhWw3LiQcJnBQTXOk0CdHDV_Qg7oN2iaOFeU2IR9nf3ShCpSSMd71sll1fOOvlAVsrfRH5bw8Aegu_1I1MH9OocA1Y-tuaNaDlV7OR8/s1600/20160312_214732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjiHCKrNJChogSlIT8lecmHH5UdYn_0sg0fLQ6kfhWw3LiQcJnBQTXOk0CdHDV_Qg7oN2iaOFeU2IR9nf3ShCpSSMd71sll1fOOvlAVsrfRH5bw8Aegu_1I1MH9OocA1Y-tuaNaDlV7OR8/s400/20160312_214732.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></a></div>
I have posted a few sample videos and photos throughout the build process, and will continue to do so, as will other members of our team <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/CausticCreations/" target="_blank">Caustic Creations</a></b>.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">You can follow our progress and builds via the following links & social media sites:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Facebook</b>: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/CausticCreations/" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/CausticCreations/</a></span></li>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Twitter: </span></b></li>
<ul>
<li><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://twitter.com/CausticCreate" target="_blank">https://twitter.com/CausticCreate</a> and</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="https://twitter.com/eRCaGuy" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">https://twitter.com/eRCaGuy</span></a></div>
</li>
</ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="line-height: 16px;"><b>Instagram</b>: </span><span style="line-height: 100%;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/ercaguy/" target="_blank">https://www.instagram.com/ercaguy/</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Team Webpage (in the works)</b>: <a href="http://www.teamcausticcreations.com/" target="_blank">http://www.teamcausticcreations.com/</a></span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMYVDczZ4IifESQd8qhufuYMWmzD9Cbxo_mb9jrLbuuiDi_ydWTuZZzdYkRZmF7TCwhW_upXcQfjjEXccrE591oE2FInGASCVjHyuNa52VLUKqI6W1pbEFsabYmYES5fWARTgs6ryILyH9/s1600/20160312_175004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMYVDczZ4IifESQd8qhufuYMWmzD9Cbxo_mb9jrLbuuiDi_ydWTuZZzdYkRZmF7TCwhW_upXcQfjjEXccrE591oE2FInGASCVjHyuNa52VLUKqI6W1pbEFsabYmYES5fWARTgs6ryILyH9/s320/20160312_175004.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
END<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-68141645934884436932016-01-17T21:31:00.001-08:002016-01-25T17:35:25.881-08:00ContributeBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 16 Jan 2016<br />
Last Updated: 18 Jan 2016<br />
<br />
<b><u>Related Pages</u></b>:<br />
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END<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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Written: 16 Jan 2016<br />
Last Updated: 2 Oct. 2017<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">History (newest on top):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">2 Oct. 2017 - link to source code added</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">16 Jan 2016 - first written</span><br />
<br />
<u><b>A Few Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2015/06/arduino-quick-tip-io-pin-overvoltage-protection-w-single-resistor.html" target="_blank">100+V Arduino/AVR Microcontroller Input/Output (I/O) Pin Over-Voltage Protection Using a *Single* Resistor!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html" target="_blank">Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
</ul>
So, a few days ago I got a car horn *and* a car audio speaker to play a siren sound!<br />
<br />
In these two videos, I do a quick desktop demo of playing a siren sound through first a "fixed frequency" car horn, and then through a standard car audio speaker, rated at 120W peak, 60W RMS, and 4 Ohms. Using an Arduino, a relatively simple, custom transistor-based amplifier circuit, and the Arduino core tone() function in my code, I drive the horn and speaker to play a siren sound by sinusoidally varying the driving frequency. I also show the signal to the devices on an oscilloscope, and briefly discuss and hook up a Schottky diode in a "snubber diode" configuration to knock down the inductance-induced voltage spikes created each time the square wave has a falling edge.<br />
<br />
First, watch the "fixed frequency" type car horn play a varying-frequency siren sound:<br />
<br />
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Next, watch the car audio speaker get driven by the same Arduino, code, amplifier circuit, and 3S LiPo battery. It is *much* louder!<br />
<br />
<b>SOURCE CODE: <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/10/arduino-sine-wave-siren-code.html" target="_blank">http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/10/arduino-sine-wave-siren-code.html</a></b><br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-71404387632619126682015-06-11T20:50:00.000-07:002015-09-02T18:50:21.877-07:00100+V Arduino/AVR Microcontroller Input/Output (I/O) Pin Over-Voltage Protection Using a *Single* Resistor!By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 11 June 2015<br />
Last Updated: 2 Sept. 2015<br />
Update History (newest on top):<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Added "Upfront Caveat", 2 Sept. 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Added lots of extra info, & the Figures, 21 July 2015</span><br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li>Click the <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/p/site-maptable-of-contents.html" target="_blank">Table of Contents link</a> above --> then look under the "Arduino" heading</li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2015/05/quick-tip-comprehensive-list-of-helpful.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: A Comprehensive List of Helpful Arduino Learning Links - New!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/using-arduino-unos-built-in-16-bit-adc.html" target="_blank">Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 21-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/ercaguybuttonreader-library-for-arduino.html" target="_blank">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader Library for Arduino</a> - Debounce and read the current button state, & most recent action ("just pressed" or "just released") easily! </li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter Library</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/05/a-few-tips-tricks-arduinos-pcb-etchant.html" target="_blank">A Few Tips & Tricks: Arduinos, PCB Tricopter Frames, Home-made Acid Etchant for Copper</a></li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafnst7JkNRfnxvg6cu_nbJtDk3QecSnNMaLawNuEnEyXEmQk3ZM5gOsRKXrVX8QcHOx7isikX6AbaSRjY-xmKogFyzCseyYwxTEm-yBCL_NrvhyphenhyphentpqV6O3Y0saVmxpJbnQJ4fdIFht3pe/s1600/10k+resistor.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjafnst7JkNRfnxvg6cu_nbJtDk3QecSnNMaLawNuEnEyXEmQk3ZM5gOsRKXrVX8QcHOx7isikX6AbaSRjY-xmKogFyzCseyYwxTEm-yBCL_NrvhyphenhyphentpqV6O3Y0saVmxpJbnQJ4fdIFht3pe/s200/10k+resistor.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
Here I present a pin protection method for very high and low input voltages that I learned from Atmel themselves, in their Application Note "<a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2508.pdf" target="_blank">AVR182: Zero Cross Detector</a>."<br />
<br />
If you've read my article titled "<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a>" you know that the pin input voltage limits are as follows:<br />
<b>Maximum Input Voltage:</b> <b>Vcc + 0.5V</b>, or <b>+5.5V</b> for a 5V Arduino<br />
<b>Minimum Input Voltage: </b><b>-0.5V</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>However, if you simply add a single resistor in series with any input pin, you can protect it against higher or lower input voltages, with some caveats!</b><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: lime;">Ex: <b>simply by placing a 10k resistor in series on an input pin, you get input voltage protection up to +15.5VDC and down to -10.5VDC.</b> With a <b>100k</b> resistor you get input voltage protection up to <b>+105.5VDC</b>, and down to <b>-100.5VDC</b>. Keep reading to learn more.</span><br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">WARNING: </span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: red;">-FOR YOUR PERSONAL SAFETY, WHEN USING THIS TECHNIQUE, I RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO NOT WORK WITH INPUT VOLTAGES GREATER THAN APPROXIMATELY <u>100VDC</u> OR <u>20VAC</u> UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND HAVE READ ALL OF MY WARNINGS HEREIN, INCLUDING THE ADDENDUM AT THE END OF THIS ARTICLE. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: red;">-REGARDLESS OF WHAT INPUT VOLTAGES YOU ARE USING, YOU AND ONLY YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR PERSONAL EXPERIMENTS, PRODUCTS, DESIGN DECISIONS, AND THE SAFETY OF YOU AND YOUR CUSTOMERS.</span></b><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Upfront Caveat:</span></b><br />
Though this technique may work, and be good for home-projects or quick prototyping, better techniques are recommended, especially if you are producing a commercial product. Redundancy is your friend. Using external, rated clipping diodes is certainly a better option than relying on the internal, integrated and unrated ones. <b>For better protection techniques, including using *external* clipping diodes for redundancy, and adding transient voltage suppression, read more here: <a href="http://www.scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/" target="_blank">Science Prog: Using current limiting resistors on AVR I/O pins</a>. Also see the <a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2508.pdf" target="_blank">AVR182 Application Note</a> for references to additional sources to read in order to add extra pin protection.</b><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Background & Concept:</span></b><br />
<a name='more'></a>Figure 1 below is a schematic showing how the external resistor you add to an input pin on an Atmel AVR microcontroller (ex: Arduino Duemilanove, Uno, Nano, Pro Mini, Mega, Leonardo, Pro Micro, etc) combines with the internal clipping diodes to safely clip the input voltage to within safe operating limits.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmE21oLjTnVsEJXBxrQWa_IZjQ1hTw-3fL9et5weT7xUinjS_fy-errVUQgXGYtiswmbmKwIddZgKtuTK6KMGRFiCFFONxtyD2_foXiYlYXAH0z0dXeNUbOQyXrNOlirYltix5VgRy3n03/s1600/avr_io_current_limiting_resistor.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmE21oLjTnVsEJXBxrQWa_IZjQ1hTw-3fL9et5weT7xUinjS_fy-errVUQgXGYtiswmbmKwIddZgKtuTK6KMGRFiCFFONxtyD2_foXiYlYXAH0z0dXeNUbOQyXrNOlirYltix5VgRy3n03/s1600/avr_io_current_limiting_resistor.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Figure 1: Schematic of clipping circuit on an Atmel AVR microcontroller (mcu) input pin, constructed via a single, user-added external resistor and the internal clipping diodes in the mcu. (Image source: <a href="http://www.scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/" target="_blank">Science Prog: Using current limiting resistors on AVR I/O pins</a>) </b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>What is clipping? </b><br />
Clipping simply means to "cut off," or "clip" off the excess high and low voltages, without otherwise changing the shape of the waveform. Figure 2 below shows how the circuit above clips an input voltage to be within safe operating limits for an AVR microcontroller. For more on clipping circuits, see the sources at the bottom of this article.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Figure 2: Sinusoidal AC input voltage (left) vs its clipped output voltage (right), when clipped by an external resistor plus the internal clipping diodes in an AVR microcontroller (Source: I have created this image by modifying images from <a href="http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode-clipping-circuits.html" target="_blank">here</a>).</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For low (<b>< approx. 100VDC or 20VAC</b>) input voltages, a single, properly-sized resistor (providing adequate margin of safety for voltage spikes), should suffice. <b>However, for better protection techniques, including using *external* clipping diodes for redundancy, and adding transient voltage suppression, read more here: <a href="http://www.scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/" target="_blank">Science Prog: Using current limiting resistors on AVR I/O pins</a>. Also see the <a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2508.pdf" target="_blank">AVR182 Application Note</a> for references to additional sources to read in order to add extra pin protection.</b><br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;"><b>Mains (wall outlet) zero-cross detector:</b></span><br />
<b><span style="color: red;">WARNING: EXPERT USE ONLY. MAINS VOLTAGE CAN CAUSE DEATH, THE CIRCUIT BELOW IS MINIMALISTIC AND UNISOLATED, AND ADDITIONAL PROTECTION BEYOND WHAT IS SHOWN IN FIGURE 3 IS RECOMMENDED.</span></b><br />
<br />
For <b>mains (wall outlet) AC inputs</b> which you want to clip to be within the safe operating limits of -0.5V to Vcc + 0.5V, Atmel recommends using <b>two resistors</b>. Refer to the figure below. Here, Atmel shows using one <b>1Mohm resistor on the mains "hot" line</b>, and one <b>1Mohm resistor on the mains GND line</b>. <span style="color: red;"><b>WARNING</b>: in actuality, a single 1/4W 1M resistor is insufficient, as they are not rated for high voltage drops. Instead, it is recommended to use multiple resistors in series to distribute a portion of the large voltage drop across each resistor. Ex: using 5 x 200k resistors in series, to make the equivalent of a single 1M resistor, is far safer than a single 1M resistor. Again, standard 1/4W resistors are not rated for high voltage drops like this (see this <a href="http://www.avrfreaks.net/comment/1616536#comment-1616536" target="_blank">AVRFreaks forum thread here</a> for more info).</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjCKrSI4YPJW03TK6BsKgn3X1YcQ7CUIj4zgtSwiT4MT6X3-SGvJ51dG_WgB_vX_yEFH3OD8ZZS5JfywrcCdnZcU4sfWf6gmqbvL45aYytoNtB5UUzamXQVgk8Nb-IbkkGtZhXS9CrTq5L/s1600/AVR182+Fig+1.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjCKrSI4YPJW03TK6BsKgn3X1YcQ7CUIj4zgtSwiT4MT6X3-SGvJ51dG_WgB_vX_yEFH3OD8ZZS5JfywrcCdnZcU4sfWf6gmqbvL45aYytoNtB5UUzamXQVgk8Nb-IbkkGtZhXS9CrTq5L/s400/AVR182+Fig+1.PNG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Figure 3: Zero cross detector using AVR (Image source: <a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2508.pdf" target="_blank">AVR182: Zero Cross Detector</a>, Figure 1, pg. 2)</b><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b>WARNING: WORKING WITH MAINS (WALL) VOLTAGE IS </b><b style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"><u>NOT</u> FOR BEGINNERS. </b><b style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">THIS SCHEMATIC DOES <u>NOT</u> ISOLATE MAINS VOLTAGE FROM YOUR MICROCONTROLLER. IF THE RESISTORS EVER FAILED, YOU COULD HAVE A <u>LIVE, DEADLY</u> VOLTAGE ON YOUR BOARD. USE GREAT CAUTION.</b></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Using the <b>1M resistors</b> as shown above gets you input voltage protection to <b>+/-1000VDC</b>, which is enough to connect 220V AC mains directly to an Arduino input pin to do zero-cross detection for high-power/low noise relay-switching on AC lines! Writing a zero-cross detection algorithm lets you switch the relay when the AC power is at ~0VDC, thereby reducing the wear-and-tear on your mechanical relay, and protecting the circuit from potentially harmful inductance-induced high voltage spikes which occur during high-current non-zero-cross power switching.<br />
<span style="color: red;"><b>WARNING: MAINS (WALL OUTLET) VOLTAGES CAN BE DEADLY. DO *NOT* WORK WITH HIGH VOLTAGES LIKE THIS UNLESS YOU ARE COMFORTABLE WITH WHAT YOU ARE DOING. FOR HIGH VOLTAGES, ADDITIONAL VOLTAGE PROTECTION TECHNIQUES ARE RECOMMENDED FOR THE ARDUINO MICROCONTROLLER PINS AS WELL, BEYOND THE SIMPLE ONE OR TWO RESISTOR TECHNIQUE DESCRIBED HERE</b></span>. See the <a href="http://www.scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/" target="_blank">ScienceProg</a> and <a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2508.pdf" target="_blank">AVR182</a> references at the end of this article for more info.<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Concept Summary:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span>
<b>Refer back to Figures 1, 2, and 3 above. Internal diodes on each AVR (Atmel microcontroller chip) clip** </b><b>the input voltage to -0.5V on the low end and to Vcc + 0.5V (+5.5V for a 5V Arduino) on the high end. The resistor you add in series protects the internal clipping** diodes from overcurent, which is anything >1mA for an AVR microcontroller (see the ScienceProg & Atmel references below; the 1mA clipping diode limit is stated on pg. 4 of <a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2508.pdf" target="_blank">AVR182</a>).</b> Use larger resistors for greater voltage protection. Beware that the larger you go, however, the more of a low-pass RC filter the resistor in series becomes, in conjunction with the capacitance of the pin. So, if you're trying to measure a 50kHz input frequency using the included demo in my <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Timer2_Counter library</a>, you shouldn't be using a huge resistor, such as 1Mohm, as it will attenuate the high frequency.<br />
<br />
<i>**Note: the AVR182 application note says "clamp," and calls these internal diodes "clamping diodes," but I think the proper term in this case is actually "clip" and "clipping diodes," so I may be using these terms somewhat interchangeably in this article. See references below to read more about clipping and clamping.</i><br />
<br />
This is seriously cool. Again, the below references are really good. AVR182 application note discusses how to find the zero-voltage crossing by connecting mains voltage (110V US, 220V Europe) directly to an Arduino input pin through a 1M resistor. Though this technique is not recommended as the only protection when dealing with very high voltages, it is fascinating how easy it is to provide simple, lower voltage overvoltage protection on input pins. The ScienceProg reference is where I first discovered this technique, and it also provides additional protection techniques I recommend you take a look at.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Extra Info:</span></b><br />
<br />
The internal clipping/"clamping diodes," per <a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2508.pdf" target="_blank">AVR182</a>, have <b>max current capability of 1 mA</b> (pg 4 of the document). Also note that AC voltage is an RMS ("Root Mean Square") value, so to calculate the sinusoidal DC voltage peaks of an AC voltage, you must multiply the VACrms value by sqrt(2). Ex: 120 x sqrt(2) = 120 x 1.4142 = 169.7. Therefore, <b>110VAC</b> has sinusoidal peaks at <b>+/-156VDC</b>, <b>120VAC</b> has peaks at <b>+/-170VDC</b>, and <b>220VAC</b> has peaks at <b>+/-311VDC</b>. <b>Again, the equation for sinusoidal DC peaks from AC sine wave is simply V_RMS_AC x sqrt(2)</b>.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Equations:</span></b><br />
<br />
The equation to find out what voltage protection you can get for a given resistor is as follows (assuming, per AVR182 pg2, that the forward voltage drop, Vf, across the internal clipping diode, is <b>0.5V</b>, and the maximum allowed clipping diode current is <b>1mA</b>):<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">Vmin_allowed = -(0.001*R + 0.5) [VDC]</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">Vmax_allowed = +(0.001*R + Vcc+0.5) [VDC]</span></b><br />
<b><span style="background-color: white;">VmaxAC_allowed = min(abs(Vmin_allowed),abs(Vmax_allowed))/sqrt(2) [VAC, for sinusoidal AC voltage]</span></b></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: blue;">If you are using a 5V Arduino, Vcc = 5V, so you get the following for Vmax: </span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="background-color: white; font-size: large;">Vmax_allowed = +(0.001*R + 5.5) [VDC]</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Example Calculations (for a 5V Arduino): </span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<ol>
<li>You are using a 10k resistor. </li>
<ol>
<li>Vmin_allowed = -(0.001 x 10000 + 0.5) = <b>-10.5V DC</b>. </li>
<li>Vmax_allowed = +(0.001 x 10000 + 5.5 = <b>+15.5V DC</b></li>
<li>VmaxAC_allowed = 10.5V/sqrt(2) = 10.5/1.4142 = <b>7.42V AC</b></li>
</ol>
<li>You are using a 1M resistor:</li>
<ol>
<li>Vmin_allowed = -(0.001 x 1e6 + 0.5) = <b>-1000.5V DC</b>. </li>
<li>Vmax_allowed = +(0.001 x 1e6 + 5.5 = <b>+1005.5V DC</b></li>
<li>VmaxAC_allowed = 1000.5/sqrt(2) = <b>707.5V AC</b></li>
<li><b><span style="color: red;">FINAL SAFETY WARNING: UNLESS YOU ARE AN EXPERT, HAVE HEEDED ALL OTHER PREVIOUS WARNINGS, AND KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, EVEN IF THIS CALCULATION SAYS YOUR RESISTOR VALUE IS ADEQUATE FOR A GIVEN VOLTAGE, DON'T PUT A VOLTAGE > ~<u>100VDC</u> OR <u>20VAC</u> ON ANY ARDUINO/MICROCONTROLLER PIN. For further information on electrocution, bodily resistances, hazardous currents, etc, see the "Additional Reading" links below.</span></b></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<br />
Happy super-easy-input-pin-overvoltage-protecting!<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">References:</span></b><br />
<ol>
<li>*****+<a href="http://www.scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/" target="_blank">ScienceProg - Using current limiting resistors on AVR I/O pins</a> - very useful!</li>
<li>*****<a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc2508.pdf" target="_blank">Atmel Application Note - AVR182: Zero Cross Detector</a> - very useful!</li>
<li><a href="https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&client=ubuntu#q=atmega328+clamping+diode" target="_blank">Google search for "atmega328 clamping diode"</a></li>
<li>Clipper circuits:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipper_(electronics)" target="_blank">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipper_(electronics)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode-clipping-circuits.html" target="_blank">http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode-clipping-circuits.html</a></li>
</ol>
<li>Clamping circuits:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clamper_(electronics)" target="_blank">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clamper_(electronics)</a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Additional Reading:</span></b><br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2012/apr/protecting-inputs-in-digital-electronics" target="_blank">Digi-Key: Protecting Inputs in Digital Electronics</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-3/ohms-law-again/" target="_blank">AllAboutCircuits.com - Chapter 3 - Electrical Safety</a></li>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock" target="_blank">Wikipedia - Electric Shock</a></li>
</ol>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Addendum:</span></b></div>
<span style="color: red;"><b>At what voltage is there a risk of electric shock?</b></span><br />
Based on my research and calculations, electric shock becomes a hazard above ~100VDC or 20VAC. Current kills. Current, however, is a function of voltage and resistance. V=I*R, where V=voltage, I=current and R=resistance. According to the Additional Reading sources [2] and [3] above, bodily resistance is a factor of many things, with three of the primary factors being skin wetness, contact area, and contact pressure. Human resistance from hand to hand can vary from approximately 1kOhm~1MOhm. With wet skin, a large contact area (ex: multiple fingers, or a whole hand, contacting an electrical surface), and a firm contact pressure, hand-to-hand resistance can be as low as 1kOhm. A DC voltage of 100V causes a current of 100mA through a 1k load, such as the human body in these conditions. An AC voltage of 20V causes a current of 20mA. According to [2], a <b>100mA DC current</b>, and a 60Hz <b>20mA AC current</b>, are both <b>approx. 1/5 of what is required to cause "possible heart fibrillation after 3 seconds."</b> <span style="color: blue;">Therefore, for the purposes of human safety from the possible electrocution hazard, I am considering the 1-resistor technique as shown in Figure 1 above to be acceptably safe, for my personal experimentation purposes, for input voltages below approximately <b>100VDC</b> or <b>20VAC</b></span>. <span style="color: red;">You can each draw your own conclusions and come to your own decisions. You must choose what level of risk is acceptable for you.</span><br />
<br />
END<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-91768377736620754562015-05-09T15:09:00.003-07:002015-06-11T19:35:27.577-07:00Quick Tip: A Comprehensive List of Helpful Arduino Learning LinksBy Gabriel Staples
Written: 9 May 2015<br />
Last Updated: 9 May 2015<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/p/site-maptable-of-contents.html" target="_blank">Website Table of Contents page</a> - do a "ctrl+f" to search for "arduino" on this page for many more articles</li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html#.VU6D_flVhHw" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/using-arduino-unos-built-in-16-bit-adc.html#.VN0pamjF-So" target="_blank">Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 21-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter Library</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIlv2MF4w6NZFHwXKABKPcqgPYJwN5AJT7oftlhqCbmbo6606evqiIl_tsuvQqf9bLxo35Wc1uu2VBTcs0GaJbEzGqjT1Oz4FJo-5UmeQwdkDdqBdOg57E8Ag89XWw7eKmVsZkFJVysmeH/s1600/720px-Arduino_Logo.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIlv2MF4w6NZFHwXKABKPcqgPYJwN5AJT7oftlhqCbmbo6606evqiIl_tsuvQqf9bLxo35Wc1uu2VBTcs0GaJbEzGqjT1Oz4FJo-5UmeQwdkDdqBdOg57E8Ag89XWw7eKmVsZkFJVysmeH/s200/720px-Arduino_Logo.svg.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
Over the past couple years I have been compiling the <b>Arduino learning links, reference pages, and resources, that I have found the most useful for my learning</b>. I keep this list updated, and regularly add to it. The list is found at the bottom of my article titled <b><span style="font-size: large;">"<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html#.VU6D_flVhHw" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a>."</span></b> Go there, scroll to the bottom, and you'll find the list.<br />
<br />
It currently contains the following sections:<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<ul>
<li>Arduino Starter Kits</li>
</ul>
<br />
...followed by links for....<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Beginner</span></b></li>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Intermediate</span></b></li>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Advanced</span></b></li>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Expert</span></b></li>
</ul>
<div>
<br />
...then...<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>A Few Great Arduino Libraries Worth Mentioning:</li>
<li>Other Inspiring Links</li>
</ul>
<div>
Happy learning!</div>
</div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-76094931508446442972015-03-17T18:21:00.002-07:002015-03-19T13:38:12.159-07:00Website MigratingBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 17 March 2015<br />
Updated: 19 March 2015<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Update: As of 19 March 2015, you should no longer be seeing the redirect page below, under any circumstances, no matter where you find a link to my site (whether in this site, on another site, or on a Google search). Old links should automatically redirect to the new domain. <b><span style="font-size: large;">Please notify me via the comments below this post if you still see the redirect page as shown below. Thanks!</span></b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">I am in the process of migrating this website from <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/</a> to a commercial domain: <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/" target="_blank">http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/</a>. Please be patient as I do so. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<span style="font-size: large;">As you click on links, including links to my website or articles that you may find in Google searches, you may be directed to redirect pages that look like this: </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnFfoB08A6T7YPjNDd_ZxghsIck91a7vkuIwUestawDZMSzBW84jm0IQxY-RBFuksWHHPUg9-D46A5jiZo7BLxkeTQ8TPe4T4jOWrYvozXxIOkIcvXIn0OBHMHBnbHHow88UfkmiMRsX4/s1600/20150317+-+Google+redirect+page.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnFfoB08A6T7YPjNDd_ZxghsIck91a7vkuIwUestawDZMSzBW84jm0IQxY-RBFuksWHHPUg9-D46A5jiZo7BLxkeTQ8TPe4T4jOWrYvozXxIOkIcvXIn0OBHMHBnbHHow88UfkmiMRsX4/s1600/20150317+-+Google+redirect+page.PNG" height="490" width="640" /></a></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">If you see these pages, simply click on the "yes" button (yes, it is safe to do so), and you will automatically be redirected to the page on the new domain. </span></b><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Thanks for your patience, and enjoy visiting this site!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Sincerely,</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Gabriel Staples</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Electric RC Aircraft Guy</span><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-10924992343662194972015-02-12T16:12:00.001-08:002017-10-10T09:40:47.255-07:00How To Use Basic HTML Text Formatting for Google Blogger Comments (add bold, hyperlinks, & italics to blog comments)By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 12 Feb. 2015<br />
Last Updated: 10 Oct. 2017<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">History (newest on top):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Added links to hostinger - 10 Oct. 2017 </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Misc. updates - 21 Oct. 2016</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Major overhaul of the table formatting - 25 April 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Added "entities" and additional clarification - 14 Feb. 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-Added screenshot of HTML-formatted comments - 21 Oct. 2016 </span><br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Site Map/Table of Contents</b> - link just added to the top of this website! See above.</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/using-arduino-unos-built-in-16-bit-adc.html#.VN0pamjF-So" target="_blank">Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 21-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html#.VN0pomjF-So" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Intro:</span></b><br />
<br />
I've been wondering how to put hyperlinks in blog comments for quite some time now, so I finally did a little research to find out how!<br />
<br />
Normally blog comments are plain text, but here's a sample screenshot of an HTML-formatted comment, just under this post, which I'm about to teach you how to do yourself.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OUTd0UyvU2wZIi5lw3v0X8Q3R7VoPgxwzfvLwykf5MCRjTPnoL6jCkTvtEya0e6DcZYiAXjjxUOnE3I4W8MPZHm-nhyphenhyphen6Fpzof0cfKCAbZC1TPSqnf02D4pooznK9ImfKFdWqbgUzswXg/s1600/HTML-formatted+blog+comment.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="329" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OUTd0UyvU2wZIi5lw3v0X8Q3R7VoPgxwzfvLwykf5MCRjTPnoL6jCkTvtEya0e6DcZYiAXjjxUOnE3I4W8MPZHm-nhyphenhyphen6Fpzof0cfKCAbZC1TPSqnf02D4pooznK9ImfKFdWqbgUzswXg/s640/HTML-formatted+blog+comment.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Read on.<br />
<br />
If you'd like to make your next comments at the bottom of an article a little more fancy, with <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html#.VN0pomjF-So" target="_blank">hyperlinks</a>, <b>bold</b>, or <i>italics</i>, for example, here's how! Feel free to practice your new skills in the comments below this article too, as scratch space to test your syntax.<br />
<br />
The following commands are accepted in Google Blogger comments:<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">HTML Commands ("tags"):</span></b><br />
<!--GS NOTES ABOUT TABLES!
-th = table header format (bold, centered)
-td = table data? format (regular font, left-aligned)
-tr = table row; this allows, for instance, the ability to set formatting parameters for an entire row all at once
-cellspacing greater than 0 creates the "double border" type cell effect
-to allow word-wrap on unbreakable lines, insert the special character ​ (Unicode Character 'ZERO WIDTH SPACE') periodically into the unbreakable line. Source: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/1147877/how-to-word-wrap-text-in-html
-->
<!--TABLE STYLE (goes at top of HTML code) [source: http://blogknowhow.com/2011/01/how-add-table-blogger-blogspot-post.html]-->
<style type="text/css">.nobrtable br { display: none }</style>
<!--TABLE 1-->
<!--TABLE CLASS NAME (for style formatting above)-->
<br />
<div class="nobrtable">
<!--MAIN TABLE FORMATTING-->
<br />
<table border="2" bordercolor="#000000" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="background-color: white; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<!--HEADER, WITH FORMATTING SPECS-->
<tr style="background-color: #0033ff; color: white; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-top: 5px; text-align: left; vertical-align: top;">
<th width="50%">Command ("tag")</th>
<th width="50%">Effect</th>
</tr>
<!--ROW 1-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td><b>...</b></td>
<td><b>Bold text</b></td>
</tr>
<!--ROW 2-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td><i>...</i></td>
<td><i>Italic text</i></td>
</tr>
<!--ROW 3-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td><span style="color: blue;"><a href="URL">NAME</a></span></td>
<td><span style="color: blue;">Creates a hyperlink named NAME, to website URL</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<br />
<a name='more'></a>Here are some examples:<br />
<br />
<!--TABLE 2-->
<!--TABLE CLASS NAME (for style formatting above)-->
<br />
<div class="nobrtable">
<!--MAIN TABLE FORMATTING-->
<br />
<table border="2" bordercolor="#000000" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="background-color: white; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<!--HEADER, WITH FORMATTING SPECS-->
<tr style="background-color: #0033ff; color: white; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-top: 5px; text-align: left; vertical-align: top;">
<th width="50%">Example Commands ("tags")</th>
<th width="50%">Effect</th>
</tr>
<!--ROW 1-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td>I think you <b>REALLY</b> need to learn how to do this!</td>
<td>I think you <b>REALLY</b> need to learn how to do this!</td>
</tr>
<!--ROW 2-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td>This is <i>really</i> neat!</td>
<td>This is <i>really</i> neat!</td>
</tr>
<!--ROW 3-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td>Referring back to your post here: <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html">http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html</a>...</td>
<td>Referring back to your post here: <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html</a>...</td>
</tr>
<!--ROW 4-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td style="word-wrap: break-word;">Referring back to your post <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html">here</a>...</td>
<td>Referring back to your post <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">here</a>...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<br />
Google Blogger comments, however, cannot accept all HTML formatting tags. Here are some examples of tags NOT accepted:<br />
<!--TABLE 3-->
<!--TABLE CLASS NAME (for style formatting above)-->
<br />
<div class="nobrtable">
<!--MAIN TABLE FORMATTING-->
<br />
<table border="2" bordercolor="#000000" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" style="background-color: white; width: 100%;">
<tbody>
<!--HEADER, WITH FORMATTING SPECS-->
<tr style="background-color: #0033ff; color: white; padding-bottom: 4px; padding-top: 5px; text-align: left; vertical-align: top;">
<th width="50%">NOT Accepted Commands ("tags")</th>
<th width="50%">Effect</th>
</tr>
<!--ROW 1-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td><u>...</u></td>
<td><u>Underline text</u></td>
</tr>
<!--ROW 2-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td><font size="3">...</font></td>
<td>Sets size of font, from 1 to 7</td>
</tr>
<!--ROW 3-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td><font color="green">...</font></td>
<td>Sets font color, using name or hex value</td>
</tr>
<!--ROW 4-->
<tr style="vertical-align: top;">
<td style="word-wrap: break-word;"><a href="URL"><img src="URL"></a></td>
<td>Creates an image/link</td>
</tr>
<!--TABLE END TAGS-->
</tbody></table>
</div>
<!--END OF TABLE 3-->
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: medium;"></span><br />
<hr />
<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US&adInstanceId=4550d352-b552-476b-b160-44f55adccaa7"></script><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span>
<br />
<hr />
<span style="font-size: medium;">
</span>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Special Characters (HTML "Entities"):</span></b><br />
<br />
You can also type special characters using HTML "entities", or special codes that begin with an ampersand (&) and end with a semicolon (;) and are used to represent printable characters, rather than to be part of HTML code syntax. Here are some examples:<br />
<br />
&#64; = at sign (@)<br />
&lt; = < ("lt" stand for "less than" sign)<br />
&gt; = > ("gt" stands for "greater than" sign)<br />
&Psi; = Ψ (Greek letter "psi")<br />
&ne; = ≠ ("not equal" sign)<br />
&sum; = ∑ (math sum indicator)<br />
<br />
Do NOT forget the semicolon at the end of the codes or else they won't work.<br />
For a full list of codes see <a href="http://www.freeformatter.com/html-entities.html" target="_blank">this page here, from FreeForMatter.com</a>. Notice how they have the entities broken up into categories, including the following:<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">ASCII Characters</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">ISO 8859-1 Characters</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">ISO 8859-1 Symbols</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">Math Symbols</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">Greek Letters</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #cc0000;">Miscellaneous HTML entities</span></b><br />
<br />
<b>Links to each of the categories are provided at the top of their page.</b> The math symbols, for instance, could prove very useful if you'd like to write a professional-looking math-intensive comment with proper formatting and symbols.<br />
<br />
<b><i>Additionally, sometimes you want to describe how to write a certain HTML code, without the website interpreting what you write in the comment AS the HTML code. </i></b>Here's how you'd do that, for example:<br />
<br />
Instead of writing: "<b>this is how to make bold</b>", which looks like: "<b>this is how to make bold</b>", you could write "&lt;b&gt;this is how to make bold&lt;/b&gt;", which looks like "<b>this is how to make bold</b>".<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">You Try It:</span></b><br />
<br />
If you'd like to practice these effects in the comments below, go ahead. Here's a block of text to copy and paste into the comments section to get you started:<br />
<br />
--------------------------------------------START----------------------------------------------<br />
I think you <b>REALLY</b> need to learn how to do this! (bold)<br />
This is <i>really</i> neat! (italics)<br />
<br />
Referring back to your post here: <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html">http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html</a>...<br />
<br />
Referring back to your post <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html">here</a>...<br />
<br />
<b>Special Characters:</b><br />
&#64; = at sign (@)<br />
&lt; = < ("lt" stand for "less than" sign)<br />
&gt; = > ("gt" stands for "greater than" sign)<br />
&Psi; = Ψ (Greek letter "psi")<br />
&ne; = ≠ ("not equal" sign)<br />
&sum; = ∑ (math sum indicator)<br />
<br />
<b>this is how to make bold</b> (this line is actually bold)<br />
<br />
&lt;b&gt;this is how to make bold&lt;/b&gt; (this line shows the syntax of how to write the HTML tag to make a line bold)<br />
--------------------------------------------END----------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Going Further with HTML:</span></b><br />
<br />
If you'd like to have a more thorough HTML cheat sheet in general, not just for the few HTML tags you can use in Google Blogger comments, I recommend you check out this cheat here: <a href="https://www.hostinger.com/tutorials/html-cheat-sheet" target="_blank">https://www.hostinger.com/tutorials/html-cheat-sheet</a>. There are a LOT of HTML learning resources online so also check out <a href="https://www.tutorialspoint.com/html/" target="_blank">TutorialsPoint.com</a> and others too. Hostinger just so happens to be one who reached out to me directly is all so I linked to them as one example.<br />
<br />
Also, if you use git or GitHub for version control of any source code you may write, here is a nice list of "Basic Git Commands" from Hostinger as well: <a href="https://www.hostinger.com/tutorials/basic-git-commands" target="_blank">https://www.hostinger.com/tutorials/basic-git-commands</a>.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">References:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.simplehtmlguide.com/cheatsheet.php" target="_blank">A Simple Guide to HTML - HTML Cheat Sheet</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.webmonkey.com/2010/02/html_cheatsheet/" target="_blank">webmonkey - HTML Cheatsheet</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.hyperlinkcode.com/make-hyperlink.php" target="_blank">http://www.hyperlinkcode.com/make-hyperlink.php</a> - How to Make a Hyperlink</li>
<li><a href="http://www.freeformatter.com/html-entities.html" target="_blank">HTML Entity List</a> - here is how to enter special characters using HTML entities; do NOT forget the semicolon (;) at the end or else it won't work!</li>
<li>(How to make tables) - <a href="http://blogknowhow.blogspot.com/2011/01/how-add-table-blogger-blogspot-post.html" target="_blank">http://blogknowhow.blogspot.com/2011/01/how-add-table-blogger-blogspot-post.html</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-7695303008238097672015-02-07T08:06:00.001-08:002015-02-07T08:27:05.749-08:00Q&A: Question About Over-discharged LiPo--How do I quantify the amount of damage done to the battery pack?By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 7 Feb 2015<br />
Last Updated: 7 Feb 2015<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html#.VNYpIWjF-So" target="_blank"><b>Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!</b></a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank"><b>Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</b></a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> <-- be sure to check out the various really useful Arduino-related links at the bottom of this post! They have helped me a ton.</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLIe2U6piKRzD822zRpYjAhVRGlcIrerqnMBRZjb02dPWLbp9hP4QY2oUEM-8KAqZnI5A8Us2KJrvuqmN7t2o7t4RYvTAEEvsIoFsbqqcTi5O0dJUzDKbw3_t2cWlFcNeI3PgR9DfupM7q/s1600/FliteTest+bench-top+battery+test.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLIe2U6piKRzD822zRpYjAhVRGlcIrerqnMBRZjb02dPWLbp9hP4QY2oUEM-8KAqZnI5A8Us2KJrvuqmN7t2o7t4RYvTAEEvsIoFsbqqcTi5O0dJUzDKbw3_t2cWlFcNeI3PgR9DfupM7q/s1600/FliteTest+bench-top+battery+test.PNG" height="217" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High-current bench-top battery test setup by FliteTest (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYkd6c6Gqyg#t=248" target="_blank">source: 4:08</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Question I Just Received:</span></b><br />
-from "Lakshman<br />
<b><br /></b>
"Hi Gabriel.<br />
I am referring to your post <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.sg/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html#.VNXv9mSUcp0" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.sg/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html#.VNXv9mSUcp0</a>.<br />
<br />
I accidentally discharged my battery to 2.8v/cell today due to a faulty lipo alarm. It did not go off at 3.6V while flying my tricopter and within a minute or so, the voltage dropped to 2.8v/cell. I recharged it back to 3.8v storage at 0.2A without any issues. This was before I read that article.<br />
<br />
How do I quantify the amount of damage done to the battery pack? I usually stop flying at or before ~80% discharge. Will it be a lousier battery after this incident?<br />
<br />
Thank you."<br />
<br />
Here's what I had to say...<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">My Answer:</span></b><br />
<br />
Lakshman,<br />
<br />
As an engineer, I'm trained to be thorough, so I'm assuming you want the long answer. Here goes:<br />
<br />
When you say 2.8V/cell, do you mean to say that your 3S LiPo (I'm guessing it was 3S) was down to 8.4V (avg of 2.8V/cell), or are you saying you checked the battery with a cell meter and the lowest cell was 2.8V? This is an important distinction. A 3S Lipo below ~10V or so, for instance, oftentimes can have vastly different cell voltages at this point because once a cell gets below ~3.6V, its voltage will very rapidly and steeply decrease for very small differences in remaining capacity (see chart below, from <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html#.VNYWsmjF-So" target="_blank">my Parallel Charging article</a>):<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsPuAFuk8fAjhzNx-mSJCTn74N_iWzmJ3WnO2riDXzvrSE28zSvWq_d6uSRPEcPOsU37mVg5k1ptUhtsuH1u87bgJl60kOOJUaN6E0x-nAL83I_75ijIowI-7F3rnUb0UUkDYq9_YsFtD/s1600/image006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsPuAFuk8fAjhzNx-mSJCTn74N_iWzmJ3WnO2riDXzvrSE28zSvWq_d6uSRPEcPOsU37mVg5k1ptUhtsuH1u87bgJl60kOOJUaN6E0x-nAL83I_75ijIowI-7F3rnUb0UUkDYq9_YsFtD/s1600/image006.jpg" height="353" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
In other words, a reasonably-well balanced 3S LiPo that is at 8.4V might actually have a cell at 2.1V, a cell at 3.1V, and a cell at 3.2V....rather than each cell at 2.8V.<br />
<br />
If your lowest cell did in fact only drop to 2.8V, I think the damage would probably be pretty minor. Keep using the battery and you may not even notice a difference in flight. If it dropped to 2.1V, for example, I think the damage would be more significant. You'd probably notice some difference in flight, and that cell might be the one to drain first in flight...ie: it's capacity might be diminished, and its internal resistance increased.<br />
<br />
<b>How do you check the health of a cell? </b><br />
When a cell is damaged it will perform different in one or both of these two key areas (they are actually coupled [related] too, though not the same thing): <br />
<ol>
<li>its useful capacity will be decreased. ie: it will have a reduced run-time.</li>
<li>its internal resistance, or "Equivalent Series Resistance," ESR, will be increased. This means the cell cannot output as much current or power, it will have a higher voltage drop under any given load, and it will produce more heat for any given current. </li>
</ol>
<div>
<b>Here are some techniques to check #1:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>You can simply check this by hovering your tricopter (in no-wind conditions, as wind increases lift and I suspect also increases hovering time) with a damaged battery vs an identical healthy battery. See how much the hovering time has decreased. This test assumes you use the exact same test vehicle at the exact same flying weight in both conditions, and that you are comparing identical batteries, and that the identical batteries performed equally well when new, and that you are performing identical flights. Ex: try doing a steady, no-wind, no acceleration hover for the whole flight. A decrease in hovering time is indicative of damage. </li>
<ul>
<li>If you want to calculate the capacity lost you will need to perform the flights with a current meter on the vehicle so that you can get an avg. current reading for the flight. You can then calculate the useful capacity in each battery as follows: <b><i>Capacity[Ah] = time[hrs] x Current[A]</i></b>. Ex: if your current meter says you pulled an avg of 13A, and your flight time was 15 min, then your capacity is 13A x 15min/60min/hr = 3.25Ahr = 3250mAh. <i>A battery is generally considered "bad" once its useful capacity has decreased to 80% of its original capacity</i>. Nevertheless, don't let this make you stop using the battery. Use the battery until it no longer flies your vehicle as you desire. I have some batteries down to ~60% useful capacity that still fly one of my (extremely overpowered) planes, so I still use them since it flies just fine with them.</li>
</ul>
<li>You can also check the capacity by using a charger to discharge and charge the battery. Check the mAh used during a full discharge. Nevertheless, unless your charger is discharging at a realistic flight-similar discharge rate (ex: 13A in the above scenario) the value given by your charger could be a gross overestimate of the battery's useful capacity. The more damaged a battery is (the higher its ESR), the more of an *over*estimate this method will give you, since a realistic in-flight voltage drop will not be produced during the test. Instead, try a bench-top test like Josh Bixler does here, so that you can produce a realistic in-flight-equivalent discharge current during the test (picture shown at top of this article): <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYkd6c6Gqyg" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYkd6c6Gqyg</a>.</li>
</ul>
<b>Here are some techniques to check #2:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Perform the above bench-top rapid-discharge test while monitoring the battery *temperature*. The higher the ESR of a battery, the more its temp will rise. <b>Don't let it rise over 140 deg C during discharge. </b></li>
<li>Perform an experiment to calculate the ESR. I'll let you google for this one. Make sure to use a realistic in-flight test current or else the ESR calc will not be realistic. Many modern chargers can test ESR, but they may do it at such a low test current that the reading may not be very useful. </li>
<li>Buy and use an ESR meter, such as this one (shown below-right): </li>
<ul><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKWBTGej5LlFJddM96grYraiD4MUqoQOnT6HotDwY2jCG4P9Kr-YZESdRauKzlx0vsx0njkLfLkQDd6AWgfVN9ug_vCYG7opYVUahaooBu7E7tBImGCA4fPsWHe_eF3pyN6DBcZvtUCsmP/s1600/Progressive+RC+ESR+meter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKWBTGej5LlFJddM96grYraiD4MUqoQOnT6HotDwY2jCG4P9Kr-YZESdRauKzlx0vsx0njkLfLkQDd6AWgfVN9ug_vCYG7opYVUahaooBu7E7tBImGCA4fPsWHe_eF3pyN6DBcZvtUCsmP/s1600/Progressive+RC+ESR+meter.jpg" height="200" width="165" /></a>
<li><a href="http://www.progressiverc.com/esr-meter.html" target="_blank">http://www.progressiverc.com/esr-meter.html</a> ($90)</li>
</ul>
<li>Notes:</li>
<ul>
<li>Remember, the higher the ESR of the battery, the worse the battery is. I have not, however, quantified what might be considered a "bad" ESR for any given-capacity battery. I'll let you decide what is "bad" by comparing to similar batteries you have.</li>
<li>Be careful about comparing ESR values between batteries of different labeled capacities. ESR will *decrease* as C-rating OR capacity *increases* for any given battery. This means that it is feasible that a an absolutely horrible high-capacity (high-mAh) LiPo could have a lower (better) ESR than a really good low-capacity (low-mAh) LiPo. This is because ESR is a function of both battery <u>capacity</u> (in mAh or Ah) and battery <u>C-rating</u>.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<b>You can also perform the tests above on a *single* cell at a time:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>If you want to check an individual cell, you can connect up to the balance lead. Cell 1's ground is the negative-most wire, and positive is wire 2. Cell 2's ground is wire 2, and positive is wire 3. Cell 3's ground is wire 3, and positive is wire 4, etc. <b><i>Warning though: just because you now know what the ground is for each cell, do NOT attempt to connect the grounds of each cell together, as of course this would be short-circuiting the battery. The cells are wires in series, so the grounds are NOT common.</i></b> Also keep in mind that the balance lead is not rated for high currents, so don't pull more than a few amps max through a balance lead, and monitor the lead itself for temperature (just feel it during discharge). If you pull too high a current and blow your lead, that's on you.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<b>Here is a technique to check #1 and #2 simultaneously (this is the best and most useful test, but also the hardest to do):</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Acquire and compare discharge curves of the batteries and/or individual cells. You can purchase equipment to do this, or you can custom-make something with a microcontroller platform such as Arduino. Plot and compare the results. You will be able to see total capacity *and* voltage drop/sag during discharge (indicative of ESR), of each battery or cell, throughout the whole discharge process. This is very useful. See the figure below for example. As discharge current increases, voltage sag increases too, as indicated by a *lower* discharge curve. <b>For any given <i>constant discharge current</i>, and if comparing multiple batteries of the same labeled capacity, the worse the battery is (ie: the higher the ESR/the lower the actual C-rating is) the lower the discharge curve will be on a plot such as the one below.</b></li>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Qws4uau5omxO2e0M-H-DIef9y5Rxz4Co47dImUg9aS3A6d_MqY_xUXLynFMo1Yl1o3kiizLtegkcimoedbj3BNiykuPj28VFSe7YCjvwigw1nvIBNQcVO5DiFw744y2MHhlldB2ZI9Pb/s1600/discharge_curves_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1Qws4uau5omxO2e0M-H-DIef9y5Rxz4Co47dImUg9aS3A6d_MqY_xUXLynFMo1Yl1o3kiizLtegkcimoedbj3BNiykuPj28VFSe7YCjvwigw1nvIBNQcVO5DiFw744y2MHhlldB2ZI9Pb/s1600/discharge_curves_1.jpg" height="353" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Discharge curves, showing capacity and voltage sag at various discharge rates (for more info, read here: <a href="http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t438903p1/" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<li>Some cheap chargers (<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html#.VNYnCWjF-So" target="_blank">see my article here for example</a>) or high-end chargers can even do datalogging during charge and discharge, but again you run into the problem of often-times not being able to do this for high (realistic flight condition) test currents, since chargers generally have very low maximum discharge rates.</li>
<li>Some power meters can do on-board datalogging too, and you can then download the data after a bench-top test, in order to obtain discharge curves similar to those shown above.</li>
</ul>
I hope you weren't looking for a super simple answer. Rarely with anything electronic or engineering-related is the answer super simple. If you ever get a super simple answer it simply means that a lot of assumptions were made. For the general public, this may be good enough, but the application and exact use would have to be known or assumed before-hand. The quality of a shorter answer would depend upon the accuracy of the assumptions made.<br />
<br />
Sincerely,<br />
<div>
<br />
Gabriel Staples<br />
<div>
ElectricRCAircraftGuy</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-58379083714481827432014-10-13T13:56:00.001-07:002020-06-07T17:56:01.169-07:00Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 5 March 2014<br />
Posted Here: 13 Oct. 2014<br />
Last Updated: 7 Feb. 2015<br />
-added Q&A section & link - 7 Feb. 2015<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li>[NEW!!] <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2015/02/quantifying-amt-of-damage-done-to-LiPo-battery-pack.html#.VNY9aWjF-So" target="_blank">Question About Over-discharged LiPo--How do I quantify the amount of damage done to the battery pack?</a></li>
<li> [NEW!] <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
</ul>
<b><u>Recommended Arduino Articles:</u></b><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/using-arduino-unos-built-in-16-bit-adc.html" target="_blank">Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 21-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter) (via eRCaGuy_NewAnalogRead library)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter Library</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/05/ercaguybuttonreader-library-for-arduino.html" target="_blank">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader Library for Arduino</a> - Debounce and read the current button or switch state, & most recent action ("just pressed" or "just released") easily!</li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> <-- be sure to check out the various really useful Arduino-related links at the bottom of this post! They have helped me a ton.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
Though I first posted this article on my <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Restoring-over-discharged-LiPo-Lithium-Polymer-bat/" target="_blank">Instructables page</a>, I decided to update it and repost it on my main website here in order to keep my articles more consolidated and easily maintained by myself. <i> From this point on, I will keep the most up-to-date version of this article right here, instead of on my Instructables page, so if you want the latest info, read here.</i> Don't forget to subscribe to receive an email whenever I post something new by clicking the subscribe link at the top-right of this page! I will never use your email addresses for spam.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi47bUwipDwCfGvO6ylCp3DtnAt8-tPxetu93NiAgpysm0Doh1NvOHe5PccHhBKyXP4W8T9sFT5Z9LA1NW0NqVBrt3yzpumq9Qq3-htNgNdSfvyFU09e0f9Ctfw7Sr_aPUeB_NERG0jnous/s1600/Battery+lost+in+a+plane+in+a+tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi47bUwipDwCfGvO6ylCp3DtnAt8-tPxetu93NiAgpysm0Doh1NvOHe5PccHhBKyXP4W8T9sFT5Z9LA1NW0NqVBrt3yzpumq9Qq3-htNgNdSfvyFU09e0f9Ctfw7Sr_aPUeB_NERG0jnous/s1600/Battery+lost+in+a+plane+in+a+tree.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A LiPo that self-discharged, while in my plane, hanging overnight in a tree. :(</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Intro:</h3>
LiPo batteries should never be discharged below <b>3.0V/cell</b>, or they may be permanently damaged. Many chargers don't even allow you to charge a LiPo battery that is below <b>2.5V/cell</b>. So, if you accidentally run your plane/car too long, you don't have your low voltage cutoff set properly in the ESC (Electronic Speed Controller), or you leave the power switch on, forget to unplug the LiPo, get your plane stuck overnight in a tree (the same tree, three separate times, for foolishly flying in areas too small because you are too excited to fly and it's almost dark), etc. etc., you may find yourself in a situation where you've discharged your LiPo down well below <b>3.0V/cell</b>. What do you do?<br />
<br />
Many people toss the LiPos in the trash. I don't. I restore them. Here's how.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<h3>
Background, Cautions, & Warnings:</h3>
<div>
<div>
Before you begin this, you need to know that LiPos are traditionally considered to be somewhat "volatile" and "dangerous." This is because abused LiPo batteries are known to sometimes catch fire, and some have burned down houses or cars, and a fair number of Radio Controlled airplanes have caught on fire during crashes, due to damaged LiPos. </div>
<div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div>
During a reasonable or normal discharge, however (even if running in your equipment), LiPos will not spontaneously catch on fire, even if discharged all the way down to <b>0V/cell</b>. It is the <b>*recharge*</b> phase that would normally cause a fully discharged LiPo to catch on fire, not the discharge phase. The reason is that when a LiPo is brought below <b>~3.7V/cell</b>, its internal resistance to taking on a charge begins to increase, some of which is permanent. Below <b>~3.0V/cell</b> the damage becomes significant enough to care about. Below <b>~2.5V/cell</b>, most manufacturers of LiPo chargers have said that the battery is too dangerous to be recharged. This is because the battery's internal resistance to charging has increased enough at this point that a standard recharge rate would be much too great for a LiPo at this low of a voltage level, since a standard 1C (1 x the battery's capacity) charge current could cause potentially unsafe heat build-up within the battery. Below <b>~2.0V/cell</b> the LiPo's rate of permanent internal damage has accelerated, below <b>~1.5V/cell </b>the rate of damage (again, permanent increase in internal resistance) has increased more still, and it only gets worse and worse. The rate at which this damage increases is not linear. It is perhaps a power function of, or exponentially related to the battery's voltage. In either event, it's bad, and special care must be taken.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I will now say that I have successfully restored dozens of batteries. Some of the worst ones which I have continued to use were as low as <b>~1.0V/cell</b>. I have successfully recharged, however, batteries as low as a few mV/cell--perhaps <b>10mV/cell, or 0.010V/cell</b>. These batteries were useless, however, and rapidly self-discharged back to ~0V/cell after removing them from the charger. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
Define "restore":</h4>
<div>
Before I go on, let me define what I mean when I say that I have "restored" these LiPos. I do NOT mean I have fixed them, or reversed their damage. I do NOT mean I have brought them back to good-as-new. Rather, I mean I have simply recharged them to a safe, usable level where they can continue to be used. That is all.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
A word of caution:</h4>
<div>
What I describe below is how I've restored the batteries. Use caution. If your battery is at <b>0.5V/cell,</b> its internal resistance is far higher than if it has only fallen to <b>1.0V/cell</b>, and both of these cases have internal resistances far higher still than a LiPo at <b>1.5V/cell</b>. Again, it seems to me that the relationship is *not* linear. And remember: high internal resistance is what causes heat buildup (and potentially fires if you are not careful), during recharge. <b>So, if you attempt to "restore" your over-discharged LiPos, YOU take full responsibility of what happens next. </b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Having said that, I've never had a problem. The only battery that really concerned me was the one at ~0V/cell, so I really watched it carefully, and I charged it *especially* slowly. It did get hot during recharge, but I charged it at such a low current that the heat did not become excessive (too hot to comfortably touch).</div>
</div>
<br />
<h3>
You'll Need a Smart Charger</h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6vGL8wK6PfG8kB4T_Sn6LI1-MNmH90-X-FkLrKyrAjGihNKBj-aUb33ngelRyAvLGMTefyZAApEcJwJM2njwtoPMBmRPD6ufpEYmpisQrJuicJK3YmQA20DI75tW9sVdztFAfJj7xUeq/s1600/Thunder+AC680+Charger.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC6vGL8wK6PfG8kB4T_Sn6LI1-MNmH90-X-FkLrKyrAjGihNKBj-aUb33ngelRyAvLGMTefyZAApEcJwJM2njwtoPMBmRPD6ufpEYmpisQrJuicJK3YmQA20DI75tW9sVdztFAfJj7xUeq/s1600/Thunder+AC680+Charger.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Thunder AC680 Smart Charger, charging a 4S NiMh pack</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
I'm not going to go into the details of LiPo balancing chargers, but you'll definitely need a nice charger <i>that can charge and balance multi-cell packs and which has the ability to control the charge current. </i><br />
<br />
<b>Here are some links to get your started:</b><br />
1) <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680</a> 80W balance charger w/accessories - I highly recommend this charger; it works great and has an outstanding value. Comparable chargers to this at many other retailers cost at least 2x more. I have this charger and I love it!--and I should note I have used many chargers, including high-end ones that are several hundred bucks a piece.<br />
2) <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7028&aff=281904" target="_blank">Turnigy Accucel-6</a> 50W 6A Balancer/Charger w/ accessories - also an outstanding, and dirt-cheap, yet highly functional smart charger. Excellent value; however, it requires an external power supply, such as this: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=20971&aff=281904" target="_blank">Hobbyking 105W 15V/7A Switching DC Power Supply</a>.<br />
3) <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__216__408__Chargers_Accessories-Battery_Chargers.html" target="_blank">General list of chargers from HobbyKing</a> - be sure to READ THE REVIEWS!<br />
<b>4) </b><b>Here are some relevant search results from Amazon for "LiPo charger":</b><br />
<script type="text/javascript">
amzn_assoc_placement = "adunit0";
amzn_assoc_tracking_id = "elecrc-20";
amzn_assoc_ad_mode = "search";
amzn_assoc_ad_type = "smart";
amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon";
amzn_assoc_region = "US";
amzn_assoc_title = "Shop For \"LiPo Charger\" on Amazon";
amzn_assoc_default_search_phrase = "lipo charger";
amzn_assoc_default_category = "All";
amzn_assoc_linkid = "f99a093ff81f0570fb635a5e67823db1";
amzn_assoc_search_bar = "true";
amzn_assoc_search_bar_position = "top";
</script>
<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script>
<br />
<h3>
Important Instructions Just Before You Begin Charging the Over-discharged LiPo</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKcMI-JcUdbpmdoeoFFgGnbFuspIBcF2o5v5-8iFKW1eSgmr9CC7cIuvsWroTgyVuDxkMszscd0ZuAssfP48N80JD9kjnTunbuQwH4sEhFGa1vOSXFMLBIMhdrp-AZY8rO19s9TtCVK-f/s1600/LiPo_Fire_August_15_2009_002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKcMI-JcUdbpmdoeoFFgGnbFuspIBcF2o5v5-8iFKW1eSgmr9CC7cIuvsWroTgyVuDxkMszscd0ZuAssfP48N80JD9kjnTunbuQwH4sEhFGa1vOSXFMLBIMhdrp-AZY8rO19s9TtCVK-f/s1600/LiPo_Fire_August_15_2009_002.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">LiPo that caught on fire during charging (<a href="http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t534588p1/" target="_blank">source</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><span style="color: red;">WARNING</span></b>: during the initial restoration phase, while the LiPos are <b><3.0V/cell</b>, do NOT leave them unattended. Constantly monitor them by touching them to ensure they do not get hot, and by sight/touch to ensure they do not puff up (puffing is an indication of released gases due to internal heat build-up). Once <b>>3.0V/cell</b>, you may place them in a fireproof charge container (such as the LiPo-safe fireproof charging bags shown below) and continue the charge process as described in the following steps. If <b><3.0V/cell</b>, I prefer to constantly feel the battery with my hand to monitor heat build-up, and I always keep a LiPo-safe charge bag nearby in case I need to throw the LiPo in the bag and run outside to let the LiPo burn in a safe area (again, never happened yet, but I don't want something bad to happen the first time there is a problem).</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbRVqVjE0FXesFZJovXi8KycDPQTzaY_D6qM5OC1KPrXY8631xZkDiehsR0QiNYrwCy__cuOnsCsn9OPwfuaUTZdp19-fYDt-mwIhL9GHgwAZN8fh-Q_kfpcyKWS6KsC4hm5fXVz8dBm5w/s1600/LiPo+Safe+bags.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbRVqVjE0FXesFZJovXi8KycDPQTzaY_D6qM5OC1KPrXY8631xZkDiehsR0QiNYrwCy__cuOnsCsn9OPwfuaUTZdp19-fYDt-mwIhL9GHgwAZN8fh-Q_kfpcyKWS6KsC4hm5fXVz8dBm5w/s1600/LiPo+Safe+bags.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A couple of my LiPo-Safe Charging bags.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
LiPo-safe charging bags can be purchased in many places, but here are a few of my favorites:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<ol>
<li>Lithium Polymer Charge Pack 25x33cm JUMBO Sack </li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904" target="_blank">~$3 from the main (international) warehouse here</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=37573&aff=281904" target="_blank">~$4 from the USA warehouse here</a></li>
</ol>
<li>Lithium Polymer Charge Pack 18x22cm Sack </li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4134&aff=281904" target="_blank">~$2 from the main warehouse here</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=37572&aff=281904" target="_blank">~3 from the USA warehouse here</a></li>
</ol>
<li>Amazon search results for "LiPo charge bag": <script type="text/javascript">
amzn_assoc_placement = "adunit0";
amzn_assoc_tracking_id = "elecrc-20";
amzn_assoc_ad_mode = "search";
amzn_assoc_ad_type = "smart";
amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon";
amzn_assoc_region = "US";
amzn_assoc_title = "Shop For \"LiPo charge bag\" on Amazon";
amzn_assoc_default_search_phrase = "lipo charge bag";
amzn_assoc_default_category = "All";
amzn_assoc_linkid = "f99a093ff81f0570fb635a5e67823db1";
amzn_assoc_search_bar = "true";
amzn_assoc_search_bar_position = "top";
</script>
<script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US"></script></li>
</ol>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
Begin the Charge</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
1) LiPo is <3.0V/cell:</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
<b>When <3.0V/cell, charge the LiPo at a significantly reduced rate of 1/20~1/10 C rate (1/20~1/10 [0.05~0.10] x its capacity) until it is above 3.0V/cell. </b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Example</b>: for the LiPo battery shown at the top of this instructable, a <b>1/20 C charge rate</b> would be 1/20 x 1.3Ah = 0.065A. This is because the battery's capacity, as stated on the label, is 1300mAh (read as "mili-amp-hours"), or 1.3Ah (read as "amp-hours"). So, a 1/20 C charge rate is 1/20 of 1.3, or 0.065A. A <b>1/10 C charge rate</b> is 1/10 x 1.3 = 0.13A. Note that although some smart chargers can charge at currents as low as <b>0.05A</b>, many cannot charge at a rate lower than <b>0.1A</b>. If you cannot set your charger to charge at a current as low as you'd like, simply choose its lowest setting possible, and carefully monitor the battery during the charge. <u>My charger could only go down to 0.1A minimum charge rate, so I set my charger to 0.1A at this point to charge this 1300mAh 3S LiPo. This equates to a 0.077C charge rate (0.1/1.3 = 0.077).</u></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
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<div>
<b>Additional Charge Setting Notes</b>: recharging a LiPo below <b>3.0V/cell </b>may require using a <b>NiMh</b> or <b>NiCad charger setting </b>on the LiPo batteries, as most smart chargers have safety features which prevent a user from attempting to charge a LiPo which is below <b>2.5V/cell,</b> as this can be dangerous if a standard charge rate is used. Since all we are after is setting a low (and safe) constant charge current to get the LiPo back up to a safe charge level, using a NiMH/NiCad setting is fine until we get the battery <b>>3.0V/cell</b>. <b><span style="color: red;">WHEN USING AN NIMH or NiCad SETTING TO GET THE LIPOS ABOVE 3.0V/CELL, ***NEVER*** LEAVE THEM UNATTENDED</span></b>. You should not leave them unattended because the NiMh/NiCad end-of-charge detection method is not compatible with Lithium based batteries, and if left on the charger until full, the end-of-charge state will never be detected and the LiPo battery will be overcharged until it (likely) catches fire and destroys itself (see the burning LiPo picture above; you don't want that to happen).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
Continuing the Charge Process</h3>
</div>
<br />
<h4>
2) LiPo is 3.0~3.7V/cell</h4>
<div>
<div>
Once above <b>3.0V/cell</b>, you may optionally increase the charge rate to <b>1/10~1/5 C rate [0.10~0.2 x its capacity]</b> until the LiPo is <b>~3.7V/cell</b> or higher. <u>At this point, I set the charge rate for my 1300mAh 3S LiPo to 0.2A. This equates to a 0.2/1.3 = 0.154C charge rate.</u></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
You may stop holding the battery/constantly feeling it at this time, and place the LiPo in a fireproof container or LiPo-safe charge bag at this point, if desired.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<h3>
Finishing the Charge</h3>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h4>
3) LiPo is 3.7~4.2V/cell</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
Once above approximately <b>3.7V/cell</b>, you may optionally increase the charge rate again to <b>1/2 C rate [0.50 x its capacity]</b> until the LiPo is full (<b>4.20V/cell</b>). <u>At this point, I decided to set the charge rate for my 1300mAh 3S LiPo to 0.5A. This equates to a 0.5/1.3 = 0.385C charge rate.</u><br />
<br />
<h3>
Back to Regular Use</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
Now, use the batteries as normal. The lower the battery was discharged, the more permanent damage it will have. If you use the battery (ex: to fly an RC airplane), and it works ok, then you can safely assume that subsequent charges at 1C are again acceptable (<u>to review: for my 1300mAh LiPo, a 1C rate equates to a charge rate of 1.0C x 1.3Ah = 1.3A</u>). Watch the LiPo over the next few cycles, however, and ensure the battery does not puff during discharging or charging. This would be an indication that the internal resistance of the battery is still too high for normal use and standard 1C charge rates. <br />
<br />
In any event, due to having over-discharged the LiPos, you may notice a permanent decrease in their capacity (mAh) or maximum discharge rate<i> (ie: they will likely have a reduced discharge C-rating, as noted by lower power output & reduced performance), as the battery’s internal resistance will have been increased, and some permanent damage will exist. </i>Additionally, the longevity of the over-discharged LiPo (ie: how many cycles you can get out of it) will have been reduced.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81UWbDtEERs-0XYjBCav2JZqzur1p_hLeWuPhxRd2YDrWZYuKkED-g425lgtMPADinmHHZELexwqYtYkbEzFWosmwgtkhTOpj32sA02320JsX7D_m-cN_WztbxTV7EdRrMXxHq99PaPrg/s1600/NutBall+Review+-+Gabriel+-+comp.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81UWbDtEERs-0XYjBCav2JZqzur1p_hLeWuPhxRd2YDrWZYuKkED-g425lgtMPADinmHHZELexwqYtYkbEzFWosmwgtkhTOpj32sA02320JsX7D_m-cN_WztbxTV7EdRrMXxHq99PaPrg/s1600/NutBall+Review+-+Gabriel+-+comp.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watch me fly this plane in my <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/this-is-what-my-nutball-can-do.html" target="_blank">YouTube video here</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Here is a picture of my airplane which uses my 1300mAh 3S LiPo that I overdischarged. I was able to recover the battery and it is still in use today! I should note, however, that the plane definitely does have reduced power and a lower top speed when using this battery, so the battery definitely has received some permanent damage to its chemistry.<br />
<br />
Let me know how this works out for you! Be safe!<br />
<br />
If you found this article interesting, please subscribe to email updates whenever I post new content, via the links at the top-right of this site! <br />
<br />
Additionally, you may be interested in some of the other articles linked at the top and bottom of this article, <i>especially this one!</i> - <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a>.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Q&A:</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2015/02/quantifying-amt-of-damage-done-to-LiPo-battery-pack.html#.VNY9aWjF-So" target="_blank">Question About Over-discharged LiPo--How do I quantify the amount of damage done to the battery pack?</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
=======================================================<br />
Other Articles I've Written That You May Be Interested in Reading:<br />
<br />
1) <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a><br />
2) <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a><br />
3) <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a><br />
4) <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/09/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation.html" target="_blank">Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation</a><br />
5) <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor & ONE Power Pod!</a><br />
6) <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a><br />
<br />
=======================================================<br />
Responses to comments below:<br />
2 Nov. 2014: links for Lawishard for a small 1S LiPo. <br />
Lawishard needs a tiny (~2mm x 20mm x 20mm ~50mAh single-cell LiPo), so I recommend considering the following as replacements for only a few $$ + shipping:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7565&aff=281904" target="_blank">ZIPPY 50mAh 20C single cell (19x14x5mm)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7567&aff=281904" target="_blank">ZIPPY 100mAh 20C single cell (30x15x4mm)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7566&aff=281904" target="_blank">ZIPPY 70mAh 20C single cell (18x14x6mm)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7568&aff=281904" target="_blank">ZIPPY 240mAh 20C single cell (24x19x5mm)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?cwhl=XX&idCategory=86&v=&sortlist=P&LiPoConfig=1&CatSortOrder=asc" target="_blank">Whole list of 1-cell (1S) options</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
I have personally never needed to solder single cells yet, but my understanding is this:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>if the metal tabs have solder already on them, you can just solder to them with no problem.</li>
<li>the metal tabs are aluminum, so you may need aluminum solder paste to get solder to bond to them otherwise</li>
<li>if you don't feel comfortable trying to solder to bare 1S Lipo tabs directly, look for a packaged 1S LiPo with battery lead and everything already attached, and see if you can clip the wire and solder to the clipped wires instead.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com66tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-75442568494174863422014-08-03T19:13:00.003-07:002018-05-26T21:57:38.803-07:00Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 14 June 2014<br />
Posted to blog: 3 Aug. 2014<br />
Last Updated: 26 May 2018<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">History (newest on TOP):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20180526: Added Velleman desoldering review & link.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20170415: converted basic Amazon links to Amazon Affiliate links; updated many of the solder links too, and prices on many links</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20161126: updated many links, incl the broken ones from Radio Shack; also added several new sections, including bonus soldering irons, rosin flux, high-power irons & torches, acid-core solders & acid fluxes, & how to tin a soldering iron tip.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20141008: added an advanced "drag soldering" link at bottom</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20140905: added more soldering iron links, & solder tip tinner/cleaner link, as well as quite a bit more info.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-20140830: added more info about soldering irons "for Radio Control" use; also added "intermediate" links to the soldering tutorials section at the end</span><br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/soldering-heavy-duty-connectors.html" target="_blank">Heavy Duty Connectors and Large Gauge Wire, & XT60 Soldering Experiment </a>- using my $8, 60W Hobbico iron from Tower Hobbies</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> <-- be sure to check out the various really useful Arduino-related links at the bottom of this post! They have helped me a ton.</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter "Library"</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li>All articles on my blog with the label "Arduino" - <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
<b><i>Here is a list I put together to help people get into soldering & electronics.</i></b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP3CBvHMusqwygORjJyxQnmRL_F5MMNXuMbvF7HiW3DamNNpe8WdYaKtOIpOcQtXKnvAO4HKL6siyNF4x2_RoDlrjN_Rgs6iOK0VuTES8j88lWHfTTF_PF-RAiyqZ6SuZ9J-u45KCd_lF/s1600/adafruit+hakko+fx-888d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP3CBvHMusqwygORjJyxQnmRL_F5MMNXuMbvF7HiW3DamNNpe8WdYaKtOIpOcQtXKnvAO4HKL6siyNF4x2_RoDlrjN_Rgs6iOK0VuTES8j88lWHfTTF_PF-RAiyqZ6SuZ9J-u45KCd_lF/s1600/adafruit+hakko+fx-888d.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1204" target="_blank">DIGITAL GENUINE HAKKO FX-888D, from Adafruit.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><i>Keep reading below for more info.</i></b><br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><i><b><span style="color: red;">If this article saves you time or money, please</span> <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/01/contribute.html" target="_blank">contribute</a> <span style="color: red;">something for the value you receive.</span></b></i><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Update--my review on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VTDESOL3U-Vacuum-Desoldering-Heater/dp/B00B88FRME/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=c3cf6c5752fbd47fbdbfdc322d4aeb66" target="_blank">my latest <u>desoldering tool</u> purchase</a> (< $10)!</span></b><br />
<br />
I just bought this Velleman desoldering iron/vacuum (desoldering pump) for ~$10 on Amazon. It worked so well I wanted to share <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R24TU3YH02J8F/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00B88FRME&linkCode=ll2&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=74ed64e0cdc20df8d028d61ccb3de4ac" target="_blank">my review</a> directly, since it could have saved me dozens of hours and tons of frustration before when I was newer to soldering and trying to desolder through-hole parts with lots of legs, such as switches. It is SUCH a great value and would have prevented me from destroying or damaging several circuit boards in the past!<br />
<br />
<i><b>My Review title: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R24TU3YH02J8F/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00B88FRME&linkCode=ll2&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=74ed64e0cdc20df8d028d61ccb3de4ac" target="_blank">Best-value sub-$100 soldering equipment purchase I've ever made!</a></b></i><br />
<i>By Gabriel S on May 19, 2018</i><br />
<i>Verified Purchase</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>I own a few hundred dollars worth of soldering equipment, and this is the best-value soldering purchase I've ever made! It heats like a champ and has tons of power and can *easily* desolder *large* through-hole components, even switches and pots the size of your thumb, as well as small stuff too! The secret? Properly tin the tip the very first time you heat it up, and treat it like a soldering iron!--ie: keep the tip wet with fresh solder while you work. *Adding* solder to a joint you want to *desolder* is a "secret" well-known by the experts because it keeps the joint fresh and flowing rather than brittle and plasticized so that the solder flows well and the joint is cleaned nicely when you press the vacuum button. Also be sure to hold the iron vertical to get good suction when sucking. And let me repeat: if you say the iron is not hot enough you are WRONG! (in 98% of the cases). What you need to do instead is *add fresh flux-core solder* to the iron tip--get it all up inside the tip even, then place the tip over your through-hole leg to desolder and now the fresh solder will flow the heat right into the joint--press the vacuum sucker button and voila! You've just cleaned that joint perfectly! Repeat a few more times and the through-hole component can be just wiggled right out! Amazing! BEST SUB-$100 PURCHASE I'VE EVER MADE IN THE SOLDERING WORLD SO FAR (and it's only $10), and I've been in it a while: Google "Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials Electric RC Aircraft Guy" for instance and you can find me.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Also, this unit *can* be cleaned. The <u>light cleaning</u>: with the iron fully heated, rapidly press the plunger a few times. It will shoot out drops of solder that were sitting up inside. The <u>heavy cleaning</u>: the vacuum tube can be removed with some force, care, and a small to medium flathead screwdriver. Search the YouTube videos.</i><br />
<i><br /></i><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VTDESOL3U-Vacuum-Desoldering-Heater/dp/B00B88FRME/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=c3cf6c5752fbd47fbdbfdc322d4aeb66" target="_blank">Here is the link</a> directly if you'd like one.<br />
Note that I paid for this thing 100% myself. I did NOT get promotions or discounts, and no one told me to write this review. I did it because I love the product. That being said, I've posted this as an Amazon affiliate link, so if you use the link here when you make your purchase (please do) I'll get a few cents out of it. Thanks.<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ss&ref=as_ss_li_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B00B88FRME&asins=B00B88FRME&linkId=320494c087e688654b87ff7a4d80853a&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;"></iframe><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Main Article Preface:</span></b><br />
Before I begin this article, I would like to say that I know there are *many* soldering irons and products to choose from today, and this is NOT meant to be a comprehensive list, nor does it necessarily contain "the best" products, since that claim is highly subjective, and it is not practical nor possible to try to test or own all soldering equipment. Rather, this article contains a brief list of products that I am familiar with, items which for the most part I have used or currently own, and items which I have found to be a great value. In other words, if you have differing opinions from me, that's perfectly fine, but if you are new to this arena, I hope this list is a good reference to at least get you started in the hobby.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><u>Recommended Soldering Kit:</u></span></b><br />
<ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Soldering Iron</span></b></li>
<ol>
<li><b><u>For General Electronics Work</u> (ex: circuit boards, headers, through-hole & surface mount soldering, etc):<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_zJRQ0At0WPO9hp6VVFWIXTCiFdjalFgKI2EBzXjOtRdu5f1QGrMKKDnvKiy_FGdMs38CAopaTyAD2bd66wb7WAYXTVxMxK1oTl7HFJaAAS0adRYuNr7RDS1dX2L2WWP1Dbz8EAagC-5t/s1600/radio+shack+15W+iron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_zJRQ0At0WPO9hp6VVFWIXTCiFdjalFgKI2EBzXjOtRdu5f1QGrMKKDnvKiy_FGdMs38CAopaTyAD2bd66wb7WAYXTVxMxK1oTl7HFJaAAS0adRYuNr7RDS1dX2L2WWP1Dbz8EAagC-5t/s1600/radio+shack+15W+iron.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">15W iron from Radio Shack, $12.99</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</b></li>
<ol>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJlUcXzxIKNO_s1BEnO2tezgIGRvBj-pUksIqSflOCgSRVR7NzTs6vM_O_m2rLtWE2aVMO26PK_GzIM9-d82G04_h1BLWFNxAGNgkiXqkcgxWqOvxtrMavcZSvZm9Xf81S0B9nYfpIVF6U/s1600/adafruit+30W+adjustable+iron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJlUcXzxIKNO_s1BEnO2tezgIGRvBj-pUksIqSflOCgSRVR7NzTs6vM_O_m2rLtWE2aVMO26PK_GzIM9-d82G04_h1BLWFNxAGNgkiXqkcgxWqOvxtrMavcZSvZm9Xf81S0B9nYfpIVF6U/s1600/adafruit+30W+adjustable+iron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJlUcXzxIKNO_s1BEnO2tezgIGRvBj-pUksIqSflOCgSRVR7NzTs6vM_O_m2rLtWE2aVMO26PK_GzIM9-d82G04_h1BLWFNxAGNgkiXqkcgxWqOvxtrMavcZSvZm9Xf81S0B9nYfpIVF6U/s1600/adafruit+30W+adjustable+iron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a>
<li><b>(Ultra Economical) </b>- <strike><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062728" target="_blank">http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062728</a>, 15-Watt Soldering Iron with Grounded Tip, <b>$12.99</b>, works GREAT for electronics, such as soldering headers to stuff for Arduino. This is a good beginner iron. I used one for a long time; worked nicely!</strike> UPDATE: NO LONGER SOLD. New recommendation: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071N75H0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0071N75H0&linkId=9a357c27344fbdf374853ce2442161a4" target="_blank">30W Delcast iron for $6 on Amazon</a>, OR <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/30-watt-lightweight-soldering-iron-69060.html" target="_blank">30W iron at Harbor Freight for $4</a>: </li>
<ol>
<li>Of these two irons, the Decast one is better because it has a plated tip, which should help it last longer without pitting.</li>
<li>Note: these are unregulated irons, so they have no temperature nor power control whatsoever.</li>
<li>If able/available, buy extra tips for these irons, and <u>be sure to use a dry brass cleaning sponge (see below) instead of a wet water sponge to prolong tip life</u>. If the tip does start to pit or wear down, however, just periodically sand, file, or grind it back into a good shape. (For nicer irons with plated tips, the recommendation is just to replace the tip when it gets pitted or worn down, but whatever). These irons are cheap as dirt, but you can get by with one for quite some time with a little patience and love. Just ask my good friend Michael Cardoza (<a href="http://ampere-sand.blogspot.com/">http://ampere-sand.blogspot.com/</a>), as his Harbor Freight-like 30W iron is still what he uses.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</li>
</ol>
<li><b>(Much Nicer)</b> - <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/180" target="_blank">https://www.adafruit.com/products/180</a> - Adjustable 30W 110V soldering iron,<b> $22</b>. Great beginner iron. Adjustable power settings (but cannot control tip temperature directly). </li>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJlUcXzxIKNO_s1BEnO2tezgIGRvBj-pUksIqSflOCgSRVR7NzTs6vM_O_m2rLtWE2aVMO26PK_GzIM9-d82G04_h1BLWFNxAGNgkiXqkcgxWqOvxtrMavcZSvZm9Xf81S0B9nYfpIVF6U/s1600/adafruit+30W+adjustable+iron.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJlUcXzxIKNO_s1BEnO2tezgIGRvBj-pUksIqSflOCgSRVR7NzTs6vM_O_m2rLtWE2aVMO26PK_GzIM9-d82G04_h1BLWFNxAGNgkiXqkcgxWqOvxtrMavcZSvZm9Xf81S0B9nYfpIVF6U/s1600/adafruit+30W+adjustable+iron.jpg" width="200" /></a></li>
</ol>
<li><b>(Another Option)</b> - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000AS28UC&linkId=3fd0626bbc01870f64ca86f814089b53" target="_blank">Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station</a>, <b>$39</b>. Adjustable power settings via a dial (but cannot control tip temperature directly).</li>
<ol>
<li><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B000AS28UC&asins=B000AS28UC&linkId=838d592e518238507b502b35239f7c7b&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe></li>
</ol>
<li><b>(Nicer still)</b> - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I30QBW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000I30QBW&linkId=39cdf2b647f462c86e584cb062a5f43a" target="_blank">45W Aoyue 937+ Digital Soldering Station - ESD Safe</a>, <b>$60</b>. <b>Has digital temperature control.</b></li>
<li><b>(Very nice)</b> - 70W Digital Genuine Hakko FX-888D (936 upgrade), ESD Safe. <b>Has digital temperature control</b> – I have one of these, and I love it!</li>
<ol><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP3CBvHMusqwygORjJyxQnmRL_F5MMNXuMbvF7HiW3DamNNpe8WdYaKtOIpOcQtXKnvAO4HKL6siyNF4x2_RoDlrjN_Rgs6iOK0VuTES8j88lWHfTTF_PF-RAiyqZ6SuZ9J-u45KCd_lF/s1600/adafruit+hakko+fx-888d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP3CBvHMusqwygORjJyxQnmRL_F5MMNXuMbvF7HiW3DamNNpe8WdYaKtOIpOcQtXKnvAO4HKL6siyNF4x2_RoDlrjN_Rgs6iOK0VuTES8j88lWHfTTF_PF-RAiyqZ6SuZ9J-u45KCd_lF/s1600/adafruit+hakko+fx-888d.jpg" width="200" /></a>
<li><b>$110 here</b> - <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/product/1204" target="_blank">https://www.adafruit.com/product/1204</a></li>
<li><b>$97 </b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWUFVY8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00AWUFVY8&linkId=dce43cb3d481e6006cab61fbef25f698" target="_blank">with FREE CHP170 flush cutters [GREAT FLUSH CUTTERS--EXCELLENT DEAL], on Amazon here</a></li>
<li><b>Ultra-fine tip for surface-mount soldering</b> - the medium, flat-head "screwdriver"-like tip that comes on the Hakko FX-888D works great for regular through-hole soldering, but when ultra-fine work is required, you might try the Hakko T18-S4 conical sharp tip, found <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/1249" target="_blank">here on Adafruit for $10</a>, or <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00762AHYY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00762AHYY&linkId=32adcf474a22ac461d1cd60d2becaa59" target="_blank">here on Amazon for $9.</a></li>
</ol>
<li><b>Bonus: hot-air soldering/desoldering rework station!</b> - ex: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AO7SH80/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01AO7SH80&linkId=924401a9a0b0f39e5587fbd7931eed90" target="_blank">2in1 878ad Soldering Iron Rework Station Hot Air Gun + Tip + 3 Nozzles Heat Gun Holder Welder Yihua,</a> $64 <i><--VERY WELL-BUILT UNIT! I bought one of these for a friend.</i></li>
<li><b>Bonus: cordless soldering irons</b> - sometimes you just need more portability; here's a few highly-rated options I found:</li>
<ol>
<li>Electric:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPUA28/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00FZPUA28&linkId=588ea23e1456e04808e5bfd06789c08a" target="_blank">Hakko FX-901/P Cordless Soldering Iron, $32 on Amazon</a> - though I haven't used it, this one looks like the best value to me, especially because it simply uses 4 standard alkaline or NiMh batteries, which means you can easily replace them, carry spares with you, and upgrade your *standard* (not proprietary) AA-sized rechargeable cells as rechargeable technology improves. Using built-in batteries is always a bit of a pain in the butt and generally costs *way* more (usually double, as you can see below) because it requires the manufacturer to provide you a battery, charger and charge circuitry too, which is half the cost, and is often-times based on older rechargeable battery technology and proprietary battery shapes, sizes, and packages which you can't easily upgrade as battery technology improves.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GHT6P8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B004GHT6P8&linkId=6adcaf65b04eab9fcdb8d7667852abe4" target="_blank">ISO-TIP 7700,</a> $63</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B61GTW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000B61GTW&linkId=cc6d653a3823f58e7b422325daa0aad8" target="_blank">ISO-TIP 7800,</a> $72</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002A2C3QU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B002A2C3QU&linkId=23f46215014ffa9cc77a199494b8df92" target="_blank">ISO-TIP 7904,</a> $77</li>
</ol>
<li>Butane-based:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RIDT84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001RIDT84&linkId=2bdec5e4eb6cfafb9c54d15c91d60506" target="_blank">Iso-Tip #7971 SolderPro 50 Butane Soldering Iron, $26 on Amazon</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJW08JK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00MJW08JK&linkId=fdff3a1e3bf5361438d44d92d8ccc25c" target="_blank">Dremel 2000-01 Versa Tip Precision Butane Soldering Torch; $41 on Amazon</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DIE9BO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001DIE9BO&linkId=54018ae196bac6f2e3b59e2339100513" target="_blank">Power Probe PPSK Butane Soldering Kit, $42 on Amazon</a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b><u>For Radio Control</u> (ex: heavy-duty battery plugs & connectors, large-gauge wire, landing gear, etc):</b></li>
<ol>
<li>FOR THIS APPLICATION I RECOMMEND A 60W, ***UNREGULATED*** IRON!!! I can't stress this enough. Even the 70W Hakko above, or a <a href="http://www.newark.com/weller/wd1002/digital-soldering-station-85w/dp/86K9118" target="_blank">$350+ professional 85W Weller soldering station</a> (based on my several wasted hours of repeated personal experience) will not do the job here when soldering a multiple-large-gauge-wire connection. For this application, we need raw, unregulated heat & power, with a heavy, large-diameter tip to allow a high heat transfer rate. So, only something as high quality and solid as an $8 Hobbico iron will do the trick! (Yes, seriously. :) Tell your associates to "go shove it" when they tell you to use the "higher quality" Weller station). PS. Finding a soldering iron > 30W locally is nearly impossible in my experience. You'll probably have to go online. Here's what I use:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=ML" target="_blank">Hobbico 60W soldering iron, from TowerH</a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=ML" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="137" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQo70Aohik55A_eslnwFH8Y1bsRys5HZBp8OIcUnyTFmkra7fXpxXf3QsH-wKI4dMmU3laMhNGZDDAg_wQvb2ouVzqTRYXHUvvMMo3fw8ECH1MMXplDmpkW4xrrhmM44hP9i5Kk7CySzP/s1600/Hobbico+60W+iron.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></div>
<a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=ML" target="_blank">obbies</a>, $8 (<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NGZK0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0006NGZK0&linkId=3b253a5a6ad372db36dc8c52ab73e8f8" target="_blank">UPDATED LINK: ALSO $8 HERE ON AMAZON PRIME</a>) - when one of the above irons doesn't cut it, this one will. Prior to getting into electronics (like Arduino), this was my only soldering iron for several years. I used it on wire from ~30AWG in size (very small) up to ~8AWG in size (very large). It did the job. I've also never changed the tip on it yet. Due to using a wet sponge to clean its tip for a long time, it <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm66XiTZAZdkvvmO6nEI_TOh1_HXUilUqmJxh2HYZONj1s-5Z_jLWvrV-fFWEQuwCx6_195kGx0NCPMvDTJSAmyE0DZvwQshXyh381jCh8PO3elOxaoz5p_iamR4Tq9_1to-L38K2_cfky/s1600/IMG_0066.JPG" target="_blank">looked like a mutilated nub</a>. (To prevent/minimize tip wear and tear in the future, use a dry brass sponge as described down below). Despite the tip being severely dissolved, however, it was still well-tinned and worked fine. <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/soldering-heavy-duty-connectors.html" target="_blank">See some of its handy work here</a>. I recently used a Dremel tool, cutting wheel, polishing wheel, and file to cut this tip back into a nice shape. </li>
</ol>
<li>FYI: For lighter RC work and plugs (perhaps 80%~95% of your general cases), a generic 30W iron (or one of the irons above, including the Hakko), purchased locally or wherever, will probably work. When you get to very large connectors or bundles of wires, however, you will find the heat from a 30W iron (or even a 70W or 85W professional soldering station) is often-times insufficient to allow the solder to properly flow. Again, this is where the $8 60W unregulated iron, <i>or one of the "High-Power Irons" listed below,</i> is needed. </li>
<li><b>Before you go buying a new iron though, first try using your current soldering iron with your largest soldering tip you have, to see if that alone is sufficient. Larger tips store more heat energy (have higher thermal capacity) and have higher thermal conductivity and can therefore more easily heat large-gauge wires and components.</b></li>
<ol>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Soldering Stand </span></b></li>
<ol>
<li>Note: these stands come with a sponge meant to be used wet, with water, to clean your soldering iron tip. However, to prolong tip life, use the dry brass sponge (listed below) to clean your iron’s tip instead.</li>
<li>Examples:</li>
<ol>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndg1wgIrZgGPnqQsm8DLtHHio-mJqk10dMknVrgOChpIYaVaxhe_D21IUZ1Z7FkQoqS2shECXw4QxD9O4ULER0QOZN6guWjswkLyxya1lOKlJcFsEQ_tarqxMSqeiQ33LxfEd3Wr1jcP1/s1600/amazon+nice+soldering+stand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="174" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndg1wgIrZgGPnqQsm8DLtHHio-mJqk10dMknVrgOChpIYaVaxhe_D21IUZ1Z7FkQoqS2shECXw4QxD9O4ULER0QOZN6guWjswkLyxya1lOKlJcFsEQ_tarqxMSqeiQ33LxfEd3Wr1jcP1/s1600/amazon+nice+soldering+stand.jpg" width="200" /></a>
<li><strike><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062740" target="_blank">http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062740</a>, <b>$10</b></strike> - Soldering Iron Holder and Cleaner. I have this one; pretty basic but works great! UPDATE: BROKEN LINK, try this instead: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=soldering+stand" target="_blank">Amazon search for "soldering stand."</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IJAEZG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B008IJAEZG&linkId=1339e90ea326814248684cadd86dbedf" target="_blank">Configurable Soldering iron Holder With dual Cleaner</a>, <b>$22</b> - a nice, heavy-duty soldering stand from Amazon, with brass sponge & solder roll holder - great value. I have used this stand and it works great. Highly recommended, and since it comes with the brass sponge you don't need to buy one separate.</li>
<li>Or <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=21262&aff=281904" target="_blank">a soldering iron stand from Hobbyking</a>, <b>$3.18 + ~$5</b> shipping or so.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Brass Sponge</span></b></li>
<ol>
<li>The brass sponge does NOT require water to clean the tip, thereby minimizing tip heating/cooling cycles (thermal stress), and prolonging tip life (<a href="https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-solder---through-hole-soldering/all" target="_blank">source</a>). Get one for sure.</li>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-m4r9UK1H07tIXp2oMbkTI3sX54W25Jkan24CS5jjLMQeEJkEdCd3SuftX5sxOUu0o2lTLshXPKr4oe_RACtjFBKYXr4iR_lC6SqaLOBJO-HfyryTADiqZFKerh81CcPz-OOSvNPurNhV/s1600/Ebay+brass+sponge,+$3.49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-m4r9UK1H07tIXp2oMbkTI3sX54W25Jkan24CS5jjLMQeEJkEdCd3SuftX5sxOUu0o2lTLshXPKr4oe_RACtjFBKYXr4iR_lC6SqaLOBJO-HfyryTADiqZFKerh81CcPz-OOSvNPurNhV/s1600/Ebay+brass+sponge,+$3.49.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">$3.49 brass sponge from ebay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=soldering+iron+tip+cleaner&_sop=15" target="_blank">Ebay search for “soldering iron tip cleaner”, with “Buy It Now” filter selected, and sorted by price</a> – find a brass sponge here for as little as <b>$3.49 w/FREE shipping</b>. I have one; works great!</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/1172" target="_blank">Hakko Brass Sponge Solder Tip Cleaner, from Adafruit</a>, <b>$10.95</b></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N411WDM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01N411WDM&linkId=bf8cd56a4dc0e4ce6f1c8e8af99f0b65" target="_blank">Hakko 599B-02 Brass Sponge Solder Tip Cleaner WITH BONUS SOLDER WICK, from Amazon</a>, <b>$11 </b><--GREAT DEAL!</li>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<span style="font-size: medium;"><script src="//z-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/onejs?MarketPlace=US&adInstanceId=4550d352-b552-476b-b160-44f55adccaa7"></script></span><br />
<ol start="4">
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Solder</span></b></li>
<ol>
<li>WARNING: the 60/40 on the solder means 60% Lead/40% Tin, 63/37 would be 63% Lead/37% Tin, etc. If you are pregnant or nursing, I recommend you use lead-free solder instead, which is a little more expensive, has a higher melting temperature, doesn't flow quite as well, and is a touch harder to use.</li>
<li><b>For General Electronics Work (ex: circuit boards, headers, through-hole & surface mount soldering, etc)--use a <u>smaller-diameter solder--0.031" (0.8mm) or so</u>--here is my favorite solder:</b></li>
<ol>
<li> <iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B0149K4JTY&asins=B0149K4JTY&linkId=d7c16bc0bb3284cd35c08e4f2d290c98&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0149K4JTY&linkId=57e174222403ec9883622854c090e9c1" target="_blank">Kester 24-6337-0027 <b>1 lb</b> *leaded* Solder Roll, Core Size 66, <b>63/37 Lead/Tin Alloy, 0.031" Diameter</b>, w/Kester Rosin "44" RA core flux (great flux--flows very well; does not need to be cleaned off)</a>, <b>$25</b>. </li>
<ol>
<li>You can also do your own research on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/" target="_blank">AMAZON</a>, <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/" target="_blank">SPARKFUN</a>, <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/" target="_blank">ADAFRUIT</a>, OR <a href="http://www.ebay.com/" target="_blank">EBAY </a>if you like – just get <b>rosin core, 60/40 or 63/37 lead/tin mix, 0.031" or 0.032” (0.8mm) diameter, 1/4 lb to 1 lb (100g~400g) spool</b></li>
<li>BUY 1 roll of this size (0.031"~0.032", or 0.8mm) solder for sure. I have used this gauge of solder to solder anything from general-purpose wires and 2.54mm-spaced headers & through-hole electronics all the way down to 0.5mm-spaced legs on an SSOP surface-mount package. A skilled hand can use it to solder even smaller legs to a circuit board. <b>It's great for general-purpose Radio Control (RC) use too, though the larger solder below is easier to use on large connectors, since you have to feed less length of it to get the desired amount.</b></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>For Radio Control (RC) (ex: heavy-duty battery plugs & connectors, large-gauge wire, landing gear, etc)--<u>use a larger-diameter solder--0.050" to 0.062" (1.2mm~1.6mm) or so</u>--here is an excellent choice:</b></li>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJQI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00068IJQI&linkId=30682829743e8893113af551f0ad2fa0" target="_blank">Kester 24-6040-0053 1 lb *leaded* Solder Roll, 66 Core Size, 0.050" Diameter, 60/40 Lead/Tin alloy</a>, <b>$24</b></li>
<ol>
<li>You can also do your own research on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/" target="_blank">AMAZON</a>, <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/" target="_blank">SPARKFUN</a>, <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/" target="_blank">ADAFRUIT</a>, OR <a href="http://www.ebay.com/" target="_blank">EBAY </a>if you like - <b>just get <b>rosin core, 60/40 or 63/37 lead/tin mix, 0.050" to 0.062" (1.2mm~1.6mm) diameter, 1/4 lb to 1 lb (100g~400g) spool.</b></b></li>
<li>For larger-gauge applications, I like this larger-diameter leaded rosin-core solder instead. The larger diameter means you have to feed less length of it into the solder joint. I have used this larger gauge solder on anything from 30AWG (very small) ultra-light servo or micro motor wires, all the way up to 8AWG (very large) motor wires, though of course you can use it on larger wires too. It's great for general-purpose Radio Control vehicle connectors. <b>This solder wire, however, is too big for general purpose circuit-board or electronics use, such as soldering Arduino components. For small wires (smaller than ~20 AWG), you'll find that you waste more of this solder too, so you might consider buying one of this size and one of the size above. </b><i style="font-weight: bold;">If you're only going to buy one roll of solder, go with the smaller 0.031"-diameter solder listed above instead.</i></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>Lead-free solder</b>:</li>
<ol>
<li>For lead-free soldering, here's just one good example: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6CFXOQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01M6CFXOQ&linkId=52860f3b2ef763dfd456ab630127775c" target="_blank">YOUSHARES 0.8mm Lead Free Solder Wire with Rosin Core for Electrical Repair Soldering (Sn99/Ag0.3/Cu0.7, flux 2.0%, 0.22lb, 93.5ft)</a>, <b>$9</b> on Amazon</li>
<li>Following my size (diameter) guidelines and recommendations above, feel free to do your own research for lead-free solder on <a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/" target="_blank">Sparkfun </a>and <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/" target="_blank">Adafruit </a>as well, as they are also excellent shopping choices.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><span style="font-size: medium;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Rosin flux</span></b></span><b style="font-size: large;"> </b>(for acid fluxes, see farther below) - for helping to bond metal surfaces while soldering. Flux helps solder to flow better and bond to the surface better (better "wetting"). It also can help prevent oxidation from forming while soldering since it creates a barrier between the metal surface and the surrounding oxygen-containing air. The solders I recommend above have rosin flux inside of them, but sometimes (I very rarely need to do this actually) adding a little extra flux is helpful during soldering. </li>
<ol>
<li>For liquid fluxes, just drop it on. For paste rosin fluxes, just dab a little on with a Q-tip (cotton ear swab) or toothpick. </li>
<li>Ex. of where to buy: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=solder+flux&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1" target="_blank">Ebay search for "solder flux"</a>--as little as $1 or less.</li>
<ol>
<li>ex: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Sale-10g-Soldering-Solder-Paste-Flux-Cream-Welding-Paste-Rosin-Fragrant-B84U-/360710591528" target="_blank">10g solder paste, $0.99</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/50g-Rosin-Soldering-Flux-Paste-Solder-Welding-Grease-Cream-for-Phone-PCB-LO-/161951046566" target="_blank">50g solder paste rosin flux, $0.99</a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Tip Tinner</span></b><b style="font-size: medium;"> </b>- for helping to clean and tin (coat with solder) oxidized and un-tinned tips; tip tinner is highly corrosive (and poisonous) and will be used VERY rarely (perhaps zero to one times per tip, for the entire life of the tip). It is usually only necessary to use tip tinner if you let a new tip oxidize prior to tinning it, or to tin the tip while heating it for the first time ever (though regular solder <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7kmLMTUN3L1tbCDSw6Ul2IF2_TKVirq0OjwLq_y97Rji-98o-VpMbSS9RAHAT3e-65NyV9ww9ix0fGpY92Adbrcga00WY7EK90XLIG1FDUnSKIdspKiQuqxeaKZ6kC3bZcoFl1KZruA4F/s1600/radio+shack+soldering+tip+tinner+&+cleaner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7kmLMTUN3L1tbCDSw6Ul2IF2_TKVirq0OjwLq_y97Rji-98o-VpMbSS9RAHAT3e-65NyV9ww9ix0fGpY92Adbrcga00WY7EK90XLIG1FDUnSKIdspKiQuqxeaKZ6kC3bZcoFl1KZruA4F/s1600/radio+shack+soldering+tip+tinner+&+cleaner.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
works too if you hold the solder to the tip during the first ever heating cycle), or for re-tinning tips that have been poorly tinned and cared for in the first place. To use the tip tinner, press a hot soldering iron tip into the tinner until the soldering iron tip is nicely tinned, as indicated by a bright, silvery appearance. Again, this is NOT a regular procedure, as you should leave a light coat of solder on your tinned tip after every soldering job, once a tip is properly tinned once.</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=tip+tinner" target="_blank">Amazon search for "tip tinner"</a></li>
<ol>
<li>Ex: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NS4J6BY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00NS4J6BY&linkId=ccc7319d209b76f54b9c0fc03b457f0b" target="_blank">Thermaltronics TMT-TC-2 Lead Free Tip Tinner (20g) in 0.8oz Container</a>, <b>$8</b> on Amazon. </li>
<li>Buy only if you struggle getting your soldering tip tinned. Just roll a hot tip around in the compound (don't breathe the fumes) and it will help eat off oxidation and tin a tough-to-tin tip. </li>
<li>One can should last you many many years.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Helping Hands</span></b></li>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkRlytWJav1YByn3f8gVt8vvF1qzKNYfwASSy0puPEoNPRyIrQ2CxThTdU0gjTeMx17JiYDc6MP3m1c0WlCT4klk0CCXYI_AfEWebSL7dKoPkSfKDno1qh-xgG-9QxpYpZmKdC5pdRcLmD/s1600/helping+hands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkRlytWJav1YByn3f8gVt8vvF1qzKNYfwASSy0puPEoNPRyIrQ2CxThTdU0gjTeMx17JiYDc6MP3m1c0WlCT4klk0CCXYI_AfEWebSL7dKoPkSfKDno1qh-xgG-9QxpYpZmKdC5pdRcLmD/s1600/helping+hands.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">helping hands, from Harbor Freight, $2.99</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html" target="_blank">http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-60501.html</a>, <b>$3 each (<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000RB38X8&linkId=bf5e215b91a0014add64a0b8126e8e77" target="_blank">also on Amazon Prime here for only $8</a><span style="font-weight: normal;">) </span>– BUY 2</b>, you’ll need them. You might even want 3 since they are so useful.</li>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Desoldering Tools</span></b>--the erasers of electronics work (also available at Radio Shack, Amazon, Adafruit.com, etc)</li>
<ol>
<li>Sometimes you make mistakes. This is how you undo them.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/148" target="_blank">Solder sucker from Adafruit</a>, $5</li>
<li><a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=solder+vacuum&_sop=15" target="_blank">Ebay search for “solder vacuum”</a> – I got one for just <b>under $3 </b>here (w/FREE shipping) and it works great!</li>
<li>Ebay search for “desolder braid” - <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=desolder+braid&_sop=15" target="_blank">http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=desolder+braid&_sop=15</a> – I got some 2mm wide stuff from Radio Shack that works fine, but it’s here on Ebay for <b>< $1.</b></li>
<li><b>Hot air rework station</b>: a *must* for some desoldering work, *especially* when desoldering surface mount (SMT [Surface Mount Technology]) components; see the hot air rework station linked to above under the "Soldering Iron" section.</li>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Extras</span></b></li>
<ol>
<li><b>You’ll also need a few basic tools like pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers, etc. Grab these from your local hardware store, or your favorite online retailer. </b>Note: basic wire strippers are probably cheapest from your local hardware store, though <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/527" target="_blank">here's a pair on Adafruit</a> ($12) and <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=28799&aff=281904" target="_blank">here's a pair on HobbyKing</a> (~$3 + ~$5 shipping). Note that these basic wire strippers usually come in two sizes: small (for 20~30 AWG wires) and large (for 8~22 AWG wires). Choose what meets your specific needs.</li>
<li>If you are looking for a really nice set of automatic wire strippers, I *highly* recommend these; they work great!</li>
<ol>
<li><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B000OQ21CA&asins=B000OQ21CA&linkId=cb07af31974523c578be1d4b631124cb&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQ21CA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000OQ21CA&linkId=ea08d75653129d5cf8249ea90549aed2" target="_blank">Irwin Industrial Tools 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips,</a><b> $16</b> <--EXCELLENT PURCHASE! I'VE HAD A PAIR FOR SEVERAL YEARS AND THEY WORK GREAT AND SAVE A LOT OF TIME.</li>
</ol>
<li>For a nice, economical set of flush cutters, I recommend these: </li>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00FZPDG1K&linkId=4e22f5fc6d43cffd2d90cf5e9e78d45c" target="_blank">Hakko CHP-170 Micro Clean Cutter, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity</a>, <b>$6</b> as an Amazon Add-on Item, or <b>$15</b> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017ODDQ06/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B017ODDQ06&linkId=98a0ce05b90e7cfa183df26753b82e54" target="_blank">for two on Prime</a> (sometimes it's nice to have an extra pair).</li>
</ol>
<li><b>Multimeter:</b> great for any electronics work – </li>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH9-NHZUi_cJVOfgBPPE1Iq_NQoK9MpeY3t-WdL6Fd5TzTTWWKxx_NmmAmB2qdOIfm2bwJWqVMHjkh_gDiUhqep56QO-3s2UolDSySilrqsngltfOqVoA0ZSQV-P7uvqbpKhzxxA4LFnQm/s1600/$30+Mastech+MY68+multimeter+on+Amazon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH9-NHZUi_cJVOfgBPPE1Iq_NQoK9MpeY3t-WdL6Fd5TzTTWWKxx_NmmAmB2qdOIfm2bwJWqVMHjkh_gDiUhqep56QO-3s2UolDSySilrqsngltfOqVoA0ZSQV-P7uvqbpKhzxxA4LFnQm/s1600/$30+Mastech+MY68+multimeter+on+Amazon.jpg" width="100" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MY68, $30 on Amazon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ol>
<li><b>(nice, yet economical one)</b> - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J40T3U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000J40T3U&linkId=bdcfc12325769f016668d03f0b114755" target="_blank">Sinometer Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter, MY68</a>, <b>$25</b>; <i>I've had this one for 5+ years; works great! I've briefly compared it to a $130+ Amprobe and Fluke multimeter, and it performs similarly. </i></li>
<li><b>(ultra economical)</b> - <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multimeter" target="_blank">http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multimeter</a> - 7 Function Digital Multimeter from Harbor Freight – often-times available for < <b>$5</b>, or even for FREE at times, with coupons from the mail or in-store. For being $5, these things work great. I have several of them. However, they are definitely not as reliable as the nicer $30 meter above, which is *far* superior.</li>
</ol>
<li>Electro-static-discharge (ESD)-safe tweezers - great for holding and positioning your very fine components onto a PCB (Printed Circuit Board)</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.adafruit.com/search?q=tweezers" target="_blank">$4 on Adafruit - curved or straight variety</a></li>
<li>or <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=vetus+tweezers&_sop=15" target="_blank"><$3 each on Ebay</a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>High-Power Irons (60W+), & Torches </b></span></li>
<ol>
<li>As I alluded to above, sometimes you need a lot of heat. I've soldered stuff where even my 60W iron won't do it. Examples of where you need >60W raw, unregulated heat may include: extremely cold ambient temperatures (ex: 20 deg F in an outdoor work shed in the middle of winter, while soldering large connectors), extremely large connectors or cables (truck-sized jumper cable size or larger), or general metal work (including soldering sheet steel, stained-glass windows, lead or copper pipes [a torch, NOT an iron, is required for pipes], etc). For these cases you need the big boys:</li>
<li><b>60W iron</b> (may work for some of these jobs, but maybe still too weak too), <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NGZK0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0006NGZK0&linkId=c13475fd6ed8cd5e0d5204cd29d0fd1e" target="_blank">$8 on Amazon</a> (as linked to previously above).</li>
<ol>
<li>Would work on very light sheet metal only, and/or small pieces, with acid-core solder and acid flux (see below).</li>
<ol><ol>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>80W iron</b> - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG796/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00B3SG796&linkId=c7e9ea55dbaf7251b334a950277a3b6c" target="_blank">Weller SP80NUS Heavy Duty LED Soldering Iron, $26 on Amazon</a></li>
<ol>
<li>Should work on light sheet metal only, and/or small pieces, with acid-core solder and acid flux (see below).</li>
<ol><ol>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>200W iron</b> - <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SCL6LS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B009SCL6LS&linkId=42d7c22f096fc0764279223ab75d0335" target="_blank">Hakko 557V-V12 200W Matchless Soldering Iron, $73 on Amazon</a></li>
<ol>
<li><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B009SCL6LS&asins=B009SCL6LS&linkId=c8aacc1d59a5bd996386698735d03ac2&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe>Should work on sheet metal and very large-gauge wires.</li>
<ol><ol>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>733W (2500 BTU/hr) ~ 3781W (12900 BTU/hr) torches</b>:</li>
<ol>
<li>For sheet metal, pipes, etc, just buy a torch. They are very inexpensive and produce lots of heat. Great places to buy them include your local hardware superstore, such as <b>Lowes</b> and <b>Home Depot</b> (in the United States). They cost anywhere from <b>$17~$30+</b>. Even the lowest-end<b> $17</b> torch produces <b>2500 BTU/hr</b>, which is the equivalent of <b>733W</b>. Here's a few pictures of the shelves I just took the other day from my local Home Depot. Click to enlarge:</li>
<li><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBOr4s6G3DJB3IcRPEVQuc-XG47k7om-qvdwfPcWcc0l9lQlUpozufNk6LjO5Eqb7q0_bZPYgHYBj6aP-FgJNRZFt6didE2o8Rn7avES2yK6YGEy4kORSgvdGLMNQpFBqZROk62tvrLFzW/s1600/20161117_193843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBOr4s6G3DJB3IcRPEVQuc-XG47k7om-qvdwfPcWcc0l9lQlUpozufNk6LjO5Eqb7q0_bZPYgHYBj6aP-FgJNRZFt6didE2o8Rn7avES2yK6YGEy4kORSgvdGLMNQpFBqZROk62tvrLFzW/s320/20161117_193843.jpg" width="320" /></a></li>
<li><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHl0hESLGfRieG9H2CT1P-XT1Vu7s462QHraHV8KBXnYQHfpRAQp1HgwLJTnOAnKno1v2zQKDYYCpHKQCo0jQ4vu6zyRFcVg1KcbZEUDJo74dj_sHWUGKkXQwl7JXU0zB2Tx7_84EALsa1/s1600/20161117_194002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHl0hESLGfRieG9H2CT1P-XT1Vu7s462QHraHV8KBXnYQHfpRAQp1HgwLJTnOAnKno1v2zQKDYYCpHKQCo0jQ4vu6zyRFcVg1KcbZEUDJo74dj_sHWUGKkXQwl7JXU0zB2Tx7_84EALsa1/s320/20161117_194002.jpg" width="320" /></a></li>
<ol><ol>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Acid-Core Solders, & Acid Fluxes </b></span></li>
<ol>
<li>For <b>stainless steel, galvanized steel, spring steel, etc, and other metal work</b> you cannot get solder to bond without a special acid-based flux. Acid flux eats away the oxidation layer and makes otherwise-unbondable metals bondable. You can even solder stainless steel stranded bicycle brake and shifter cables, for instance, when using the right acid flux. I recommend <b>Harris Stay Clean soldering flux</b>. Its label states it is recommended for <b>copper, brass, bronze, & steel (stainless, nickel-plated, & galvanized), </b>and I have personally tested it on stainless steel and have had great success. </li>
<li>Harris Stay Clean liquid flux:</li>
<ol>
<li>Stay Clean liquid flux consists of <30% zinc chloride, 5-25% ammonium chloride, <5% hydrochloric acid (HCl), <5% methanol, and the remainder is water. Examples of where to purchase include:</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015H6JYS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0015H6JYS&linkId=7a499735b0f2a386101fb53ca67fb050" target="_blank">Sta-Brite silver solder and 1/2 oz Stay Clean flux kit, $11.50 on Amazon</a></li>
<ol>
<li><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B0015H6JYS&asins=B0015H6JYS&linkId=9bb27585d6364177ae564fd2b11e51ef&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe>See <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1ELXTIBXG6WO6" target="_blank">my thorough review here</a>. For only occasional use, 1/2 oz is more than enough. It takes only a drop on a surface to get it to bond. For large quantities, see the next two links:</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015DWPV8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0015DWPV8&linkId=739e08c141c7e9484e4932f29e69a073" target="_blank">Harris SCLF4 Stay Clean Soldering Flux, 4 oz., $8 on Amazon</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HW8E1M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001HW8E1M&linkId=1b4200e6478d01c5fb917d36eca145f0" target="_blank">Harris SCLF16 Stay Clean Soldering Flux, 16 oz., $14 on Amazon</a></li>
</ol>
<li>Harris Stay Clean flux also comes in a <b>paste</b> form. For all liquid and paste options on Amazon, see here: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=stay+clean+flux" target="_blank">Amazon search for "stay clean flux"</a>.</li>
<li><b>Acid-core solders</b> contain acid flux and help to make the bonding process to tough-to-solder metals, like stainless steel, easier:</li>
<ol><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83gRS1QXNEvtqlWCXGPGgsT1e7fS4NxaGaR-QmyEvX-1gkn7aMnpgtr6tSU_GPltk6fDgPLZvGc-nKmJ5hx3pGodldMihyphenhyphenNcIPUMJ96CBSpCbzVJagfvJIrlaPGwtj8DCQ_gCDmJ4n-3o/s1600/20161117_193811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh83gRS1QXNEvtqlWCXGPGgsT1e7fS4NxaGaR-QmyEvX-1gkn7aMnpgtr6tSU_GPltk6fDgPLZvGc-nKmJ5hx3pGodldMihyphenhyphenNcIPUMJ96CBSpCbzVJagfvJIrlaPGwtj8DCQ_gCDmJ4n-3o/s200/20161117_193811.jpg" width="150" /></a>
<li>One example is 3 oz of Bernzomatic acid core metal work solder, sold at <b>Home Depot</b> for <b>$10</b>. Here's a photo I took just the other day in their soldering-torch section:</li>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="color: red;">IMPORTANT NOTES</span></b>: </li>
<ol>
<li>Acid flux is corrosive. If it gets on your skin, wash it off.</li>
<li><b><span style="color: blue;">Since it is corrosive, USE A DEDICATED SOLDERING TIP FOR USE WITH YOUR ACID-CORE SOLDER AND ACID FLUX</span>. It will eat away and destroy your tip, so don't go using your nice electronics tip for acid-based soldering.</b></li>
<li>Acid flux is not recommended for electrical soldering because it can eat through small wires and traces easily while soldering, and generally is just over-kill and is not needed since electrical components are generally very easy to bond to with regular rosin flux and solder. <i>However, sometimes you need to use acid flux for electrical purposes, such as soldering a power wire to a battery spring terminal (which is otherwise impossible to get solder to bond to), or making some special touch pad out of stainless steel, or to solder a wire to a lamp's steel base or something when doing a custom touch-lamp project. </i><b>You get the point. Sometimes using acid flux and solders is necessary for electrical applications. That is fine. Just wash off the excess acid flux when done.</b></li>
<li>As just stated, wash off the excess acid flux when done. Using 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and/or water might be good for this purpose.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Soldering Aluminum:</b></span></li>
<ol>
<li>Aluminum requires special aluminum solder, and aluminum-compatible acid flux. If using a nice soldering iron, be sure to dedicate one of your tips to be used just for soldering aluminum, as it will also eat away and destroy the tip during use. </li>
<li>(TODO: finish this section)</li>
</ol>
<ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><u>How to Tin (coat with solder) a Soldering Iron Tip:</u></b></span><br />
The first time you ever heat a brand-new soldering tip, you need to hold solder to the tip <i>as the iron heats for the very first time</i>. For higher-end pre-plated/pre-tinned soldering iron tips, this is not so important, but for cheapo bare solder tips <i style="font-weight: bold;">this is absolutely critical to getting the tip properly tinned, so pay close attention!</i> <span style="font-size: large;">As the iron heats <i>for the very first time</i></span>, hold solder against the tip. Even if this process takes several minutes while the iron heats, don't look away, don't play on your phone, don't talk to your girlfriend, don't watch YouTube videos, <u>don't do anything else.</u> Just pay attention. <span style="font-size: large;">Once the solder starts to melt, rotate the tip around to get the tip all nicely tinned/coated in solder. As you rotate the tip around, if you lift up the handle so it's higher than the tip, it will allow gravity to make the solder flow down to the very tip of the iron until it drips off the very end.</span> This ensures you get even the very tip of the tip well-tinned so you don't get any oxidized/poor-heat-transfer spots where it matters most. <span style="font-size: large;">If the solder sticks nicely to the tip, you did a good job! If it beads up and won't stick, it's because you messed up--you must have already heated the iron once without tinning the tip, and now the tip is oxidized and solder won't stick.</span> Heat is a catalyst for oxidation, and dramatically increase the rate of oxidation, so not tinning the tip properly during a new tip's<span style="font-size: large;"> <i>first heating</i></span> will allow the tip to oxidize in a matter of seconds, and then when you come back to tin it the solder won't stick.<br />
<br />
If you're in this situation, simply use the "tip tinner" recommended previously in this article. It is acidic/corrosive/highly poisonous, and has ground solder mixed into it, and will eat away the oxidation layer while tinning the tip for you. Just roll the pre-heated iron tip around in the tip tinner and voilá--it will be magically tinned for you in seconds! If you don't have the tip tinner, <i>and if the tip is a cheap tip that does *not* have a nice plating on it, </i>you can sand off the oxidation with fine sand paper or a green dish scrubber pad from the grocery store, and try the tinning process again. <span style="font-size: large;">Be fast though, as oxidation can occur in only a few seconds on a hot tip.</span></div>
<div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><u>Recommended Electronics Soldering Tutorials:</u></span></b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Beginner:</span></b></li>
<ol>
<li>Adafruit's "<a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering?view=all" target="_blank">Adafruit Guide to Excellent Soldering</a>"</li>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSuQNJ1ojvcTDCE4Gx0nDexNyrl2LIyOGfXgAOdezA770PBci-F7mVZTpqnT8vmSjhGW65X84B48AhRdZKH-h5_ctcIZmoIOs1YqhOPFvqw37hANvZW6HGvjBrj-co3fsPlCXyvBYLmcPy/s1600/solder+tracks+-+step+32+on+8x8x8+led+cube.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSuQNJ1ojvcTDCE4Gx0nDexNyrl2LIyOGfXgAOdezA770PBci-F7mVZTpqnT8vmSjhGW65X84B48AhRdZKH-h5_ctcIZmoIOs1YqhOPFvqw37hANvZW6HGvjBrj-co3fsPlCXyvBYLmcPy/s1600/solder+tracks+-+step+32+on+8x8x8+led+cube.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 32: how to make "solder tracks"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<li>Sparkfun's "<a href="https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-solder---through-hole-soldering/all" target="_blank">How to Solder - Through-hole Soldering</a>"</li>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Intermediate:</span></b></li>
<ol>
<li>How to create "solder tracks"/"solder traces" on a prototyping board (<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Led-Cube-8x8x8/step32/Build-the-controller-protoboard-soldering-advice/" target="_blank">see Step 32 of this instructable here</a> [see photo to the right; the order of the process is from bottom to top in the picture]). Also see steps 34-41 for additional pictures of solder tracks on protoboard. (ex: <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Led-Cube-8x8x8/step35/Build-the-controller-Power-rails-and-IC-power/" target="_blank">Step 35</a>, <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Led-Cube-8x8x8/step36/Build-the-controller-Connect-the-ICs-8bit-bus-OE/" target="_blank">Step 36</a>).</li>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="font-size: large;">Advanced:</span></b></li>
<ol>
<li>Adafruit's "<a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/smt-manufacturing?view=all" target="_blank">SMT Manufacturing</a>"; Note: SMT means "Surface Mount Technology"</li>
<li>Sparkfun's "<a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/59" target="_blank">Reflow Skillet</a>"</li>
<li>Hand "drag soldering" demo by John Gammell (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY" target="_blank">YouTube Video "Professional SMT Soldering: Hand Soldering Techniques - Surface Mount"</a>)</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<br />
<span style="color: blue;">THANKS FOR READING!</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Please <a href="http://goo.gl/us6aOe" target="_blank">subscribe to my blog</a> by clicking on the envelope icon in the upper-right-hand corner, and click the other links & icons there to share this site. </span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: blue;">Feel free to leave comments below. Happy soldering!</span><br />
<br />
END</div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-14330769861972275212014-05-31T14:19:00.003-07:002015-09-16T12:55:46.122-07:00eRCaGuy_ButtonReader Library for Arduino - Debounce and read the current button state, & most recent action ("just pressed" or "just released") easily!By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 31 May 2014<br />
Last Updated: 25 July 2015<br />
Article History (newest on top)<br />
-added button image & updated download links - 25 July 2015<br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Articles to Check Out:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> <-- be sure to check out the various really useful Arduino-related links at the bottom of this post! They have helped me a ton.</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter "Library"</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li>All articles on my blog with the label "Arduino" - <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino</a></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">This Article:</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">Library History (newest on top):</span><br />
<br />
20141031: major bug fix; added multi-button support with a new 5-button-reader example!<br />
20140531: first release.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsXOAT5Qt6Sn03-dy3Q5pXtVPsGy28Et2cwAVNN5pohM8LUbVM49GU8UoSVRRiH2Xyigp2rLEmJNSSdmbR_2RRWtZZtnzJgJJYllYA8OkytcCL1SiB7Q9sGD__uBONBfvtJPWOVFvxzlqI/s1600/assorted+buttons+from+ebay_copy.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsXOAT5Qt6Sn03-dy3Q5pXtVPsGy28Et2cwAVNN5pohM8LUbVM49GU8UoSVRRiH2Xyigp2rLEmJNSSdmbR_2RRWtZZtnzJgJJYllYA8OkytcCL1SiB7Q9sGD__uBONBfvtJPWOVFvxzlqI/s200/assorted+buttons+from+ebay_copy.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Misc. push buttons which can greatly<br />
benefit from dig<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">ital debouncing. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">(Image source </span><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-5types-Momentary-Tact-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-SMD-Assortment-Kit-Set-/261316093162" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;" target="_blank">here</a>)<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">Summary:</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span>
<b>I wanted a simple and universal, yet very powerful & reliable library to read a button or switch in such a way that I can <span style="color: blue;">easily implement toggled actions and momentary actions, know the true, debounced state of a button or switch at any given time, and specify whether I want an action to take place when the button is *pressed* or *released.* </span> This library makes implementing all of these things easy for me, and I now use it on all of my projects that require reading a button or switch, so I wanted to share it with others. Hopefully you find it useful too. Check out the included examples. </b><br />
<br />
This code is an elaboration of, and library form of, the <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Debounce" target="_blank">main Arduino-sponsored "Debounce" example found here</a>. Thanks to David A. Mellis, Limor Fried (LadyAda), and Mike Walters for writing that excellent and well-thought-out example code.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Download:</span></b><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<script src="https://gumroad.com/js/gumroad.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
<a class="gumroad-button" href="https://gumroad.com/l/vUCuP" style="background-color: white;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Download eRCaGuy_ButtonReader</span></b></a></div>
<br />
(Optionally) donate, & download via the link just above, or by <a href="https://gumroad.com/gabrielstaples" target="_blank">clicking here</a> then choosing the appropriate download. Install the library into the Arduino IDE (using Sketch --> Include Library --> Add .ZIP Library), then run the examples to see how to use the library.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><b><span style="font-size: large;">List of Functions (see .h and .cpp files in the library for details):</span></b><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li>eRCaGuy_ButtonReader(uint8_t buttonPin,unsigned int debounceDelay,boolean pinStateWhenButtonPressed) //class constructor</li>
<li>setDebounceDelay(unsigned int debounceDelay)</li>
<li>setButtonPin(uint8_t buttonPin)</li>
<li>setPinStateWhenButtonPressed(boolean pinStateWhenButtonPressed)</li>
<li>getDebounceDelay()</li>
<li>readButton(int8_t* button_action, boolean* button_state)</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Example code (may be outdated; refer to example files for latest code):</span></b><br />
<br />
<pre><span style="color: #7e7e7e;">/*</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">readButtonVerbose.ino</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">-This code differs from readButton.ino ONLY in that it also outputs the button status every 0.5 seconds; rather than just outputting the button status when a </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> button *press* or *release* is detected.</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader example</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">By Gabriel Staples</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">30 May 2014</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">Library webpage: http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/05/ercaguybuttonreader-library-for-arduino.html</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">-I wanted a simple and universal, yet very powerful & reliable library to read a button or switch in such a way that I can</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> easily implement toggled actions and momentary actions, know the true, debounced state of a button or switch at any given time, </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> and specify whether I want an action to take place when the button is *pressed* or *released.* This library makes implementing all of</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> these things easy for me, and I now use it on all of my projects that require reading a button or switch, so I wanted to share it with others. </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> Hopefully you find it useful too.</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">License for Library and Examples: GNU Lesser General Public License Version 3 (LGPLv3) - https://www.gnu.org/licenses/lgpl.html</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">-See library .h and .cpp files for details</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">Description:</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">-This example will print out data to the Serial Monitor either: </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> 1) every time the button is pressed, or released, OR</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> 2) every 1/2 second that the button remains in its current state</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;"> --it will also toggle LED 13 every time a button press is detected</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">Circuit:</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">-Connect a button from digital pin 5 to GND</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">--the internal pull-up resistor is enabled on pin 5 to protect the pin from over-current</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">Instructions:</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">Upload the code, open the serial monitor, and play around pressing, releasing, and holding down the button, to see what happens!</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">*/</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//include the library</span>
#include <<span style="color: #cc6600;">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader</span>.h>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//Global Constants:</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//Pins:</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">const</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;">byte</span> buttonPin = 5; <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//the number of the pushbutton pin</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">const</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;">byte</span> ledPin = 13; <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// the number of the LED pin</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//Define Button States:</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">const</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;">boolean</span> BUTTON_PRESSED = <span style="color: #006699;">LOW</span>; <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//if using a pull-up resistor (ex: INPUT_PULLUP) on your button, the buttonPin will be LOW when the button is pressed; </span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">const</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;">boolean</span> BUTTON_NOT_PRESSED = <span style="color: #006699;">HIGH</span>; <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//if using a pull-up resistor (ex: INPUT_PULLUP) on your button, the buttonPin will be HIGH when the button is NOT pressed</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//instantiate an object of this library class; call it "button1"</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//if not explicitly stated, debounceDelay defaults to 50ms, and the _BUTTON_PRESSED value in the library defaults to LOW; see .h file for details</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader</span> button1 = <span style="color: #cc6600;">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader</span>(buttonPin);
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//alternatively, the object instantiation could be explicit, as follows:</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//eRCaGuy_ButtonReader button1 = eRCaGuy_ButtonReader(buttonPin,50,BUTTON_PRESSED);</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">void</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;">setup</span>()
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">begin</span>(115200);
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//configure pins</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">pinMode</span>(buttonPin, <span style="color: #006699;">INPUT_PULLUP</span>);
<span style="color: #cc6600;">pinMode</span>(ledPin, <span style="color: #006699;">OUTPUT</span>);
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// set initial LED state to OFF</span>
toggleLED();
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//configure button1</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//button1.setDebounceDelay(50); //(optional); set debounceDelay to 50ms; uncomment this and increase the debounceDelay if the button_state jitters unexpectedly</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//button1.setButtonPin(buttonPin); //(optional), since this was established during the object instantiation above</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//button1.setPinStateWhenButtonPressed(HIGH); //uncomment this line if using a pull-down resistor on the button or switch instead of the internal pull-up resistor</span>
}
<span style="color: #cc6600;">void</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>loop</b></span>()
{
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//local variables</span>
int8_t button_action; <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//see details below</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">boolean</span> button_state; <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//see details below</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//read button; use the ampersands (&) to pass the address to (pointers to) the variables as input parameters, so that the variables can be updated by the function</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//Details:</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//read the button action, and store it into the button_action variable; and read the button state, & store it into the button_state variable</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//The button state can be 0 or 1, for LOW or HIGH, respectively</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// button action indicates what just happened to the button: </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// 0 = no-change in true, debounced button state since last time reading the button, or debounceDelay time not yet elapsed</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// 1 = button was just pressed by a human operator (debounceDelay had elapsed)</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// -1 = button was just released by a human operator (debounceDelay had elapsed)</span>
button1.<span style="color: #cc6600;">readButton</span>(&button_action,&button_state);
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//output data, & toggle LED</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">if</span> (button_action != 0) <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//if an action has occured on the button</span>
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">print</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">"button_action = "</span>); <span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">print</span>(button_action); <span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">print</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">", "</span>);
<span style="color: #cc6600;">if</span> (button_action==1)
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">print</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">"Button PRESS detected"</span>);
}
<span style="color: #cc6600;">else</span> <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//button_action==-1</span>
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">print</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">"Button RELEASE detected"</span>);
}
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">print</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">"; button_state = "</span>); <span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">print</span>(button_state);
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">print</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">", "</span>);
<span style="color: #cc6600;">if</span> (button_state==BUTTON_PRESSED)
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">println</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">"BUTTON_PRESSED"</span>);
}
<span style="color: #cc6600;">else</span> <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//button_state==BUTTON_NOT_PRESSED</span>
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">println</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">"BUTTON_NOT_PRESSED"</span>);
}
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//toggle the led on every button press</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">if</span> (button_action==1) <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//if button just pressed</span>
{
toggleLED(); <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//turn the LED on if off, and off if on</span>
}
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//alternately, you could comment out the above if statement, and use this one below instead, if you desire to do an action on the *release* of the button</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//instead of on the *press* of the button</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// if (button_action==-1) //if button just released </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// {</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// toggleLED(); //turn the LED on if off, and off if on</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">// }</span>
}
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//THE BELOW SEGMENT OF CODE (else statement) IS COMMENTED OUT FOR readButton.ino, but NOT for readButtonVerbose.ino</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">else</span> <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//button_action==0</span>
{
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//if there is no new action on the button, let's print out the button_state every 0.5 seconds, to see whether the button is currently NOT being pressed, </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//or whether it is being held down continuously</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">static</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;">unsigned</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;">long</span> t_start = <span style="color: #cc6600;">millis</span>(); <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//ms; a time stamp to ensure printouts only happen every 0.5 seconds</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">if</span> (<span style="color: #cc6600;">millis</span>() - t_start >= 500) <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//if 500ms (0.5 sec) has elapsed</span>
{
t_start = <span style="color: #cc6600;">millis</span>(); <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//ms; update</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">if</span> (button_state==BUTTON_PRESSED)
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">println</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">"button is being held down"</span>);
}
<span style="color: #cc6600;">else</span> <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//button_state==BUTTON_NOT_PRESSED</span>
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;"><b>Serial</b></span>.<span style="color: #cc6600;">println</span>(<span style="color: #006699;">"button is just sitting there, NOT pressed"</span>);
}
}
}
} <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//end of loop()</span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//Here you will do something useful, determined by the press or release of the button; I am simply toggling led 13 on and off in order </span>
<span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//to demonstrate one use of a button as a toggle switch</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">void</span> toggleLED()
{
<span style="color: #cc6600;">static</span> <span style="color: #cc6600;">boolean</span> ledState = <span style="color: #006699;">HIGH</span>;
ledState = !ledState; <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//invert led state</span>
<span style="color: #cc6600;">digitalWrite</span>(ledPin, ledState); <span style="color: #7e7e7e;">//write to led</span>
}
</pre>
<br />
<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-91935529536576528272014-05-12T23:57:00.002-07:002020-07-27T07:18:36.939-07:00Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 16+-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)By Gabriel Staples
Written: 13 May 2014<br />
Last Updated: 16 Sept. 2015<br />
<br />
History (newest on top):<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-16 Sept 2015 - changed title from "10-bit to 21-bit ADC..." to "10-bit to 16+-bit ADC..."</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-25 July 2015 - added a brief update below, updated download links</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-17 Feb. 2015 - changed latest link to new release: V2.1 alpha, in <span style="background-color: yellow;">yellow below</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-24 Jan. 2015 - added link to Version 2.0 alpha below...allows sampling rates of ~50+ kHz, and fixed bug to allow >16-bit samples to not have computation errors</span><br />
<br />
<u><b>A Few Other Articles to Check Out:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/05/ercaguybuttonreader-library-for-arduino.html" target="_blank">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader Library for Arduino</a> [JUST UPDATED] - Debounce and read the current button or switch state, & most recent action ("just pressed" or "just released") easily!</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> <-- be sure to check out the various really useful Arduino-related links at the bottom of this post! They have helped me a ton.</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter "Library"</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li>All articles on my blog with the label "Arduino" - <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino</a></li>
</ul>
<b><br /></b>
<span style="font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">This Article:</span><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Using the Arduino Uno’s built-in 10-bit to 16+-bit ADC (Analog to Digital Converter)???</b><br />
--Wait, what did you say!? I thought that Arduinos only had a 10-bit ADC! How can you get, for example, 16-bit resolution out of a 10-bit ADC? Well, the answer is <b><u>oversampling</u></b>. Atmel has written a really good article about it called "<a href="http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc8003.pdf" target="_blank">AVR121 Enhancing ADC resolution by oversampling</a>." <br />
<br />
Before I continue, I'd like to give a special thanks to user "fat16lib," on the Adafruit Forums, who first made this technique known unto me <a href="https://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=11597&start=15#p83509" target="_blank">by his post right here</a>, thereby inspiring me to write this, my first ever, library. <br />
<br />
Now on to the library:<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: lime;">------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span><br />
<b><span style="background-color: lime;">27 May 2014: Update:</span> </b><span style="background-color: white;">With a ton of help from Ray Benitez, of </span><a href="http://hackscribble.github.io/" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">Hackscribble</a><span style="background-color: white;">, I am still evaluating the practicality & legitimacy of oversampling, via experimental data collection & analysis, in order to see if it really is increasing the precision to the degree I am claiming/hoping.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span>
<b style="background-color: lime;">Update: 11 July 20</b><span style="background-color: lime;"><b>14</b>:</span><span style="background-color: white;"> I still plan on doing much more testing with my library, when I get the chance, and working on it to refine and validate it a lot more. I want to know for myself, with certainty, how well it really is or isn't working, and what its limitations are. One of the refinements I will make, for instance, will be to speed up the Arduino ADC from ~8kHz max sample rate to ~54kHz max sample rate, by changing the ADCSRA register to have an ADC prescaler of 16 instead of 128 (thanks to Simon Monk, pg. 82 of "</span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Programming-Arduino-Next-Steps-Sketches/dp/0071830251" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">Going Further with Sketches</a><span style="background-color: white;">" for teaching me about this). This way, I can see if reading the ADC faster affects the results produced by oversampling. It will also be nice to just not have to wait so long for high-bit ADC reads that require tons of 10-bit samples to get one high-bit sample. Meanwhile, if you are concerned about whether or not my library truly produces higher-precision ADC reads, you might just consider buying a 12 or 16-bit ADC from Adafruit. They look really nice. I will be using these myself to test my library eventually, in conjunction with an LTC1650CN 16-bit DAC to produce a signal to test. As part of my test, I will vary the reference pin source from a noisy voltage regulator to a clean, dedicated reference IC chip. This way, I can see how the noise affects the results. Also, as part of my testing, I'll modify my library to introduce random noise (via software) to the analog readings, to see how that affects oversampling (It's possible that introducing just the right magnitude of random noise will increase precision of the oversampling process). </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Anyway, here's the Adafruit ADCs! </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">12-bit ($10): <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/1083" target="_blank">https://www.adafruit.com/products/1083</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">16-bit ($15): <a href="https://www.adafruit.com/products/1085" target="_blank">https://www.adafruit.com/products/1085 </a></span><br />
<br />
<b style="background-color: lime;">Update: 25 July 2015</b><span style="background-color: lime;">:</span><span style="background-color: white;"> <b>The library works. It flat out works. You do get extra precision. How much? A few bits. I still need to do more testing, and I have plans to further refine the library, but the point is, if you only need a few extra bits of precision, this library can replace the need for buying a higher-resolution external ADC. I've received several emails from people (and some comments below) telling me their success stories in using this library. </b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: lime;">------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Download:</span></b><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="background-color: yellow;">UPDATE 17 Feb 20</b><span style="background-color: yellow;"><b>15: </b><b>Version 2.1 beta available now!</b></span></span><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><script src="https://gumroad.com/js/gumroad.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
<a class="gumroad-button" href="https://gumroad.com/l/YbAkt">Download eRCaGuy_NewAnalogRead</a></span></b></div>
<ul>
<li>Click the above link, optionally donate (just set the price you want to pay to $0 if you like), & download the library. You may also <a href="https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/5854741938955568545/5667561028069690045#">click here</a>, then choose the appropriate download. </li>
<ul>
<li>For the email address field, you may enter <b>none@gmail.com</b> if you like. Or, enter your real email if you want to receive an email with the download link, and if you don't mind if I send you an occasional email with something I'm working on (perhaps a few times a year or so).</li>
</ul>
<li>Install the library into the Arduino IDE (using Sketch --> Include Library --> Add .ZIP Library), then run the examples to see how to use the library.</li>
<li>GitHub: <a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit">https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><b>V2.1 changes</b>: this is a major overhaul of the library. You now have the option to sample at ~50+khz when doing 10-bit samples, and I resolved a bug which prevented >16-bit readings from outputting correctly. This version is still in the works, but is significantly better than V1.0. There is one thorough example contained in the library, so read it to see how to use the new functions. </span><b>If you still have V1.0 of the library, from previous downloads, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS 2.1 VERSION OVER THE ORIGINAL eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit V1.0 alpha LIBRARY.</b><span style="background-color: white;"> More examples to come.</span><br />
<br />
Keep reading below:<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Basically, here's how oversampling works:</span></b><br />
<br />
For every n extra bits of precision that you want, you have to take 4^n samples at the base 10-bit precision. You then sum all of the readings, and divide the sum by 2^n, by doing a bit-shift on the sum, to the right, n places (ie: sum >> n). 10-bit precision has an analogRead() range of 0-1023. 11-bit precision has an analogRead() range of 0-2046, 12-bit has a range of 0-4092, etc. <br />
<br />
Each time you increase the resolution by 1-bit, you double the precision. So, if you want 11-bit precision, that's 1 bit more than the standard 10-bits, so you have to take 4^1, or 4 samples at the standard 10-bit resolution. You then sum the samples and divide by 2^1, or 2. This now gives you a maximum value of 1023*4/2 = 2046. If you want 16-bit precision, n = 6, so you need 4^6 = 4096 samples at the standard 10-bit resolution. You sum them and divide by 2^6 = 64. Your analogRead() max reading possible is now 4096*1023/64 = 65472. <br />
<br />
<b>Here's a nice table to sum it up. You can find this spreadsheet in my library folder when you download it [<span style="background-color: yellow;">25 July 2015 Update: Though this table is still useful to get the point across, I need to make significant updates to the table to bring it up to speed with the new performance of the V2.1 library. This table is no longer correct, but you'd still be wise to read and understand it</span>].</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglnm_nbdaD58AR_DMxX4_2a5Y2jMcPRboikXmFATml_5AwBiAIqUp-NmZnkIx2QqGyNmwvFVIA0vi46Yya9mHLAiXCd4XHfe2aO05TCKSQ4iO1OuT1P59BZLlQdRj961ZL8fcnZOny7s5I/s1600/eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit+Library+table+of+calcs.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglnm_nbdaD58AR_DMxX4_2a5Y2jMcPRboikXmFATml_5AwBiAIqUp-NmZnkIx2QqGyNmwvFVIA0vi46Yya9mHLAiXCd4XHfe2aO05TCKSQ4iO1OuT1P59BZLlQdRj961ZL8fcnZOny7s5I/s1600/eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit+Library+table+of+calcs.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
==========================================================<br />
<b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">OLD LIBRARY VERSION EXAMPLE CODE:</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit V1.0 alpha:</span></b><br />
==========================================================<br />
Using this concept, I have written a nice little library to tidy it all up and demonstrate oversampling. I call it "eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit." The main function is:<br />
<br />
<b><i>analogReadXXbit(uint8_t analogPin, uint8_t bits_of_precision, unsigned long num_samples_to_avg)</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
I named it after the standard Arduino function, analogRead(), but I added the "XXbit" to indicate that you can specify the # of bits of precision you want from the ADC when doing the read. <span style="background-color: lime;">You can input a <b>bits_of_precision</b> value from 10 to 21! </span><br />
<br />
Here is a simple sample code:<br />
<br />
<pre><code class="arduino" title="Use arrow keys to easily scroll left/right or up/down.">
/*
Circuit:
We need to read an analog voltage on A0, so place a pot with the outer legs going to 5V and GND,
respectively, and the wiper (middle leg) going to A0
-make sure to set your Serial Monitor to 115200 baud rate
*/
//include the library
#include <eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit.h>
//instantiate an object of this library class; call it "adc"
eRCaGuy_analogReadXXbit adc;
//Global constants
//constants required to determine the voltage at the pin
const float MAX_READING_10_bit = 1023.0;
const float MAX_READING_11_bit = 2046.0;
const float MAX_READING_12_bit = 4092.0;
const float MAX_READING_13_bit = 8184.0;
const float MAX_READING_14_bit = 16368.0;
const float MAX_READING_15_bit = 32736.0;
const float MAX_READING_16_bit = 65472.0;
const float MAX_READING_17_bit = 130944.0;
const float MAX_READING_18_bit = 261888.0;
const float MAX_READING_19_bit = 523776.0;
const float MAX_READING_20_bit = 1047552.0;
const float MAX_READING_21_bit = 2095104.0;
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(115200);
Serial.println(F("Oversampling example to get 10-bit to 21-bit resolution using a "
"10-bit ADC on an Arduino"));
Serial.println("Ultra Basic demo");
Serial.println(""); //add a line space
}
void loop()
{
//local variables
int pin = A0; //analogRead pin
int bits_of_precision = 16; //must be a value between 10 and 21
int num_samples = 1;
//take a reading on pin A0, getting the avg. of [num_samples] 16-bit readings
float analog_reading = adc.analogReadXXbit(pin, bits_of_precision, num_samples);
//output results
Serial.print("analog_reading = ");
Serial.println(analog_reading);
Serial.print("Voltage = ");
Serial.print(5.0*analog_reading/MAX_READING_16_bit, 5); //display up to 5 digits of precision
Serial.println("V");
Serial.println("");
//wait a bit before taking another reading
delay(500);
}
</code></pre>
<br />
You will see several other examples in the library.<br />
<br />
Happy coding!<br />
<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-23378690593578599352014-04-20T08:32:00.001-07:002014-06-29T19:36:12.214-07:00TED Talk - Massimo Banzi: How Arduino is open-sourcing imaginationBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 20 April 2014<br />
Last Updated: 20 April 2014<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> <-- be sure to check out the various really useful Arduino-related links at the bottom of this post! They have helped me a ton.</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter "Library"</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a></li>
<li>All articles on my blog with the label "Arduino" - <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/search/label/Arduino</a></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">This Article:</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;"><br /></span>
<b>Watch the talk! </b><br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" scrolling="no" src="http://embed.ted.com/talks/massimo_banzi_how_arduino_is_open_sourcing_imagination.html" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe>
<br />
<b>Enough said. :)</b><br />
<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-89992977181236339742014-04-12T23:57:00.000-07:002015-06-01T16:21:11.154-07:00Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation - Part 2 of 2 - How Did I Come Up With This Equation?By Gabriel Staples
Written: 12 April 2014<br />
Last Updated: 1 June 2015<br />
-added Figure #s - 1 June 2015<br />
-made some minor additions & formatting changes, incl. adding more info. about future work & possibly considering some blade element theory techniques - 13 Apr. 2014<br />
-minor units correction - 16 Apr. 2014<br />
-minor addition to section describing prop helical twist - 29 Apr. 2014<br />
-additions & corrections to the bold portions of the "Application & Conjecturing" section - 4 May 2014<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/09/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation.html" target="_blank">Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation - Part 1 of 2</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/04/aim-high.html" target="_blank">Aim High</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter "Library"</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
<b><u><br /></u></b>
<b><u>This Article:</u></b><br />
<br />
Since posting my initial "Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation" post, I have had many questions about where this equation comes from, and several requests to explain more. I have even had college students ask me about the equation. Additionally, this is my most popular post at the moment and is getting over 700 views per month, with the bulk of those hits being from Google Search results about propeller thrust. So, I think it's time I explain more about the background of the equation. Here goes.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">First off, here's the nomenclature I will use:</span></b><br />
<b></b><br />
<a name='more'></a><b>Nomenclature used in this article:</b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
F = thrust (N)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<!--[if gte msEquation 12]><m:oMath><m:acc><m:accPr><m:chr
m:val="̇"/><span style='font-family:"Cambria Math","serif";mso-ascii-font-family:
"Cambria Math";mso-hansi-font-family:"Cambria Math";font-style:italic;
mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><m:ctrlPr></m:ctrlPr></span></m:accPr><m:e><i
style='mso-bidi-font-style:normal'><span style='font-family:"Cambria Math","serif"'><m:r>m</m:r></span></i></m:e></m:acc></m:oMath><![endif]--><!--[if !msEquation]--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-text-raise: -3.0pt; position: relative; top: 3.0pt;"><v:shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" filled="f" id="_x0000_t75" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" stroked="f"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:formulas><v:path gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect" o:extrusionok="f"><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:path></v:stroke></v:shapetype><v:shape id="_x0000_i1025" style="height: 14.25pt; width: 10.5pt;" type="#_x0000_t75"><v:imagedata chromakey="white" o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\Gabriel\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.png"></v:imagedata></v:shape></span><!--[endif]-->m_dot =
mass flow rate (kg/s)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
V<sub>e</sub> = exit velocity of the
airflow through the propeller (sometimes called the <i>induced</i>
velocity, inflow velocity, or velocity <i>induced</i> by the propeller) (m/s)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
V<span style="font-size: x-small;">ac</span> = aircraft airspeed/velocity
(<i>not</i> ground speed) (m/s)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
V<sub>pitch</sub> = propeller pitch speed (m/s)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
ρ
= air density (<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">kg/m<sup>3</sup></span>)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A = area through propeller, normal to
airflow (ie: area that the propeller sweeps) (m<sup>2</sup>)<o:p></o:p><br />
P = pressure (Pa, N/m<sup>2</sup>, or kg/(m*s<sup>2</sup>))<br />
SLUF = Steady, Level, Unaccelerated Flight<br />
<br />
<b>Here is some nomenclature *not* used explicitly in this article, but you should at least be aware of it:</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
η<sub>prop</sub>
= propeller efficiency (-)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
η<sub>motor&prop</sub>
= power system efficiency (of the motor, propeller, ESC, and wiring combined)
(-)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="PT-BR">L = lift (N, or kg*m/s<sup>2</sup>)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="PT-BR">D = drag (N, or kg*m/s<sup>2</sup>)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
W = weight (kg)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
C<sub>L</sub> = lift coefficient (-)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
C<sub>D</sub> = drag coefficient (-)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
q = dynamic pressure (Pa, N/m<sup>2</sup>,
or kg/(m*s<sup>2</sup>))<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
S
= aircraft planform area (m<sup>2</sup>); could also be used as propeller planform area when looking at a propeller as a wing</div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Background Equations</span></b><br />
To get started, we must go all the way back to Newton. Many people say that Newton's 2nd Law states that "force equals mass times acceleration:" F = ma. This is not quite what his law really states. Rather, this is only a very special case of Newton's 2nd Law. Newton's 2nd Law really states that "force is equal to the time rate of change of momentum," or F = d(mv)/dt, where momentum is mass times velocity, or mv. In many cases, mass is constant, so it can be removed from the derivative, and you get the following:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtqpzdDN2K-sz2j2zFsBurqgsRB5rsgobQAJXg2VO3Pg9_Zjnn8xriPhaiRDUvKew2_Qvios8-AIWAHHw5l4HhEQbTE4FTJrdMKJdevwmG_kKCgJ8JGJMrPsnGsdZskBKgocYELdHY9BzU/s1600/Newton's+2nd+law+eqn.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="80" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtqpzdDN2K-sz2j2zFsBurqgsRB5rsgobQAJXg2VO3Pg9_Zjnn8xriPhaiRDUvKew2_Qvios8-AIWAHHw5l4HhEQbTE4FTJrdMKJdevwmG_kKCgJ8JGJMrPsnGsdZskBKgocYELdHY9BzU/s1600/Newton's+2nd+law+eqn.PNG" title="" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 1: Newton's 2nd Law, where <i>mass </i>is held constant.</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I should probably bring up Newton's 3rd Law here, which states that "for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction." A propeller produces thrust by accelerating air molecules. If we could measure the acceleration of each air molecule by the propeller, and also know the mass of each molecule being accelerated, then the thrust produced by each air molecule would be the mass of the molecule times the acceleration of the molecule. The total thrust of the propeller would be the sum of all of the individual thrusts produced by all of the air molecules being accelerated at any given instant. Remember that to get F = ma above, we had to assume that <i>the mass of each molecule is constant</i>. What happens, however, if we look at the problem a bit differently and assume that the velocity of each molecule is constant instead? This brings us to our second approach.<br />
<br />
A second approach is to consider a <i>mass flow rate</i>, or m_dot (written as m with a dot over it), instead. Any time you see a dot over a variable, that means it is the derivative of the variable with respect to (w.r.t.) time. So, m_dot = dm/dt. Its units are kg/sec. If we take Newton's 2nd Law and hold the velocity of each molecule constant instead, we get the following:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIprOv8rWCN5wMHGLInp-xtkdp9mf1Wee-w8Y9aRE8nvIhgAXMvuGcWz-Hfehn_vWsX9xSySJVCNTVxN5CpwzHV-bw0LSZbfUCV8gIJKqYqBpsF_aY8-t0GB8hIhsOw_oubG_tTz-VJ69N/s1600/Newton's+2nd+law+eqn+(const+vel).PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIprOv8rWCN5wMHGLInp-xtkdp9mf1Wee-w8Y9aRE8nvIhgAXMvuGcWz-Hfehn_vWsX9xSySJVCNTVxN5CpwzHV-bw0LSZbfUCV8gIJKqYqBpsF_aY8-t0GB8hIhsOw_oubG_tTz-VJ69N/s1600/Newton's+2nd+law+eqn+(const+vel).PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 2: Newton's 2nd Law, where <i>velocity</i> is held constant.</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now, we are considering the air molecules to have a <i>mass flow rate</i> through a propeller, at a constant velocity. This is a very common starting point for jet propulsion engineers and rocket scientists, as this equation is very common in both of those fields. For a static aircraft, we know that all of the velocity of the air molecules passing through a propeller contributes to the thrust since the air molecules started out stationary, and were accelerated to this velocity. <br />
<br />
Therefore, propeller thrust, F, for a stationary (static) aircraft is:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcs0LFxpK3uGt-HgCkEm9cSrhvvwrbrnnRne4eTtdbqaU6ned5ryyfI9bUMv1DLzL6gpy5TZUWMfUdxH3CG3gGeKXG-jgys3x9a0SVzF6MEtTBCzqypVNGh691e1SJ1EJLfdo1DyHLkX50/s1600/Static+Thrust+eqn.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcs0LFxpK3uGt-HgCkEm9cSrhvvwrbrnnRne4eTtdbqaU6ned5ryyfI9bUMv1DLzL6gpy5TZUWMfUdxH3CG3gGeKXG-jgys3x9a0SVzF6MEtTBCzqypVNGh691e1SJ1EJLfdo1DyHLkX50/s1600/Static+Thrust+eqn.PNG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 3: Theoretical static thrust</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
For a moving aircraft, however, only the velocity of the air which is due to the air having been <i>accelerated</i> by the propeller is what contributes to the thrust. In other words, only the <i>change of velocity</i> is what matters:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMPZ5XupueDE9SCtjqjtrmOafttxrwoAHp74Q8BKdbKsk7UgrxuRNAmpapbj5bSoWMnwwTsfjCkaGrjeno8BvurTXPzu066vPRIDeHr6MlB3nzbIzMMShX6L-341aJAPKbHntglvcvBzYG/s1600/dynamic+thrust.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="40" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMPZ5XupueDE9SCtjqjtrmOafttxrwoAHp74Q8BKdbKsk7UgrxuRNAmpapbj5bSoWMnwwTsfjCkaGrjeno8BvurTXPzu066vPRIDeHr6MlB3nzbIzMMShX6L-341aJAPKbHntglvcvBzYG/s1600/dynamic+thrust.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 4: Theoretical dynamic thrust</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Note that based on this equation, as the
aircraft velocity, V<span style="font-size: x-small;">ac</span>, increases, thrust decreases. This is due to the fact that the propeller
exit velocity (or <i>induced</i> velocity) is approximately constant,
and therefore the result of (V<sub>e</sub> – V<span style="font-size: x-small;">ac</span>) approaches zero as
the aircraft top speed is reached.<br />
<br />
Since m_dot is equal to the density of the air times the cross-sectional area through which the air is flowing, times the velocity of the air, we get:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH2ynskGtzY9WFkqPfhbhLzttpbz03pyrpST3TgF023ItbCzok14NAuSdpof2JnZgmiklhwWPNbe7EW6zP0fQHj50Ax848idf8fwH7PyQBGWm4ouXovWv9RrwEhVo4t0VnG13bFRKvXjAm/s1600/next+eqn+(knowing+m_dot).PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="43" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH2ynskGtzY9WFkqPfhbhLzttpbz03pyrpST3TgF023ItbCzok14NAuSdpof2JnZgmiklhwWPNbe7EW6zP0fQHj50Ax848idf8fwH7PyQBGWm4ouXovWv9RrwEhVo4t0VnG13bFRKvXjAm/s1600/next+eqn+(knowing+m_dot).PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 5: m_dot (left) & thrust w/m_dot plugged in (right)</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
where A is the cross-sectional area, or the rotor disc area covered by a spinning propeller. A is therefore the area of a circle:</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJYs2QJpGdooBqq5pfsMcgy-brA3JKYy4oZd07NdWWUe9aGv1KY0hULfgyr6RTxJBoIJt2Lw3ViJr2gIbHLoEqIvhABRZi515uggh-Ua-G_vUPjLoutFP59bfPOWuFZoCpscaiMwbLGtGR/s1600/area+of+a+circle.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="77" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJYs2QJpGdooBqq5pfsMcgy-brA3JKYy4oZd07NdWWUe9aGv1KY0hULfgyr6RTxJBoIJt2Lw3ViJr2gIbHLoEqIvhABRZi515uggh-Ua-G_vUPjLoutFP59bfPOWuFZoCpscaiMwbLGtGR/s1600/area+of+a+circle.PNG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 6: Area of a circle</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
where r is the propeller radius, and d is the propeller diameter, in units of meters.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Substituting in A above, we get the following for the theoretical propeller dynamic thrust equation:<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcLWiXnwSBHzKbaEOioKbc60tHGRzirjNTbxI8lDLXkY_XS5gSXzpVmW3RuViSxtky_dUVB8TrXskBYMZ_vsQgT97VfFIkByYUxCC_rVHkCZ_knQbC1t0CCuFg5-jbR0X5DdQJj5kTDYD/s1600/prop+thrust+w-m_dot+and+A.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="70" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcLWiXnwSBHzKbaEOioKbc60tHGRzirjNTbxI8lDLXkY_XS5gSXzpVmW3RuViSxtky_dUVB8TrXskBYMZ_vsQgT97VfFIkByYUxCC_rVHkCZ_knQbC1t0CCuFg5-jbR0X5DdQJj5kTDYD/s1600/prop+thrust+w-m_dot+and+A.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 7: Theoretical propeller dynamic thrust equation with area substituted in</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Simplifying, by factoring the area term out we get: </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiab07QQBHvv7IMO-ZHm1idBrA5lysx0CWMcgxKW79VDWRZtHUoneoFQoIXvYi9rn59acUW4HUEkckUYTY2fHovekIUGiFWCEKFKTDadWdFy9B1RTjRc1RcchaIAVEM0Do7hj5_jSK9PEVg/s1600/prop+thrust+eqn+boxed.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="90" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiab07QQBHvv7IMO-ZHm1idBrA5lysx0CWMcgxKW79VDWRZtHUoneoFQoIXvYi9rn59acUW4HUEkckUYTY2fHovekIUGiFWCEKFKTDadWdFy9B1RTjRc1RcchaIAVEM0Do7hj5_jSK9PEVg/s1600/prop+thrust+eqn+boxed.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 8: Theoretical propeller dynamic thrust calculation</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Remember, V<sub>e</sub> is the exit velocity of the air, or the
induced velocity of the air by a propeller, through a propeller, and Vac is the
aircraft velocity (or, more specifically and accurately stated, the freestream
velocity). F is thrust, ρ is air density, and d is the
propeller diameter.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<!--[if gte msEquation 12]><m:oMathPara><m:oMath><b
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V<sub>e</sub> is assumed to be approximately equal to the
pitch speed of the propeller. The pitch of an RC propeller is a unit, usually in inches, and represents the theoretical distance <i>forward</i> which a propeller would move, based on its pitch angle, if it were rotated exactly one revolution in a magical air which is more like Jell-O. Pitch speed is solely dependent upon the propeller RPMs
and pitch, and is as follows:</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifpZrVUKJzi7g1CybG9ffmzZ2RLEfZfQXkR9qz2EhbV4PiacTyYTt-IQB45IuAZ_rCgPdjUva6mvFCZp0yQbIn9EoznDafWaM_ojCW2cRs1yJzF6cou-ailaqUWMtT9EhSd1mmB8Kl0ySQ/s1600/pitch+speed.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="64" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifpZrVUKJzi7g1CybG9ffmzZ2RLEfZfQXkR9qz2EhbV4PiacTyYTt-IQB45IuAZ_rCgPdjUva6mvFCZp0yQbIn9EoznDafWaM_ojCW2cRs1yJzF6cou-ailaqUWMtT9EhSd1mmB8Kl0ySQ/s1600/pitch+speed.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 9: Propeller pitch speed</b></td></tr>
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Now, you can plug the pitch speed (Eqn. 9) into Eqn. 8, in place of Ve, to get an initial estimate for propeller thrust. If you do this, however, you'll notice that the equation comes up with absolutely horrible estimates, and doesn't even show the appropriate trends for how thrust changes with varying diameter and pitch propellers. Global trends are good when looking at changing diameter <i>or</i> pitch, independently, but if you look at changing diameter and pitch together, trends are not correct. So, here comes the hard part, but first, let's briefly talk about the air density term.</div>
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To get air density, ρ,
you <i>could</i> use the <b>ideal gas law, P = ρRT</b>. Using this equation you can solve for density, rho, then plug in P, R, and T. You can get P and T, respectively, by measuring static air pressure and
temperature of the air where the propeller is being tested. If you don't have an absolute pressure transducer, or a barometer, you can get static air pressure from a local weather station, using this equation:</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIbwthcsOkXLE2-cXB3lZOCRhEoeyuFw6bbwgp1M3tvJEP809WVmQzBejieaqtLNU7hWxfdmasir5EtVj1PCvbsENSBYuesBzsP0K_bzly34HbJXWfoo_yg0FFUgAxRTYRpGb6Ft0p_sK3/s1600/weather+station+static+pressure.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="54" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIbwthcsOkXLE2-cXB3lZOCRhEoeyuFw6bbwgp1M3tvJEP809WVmQzBejieaqtLNU7hWxfdmasir5EtVj1PCvbsENSBYuesBzsP0K_bzly34HbJXWfoo_yg0FFUgAxRTYRpGb6Ft0p_sK3/s1600/weather+station+static+pressure.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 10: Converting the local weather station pressure to the actual static <br />pressure at that weather station’s altitude</b></td></tr>
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where w.s. = “weather
station.”</div>
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You can, of course, get temperature from a thermometer or from the local weather station too. Make sure temperature is in Kelvin, and pressure in Pascals. <b>R is the specific gas constant of air, or 287 J/(kg*K)</b>.</div>
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This equation is essential since all weather
stations provide only static pressures <i>corrected for altitude, </i>as
opposed to true, raw static pressures. </div>
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To keep things simple, however, and primarily since I have no idea what the static pressures were during each of the thrust data points I collected from other sources, I just had to assume sea level
standard day, so I assumed that air density, <b>ρ
= 1.225 kg/m<sup>3</sup></b>. </div>
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Now, setting Vac to zero, we have the following for the static thrust calculation, with all pieces plugged in, and prop diameter, <i>d</i>, and prop pitch, <i>pitch</i>, being in units of <u>inches</u>,
and thrust, F, coming out in units of newtons (N). The 0.0254 is a conversion factor to convert inches to meters, since there are 0.0254m/in.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqHOhaTeVqFCYRLKwS5OiOB_N-XaC4HSkBQgfoN31wvY0V28rsyW96dkZjUXPcAygWNoODOtPyl_9x_w1nibdSqK4pj17m64FqkmCnTLSKKbmYRIae8Dq6-GA3yV_SDBN-E51DSXYAbErR/s1600/final+static+thrust,+no+correction.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="84" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqHOhaTeVqFCYRLKwS5OiOB_N-XaC4HSkBQgfoN31wvY0V28rsyW96dkZjUXPcAygWNoODOtPyl_9x_w1nibdSqK4pj17m64FqkmCnTLSKKbmYRIae8Dq6-GA3yV_SDBN-E51DSXYAbErR/s1600/final+static+thrust,+no+correction.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 11: Final theoretical static thrust calculation</b></td></tr>
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At this point it is time to figure out empirical correction factors.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Theoretical to Empirical: Making the Equations Work For Real Life</span></b></div>
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At this point we are ready to find empirical, or based on experimental data, correction factors to make the thrust equation accurate. Now that it is based on some physics, we have something to start with. However, it is important to note that the thrust equation derived above has some huge assumptions. For instance, the assumption that induced velocity is approximately equal to pitch speed (Ve <span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">≈ </span>Vpitch) is far from real life. Not only is it unrealistic, but we also need to realize that the inflow velocity isn't even constant across the cross-sectional inflow area, or rotor disc area. </div>
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The helical twist on the propeller is an attempt to make the inflow velocity constant across the rotor disc area, but due to many factors, it is not. Some of these factors include:</div>
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<b>1)</b> Non-constant inflow velocity profile across the propeller: I'd have to double-check to find the precise value, but to make my point: the majority of the thrust is produced somewhere around the 70% span, measured as 0.7 x r from the propeller hub, towards the propeller tip, where r is the prop. radius. This is for some of the following reasons: the propeller is like a wing moving through the air, where the lift (thrust in this case) is proportional to the square of the linear velocity of the air striking the wing. The linear velocity of the air striking the propeller is linearly proportional to the distance from the hub. Therefore, maximum linear velocity occurs at the propeller tip, and at the center of the hub, it is zero. To compensate for this velocity difference, the helical twist is such that the propeller near the tip will have a relatively low angle of attack to the air, but the propeller near the hub will have to have a much higher angle of attack to the air. However, the motor gets in the way at the hub, no blade can exist at the hub, and even if blade could exist at the hub, the linear velocity at the hub is zero. So, around the hub will be a low-flow zone. Additionally, the angle of attack of the propeller blades near the hub may be high enough that the blade is stalled in that region. A stalled blade can still produce thrust, but not nearly as much as an unstalled blade, and not nearly as efficiently. Around the propeller tips, the inflow velocity will also suffer due to energy losses due to propeller tip vortices. Therefore, the maximum inflow velocity, and consequently, thrust, occurs somewhere around the 70%~80% radial span of the prop, measured from hub to tip.</div>
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<b>2)</b> Number of propeller blades affects the "grab" of the blades on the air, which affects how close the air will get to approaching the propeller pitch speed. More blades = better "grab" on the air, which means higher Ve, but it also means more blockage to inflow velocity. Each additional blade decreases propeller efficiency, while increasing raw (total) thrust. Eventually, by adding too many propeller blades, you will have blocked too much of the inflow area and caused so much additional skin friction and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parasitic_drag" target="_blank">parasitic drag</a>, that total thrust will begin decreasing rather than increasing as you add additional blades.</div>
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<b>3)</b> Propeller blade chord, planform area, and shape--I don't even take these things into account at all in my equation, as I wanted to keep the equation simple.</div>
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These are just two factors I can think of, but the point is that (Ve <span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">≈ </span>Vpitch) is truly a poor assumption. Since it's the best I've got, however, I'll work with it.</div>
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At this point I started collecting static thrust data, from as many sources as I could find, to develop my empirical correction constants. I needed to know at a bare minimum the propeller pitch, diameter, and RPMs, as well as the measured thrust for each data point. I ended up finding 149 static thrust data points to use, from places like <a href="http://www.osengines.com/motors/motor-specifications.pdf" target="_blank">OS engines</a>, <a href="http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/images/MicroV3-Stats.jpg" target="_blank">Grayson Hobby</a>, and even HobbyKing, pulling a few of the data points straight out of the user reviews. </div>
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Here are the 149 data points, for a whole variety of propeller sizes and RPMs. The thrust values above 4kg were for large aircraft, some running gasoline engines and wooden props I think, but most from OSEngines, running electric motors on 6~7S LiPos. The low line of values along the bottom right, going up past 22,000 RPMs, were the values from Grayson Hobby, as <a href="http://www.rcpowers.com/community/pages/home/" target="_blank">RCPowers</a> (their affiliates), like to use very high-kV motors and small 5x5~6x4 props on their parkjets, which makes for very high RPMs but relatively low static thrusts. The bulk of the data, in the "cloud" around 7,000~12,000 RPMs, is primarily from the OSEngines page previously linked above. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyDmlJjrWPKk79aTfA0qUzuuKp-4AOzOHsaodDsIzFYZ2NMYBcOA_EafT4pwlJOSdukex_ywoQpm3fI3D9TSAXc70kzJwqi_OAyz7BxXE4dkYCAjS0Fe7gGRoogdN3jMLetg71Gn8ywH9/s1600/Calculated+vs+Actual+Static+Thrust.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyDmlJjrWPKk79aTfA0qUzuuKp-4AOzOHsaodDsIzFYZ2NMYBcOA_EafT4pwlJOSdukex_ywoQpm3fI3D9TSAXc70kzJwqi_OAyz7BxXE4dkYCAjS0Fe7gGRoogdN3jMLetg71Gn8ywH9/s1600/Calculated+vs+Actual+Static+Thrust.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Figure 1: Calculated vs. measured static thrust, for various props and RPMs</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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When I first plotted my estimates, compared to the actual thrust values, my estimates were *not* as you see them on the plot now. Rather, they were far off of the real values. To correct my equation I did the following:</div>
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First, I logically
deduced (or rather hypothesized) that both the thrust, and also efficiency, of
a prop must be related to its diameter to pitch ratio, since the <i>diameter</i>
of a prop directly affects the incident (tangential) velocity (and hence also
dynamic pressure and Reynold’s number) of air striking the blade at any given
location of radial distance, r, from the hub.
Hence, larger diameter props will have not only increased thrust, but
also increased <i>efficiency</i> over a prop of the same pitch but smaller
diameter, since Re will be higher (and flow remain more attached) as you
increase r. However, pitch must also
affect not only thrust but also efficiency.
For any two props of the same type and diameter, but different pitches,
the prop with lower pitch will have lower incident angle of attack than the
prop of higher pitch. Lower incident
angle of attack means better flow attachment, less separation, less induced
drag, and therefore less profile drag/pressure drag too. <b>Therefore, higher diameter and lower pitch
props must be more efficient, but how are diameter and pitch related? </b> Well, I decided to do a <u>constant times the
diameter to pitch ratio</u>, then use “goal seek” in Excel on this constant, to find out what value
for that constant gave me the lowest deviation of calculated static thrust from
actual static thrust. At this point, the equation looked like this, where I was goal-seeking to find the optimal value for the unknown empirical constant, k:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfH72-GsPa_wszUkdQ0AOohgwk_djJuQarufNU02mn4V_LlOq6MYsCRI_PrGBgo2Uhq-2YELz6pdMR_2K2m_VyjGm_nVLfAQgQIziRFdm3dbhlR3sHxhAPhHJPwPtVBHssLTa3M6GvrYWc/s1600/first+empirical+attempt.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="60" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfH72-GsPa_wszUkdQ0AOohgwk_djJuQarufNU02mn4V_LlOq6MYsCRI_PrGBgo2Uhq-2YELz6pdMR_2K2m_VyjGm_nVLfAQgQIziRFdm3dbhlR3sHxhAPhHJPwPtVBHssLTa3M6GvrYWc/s1600/first+empirical+attempt.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 12: First attempt at finding an empirical correction factor, k*(d/pitch),<br /> in this case, using goal-seek in Excel to optimize k</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Pretty soon, however, I realized that the relationship of d/pitch to static thrust was
nonlinear, so I added in a second constant to raise the diameter-to-pitch ratio
to some power, as shown here:</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTuUbQBmKpC-dka215Z363QZeiazC2nQD5zAe5_GE-Nd46nkBUIturkeA0nwWwF0Uent1MdC7U6WZTAie-xBdymakQZuCecDj7Dm031hvbruy6XeS88WsK4sbpPMKCzPOI1Vp8ArA423f/s1600/2nd+empirical+attempt,+2+constants.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="58" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTuUbQBmKpC-dka215Z363QZeiazC2nQD5zAe5_GE-Nd46nkBUIturkeA0nwWwF0Uent1MdC7U6WZTAie-xBdymakQZuCecDj7Dm031hvbruy6XeS88WsK4sbpPMKCzPOI1Vp8ArA423f/s1600/2nd+empirical+attempt,+2+constants.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 13: Second empirical attempt, this time with two unknown empirical constants, k1 and k2</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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where k1 is the "coefficient constant" I describe below, and k2 is the "power constant."</div>
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I then used trial and
error to juggle around the two constants for several hours, incrementally changing one, and
goal-seeking the other. Repeated trials
led me to choose 1.5 as the value for the power constant, k2. This value is still enigmatic to me, and I do
now know why it works best. The value
1.5, or 3/2, just seems to be too perfect, and therefore perhaps has an
analytical basis, but I just don’t know what.
After choosing 1.5 as the power constant, performing the goal-seek on k1, the coefficient constant for the diameter to pitch ratio, gave me a value of
1/3.29546 (or 0.30344777), as the optimal coefficient constant necessary to minimize the average error between the predicted and actual thrust values for the 149 data points I looked at.</div>
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At this point I was complete, and that brings me to my final static thrust equation at this time, shown here: </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDeZoYcYCwQTgHD7yvNYl85JIAeVUyEos_FB-yiLpFK986OgQA_y9HrmvFHaSY1gu8vJM8q0wepH9XUMSvJQhsRXIH-c-OfhlLhth0BuVg_OUzSvxzIbVnS7JwN6aidOlXRhEUTtCw2kyr/s1600/final+static+thrust+eqn+w-empirical+correction.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="72" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDeZoYcYCwQTgHD7yvNYl85JIAeVUyEos_FB-yiLpFK986OgQA_y9HrmvFHaSY1gu8vJM8q0wepH9XUMSvJQhsRXIH-c-OfhlLhth0BuVg_OUzSvxzIbVnS7JwN6aidOlXRhEUTtCw2kyr/s1600/final+static+thrust+eqn+w-empirical+correction.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equation 14: Final static thrust equation, with empirical correction factor</b></td></tr>
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Finally, I added Vac back in to the equation (refer back to Equation 8) in order to make it applicable to dynamic thrust calculations, and I compared it against one single dynamic thrust test run from <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.399999618530273px;">Matthew McCrink of Ohio State University. Since my equation produced reasonable results, even if only only for a single dynamic thrust data set, I consider it to be a success, though <b>future work</b> will include <i>applying an empirical correction constant to the dynamic thrust portion of the equation as well, in order to improve the accuracy of the zero-thrust, or x-intercept point</i>. My static thrust empirical correction factor makes the y-intercept point accurate, so now if I can make the x-intercept point more accurate, I can simply draw a line between the two in order to have the complete dynamic thrust estimate for any given airspeed, Vac. After that, I can worry about the minor non-linearity in the line segment that is noticeable between those two points, but it is so minor that perhaps it can just be ignored. Additionally, I plan to look at some blade-element-theory type techniques, breaking the propeller up into small segments and independently looking at each segment, considering such things, perhaps, as apparent angle of attack to the inflow (to see which segments of the prop may be stalled at any given time), and inflow velocity for that segment of the propeller, since as discussed previously, I know the inflow velocity is not constant across the inflow area. This will require using an annular (ring-like) cross-sectional inflow area (rather than circular), for each prop segment I look at, since I will be looking at only segments of the prop. at a time. These are just some ideas that I have, however, as I'll have to see what's truly feasible as I think through and attempt the next steps.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.399999618530273px;">One other idea, which I think is very feasible and will work very well, is to use multi-rotors/multicopters (ie: quadrotros, tricopters, hexacopters, etc) to further refine my static and dynamic thrust estimates. For any vehicle in a steady, hovering state, the thrust is equal to the vehicle weight. Knowing this, you can take a multirotor vehicle, hover it, use an Arduino microcontroller to do real-time measuring and datalogging of each motor's RPMs (I've already worked out an initial version of this code), and then apply my equation to refine the thrust estimate. The thrust each propeller is producing is simply the total vehicle weight divided by the number of propellers on the vehicle. Ex: for a standard quadrotor configuration, for a quadrotor weighing 1kg, the thrust of each propeller, in any given steady, horizontally-stationary (horizontal velocity = 0), unaccelerated hovering state, is 1kg/4. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; line-height: 22.399999618530273px;"><b>Finally, here is my dynamic thrust equation, in its current final form</b>, with the empirical correction constants, as discussed above, applied. Note here, however, I previously chose to use <b style="font-size: 16px;">V0</b> to represent the aircraft velocity, instead of <b style="font-size: 16px;">Vac</b>. They are the same thing though, so ignore that minor difference. These are the same equations that I show in </span><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/09/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation.html" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.399999618530273px;" target="_blank">Part 1</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.399999618530273px;"> of this article.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCmdZlh7wbluWVVpcD1PFjIQ4oo17lS-kqXkMww5GGNrDhugsB82kysg4l8aWeDNTQzXbUg0BL80d_snrIB4OvJfuRQLkJamvjdITBM0yqbhQBwL3NGKy8KW3n1c8qibNUsI1vaBI4kFxp/s1600/propeller+thrust+eqn+%2528expanded+AND+simplified%2529.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCmdZlh7wbluWVVpcD1PFjIQ4oo17lS-kqXkMww5GGNrDhugsB82kysg4l8aWeDNTQzXbUg0BL80d_snrIB4OvJfuRQLkJamvjdITBM0yqbhQBwL3NGKy8KW3n1c8qibNUsI1vaBI4kFxp/s1600/propeller+thrust+eqn+%2528expanded+AND+simplified%2529.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Equations 15 (top) and 16 (bottom): Final, empirically-corrected, dynamic thrust equations for a propeller (top: expanded form, bottom: simplified form)</b></td></tr>
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<div>
Here is the single dynamic thrust test point from <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 22.399999618530273px;">Matthew McCrink. I discuss this plot more thoroughly in <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/09/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation.html" target="_blank">Part 1</a> of this article.</span></div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj44JLUJ4FMcDBVuHY5bvBjeg_G8DEwtJ0NKp0hzZTgtHYBLxAaO9ZxBLqBgKr6I9BYC10oKff9yz7j3P4sFZCIdt5K_uxF936Ubnk8-DWxiwDTMwuPfJYOwHDTCm2nkUtjduLbWKGWAwJi/s1600/10x6+Dynamic+Thrust+Plot.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj44JLUJ4FMcDBVuHY5bvBjeg_G8DEwtJ0NKp0hzZTgtHYBLxAaO9ZxBLqBgKr6I9BYC10oKff9yz7j3P4sFZCIdt5K_uxF936Ubnk8-DWxiwDTMwuPfJYOwHDTCm2nkUtjduLbWKGWAwJi/s1600/10x6+Dynamic+Thrust+Plot.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Figure 2: Propeller thrust: experimental results in wind tunnel vs. my semi-empirically calculated results from Eqn 15 or 16</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmaO9q9mWDXAuE_DAJIzFizpa6-1_UPn_2VAgJN7tg6qogCO4-V9m204xFq0vl6HbABTkGyrk0B0wC1p4TBlo_aRn2e9RHxTLf2s2AKKFWzzBsK7sp5bji244PF4sL0OwiVYuZoEyisI5q/s1600/RPM+plot+for+dynamic+thrust+plot.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmaO9q9mWDXAuE_DAJIzFizpa6-1_UPn_2VAgJN7tg6qogCO4-V9m204xFq0vl6HbABTkGyrk0B0wC1p4TBlo_aRn2e9RHxTLf2s2AKKFWzzBsK7sp5bji244PF4sL0OwiVYuZoEyisI5q/s1600/RPM+plot+for+dynamic+thrust+plot.PNG" width="352" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Figure 3: Motor RPM vs wind tunnel velocity during test shown in Figure 2</b></td></tr>
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Here is a diagram I am adding for completeness, in case you'd like to study it for additional insight:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhseAK527qX94OJkeuN8HYjm3FNvyFce-cc0KvOhR7S3YA8_2Tc-EHGNPq7eCDdNID4K92Jf3DQ98hnPyWZvHhb8d0v0-3xbyiHvwSlyGr5Sk04pXJzNeEsvayv6YbcBc0CEgnrwdoNiqwn/s1600/propeller+diagram.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhseAK527qX94OJkeuN8HYjm3FNvyFce-cc0KvOhR7S3YA8_2Tc-EHGNPq7eCDdNID4K92Jf3DQ98hnPyWZvHhb8d0v0-3xbyiHvwSlyGr5Sk04pXJzNeEsvayv6YbcBc0CEgnrwdoNiqwn/s1600/propeller+diagram.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Figure 4: Dynamic propeller physics, including propeller angle of attack during forward flight</b></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Application & Conjecturing:</span></b></div>
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One potential application of my dynamic thrust equation is to look at how power system choice affects max speed of your aircraft. Realistically, we would need some more info. about your aircraft, such as drag coefficient, so that in SLUF (Steady, Level, Unaccelerated Flight) we could assume thrust = drag, but let's just make some generalized statements to get my point across for now. The point is that your airplane can never fly faster than the airspeed indicated at the x-intercept of the thrust vs. airspeed curve. If your power system produces zero thrust at a given airspeed, then your plane will never fly quite that fast. If it was perfectly drag-free, it would fly exactly that fast. Therefore, my equation at <i>least</i> gives us a decent idea of what the max theoretical, drag-free airspeed might be for a given setup. Using my equation, let's see how prop pitch, diameter, RPMs, and airspeed are related. Let's take a look.</div>
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Using my dynamic thrust equation, I created this plot below,
trying to use reasonable values I guestimated based on my personal RC experience, for one particular power system you might have. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggttS-JaDDi_T34YcyMqMNMRGB5FKj8xblOLuDUs5m0dQVt3Ye28O1GjDPWsTX4cWdb7J7RUHZmZ63LZTrfEMB7oU1qekYHXWiQ4OEVwH0NHlFp7GKwHnjnH4g0AgC0jMs9GKnbVZDVR6G/s1600/thrust+vs.+aircraft+airspeed.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggttS-JaDDi_T34YcyMqMNMRGB5FKj8xblOLuDUs5m0dQVt3Ye28O1GjDPWsTX4cWdb7J7RUHZmZ63LZTrfEMB7oU1qekYHXWiQ4OEVwH0NHlFp7GKwHnjnH4g0AgC0jMs9GKnbVZDVR6G/s1600/thrust+vs.+aircraft+airspeed.PNG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Figure 5: Conjectured thrust vs aircraft airspeed curves, showing the tradespace between prop selection</b></td></tr>
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Notice that dynamic thrust is linear. Based on my equation, this makes sense,
because although thrust has a squared relationship to induced velocity through
the propeller, it has only a linear relationship to aircraft speed, or
airspeed. Looking at Figure 4 on this
website (<a href="http://www.allstar.fiu.edu/aero/BA-Form&gra.htm" target="_blank">http://www.allstar.fiu.edu/aero/BA-Form&gra.htm</a>),
you can see that thrust of a prop-driven airplane does indeed taper off almost
linearly. You can also see that in the wind tunnel data I posted above.</div>
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This is in contrast to jet airplane. From a few plots I saw in my core aero book (<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Aeronautics-Perspective-Edition-Education/dp/1563477017" target="_blank">ISBN-13: 978-1563477010, found here</a>), for a
jet airplane, thrust vs. airspeed is basically just a straight horizontal
line. I believe this is because for a
jet airplane, V<sub>0</sub> (ie: Vac) is insignificant compared to V<sub>e </sub>(ie: Ve >> Vac), so
thrust stays nearly constant across various aircraft airspeeds.</div>
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<b>To make a point, looking at the various curves on the thrust vs. airspeed plot above,
you can see that despite having the <u>lowest static thrust</u>, the smallest diameter,
highest-pitch prop in this case (7x6 at 13,500 RPM) has the <u>highest potential
to get the plane going fast</u>. In other words, it has the highest high-speed dynamic thrust, since its curve intersects the x-axis the farthest to the right. Assuming that your propeller/battery comparisons maintain constant power for a given motor (since a power
system: motor, ESC, battery, etc., is in fact power limited, due to heat
generation), that is always the tradeoff: high static thrust versus high dynamic thrust (& hence also high pitch speed, & high top speed). In this made up case, the 7x6 prop. has the lowest static thrust, but the highest dynamic thrust. Therefore, it might be a poor choice on this power setup for a 3D plane, which needs very high static thrust to be able to hover and accelerate vertically, but it might be ideal on a sport plane you want to fly around fast, since high-speed flight requires a high pitch speed and higher dynamic thrust. The fast plane sacrifices high static thrust, as indicated by a lower thrust curve near the left of the plot, in exchange for higher dynamic thrust and top speed, as indicated by extending the curve to the right on the plot. This trade-off in choosing your propeller is like shifting gears in a car. Either you get a really good top speed with lousy initial acceleration (like 5<sup>th</sup> gear), or you get a really low top speed with
really good initial acceleration (like 1<sup>st</sup> gear). Assuming constant power draw through your given motor/battery/ESC setup, a 10x4.7 prop is more like 1<sup>st</sup>
gear, and a 7x6 prop is more like 5<sup>th</sup> gear. </b><br />
<br />
<b>One more note: the area under each curve is equal to the Power of the propulsion system. If put in standard metric units, the y-axis, thrust, would be in Newtons, and the x-axis, airspeed, would be in m/s. The area under the curve would be in units of thrust x airspeed = Nm/s = J/s = W = Watts. This is the unit of power. There are 745.7 watts per horsepower (W/hp). <i> </i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<b><i>In order to make the hypothetical propeller comparisons above more realistic, I need to redo that plot, this time ensuring that the areas under the curves are equal, thereby ensuring constant power for each propeller being used.</i> </b><br />
<b style="background-color: yellow;">[Todo: redo the above plot, ensuring equal areas under the curves, & thereby equal power draw for each setup (W = J/s = Nm/s = area under the curve). Also, calculate the power for a given system, & see if this correlates accurately to the real-life measured power draw through a system, or if I am misunderstanding something ~GS.]</b></div>
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One more thing to keep in mind: These plots above assume constant RPM. However, as V<span style="font-size: x-small;">ac</span> increases, the RPM data from the wind tunnel experiment above shows that RPM also increases. This seems explainable to me by the fact that effective Angle of Attack (AoA, or alpha) on the prop blades decreases
with increasing airspeed (see my figure above, showing the side profile of the propeller). Since effective AoA decreases, pressure drag
and induced drag will decrease on the blades. This, perhaps, is what allows the propeller RPM to increase. I hypothesize that decreasing effective AoA on the prop blades reduces resistive torque, which allows the motor to speed up a little. I will have to look into this phenomenon more in the future. If you look at the <a href="http://www.allstar.fiu.edu/aero/BA-Form&gra.htm" target="_blank">Cessna 172 data in Figure 4 of this source</a>, you'll see that the thrust curve is very slightly parabolic, bowing up in the center. The wind tunnel data also slightly shows this phenomenon. I would like to know what causes this, so that is something else I will look into in the future, as I continue learning and growing.</div>
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That's it for now!</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">If you have not read my precursor article, <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/09/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation.html" target="_blank">"Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation, Part 1 of 2"</a>, I highly recommend you do that.</span></b></div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com66tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-72415807314493325442014-04-11T19:21:00.005-07:002014-05-29T21:00:43.374-07:00Aim High<span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><i>Aim high! Shoot for the stars and you’ll land on the moon; shoot for the moon and you’ll land on the roof; shoot for the roof and you’ll land in the dumpster. Aim high!</i></span><br />
<br />
I've heard quotes similar to this, and the other day (22 March 2014) I thought about this and wrote it on the top of a to-do list I had which pertains to Unmanned Aerial Systems-related projects I'm working on. These are the types of things I try to remind myself regularly. Aim high.<br />
<br />
~Gabriel Staples<br />
<br />
<b>Related Article:</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-goal-of-a-lifetime.html" target="_blank">The Goal of a Lifetime</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
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<i><br /></i>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTp43yv_KwPDgXiJM1eqOAb9KIK_ijRE3ABOZuVZR9CmhVlnrNLlEJ3MJ7irYsiPfc33HmmJunPsaEbkvEuseMOLG3vsALGGFruu4CxKwBg25evEMDVBdBMz_tFNWVY-KFyEHnd6yA3LKs/s1600/008144-R1-13-10A+-+strong+winds,+eh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTp43yv_KwPDgXiJM1eqOAb9KIK_ijRE3ABOZuVZR9CmhVlnrNLlEJ3MJ7irYsiPfc33HmmJunPsaEbkvEuseMOLG3vsALGGFruu4CxKwBg25evEMDVBdBMz_tFNWVY-KFyEHnd6yA3LKs/s1600/008144-R1-13-10A+-+strong+winds,+eh.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<i><br /></i>
<i><br /></i>
<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">"It should be the end goal of any professional to reach such a high level of skill at what you do that you are no longer limited by your abilities; but rather, you are limited only by your imagination."</span></b></i><br />
<b>~Gabriel Staples, 25 Feb. 2014</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<i><b><span style="font-size: large;">"Reach your true potential."</span></b></i><br />
<b>~Gabriel Staples, 20 July 2020</b><br />
<br />
I was inspired with this thought tonight while listening to <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOMQxVtbkik" target="_blank">this song (Fear Not This Night (ft. Asja))</a>, followed by <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRfuAukYTKg" target="_blank">this song (David Guetta - Titanium ft. Sia)</a>. As the second song finished, I thought to myself, “did you hear any flaw in her voice?...are there any notes she cannot reach?...does she not have a perfect mastery of music?” And then it hit me, musical artists at this level are not limited by their skillset, or the lack thereof; they are not limited by vocal control, or a sparse understanding of music, beat, rhythm, and notes. Rather, singers like this are so skilled that they are limited, in what they will accomplish in their music, only by their imagination. So it must be with engineers. In the world of engineers, hobbyists, users and creators of electronics, RC pilots, systems and electronics integration experts and inventors, mathematicians, we must become so adept in our fields that the only limiting factor in what we can create in our areas of expertise is our imaginations. Let us resolve to better learn our fields, and to make personal efforts to improve our skills on a daily basis, so that we can become doers and not just hearers in whatever we do. "Be a Thinker, and Be a Doer," that is what drives me [1].<br />
<br />
In regards to my professional interests, my goal is to become so skilled in Unmanned Aerial Systems, electronics, aviation, and computer programming, that nothing can hold me back from developing whatever I want to on the leading edge of technology, stretching the bounds of our world as we know it today.<br />
<br />
By Gabriel Staples<br />
25 Feb. 2014<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">References:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">[1] - "Be a thinker, and be a doer" is a quote from Destin, on his <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/destinws2" target="_blank">"Smarter Every Day"</a> series on YouTube.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">--photo is a picture of me in Egypt, by the Red Sea, in June 2009, on a trip to study Arabic.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<b>Other Articles to Check Out:</b><br />
<div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/04/aim-high.html" target="_blank">Aim High</a> - a solid quote to help guide one's life</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> - what is Arduino, and what can it do? Whether you are a beginner, intermediate, or expert Arduino user/programmer, I can almost guarantee you'll learn <i>something new</i> in this article. Be sure to check out the links at the very end!</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/07/staples-stingray-glider-sneak-peak.html" target="_blank">The "Staples Stingray" Glider Sneak Peak!</a> - fly this bungee-launched free flight glider up to 250 ft. high and 1/5 of a mile far in a single flight!</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/inspirational.html" target="_blank">Inspirational </a>- links to a few videos or projects that I find to be rather awe-inspiring</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a> - get a great, economical setup to enter the fascinating world of radio control aircraft!</li>
</ul>
<b>Update History:</b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">17 March 2014: added links & descriptions of other articles to check out</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">20 July 2020: added "Reach your true potential" quote.</span></li>
</ol>
</div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-68866756613884632012014-02-13T21:21:00.000-08:002015-05-13T06:18:58.912-07:00Arduino PPM Reader Code - to read the signal coming out of the back of an RC transmitter!By Gabriel Staples
Written: 14 Feb. 2014<br />
Last Updated: 14 Feb. 2014<br />
<br />
...THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS...Code is finished, just tweaking and properly documenting it...<br />
ARTICLE COMING SOON<br />
<br />
<u><b><br /></b></u>
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter "Library"</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-56675610280696900452014-02-09T08:44:00.024-08:002020-07-27T06:51:39.522-07:00Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter Library...merging the world of Arduino and Radio Control, one tool at a time...<br />
...CODE FOR A PRECISE MICROS() FUNCTION IS POSTED BELOW...<br />
<br />
<b>"I wrote a libary to get 0.5us precision on a "micros()" replacement
function, so that I can get repeatable results reading a PWM or
<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-to-MATLAB-GUI-Live-Data-Acquisition-Plotti/" target="_blank">PPM signal</a>, to within 1us. I searched all around the internet and could not find
something comparable (or that was easy to use, and maintained the Arduino's
ability to write PWM signals via the Servo Libary), so I think this is my
first real contribution to the world of Arduino and Radio Control." </b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi03jlieFhQ9RP1NC02F_yVZBHzRr3IK_MoFBlGcFXWgYJcZHC8wkgFdm3IQ75JMY1clAWjWg6WJOIEJLfb0nt_aDqQfUl8NRPoeGkcnO-Aurpk6dGLxnGTur1WVdPbR6Jw0N2YrJQN83Oz/s1600/Timer2_Counter+logo+w-Arduino+Uno.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi03jlieFhQ9RP1NC02F_yVZBHzRr3IK_MoFBlGcFXWgYJcZHC8wkgFdm3IQ75JMY1clAWjWg6WJOIEJLfb0nt_aDqQfUl8NRPoeGkcnO-Aurpk6dGLxnGTur1WVdPbR6Jw0N2YrJQN83Oz/s1600/Timer2_Counter+logo+w-Arduino+Uno.PNG" width="640" /></a>
</div>
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">(font above is type "standard," from
<a href="http://www.network-science.de/ascii/" target="_blank">here</a>)</span><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Download this library:</span></b>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><script src="https://gumroad.com/js/gumroad.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
<a class="gumroad-button" href="https://gumroad.com/l/UqREB">Download eRCaGuy_Timer2_Counter</a></span></b>
</div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>
Click the above link, optionally donate (just set the price you want to pay to $0 if you like),
& download the library. You may also
<a href="https://gumroad.com/gabrielstaples" target="_blank">click here</a>, then choose the appropriate download. </li><ul><li>For the email address field, you may enter <b>none@gmail.com</b> if you like. Or, enter your real email if you want to receive an email with the download link, and if you don't mind if I send you an occasional email with something I'm working on (perhaps a few times a year or so).</li></ul><li>Install the library into the
Arduino IDE (using Sketch --> Include Library --> Add .ZIP Library),
then run the examples to see how to use the library.
</li>
<li>
GitHub: <a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_TimerCounter">https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_TimerCounter</a>
</li>
</ul>
<a name='more'></a><br />
By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 9 Feb. 2014<br />
Last Updated: 15 June 2017<br />
<br />
Update History (newest on top):<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-15 June 2017 - added "</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">A Few Links to Projects Using This Library</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">" section & links at bottom</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-7 Apr. 2017 - added link to
<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/03/arduino-atmega328-timer-PWM-output.html" target="_blank">custom Timer2 example</a>
w/1% duty cycle 10kHz PWM output (1us HIGH/99us LOW); moved code blocks
below into syntax-highlighted boxes</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-4 Aug 2015 - minor updates</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-slight re-arrangement of a few bits of info - 8 May 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;">-changed license from GPL to LGPL V3 or later;</span><span style="background-color: white; color: blue;">
added a new example demonstrating reading in ANY pulsing signal (to
measure high pulse width and frequency), INCLUDING RC PWM signals, using
Pin Change Interrupts! The example may be fundamentally quite complicated,
but I assure you it is very easy to use. Download the latest version of
code to see this new example. - 21 March 2015</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-26 July 2014 - minor changes to function names (removed the "T2" parts
since I made that change in my library several months back)</span><br />
<b style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">-I have now turned this into a full-blown, true Arduino library!
Now you can actually install it like a normal Arduino library, and
use the #include <eRCaGuy_Timer2_Counter.h> line and everything!
Download the latest code by clicking the download link - 17 May
2014</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-moved code from Google Drive to GitHub, & updated download links - 12
April 2014</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added PPM/PWM links at very bottom of post - 26 Feb. 2014</span><br />
<br />
========================================================================<br />
<b>Please support my work and contributions by using my code and sharing links
to my website! Also, *<u>subscribe</u>* to receive immediate notification of
new articles, by using the links at the top-right!</b><br />
========================================================================<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li>
<a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/03/arduino-atmega328-timer-PWM-output.html" target="_blank">Arduino (ATmega328) Direct Register Manipulation for Custom PWM Output
(ex: 1us HIGH followed by 99us LOW --> 1% Duty Cycle at 10kHz)</a>
[<b><span style="color: red;">NEW! </span>as of 7 Apr. 2017</b>]
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/05/ercaguybuttonreader-library-for-arduino.html" target="_blank">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader Library for Arduino</a> - Debounce and read the current button or switch state, & most
recent action ("just pressed" or "just released") easily!
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a>
</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics,
& Radio Control)</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> - including many good tutorials, links, help info, etc at the
bottom of this post
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a>
</li>
</ul>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Timer2_Counter Library:</span></b><br />
<br />
In order to interface Arduino with the world of Radio Control, I need to be
able to interpret and even duplicate the signals which Radio Control vehicles
use. These signals include Pulse Position Modulation (PPM) and Pulse
Width Modulation (PWM). I will not go into the details of how these
signals work, but I will say that I have spent a great deal of time learning
about them to a very detailed level. This way, I can have the knowledge
to read and manipulate them. <br />
<br />
For those of you who don't know: the signal coming out of the trainer port, or
going into the trainer port, on the back of an RC transmitter (Tx), is a PPM
signal. The signal coming out of a receiver (Rx) and to a servo or
Electronic Speed Conroller (ESC) is a PWM signal. <br />
<br />
<b>If an Arduino can read the PPM signal coming out of the back of a Tx, this
is EXTREMELY useful </b>in debugging your radio and setup by allowing you to see what pulse widths
your Tx is outputting for each channel. <b>Additionally, it allows you to use your RC Tx as an INPUT DEVICE to control
an Arduino! </b><br />
<br />
You now have access to all these analog and digital inputs (sticks, scroll
wheels, switches, etc), to manipulate your Arduino! And, since many RC
hobbyists (like me) have many cheap radios from RTF (Ready to Fly) kits and
things lying around, this is very useful so that we can finally put them to
use doing something else. For instance, I plan on using one of my old
radios, with an
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/ercaguystore1/home/arduino-nano-v3-0" target="_blank">Arduino nano</a> and a Leonardo-compatible device, to act as a wireless mouse for
controlling my wife's computer when connected to the TV. Then, I can sit
on the couch and control the screen with an RC Tx!<br />
<br />
<b>If an Arduino can create a PPM signal to go into the trainer port on the
back of a Tx, this is EXTREMELY useful </b>because it allows you to use the Arduino to drive your RC vehicle via
Feed-Forward loops (ie: you can preprogram commands in the Arduino, like "go
forward 20 feet, then turn left 45 deg," or "do continuous figure 8's." <br />
<br />
<b>Similarly, putting your Arduino in at the Rx end is also very useful,</b>
because you can create your own custom mixes to manipulate your servos or
speed controllers, or you can create or modify an autopilot. <b>Also, knowing how to read the PPM and PWM signals from a receiver also
enables you to use a standard RC Tx/Rx combination as a wireless
communication device for your Arduino! </b> You can even send data from one Arduino to another, over open-air
distances up to 1km, using this technique, again, if you understand the
signals well enough. This makes RC and Arduino a very powerful
combination, and to the Arduino user: I should note that many older 72MHz RC
Tx/Rx combos exist out there that are being sold for ~$20 used by Radio
Control hobbyists who are transitioning to the newer 2.4GHz spread-spectrum
systems. If you see a 72MHz system for only a few bucks, grab it!
It's a great tool for your Arduino.<br />
<br />
Now...on to the title of this post. In learning to manipulate and read
PWM and PPM signals, it quickly became apparent to me that timing is critical.
I originally used the built-in Arduino
<a href="http://arduino.cc/en/reference/micros" target="_blank">micros()</a> function for my timing, but it only has a resolution of 4us. This
is very poor, as it means that I get errors up to +/- 8us, over time
(determined experimentally). PWM and PPM signals usually range from
900~2100us max, but are more commonly 1100~1900us (this is default on a
Spektrum brand Tx). In your standard "computerized" (ie:
microcontroller-run) RC Tx, when you change your "%" range or endpoint
settings, each percent corresponds to 4us. (This is calculated as
follows: 1900-1100 = 800us, which is +/-100% of the standard travel, so 1500
to 1900us is the +100% portion, which covers 400us, and 1100 to 1500 is the
-100% portion, which covers 400us. Therefore, 400us/100% = 4us per 1%.)
Therefore, assuming an error span of 12us, that's a fluctuation in
simply reading or writing a fixed channel value, of up to 3% as seen in the
radio settings.<br />
<br />
<b>I didn't like that, so I wrote a "libary" to get 0.5us precision on a
"micros()" replacement function, so that I can get repeatable results
reading a PWM or PPM signal, to within 1us. I searched all around the
internet and could not find something comparable (or that was easy to use,
and maintained the Arduino's ability to write PWM signals via the Servo
Libary), so I think this is my first major contribution to the world of
Arduino and Radio Control.</b><br />
<br />
First, I will post an example code which shows how to use my Timer2_Counter
"Library." I have thoroughly commented all of my code. You will
see that I use micros() as a comparison, to show that my code does in fact
work.<br />
<br />
-Due to line wrap when I pasted the code on my blog, the formatting of the
code below is not perfect. When you view it in the
<a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software" target="_blank">Arduino IDE</a>
(Integrated Development Environment), however, it looks good.</div><div><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Download:</span></b><br />
Download using the link at the top of this article.<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Additional References to Get Started Learning about Radio Control PPM
(Pulse Position Modulation) and PWM (Pulse Width Modulation)
Signals:</span></b><br />
<ol>
<li>
<a href="http://www.camelsoftware.com/firetail/blog/radio/reading-pwm-signals-from-a-remote-control-receiver-with-arduino/" target="_blank">http://www.camelsoftware.com/firetail/blog/radio/reading-pwm-signals-from-a-remote-control-receiver-with-arduino/</a> - Reading PWM Signals from a Remote Control Receiver, with Arduino
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://www.mftech.de/ppm_en.htm" target="_blank">http://www.mftech.de/ppm_en.htm</a> - PPM Encoding
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://www.mftech.de/buchsen_en.htm" target="_blank">http://www.mftech.de/buchsen_en.htm</a> - R/C buddy box plugs/ pin assignment
</li>
</ol>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">A Few Links to Projects Using This Library:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>
<a href="https://gerritsendesign.wordpress.com/2016/07/28/ballistic-chronograph/" target="_blank">https://gerritsendesign.wordpress.com/2016/07/28/ballistic-chronograph/ </a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Capacitor-Tester-Capacitance-Meter/" target="_blank">http://www.instructables.com/id/Capacitor-Tester-Capacitance-Meter/</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://www.nillesfm.com/capacitateur-capacitometre/" target="_blank">http://www.nillesfm.com/capacitateur-capacitometre/</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://www.gunook.com/kondensatorprufgerat-kapazitatsmessgerat/" target="_blank">http://www.gunook.com/kondensatorprufgerat-kapazitatsmessgerat/</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://www.end2endzone.com/rcreceiversignal-an-arduino-library-for-retreiving-the-rc-transmitter-value-from-an-rc-receiver-pulse/" target="_blank">http://www.end2endzone.com/rcreceiversignal-an-arduino-library-for-retreiving-the-rc-transmitter-value-from-an-rc-receiver-pulse/</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://libraries.io/github/jamieFL/vectoredair" target="_blank">https://libraries.io/github/jamieFL/vectoredair</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=299311.15" target="_blank">http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=299311.15</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://www.sgm.siedlce.pl/index.php/warsztat/narzedzia/579-arduinoppm2" target="_blank">http://www.sgm.siedlce.pl/index.php/warsztat/narzedzia/579-arduinoppm2</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://dash.harvard.edu/bitstream/handle/1/14398525/DICKENSHEETS-SENIORTHESIS-2015.pdf" target="_blank">https://dash.harvard.edu/bitstream/handle/1/14398525/DICKENSHEETS-SENIORTHESIS-2015.pdf</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="http://forum-bron.pl/viewtopic.php?t=139151&start=30" target="_blank">http://forum-bron.pl/viewtopic.php?t=139151&start=30</a>
</li>
<li>
<a href="https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LibraryList" target="_blank">https://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LibraryList</a>
</li>
<li>Google "eRCaGuy_Timer2_Counter"</li>
</ul>
<br />
========================================================================<br />
<b>Please support my work and contributions by <u>subscribing and sharing</u> using the buttons at the top-right of my website! Also be sure
to share links to my articles with your friends.</b><br />
========================================================================<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">The Code:</span></b><br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><i>(Update: 27 March 2015: the below code is outdated. Download the latest
version of the code using the links already mentioned above, and
reference the included files, including the examples, to see what the
code and functions look like from the latest version of this
library!)</i></span></b><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Function Definitions of Timer2_Counter:</span></b><br />
-This is a list of the available functions, for a full description of each
function, refer to the comments at the top of the "Timer2_Counter.ino"
file.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>setup();</li>
<li>get_count();</li>
<li>get_micros();</li>
<li>reset();</li>
<li>revert_to_normal();</li>
<li>unsetup();</li>
<li>overflow_interrupt_off();</li>
<li>overflow_interrupt_on();</li>
</ul>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1) Example Code</span></b><br />
<div>
<br />
</div>
<pre><code class="arduino" title="Use arrow keys to easily scroll left/right or up/down.">
/*
Timer2 Counter Basic Example
-A timer function with 0.5us precision, rather than 4us precision like the built-in Arduino micros() function has.
By Gabriel Staples
Visit my blog at http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/
-My contact info is available by clicking the "Contact Me" tab at the top of my blog.
-Please support my work & contributions by buying something here: https://sites.google.com/site/ercaguystore1/
My original post containing this code can be found here: http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html
Written: 8 Feb. 2014
Updated: 9 Feb. 2014
*/
/*
===================================================================================================
LICENSE & DISCLAIMER
Copyright (C) 2014 Gabriel Staples. All right reserved.
This code was written entirely at home, during my own personal time, and is neither a product of work nor my employer.
Furthermore, unless otherwise stated, it is owned entirely by myself.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
License: GNU General Public License Version 3 (GPLv3) - http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or
(at your option) any later version.
This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the
GNU General Public License for more details.
You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License
along with this program. If not, see http://www.gnu.org/licenses/
===================================================================================================
*/
//CODE DESCRIPTION:
//This code demonstrates the use of my Timer2, which provides a more precise timer than micros().
//micros() has a precision of only 4us. However, Timer2 keeps track of time to a precision of 0.5us.
//This is especially important in my code which reads an RC receiver PWM signal, which varies from 900~2100us.
//Though this code demonstrates the use of the Timer_2 functions I have written, it does not adequately demonstrate the
//real utility of the code, so I will state the following:
//By using my Timer2 timer to measure the PWM high time interval on an RC receiver, in place of using micros(), I can get repeatable
//pulse width reads with a fluctuation of ~1us, rather than having a read-in range fluctuating by as much as +/- 4~8 us when I use micros().
//This is an increase in precision of ~8x.
void setup() {
//configure Timer2
setup_T2(); //this MUST be done before the other functions work; Note: since this messes up PWM outputs on pins 11 & 3,
//you can always revert Timer2 back to normal by calling unsetup_T2()
//prepare serial
Serial.begin(115200);
//Output a header of info:
Serial.println("Notes:");
Serial.println("micros() has a precision of 4us");
Serial.println("get_T2_count() with unsigned long final data type has a final precision of 1us, and is fast");
Serial.println("get_T2_count() with float final data type has a final precision of 0.5us, and is not quite as fast");
Serial.println("get_T2_micros() has a precision of 0.5us, and is slower than the above 2 methods, so one of the above 2 methods is preferred");
Serial.println("==============================================");
}
void loop() {
//Grab Start Times
unsigned long t_start1 = micros(); //us; get the current time using the built-in Arduino function micros(), to a precision of 4us
unsigned long t_start2 = get_T2_count(); //count units of 0.5us each; get my Timer2 count, where each count represents 0.5us; PREFERRED METHOD
float t_start3 = get_T2_micros(); //us; get the current time using my Timer2; Note: THE METHOD ONE LINE ABOVE IS PREFERRED OVER THIS METHOD
//since using floats is slower than using unsigned longs
//Wait a bit
delayMicroseconds(1000);
//Grab End Times
unsigned long t_end1 = micros(); //us; using built-in Arduino function that has a precision of 4us
unsigned long t_end2 = get_T2_count(); //count units of 0.5us each; using my Timer2 count, where each count represents 0.5us
float t_end3 = get_T2_micros(); //us; using my Timer2 micros, which has a precision of 0.5us
//Calculate elapsed times
unsigned int t_elapsed1 = t_end1 - t_start1; //us; using micros()
unsigned int t_elapsed2_ul = (t_end2 - t_start2)/2; //us; to a precision of 1us, due to using unsigned long data type truncation, using Timer2 count
float t_elapsed2_fl = (t_end2 - t_start2)/2.0; //us; to a precision of 0.5us, due to using float data type for final time difference calc; note that I divide by 2.0, NOT 2
float t_elapsed3 = t_end3 - t_start3; //us; to a precision of 0.5us
//Display the results
Serial.println(""); //insert a space
Serial.print("elapsed time using micros() = ");
Serial.print(t_elapsed1);
Serial.println("us");
Serial.print("elapsed time using get_T2_count() with unsigned long final data type = ");
Serial.print(t_elapsed2_ul);
Serial.println("us");
Serial.print("elapsed time using get_T2_count() with float final data type = ");
Serial.print(t_elapsed2_fl);
Serial.println("us");
Serial.print("elapsed time using get_T2_micros() = ");
Serial.print(t_elapsed3);
Serial.println("us");
//Wait a second before repeating
delay(1000);
}</code></pre>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2) Timer2_Counter main "Library" file:</span></b><br />
<div>
<br />
</div>
<pre><code class="arduino" title="Use arrow keys to easily scroll left/right or up/down.">
/*
Timer2 Counter
-A timer function with 0.5us precision, rather than 4us precision like the built-in Arduino micros() function has.
By Gabriel Staples
Visit my blog at http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/
-My contact info is available by clicking the "Contact Me" tab at the top of my blog.
-Please support my work & contributions by buying something here: https://sites.google.com/site/ercaguystore1/
My original post containing this code can be found here: http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html
Written: 7 Dec. 2013
Last Updated: 11 Dec. 2013
*/
/*
===================================================================================================
LICENSE & DISCLAIMER
Copyright (C) 2014 Gabriel Staples. All right reserved.
This code was written entirely at home, during my own personal time, and is neither a product of work nor my employer.
Furthermore, unless otherwise stated, it is owned entirely by myself.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
License: GNU General Public License Version 3 (GPLv3) - http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or
(at your option) any later version.
This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the
GNU General Public License for more details.
You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License
along with this program. If not, see http://www.gnu.org/licenses/
===================================================================================================
*/
/*
CODE DESCRIPTION:
BACKGROUND:
-This code uses Timer2 to create a more precise timer than micros(). Micros() updates only every 4us. However, I want something that will update every 0.5us, and that's
what this provides.
-The downside is that it changes the behavior of PWM output (using analogWrite) on Pins 3 & 11.
-The upside is that I have managed to get a precise timer using the 8-bit Timer2, rather than the 16-bit Timer1, so that I can keep the Timer1 unmodified so I can continue
to use the servo library as desired. Note here that the servo library relies on the Atmega328 16-bit Timer1. I have deciphered this by knowing that
A) using the servo library at all disables PWM output on pins 9 & 10; see here: http://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/Servo
and B) PWM on pins 9 & 10 is controlled by Timer1; see here: http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/TimerPWMCheatsheet
-Note: every now and then, but not very often, you will see that the value returned by get_T2_count or get_T2_micros is late by ~4us. This is because Timer2 is only
an 8-bit timer, so every 128us the overflow interrupt is called to increment the overflow counter, and stepping into and out of the interrupt takes 4~5us
according to Nick Gammon. Source: Nick Gammon; "Interrupts" article; "How long does it take to execute an ISR?" section, found here: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11488
IMPLEMENTATION:
-To use this code, simply copy this file (I have it named "Timer2_Counter.ino") into your directory (folder) where you are already working on a specific Arduino file.
Next time you open up your main file you are working on, this code will automatically open up as an additional tab in the Arduino IDE.
-I have tested this code ONLY on Arduinos using the Atmega328 microcontroller; more specifically, the Arduino Nano.
I heavily reference the 660 pg. Atmega328 datasheet, which can be found here: http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet.pdf
Version History:
(most recent event last; format year-month-day, ex: 20131211 is Dec. 11, 2013):
20131211 - completed first iteration of code
============================================================================================================================================================================
Function Definitions
___ _ _ _ _ ___ _____ ___ ___ _ _ ___ ___ ___ ___ _ _ ___ _____ ___ ___ _ _ ___
| __|| | | || \| | / __||_ _||_ _|/ _ \ | \| | | \ | __|| __||_ _|| \| ||_ _||_ _||_ _|/ _ \ | \| |/ __|
| _| | |_| || .` || (__ | | | || (_) || .` | | |) || _| | _| | | | .` | | | | | | || (_) || .` |\__ \
|_| \___/ |_|\_| \___| |_| |___|\___/ |_|\_| |___/ |___||_| |___||_|\_||___| |_| |___|\___/ |_|\_||___/
setup_T2(); //This function MUST be called before any of the other Timer2 functions will work. This function will generally only be called one time in your setup() loop.
//"setup_T2()" prepares Timer2 and speeds it up to provide greater precision than micros() can give.
get_T2_count(); //gets the counter from Timer 2. Returns the Timer2 counter value as an unsigned long. Each count represents a time interval of 0.5us.
//note that the time returned WILL update even in Interrupt Service Routines (ISRs), so if you call this function in an ISR, and you want the time to be
//as close to possible as a certain event that occured which called the ISR you are in, make sure to call "get_T2_count()" first thing when you enter
//the ISR.
//Also, note that calling "get_T2_count()" is faster than calling "get_T2_micros()," and is therefore the preferable way to measure a time interval.
//For example: call "get_T2_count()" at the beginning of some event, then at the end. Take the difference and divide it by 2 to get the time interval
//in microseconds.
get_T2_micros(); //returns the Timer2 microsecond time, with a precision of 0.5us, as a float. This function is slower than calling "get_T2_count()," and therefore is not
//the preferred way of getting time. It is better to get the time by calling "get_T2_count()" then dividing the value by 2. By choosing whether or not
//you want to call "get_T2_count()" or "get_T2_micros()," you can decide if you need the extra precision of a float, or not, at the cost of having
//slightly slower code.
reset_T2(); //resets the Timer2 counters back to 0. Very useful if you want to count up from a specific moment in time, or obtain an "elapsed time."
revert_T2_to_normal(); //this function might also be called "unsetup_T2". It simply returns Timer2 to its normal state that Arduino had it in prior to calling "setup_T2"
unsetup_T2(); //the exact same as "revert_T2_to_normal()"
T2_overflow_interrupt_off(); //turns off the Timer 2 overflow interrrupt so that you no longer interrupt your code every 128us in order to increment your overflow counter.
//This may be desirable when you are no longer referencing the T2 counter or timer and want your main code to run a touch faster, but you don't want
//to call unsetup_T2() in order to change all of Timer2's settings back to default.
//Since an interrupt takes ~5us to execute, and my Timer2 will overflow every 128us, disabling the Timer2 overflow interrupt will prevent
//you from losing that amount of time (~5us) every 128us.
//Source: Nick Gammon; "Interrupts" article; "How long does it take to execute an ISR?" section, found here: http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11488
//Note: If you diable the Timer 2 overflow interrupt but still call get_TC_count() or get_TC_micros() at least every 128us, you will notice no
//difference in the counter, since calling get_TC_count() or get_TC_micros() also checks the interrupt flag and increments the overflow counter
//automatically. You have to wait > 128us before you see any missed overflow counts.
T2_overflow_interrupt_on(); //turns Timer 2's overflow interrupt back on, so that the overflow counter will start to increment again; see "T2_overflow_interrupt_off()"
//explanation for more details.
============================================================================================================================================================================
References:
-cool font, type "small", from: http://www.network-science.de/ascii/
Additional Resources:
-Nick Gammon's "Timers & Counters" article - http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11504
-Nick Gammon's "Interrupts" article - http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11488
*/
//Set up Global Variables
//volatile (used in ISRs)
volatile unsigned long T2_overflow_count = 0; //initialize Timer2 overflow counter
volatile unsigned long T2_total_count = 0; //initialize Timer2 total counter
//normal variables
byte tccr2a_save; //initialize; will be used to backup default settings
byte tccr2b_save; //initialize; will be used to backup default settings
//Interrupt Service Routine (ISR) for when Timer2's counter overflows; this will occur every 128us
ISR(TIMER2_OVF_vect) //Timer2's counter has overflowed
{
T2_overflow_count++; //increment the timer2 overflow counter
}
//Configure Timer2
void setup_T2()
{
//backup variables
tccr2a_save = TCCR2A; //first, backup some values
tccr2b_save = TCCR2B; //backup some more values
//increase the speed of timer2; see below link, as well as the datasheet pg 158-159.
TCCR2B = TCCR2B & 0b11111000 | 0x02; //Timer2 is now faster than default; see here for more info: http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/TimerPWMCheatsheet
//Note: don't forget that when you speed up Timer2 like this you are also affecting any PWM output (using analogWrite) on Pins 3 & 11.
//Refer to the link just above, as well as to this source here: http://www.oreilly.de/catalog/arduinockbkger/Arduino_Kochbuch_englKap_18.pdf
//Enable Timer2 overflow interrupt; see datasheet pg. 159-160
TIMSK2 |= 0b00000001; //enable Timer2 overflow interrupt. (by making the right-most bit in TIMSK2 a 1)
//TIMSK2 &= 0b11111110; //use this code to DISABLE the Timer2 overflow interrupt, if you ever wish to do so later. (see datasheet pg. 159-160)
//set timer2 to "normal" operation mode. See datasheet pg. 147, 155, & 157-158 (incl. Table 18-8).
//-This is important so that the timer2 counter, TCNT2, counts only UP and not also down.
//-To do this we must make WGM22, WGM21, & WGM20, within TCCR2A & TCCR2B, all have values of 0.
TCCR2A &= 0b11111100; //set WGM21 & WGM20 to 0 (see datasheet pg. 155).
TCCR2B &= 0b11110111; //set WGM22 to 0 (see pg. 158).
}
//get total count for Timer2
unsigned long get_T2_count()
{
noInterrupts(); //prepare for critical section of code
uint8_t tcnt2_save = TCNT2; //grab the counter value from Timer2
boolean flag_save = bitRead(TIFR2,0); //grab the timer2 overflow flag value
if (flag_save) { //if the overflow flag is set
tcnt2_save = TCNT2; //update variable just saved since the overflow flag could have just tripped between previously saving the TCNT2 value and reading bit 0 of TIFR2.
//If this is the case, TCNT2 might have just changed from 255 to 0, and so we need to grab the new value of TCNT2 to prevent an error of up
//to 127.5us in any time obtained using the T2 counter (ex: T2_micros). (Note: 255 counts / 2 counts/us = 127.5us)
//Note: this line of code DID in fact fix the error just described, in which I periodically saw an error of ~127.5us in some values read in
//by some PWM read code I wrote.
T2_overflow_count++; //force the overflow count to increment
TIFR2 |= 0b00000001; //reset Timer2 overflow flag since we just manually incremented above; see datasheet pg. 160; this prevents execution of Timer2's overflow ISR
}
T2_total_count = T2_overflow_count*256 + tcnt2_save; //get total Timer2 count
interrupts(); //allow interrupts again
return T2_total_count;
}
//get the time in microseconds, as determined by Timer2; the precision will be 0.5 microseconds instead of the 4 microsecond precision of micros()
float get_T2_micros()
{
float T2_micros = get_T2_count()/2.0;
return T2_micros;
}
//reset Timer2's counters
void reset_T2()
{
T2_overflow_count = 0; //reset overflow counter
T2_total_count = 0; //reset total counter
TCNT2 = 0; //reset Timer2 counter
TIFR2 |= 0b00000001; //reset Timer2 overflow flag; see datasheet pg. 160; this prevents an immediate execution of Timer2's overflow ISR
}
//undo configuration changes for Timer2
void revert_T2_to_normal()
{
T2_overflow_interrupt_off(); //turn off Timer2 overflow interrupts
TCCR2A = tccr2a_save; //restore default settings
TCCR2B = tccr2b_save; //restore default settings
}
//same as revert_T2_to_normal()
void unsetup_T2()
{
revert_T2_to_normal();
}
//Turn off the Timer2 Overflow Interrupt
void T2_overflow_interrupt_off()
{
// TIMSK2 &= 0b11111110; //use this code to DISABLE the Timer2 overflow interrupt; see datasheet pg. 159-160
TIMSK2 &= ~(_BV(TOIE2)); //alternate code to do the above; see here for use of _BV: http://194.81.104.27/~brian/microprocessor/BVMacro.pdf
}
//Turn the Timer2 Overflow Interrupt Back On
void T2_overflow_interrupt_on()
{
// TIMSK2 |= 0b00000001; //enable Timer2 overflow interrupt. (by making the right-most bit in TIMSK2 a 1); see datasheet pg. 159-160
TIMSK2 |= _BV(TOIE2); //alternate code to do the above; see here for use of _BV: http://194.81.104.27/~brian/microprocessor/BVMacro.pdf
}</code></pre>
<div>
<br />
========================================================================<br />
<b>Please support my work and contributions by
<u>subscribing and sharing</u> using the buttons at the top-right of my
website! Also be sure to share links to my articles with your
friends.</b><br />
========================================================================<br />
<br />
THE END<br />
<br />
<br />
</div>
</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com61tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-88002018614359999822014-02-08T19:11:00.000-08:002014-05-27T19:27:44.501-07:00Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an ArduinoBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 8 Feb. 2014<br />
Updated: 27 May 2014 - minor details added<br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/arduino-power-current-and-voltage.html" target="_blank">Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage Limitations</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/ercaguy-store-just-opened.html" target="_blank">eRCaGuy Store Just Opened</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> - including many good tutorials, links, help info, etc at the bottom of this post</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">4 Ways to Power Your Arduino:</span><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>USB cable</li>
<li>External power supply, or battery, going into the 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC power jack (recommended 7~12V input)</li>
<li>External power supply, or battery, going into the "VIN" and "GND" pins on the board, via jumpers (recommended 7~12V input)</li>
<li>External, <i>regulated</i> 5V power going straight into the "5V" and "GND" pins; this can come from another Arduino's 5V and GND pins even!</li>
</ol>
<div>
========================================================================<br />
<b>Please support my work and contributions by <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/ercaguystore1/" target="_blank">purchasing an Arduino-compatible Nano from me here</a>.</b><br />
<b>Also, don't forget to like, share, and subscribe at the right.</b><br />
========================================================================<br />
<br />
END OF POST</div>
<div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-27528374778201341772014-02-08T18:31:00.001-08:002015-06-11T22:17:08.344-07:00Arduino Power, Current, and Voltage LimitationsBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Started: 6 Jan. 2014<br />
Last Updated: 12 June 2015<br />
Update History (newest on top)<br />
-added info about IO pin voltage protection using a single resistor (ex: 10K --> +15.5V/-10.5V) - 20150612<br />
-very minor corrections: some clarity added - 20140730<br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2015/06/arduino-quick-tip-io-pin-overvoltage-protection-w-single-resistor.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: Arduino Input/Output (I/O) Pin Over-Voltage Protection Using a *Single* Resistor!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/05/ercaguybuttonreader-library-for-arduino.html" target="_blank">eRCaGuy_ButtonReader Library for Arduino</a> [JUST UPDATED] - Debounce and read the current button or switch state, & most recent action ("just pressed" or "just released") easily!</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/Timer2Counter-more-precise-Arduino-micros-function.html" target="_blank">Arduino micros() function with 0.5us precision - using my Timer2_Counter Library</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/02/quick-tip-4-ways-to-power-arduino.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: 4 Ways to Power an Arduino</a></li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> - including many good tutorials, links, help info, etc at the bottom of this post</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<u><b>Other Articles You May Be Interested in Reading:</b></u></div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/09/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation.html" target="_blank">Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation</a></li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ0ogt4cJ0-ix-M3pqihL2vfl6SdBebQci9H9XV-C9QBvoIF0WpoY6ythV3tqcBF312TPMncSx8dL3h40DJbz3b2WHKTtxHjCGr75A9z1KGQBwCWRYddN1XiSA52fDL0s3Hh4CtGl8nz7l/s1600/Adafruit+servo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ0ogt4cJ0-ix-M3pqihL2vfl6SdBebQci9H9XV-C9QBvoIF0WpoY6ythV3tqcBF312TPMncSx8dL3h40DJbz3b2WHKTtxHjCGr75A9z1KGQBwCWRYddN1XiSA52fDL0s3Hh4CtGl8nz7l/s1600/Adafruit+servo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
(image above is from <a href="http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-arduino-lesson-14-servo-motors?view=all" target="_blank">this Adafruit tutorial here</a>) </div>
<br />
In using Arduino and designing my circuits for it, I have often-times asked myself the question, "What are the power/current/voltage limitations of the Arduino?" "Will I risk damaging it?" In the image above, for instance, a large servo is being powered by the voltage regulator right on the Arduino development board. Larger servos and motors like these have the potential to push the Arduino past its max current limits, potentially causing it to reset itself and cause unusual errors while running, or possibly even damage the Arduino (I should note that most linear voltage regulators have an over-temperature auto-cutoff feature, however, so damage is unlikely). In either case, it's important to understand the limitations of your Arduino, its input/output pins, and its voltage regulators.<br />
<br />
Here, I will attempt to succinctly and accurately describe the power limitations of the standard Arduino boards, such as the Uno and Nano. References will be included at the end, and references for particular data are denoted by square braces with the reference number, such as this: "[1]." Following my references and methodology, you can use the same techniques to figure out the limits of your particular board, in case you're not using an Uno or Nano.<br />
<br />
<b>Summary of information below:</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><b>Input Voltage Limits:</b></li>
<ul>
<li><b>Recommended: 7~12V</b></li>
<li><b>Absolute: 6~20V</b></li>
<li><b>Input/Output (I/O) pins: -0.5V to +5.5V (the actual max is "Vcc + 0.5V," which for a 5V Arduino, is +5.5V) (<span style="color: blue;">Note 1</span>)</b></li>
</ul>
<li><b>Output Current Limits:</b></li>
<ul>
<li><b>When powered by USB: total of 500mA</b></li>
<li><b>With external battery or power supply: total of 500mA~1A (see below for specifics)</b></li>
<li><b>5V pin: same as above: 500mA or 500mA~1A</b></li>
<li><b>Each input/output pin: 40mA</b></li>
<li><b>Sum of all input/output pins combined (but NOT including the "5V" pin): 200mA</b></li>
</ul>
</ul>
<b><span style="color: blue;">Note 1</span></b>: simply by adding a resistor in series with an I/O pin, you get increased input voltage protection for that pin. Ex: a <b>10k</b> resistor provides voltage enough protection to allow input voltages between <b>-10.5V and +15.5V</b>. A <b>100k</b> resistor allows DC input voltages from <b>-100.5V</b> to <b>+105.5V</b>. Read my article here for more info: <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2015/06/arduino-quick-tip-io-pin-overvoltage-protection-w-single-resistor.html" target="_blank">Quick Tip: Arduino Input/Output (I/O) Pin Over-Voltage Protection Using a *Single* Resistor!</a><br />
<br />
KEEP READING BELOW FOR MORE DETAILS.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Power Limitations of the Arduino Uno & Nano:</span></b><br />
<b></b><br />
<a name='more'></a><b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Voltage Input Limits:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Input power: </b> to power the Arduino, you either plug it in to a USB port, or you input a voltage source to it either its 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC power jack (if present, such as on the Uno) or via jumpers going to its "VIN" and "GND" pins (which are on all Arduinos that I've seen). When powering the Arduino via the power jack or VIN and GND pins, it has the following input voltage limitations:</li>
<ul>
<li><b>Recommended input voltage limits</b>: <b>7~12V [1&2]</b></li>
<ul>
<li>These input voltages can be sustained indefinitely</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Absolute voltage limits for powering the Arduino</b>: <b>6~20V [1&2]</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Below 7V may cause the 5V levels on the board to waver, fluctuate, or sag, causing board instability and less accurate analog readings when using analogRead().</li>
<li>Sustained voltage leves above 12V will cause additional heating on the linear voltage regulator of the Arduino, which could cause it to overheat. Short periods, however, are fine. Feel the voltage regulator with your finger. If it feels too hot to comfortably touch, you need to use a voltage source within the recommended limits in order to reduce heat buildup. In the picture below, the black device at the left side of the Arduino, circled in yellow, is the voltage regulator. <span style="font-size: x-small;"> <i>Caution: before touching any electro-static discharge (ESD) sensitive parts on the Arduino (which is pretty much all of the Arduino), touch the metal part of the USB plug first to ground yourself out to the board and safely discharge any static voltage you have built up.</i></span></li>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm0QP05cmFYR54CvPnnVrKuw4MDJ9dTcUQS1PZr9Y-M93XYUM2MxzCeeiOYLWdsknQtoQKSaMBW1cafV4p5iKWiseuMIzlmt40EHkvXiDJvWvkYmD1BF5E2pYL5b-SqlKdx9tJBB4rvWui/s1600/Arduino+uno+w-circled+voltage+regulator.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm0QP05cmFYR54CvPnnVrKuw4MDJ9dTcUQS1PZr9Y-M93XYUM2MxzCeeiOYLWdsknQtoQKSaMBW1cafV4p5iKWiseuMIzlmt40EHkvXiDJvWvkYmD1BF5E2pYL5b-SqlKdx9tJBB4rvWui/s1600/Arduino+uno+w-circled+voltage+regulator.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>Voltage limits on input/output pins: <b>-0.5 - +5.5V max. [3]</b></li>
<ul>
<li>If you need to read in a voltage on an Arduino digital or analog input pin, ensure it is between 0 and 5V. If it is outside these limits, you can bring down the voltage using a <a href="https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/voltage-dividers/all" target="_blank">voltage divider</a>. <b>This scales the input voltage to allow for analog or digital readings of voltages otherwise outside the allowed range</b>. If your input signal is digital, and you don't need to take scaled analog readings, another technique is to <b>clip (cut the top off of) the input voltage</b>, rather than scale it. Since AVR microcontrollers (ex: the Atmel ATmega328) have internal clipping diodes (note that Atmel, mistakenly I believe, calls them "clamping diodes"), this can be done by simply <b>adding a single resistor in series with the pin</b>. Ex: adding a 10k resistor in series with the input pin permits input voltages as low as -10.5V or as high as +15.5V. Read <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2015/06/arduino-quick-tip-io-pin-overvoltage-protection-w-single-resistor.html" target="_blank">my article here</a> for more information.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Current Output Limits:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Total maximum current draw from the Arduino when powered from a USB port: 500mA [1]</b></li>
<ul>
<li>The Uno has a "resettable polyfuse that protects your computer's USB ports from shorts and overcurrent." [1]</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Total maximum current draw when powered via external power supply: </b></li>
<ul>
<li><b>Arduino Uno: 1A [4]</b></li>
<li><b>Arduino Nano: 500mA [5]</b></li>
<li><b><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/ercaguystore1/home/arduino-nano-v3-0" target="_blank">Arduino-compatible Nano</a> that I like to use: 1A [6]</b></li>
<li>Note: If not powered by USB, the total 5V current limit coming out of the Arduino is limited by the voltage regulator on your particular board, and/or your input power supply, whichever provides less power. Let's assume your power supply going to the Arduino can provide 7~12V and >= 1A. If this is the case, the 5V power is limited strictly by your Arduino board's voltage regulator. </li>
</ul>
<li><b>Total max current draw across the Arduino "5V" pin and "GND": as specified just above.</b></li>
<ul>
<li>The output current limit from the "5V" pin will be according to the info just above.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Total max current per input/output pin: 40mA [1, 2, & 3]</b></li>
<li><b>Sum of currents out of all input/output pins combined: 200mA [3].</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Note: this is the one that usually gets people, as it may be the least understood! Despite the fact that your voltage regulator on the Uno (or the Nano that I use) may permit up to 1A draw across the "5V" and "GND" pins, the sum of all currents going into or out of the input/output pins (all Analog and Digital pins combined) of the Atmega328 microcontroller itself cannot exceed 200mA. So, if you are powering 10 LEDs at 20mA each, via your Analog or Digital pins, you just hit your limit! Any more than that and you may damage the microcontroller on the Arduino board. A work-around if you need more current is to use transistors. The Arduino input/output pins can then use a very low current to activate a transistor, which then turns a higher current on and off from the 5V pin directly (which is connected straight to the output of the on-board linear voltage regulator), to the device you want to control. This way, you keep the sum total output from the Arduino analog/digital pins below 200mA, while allowing up to the 500mA~1A limit from the 5V pin.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<b>Here's a helpful table from the Atmega328 datasheet [3].</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93fdbSOO66gIp4W8TZjCmCFlYYSg1_Vx-SAjiyPSs6EkgE4vsyoEe56SvsdTPFopvIVf6bUEZUON8JhB0KBabFM0EQ6k8jUF2kWhlQ-BUZ0PubL6SLVxB7HgSZwtha0jsQ67-d5Vij4cg/s1600/Atmega+328+absolute+maximum+ratings.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg93fdbSOO66gIp4W8TZjCmCFlYYSg1_Vx-SAjiyPSs6EkgE4vsyoEe56SvsdTPFopvIVf6bUEZUON8JhB0KBabFM0EQ6k8jUF2kWhlQ-BUZ0PubL6SLVxB7HgSZwtha0jsQ67-d5Vij4cg/s1600/Atmega+328+absolute+maximum+ratings.PNG" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">References:</span></b><br />
<br />
<div>
The first place to look is to go to Arduino.cc --> Products, then click on the board you use. This brings you to your board's main reference page. Schematics for your board can be found by looking for the "schematic" link on your board's main reference page.<br />
<ol>
<li>Main Arduino Uno reference page - <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno">http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardUno</a> </li>
<li>Main Arduino Nano reference page - <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardNano">http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardNano</a> </li>
<li>The Arduino Uno and Nano use the Atmega328 microcontroller. Googling "Atmega328 datasheet" helped me find its datasheet here; see pg 303, Table 29.1, Absolute Maximum Ratings - <a href="http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet.pdf</a> </li>
<li>Arduino Uno Schematic - <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/Arduino_Uno_Rev3-schematic.pdf" target="_blank">http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/Arduino_Uno_Rev3-schematic.pdf </a></li>
<ol>
<li>I got to this schematic by going to Arduino.cc --> Products --> Uno --> "arduino-uno-Rev3-schematic.pdf". In this schematic, at the top right, I can see that the voltage regulator used on the Uno is the NCP1117ST50T3G. By Googling "NCP1117 datasheet" I found the datasheet here: <a href="http://www.unihedron.com/projects/sqm-le/PDFspecs/NCP1117-D.PDF" target="_blank">http://www.unihedron.com/projects/sqm-le/PDFspecs/NCP1117-D.PDF</a>. It says that the regulator can supply "Output Current in Excess of 1.0 A."</li>
</ol>
<li>Arduino Nano Schematic - <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/ArduinoNano30Schematic.pdf" target="_blank">http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/ArduinoNano30Schematic.pdf</a></li>
<ol>
<li>I got to this schematic by going to Arduino.cc --> Products --> Nano --> "schematic". At the bottom-left I can see that the voltage regulator is a UA78M05. Googling "UA78M05 datasheet" helped me find the datasheet here: <a href="http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ua78m05.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ua78m05.pdf</a>. It specifies "Output Current up to 500 mA."</li>
</ol>
<li>The <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/ercaguystore1/home/arduino-nano-v3-0" target="_blank">Arduino-compatible nano</a> that I use has an AMS1117 5V linear regulator, as printed on the top of the regulator, which is located on the bottom of the board. The datasheet is here: <a href="http://www.advanced-monolithic.com/pdf/ds1117.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.advanced-monolithic.com/pdf/ds1117.pdf</a>. It specifies "Output Current of 1A."</li>
</ol>
</div>
<div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Additional Resources to read:</span></b><br />
<div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://ruggedcircuits.com/html/ancp01.html" target="_blank">ruggedcircuits.com - 10 Ways to Destroy an Arduino</a></li>
<li><a href="http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ArduinoPinCurrentLimitations" target="_blank">http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/ArduinoPinCurrentLimitations</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-78167828535824260942014-01-30T19:17:00.002-08:002014-01-30T20:59:50.682-08:00eRCaGuy Store Just Opened<div>
By: Gabriel Staples</div>
<div>
Written: 30 Jan. 2014</div>
<br />
<u><b>Related Links:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
I have just opened up a tiny web-shop in order to make a little extra money to support my work. I intend on purchasing extra parts and pieces when I engage in Arduino or electronics-related products, so that I can sell them on my site.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><i>Please support my work, research, blog, and contributions to the world of Radio Control and Arduino microcontroller programming by purchasing my products.</i></span></b></div>
<div>
<b style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><i><br /></i></span></b></div>
<div>
<b style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><a href="http://goo.gl/RYIFmW" target="_blank">You can access my web store by clicking here.</a></i></span></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>I am currently selling brand new Arduino-compatible Nano V3.0's, with breadboard, USB cable, and FREE shipping from and to the United States.</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-39254158019758925632014-01-05T20:04:00.002-08:002017-04-15T15:13:24.761-07:00The Power of Arduino<b>...And how you can learn to use computer programming to control and customize the physical world around you, including your RC vehicles...</b><br />
<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;"><br /></span></b>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Subscribe to and share this blog by clicking the links to the right --></span><br />
<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;"><br /></span></b>By: Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 5 Jan. 2014<br />
Last Updated: 15 Apr. 2017<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">History (newest on TOP):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-updated Amazon links & prices, added Elegoo products, and converted Amazon links to Amazon Affiliate links - 15 Apr. 2017</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added link to (incomplete, but functional) touch lamp code - 20 Oct. 2016</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added info on __attribute__ syntax - 25 Sept. 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added more __attribute__((__packed__)) and #pragma pack(1) links to bottom - 4 Sept. 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-macro comment addition to Intermediate section - 20 June 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added Expert links section - 9 May 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-links edited at bottom - 5 March 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added another Advanced link - 24 Feb 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added Vilros starter kit links to bottom - 7 Feb 2015</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added source code link for my RC car read PWM sketch - 2 Nov. 2014</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added a bunch of new links at bottom of article (mostly Intermediate) - 14 June 2014</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-added details and corrections pertaining to microcontrollers being used in servos - 17 March 2014</span><br />
<br />
====================================================================<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Be sure to check out the links and resources at the end of this article, as they are EXTREMELY useful to anyone who uses Arduino microcontroller development boards!</i></span></b><br />
====================================================================<br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Related or Interesting Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/09/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation.html" target="_blank">Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/07/staples-stingray-glider-sneak-peak.html" target="_blank">Bungee-Launched "Stingray" Free Flight Glider</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/04/ted-talk-massimo-banzi-arduino.html" target="_blank">TED Talk - Massimo Banzi: How Arduino is open-sourcing imagination</a></li>
</ul>
<b><u>One Good Use of an Arduino: Use it as a Touch Lamp controller</u> [<a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/eRCaGuy_TouchLamp" target="_blank">source code</a>]:</b><br />
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<u><b><br /></b></u>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Background:</span></b><br />
So, you may be wondering why I haven't written an article in the last few months. To be honest, writing a well-informed article, with plots, pictures, and sources takes vast amounts of time, and life gets busy. However, I should also tell you that I have been heavily involved in <b><a href="http://arduino.cc/" target="_blank">Arduino microcontroller programming</a></b> for the last several months, and I have spent countless hours learning about and programming Arduino. I have now built up a variety of Arduino tools and resources that I use, including dozens of bits of test code, many projects and programs, and hundreds of files, links, and resources. <b>I have even written some code and functions which I have seen nowhere else, which I think are very valuable, and which I intend to periodically share here on my blog</b>.<b> In other words, I think I have some useful things to contribute to the vast world of Arduino, some of which will help bridge the world between Radio Control, robotics, and Arduino microcontroller programming. </b> Though I am constantly learning, and constantly seeking help from resources and people who know much more than I, I would consider myself a very informed Arduino user with a sound, yet constantly growing, understanding of electricity, electrical engineering, programming, and computer science.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Why have I recently been doing Arduino programming instead of doing Radio Control stuff?</span></b><br />
<br />
Learning Arduino <i>is</i> doing Radio Control stuff. It turns out that the world of Radio Control is <br />
<a name='more'></a>completely inundated with microcontrollers and programming--though perhaps very few Radio Control guys/gals are aware of this. A microcontroller is, in short, a miniature computer, which operates as intimately with hardware as is possible for code to do. It is designed to control the physical world around us. RC devices are controlled by them. The Arduino development board utilizes Atmel-brand microcontrollers. The Arduino therefore is an incredibly capable little computer which makes customizing your RC experience, adding additional sensors or functionality, or even turning your RC device into an Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV), Unmanned Aerial System (UAS), or Unmanned Ground Vehicle, possible! With Arduino, you can take a standard RC device and make it an autonomous or semi-autonomous robot. The limit of what you can do is only constrained by your ingenuity and imagination!<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Microcontrollers in Radio Control Today</span></b><br />
Without microcontrollers, like those used by the Arduino development platform, RC as we know it today would not exist! Though I have become knowledgeable on the subject very quickly, I have been doing Arduino microcontroller programming for less than a year. It wasn't until approximately April 2013 that I first picked up an Arduino and made it blink, and it wasn't until approximately July 2013 that I actually caught the vision. Now it's time for you to catch the vision too! <br />
<br />
When I fly an RC airplane, here's where microcontrollers are used:<br />
<ol>
<li><u>The transmitter (Tx)</u>: I know for a fact my computer-based Tx uses at least one microcontroller. That's the "computer" in the radio that stores and changes settings, shows your settings on a display, and creates the PPM (Pulse Position Modulation) signal which comes out the trainer port in the back of the radio. I don't know for sure, but I believe there is also an additional microcontroller in the RF (Radio Frequency) module which actually sends the signal out over the airwaves. I presume that if this one exists in the RF module, it would be what controls the pseudo-random 2.4Ghz frequency hopping algorithm.</li>
<li><u>The receiver (Rx)</u>: Every one of my 2.4Ghz Rx's uses a microcontroller to read in the signal, process it, separate the channels, and send out individual channel signals as PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signals. These PWM signals are what go to the servos and ESC (Electronic Speed Controller).</li>
<li><u>The Electronic Speed Controller (ESC)</u>: Every ESC <b>must have</b> a microcontroller. Brushed speed controllers use one to chop the battery voltage via PWM, in order to throttle the motor. Brushless speed controllers use one to chop the battery voltage via PWM, in order to throttle the motor, <b>as well as</b> to do a very complicated commutation algorithm, based on feedback, which times the switching and "rotating" of electrical signals around the motor in order to allow the electromagnets to push and pull on the permanent magnets, in just the right places and at just the right times, in order to cause the motor to rotate. </li>
<li><u>The servos</u> (some). Though many servos use integrated circuits (ICs), some servos have an embedded microcontroller chip to decode the incoming PWM signal from the Rx, read a potentiometer to decipher their position, and move themselves to a commanded position, using potentiometer feedback, to ensure they get there. This is what servos must do, and though the servos I have looked at use an Integrated Circuit (IC) like the AA51880 Servo Motor Controller, some more advanced servos are programmable and have customizable gains, slew rates, and other control parameters, and use embedded microcontrollers rather than ICs. One such servo is the open-source "<a href="http://openservo.com/" target="_blank">OpenServo</a>."</li>
<li><u>The charger</u>. Every smart charger uses a microcontroller. It is safe to assume that if it has a display, it uses a microcontroller.</li>
<li><u>Your voltage checker and/or low voltage alarm</u>. I use a voltage checker on the ground to verify battery voltage and cell balance before and after each flight. It uses a microcontroller. I opened it up and checked. I also use a low voltage alarm on my plane to beep when my battery is low. It uses one too.</li>
</ol>
<div>
So, each and every time I fly an airplane, there are at least 5 places microcontrollers are used. Each device that uses a microcontroller must have specially-designed code on it to perform very specific tasks, that a computer programmer (or someone like you or me) put there! In a single flight, I may be using up to 10 or more (for sure I am using at least 5) microcontrollers just to make it happen. Now, with the power of Arduino, I can learn to customize and enrich my RC experience by turning my RC devices into robots, by creating custom code (firmware) to load onto an Arduino and put on my airplane or car in order to make it do...whatever I want! </div>
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<div>
<b><u>Arduino video: Reading the throttle signal from an RC car receiver, and using it to change the blink rate of an LED (could be used as a head-lamp or tail light on the car, for instance):</u> [<a href="https://github.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/PWM_Reader2_WORKS_PERFECTLY_Hayden_car_lights" target="_blank">source code</a>]</b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">My Arduino History:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Sometime during the <b>beginning of 2013</b>: My good friend <a href="http://goo.gl/3wWeqj" target="_blank">Michael Cardoza</a>, a high school Spanish Teacher (and great person to inspire one to try new Arduino and electronics projects), showed me his Arduino. I had no idea what that was. I wasn't very interested. Didn't look very impressive, and to me, it wasn't related to RC (boy was I wrong!).</li>
<li><b>13 April 2013</b>: I made a used Arduino Duemilanove blink. It took me ALL day on Saturday to accomplish this (prob. 8~10 hrs.). This was a very rough transition into microcontroller programming, as the stinking thing was used and had a bad bootloader. I eventually figured out how to reload the bootloader onto it using a <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=27990&aff=281904" target="_blank">USBasp AVR programmer</a> I had picked up earlier from HobbyKing, but never used until that day. (By the way, the USBasp programmer uses....guess what....a microcontroller! :) ).</li>
<li><b>July 2013</b>: I picked up the Arduino again. This time, I caught the vision.</li>
<li><b>By October 2013</b>: I had become completely absorbed in Arduino microcontroller programming, as a new primary hobby for the time being (it will always be part of my RC endeavors now). I began doing various projects and things, some being quite complicated and difficult for me, to continue learning Arduino.</li>
<li><b>Today (5 Jan. 2014)</b>: I continue making leaps and bounds, as able, in my understanding of and ability to use Arduino microcontroller programming. </li>
</ul>
<div>
<b>To date (13 April 2013 to 5 Jan 2014), I estimate (via some calculations I just did) that I have spent approximately <u>472 hrs</u>. learning about and/or doing Arduino microcontroller programming or learning about and doing related circuit analysis and electrical engineering.</b> Arduino and microcontrollers are such an amazing tool.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><u>A Few Helpful Arduino Resources</u></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"> <span style="color: red;">- BE SURE TO CHECK THESE OUT - these are really fantastic learning sources!</span></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Arduino Starter Kits:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>I really like the Vilros-brand kits purchased on Amazon! Vilros gives you high-quality parts and kits with outstanding value for your money.</li>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=vilros+arduino" target="_blank">Amazon search for "vilros arduino"</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Ultimate-Starter-Module-Instruction/dp/B00HI0RYJK" target="_blank">Vilros Arduino Arduino Uno Ultimate Starter Kit + LCD Module -- Includes 72 page Instruction Book, $</a>54, one of my personal favorite Arduino starter kits!</li>
</ul>
<li><b>UPDATE 15 Apr. 2017: The Elegoo-brand Arduino kits on Amazon are now the best value! Ex:</b></li>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGD2GAO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01DGD2GAO&linkId=60f18f492dc7a6ffc0165ced0e6bb02b" target="_blank">Elegoo UNO Project Basic Starter Kit with Tutorial and UNO R3 for Arduino</a>, $17</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8KOZF4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01D8KOZF4&linkId=1b9313c70a277d982e0ca2b031289e1e" target="_blank">Elegoo UNO Project Super Starter Kit with Tutorial for Arduino</a>, $35</li>
<ul>
<li><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B01D8KOZF4&asins=B01D8KOZF4&linkId=d30957065510ac437f406f8cdc7c8c91&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe></li>
</ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZTLHGE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01CZTLHGE&linkId=e40a69cdc4c57cfd3c8b947d66d3585f" target="_blank">Elegoo UNO R3 Project Complete Starter Kit with Tutorial for Arduino (63 Items)</a>, $53</li>
<ul>
<li><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=B01CZTLHGE&asins=B01CZTLHGE&linkId=a00df4e4492f4e122801372b66944b56&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe></li>
</ul>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2Z9ZTV/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01M2Z9ZTV&linkId=6e567cb4277e58f95cfb90c6746b5af3" target="_blank">Elegoo UNO Project Upgraded <b>Smart Robot Car Kit</b> with UNO R3, Line Tracking Module, Ultrasonic Sensor, Bluetooth module ect. Latest Intelligent and Educational Toy Car for Kids Teens 2016 new version</a>, $74</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><i><u>Learning Links</u></i></span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b><b><span style="font-size: large;">1-Beginner:</span></b></div>
<div>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Products" target="_blank">http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Products</a> - it is very important that you thoroughly understand your Arduino --<b>learn all about your particular Arduino board here!</b></li>
<li><a href="http://learn.adafruit.com/category/learn-arduino" target="_blank">http://learn.adafruit.com/category/learn-arduino</a> - <b>absolute beginner tutorials</b>--very fantastic website and information!</li>
<li><a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/HomePage" target="_blank">http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/HomePage</a> - <b>hundreds of beginner tutorials and examples</b></li>
<li><a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/HomePage" target="_blank">http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/HomePage</a> - <b>Arduino reference page</b> -- you will come here often! <b> If you aren't regularly referencing these pages, you should be! <i> </i></b><i>You can also find the entire Arduino Reference right on your computer by going to Help --> Reference right inside the Arduino IDE (Integrated Development Environment). This is SUPER useful when working offline.</i></li>
<li><a href="http://forum.arduino.cc/" target="_blank">http://forum.arduino.cc/</a> - the <b>Arduino forum</b> - ask your questions and get help here</li>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1259641635/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=1259641635&linkId=64534a80184aae81645460173d3aa3df" target="_blank">Programming Arduino Getting Started with Sketches, By Simon Monk</a>, $11 - GREAT BOOK; also teaches the basics of <b>writing your own Arduino libraries</b>.</li>
<ol>
<li><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=1259641635&asins=1259641635&linkId=d255d69f96e4c1b06f8b850e27502027&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2-Intermediate:</span></b></div>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0071830251/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wwwel-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=0071830251&linkId=7fd452be0d257d00a1b000481105ed39" target="_blank">Programming Arduino Next Steps: Going Further with Sketches, By Simon Monk</a>, $14 - GREAT BOOK; among many other things, teaches some <b>more advanced input/output and signal processing techniques for Arduino</b>, as well as <b>how to write your own Arduino libraries.</b></li>
<ol>
<li><iframe frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&OneJS=1&Operation=GetAdHtml&MarketPlace=US&source=ac&ref=tf_til&ad_type=product_link&tracking_id=wwwel-20&marketplace=amazon&region=US&placement=0071830251&asins=0071830251&linkId=f99cecfa06e1ac5e753652a67ad15320&show_border=true&link_opens_in_new_window=true&price_color=333333&title_color=0066c0&bg_color=ffffff" style="height: 240px; width: 120px;">
</iframe></li>
</ol>
<li><a href="http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LibraryList" target="_blank">http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LibraryList</a> - <b>hundreds of user-contributed Arduino Libraries</b> to expand what you can do with your Arduino!</li>
<ol>
<li>Libraries I have contributed have names which begin with "eRCaGuy," so do a search for "eRCaGuy" on this page and you'll see my libraries.</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="http://playground.arduino.cc//Main/InterfacingWithHardware" target="_blank">http://playground.arduino.cc//Main/InterfacingWithHardware</a> - tons of user-contributed code and examples to<b> interface with hardware</b></li>
<li><a href="http://playground.arduino.cc//Main/InterfacingWithSoftware" target="_blank">http://playground.arduino.cc//Main/InterfacingWithSoftware</a> - tons of user-contributed code and examples to<b> interface with software</b> (including data-logging and plotting, live data display, controlling your Arduino via a GUI on your computer, etc)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.cplusplus.com/" target="_blank">http://www.cplusplus.com/</a> - <b>Arduino is based on C/C++.</b> As you become an intermediate user, you need to know that you are NOT limited just to the functions on the main <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/HomePage" target="_blank">Arduino Reference page</a>. Rather, you have access to nearly *any* standard C/C++ function. </li>
<li><b><a href="http://www.nongnu.org/avr-libc/user-manual/modules.html" target="_blank">AVR Libc reference pages</a></b> - This link contains <b>a list of all of the C functions (organized by header files, .h files) that are available for use on ATmega microcontrollers/Arduino!</b> </li>
<ol>
<li>For a real description, & examples, of how to use one of these functions, however, I recommend simply Googling the function name you want, as follows: ex: I want to know how to use "scanf," so I Google "scanf c", and the first link that pops up is this: <a href="http://www.cplusplus.com/reference/cstdio/scanf/" target="_blank">http://www.cplusplus.com/reference/cstdio/scanf/</a>. </li>
<ol>
<li>Or, let's say I don't know that "scanf" exists, but I want to know how to read parts of a string, out of a string. So, I Google "c read parts of a string", and the first link I find is this: <a href="http://bytes.com/topic/c/answers/221802-how-read-part-string" target="_blank">http://bytes.com/topic/c/answers/221802-how-read-part-string</a>. Now, I read their code and see that "scanf" is used in their code, so I can either look for the reference page for this function on Cplusplus.com directly, *or* I can Google "scanf c", as described above, to find a good reference page describing it in detail.</li>
</ol>
<li>Alternatively, you can simply go directly to <a href="http://www.cplusplus.com/" target="_blank">http://www.cplusplus.com/</a>, or other similar C/C++ websites, and search for the function you want to use. Again, an Arduino can use virtually any C/C++ function, since that's what its language is based on!</li>
<li>If any C/C+ function you find does *not* work on Arduino, or acts strangely, however, go back to reference the AVR-libc pages, as AVR-libc is what actually implements the C/C++ language for Atmel's AVR microcontrollers, and not 100% of the functions are implemented. Some deviations may exist. Therefore, some things on cplusplus.com, for example, might not work on the Arduino, but everything in AVR-libc <i>will</i>!</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="http://www.nongnu.org/avr-libc/user-manual/FAQ.html" target="_blank"><b>AVR Libc FAQ</b></a></li>
<ol>
<li>For ex: see the section titled "<a href="http://www.nongnu.org/avr-libc/user-manual/FAQ.html#faq_cplusplus" target="_blank">Can I use C++ on the AVR?</a>", among many others...</li>
</ol>
<li>Learn to write <b>macros</b>, for example, in place of very short functions or repeated operations. Macros are very useful, and you should probably begin to learn to understand and use them as an intermediate programmer. <u>See the top of the "Expert" section below for more information and links</u>. Many of the Arduino "functions," as shown on the <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/HomePage" target="_blank">Arduino Reference page</a> are actually <b>precompiler operations</b>, in the form of macros in this case, rather than true functions. Macros are basically just textual substitutions in your code, and they get substituted into your code by the precompiler *before* the compiler interprets and converts your C code.</li>
</ol>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3-Advanced:</span></b></div>
<ol>
<li>By Ken Shirriff:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.righto.com/2009/07/secrets-of-arduino-pwm.html" target="_blank">http://www.righto.com/2009/07/secrets-of-arduino-pwm.html</a> - an absolutely FANTASTIC article on the intricacies of controlling the <b>low-level PWM capabilities of an AVR microcontrolle</b>r on an Arduino</li>
</ol>
<li>By Nick Gammon:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://gammon.com.au/interrupts" target="_blank">http://gammon.com.au/interrupts</a> - an IMMENSELY USEFUL and well-written article, by Nick Gammon, on <b>AVR microcontroller interrupts</b></li>
<li><a href="http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11504">http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11504</a> - another EXTREMELY USEFUL article by Nick Gammon, on <b>AVR microcontroller timers and counters</b></li>
<li><a href="http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11497" target="_blank">http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=11497</a> - <b>Power saving techniques for microprocessors</b> - very useful if you want your Arduino project to run for a very long time, on battery power, utilizing sleep modes, without a voltage regulator, etc etc.</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/TimerPWMCheatsheet">http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/TimerPWMCheatsheet</a> - excellent info. to help you modify your <b>Arduino PWM</b> output frequencies quickly</li>
<li>ATmega328 Datasheet:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet.pdf">http://www.atmel.com/Images/Atmel-8271-8-bit-AVR-Microcontroller-ATmega48A-48PA-88A-88PA-168A-168PA-328-328P_datasheet.pdf</a> - this is the <b>660 pg. datasheet of the Atmel ATmega 328 microcontroller</b>, used by most Arduinos -- this is an absolutely ESSENTIAL document if you plan on doing low-level Arduino microcontroller programming, including direct manipulation of its timers, ports, registers and things</li>
</ol>
<ol><ol>
<li>Find the main ATmega 328 webpage here: <a href="http://www.atmel.com/devices/atmega328p.aspx">http://www.atmel.com/devices/atmega328p.aspx</a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li>By Mikal Hart :</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://arduiniana.org/" target="_blank">http://arduiniana.org/</a> - Arduiniana - Arduino wisdom and gems by Mikal Hart</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="http://yourduino.com/sunshop2/">http://yourduino.com/sunshop2/</a> and <a href="http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/">http://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/</a> - I have found a lot of good, useful info here.</li>
</ol>
<div>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">4-Expert:</span></b></div>
<ol>
<li>Learn to use the <b>C Preprocessor</b>, and write <b>Macros</b> (writing macros is a very important skill, as many of the core Arduino "functions," such as <a href="http://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/HomePage" target="_blank">lowByte(), highByte(), bitWrite(), etc</a>, are actually macros).</li>
<ol>
<li>The following macros are defined in "Arduino.h" (found on your hard drive at Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino\Arduino.h), for example:</li>
<ol>
<li><i>#define lowByte(w) ((uint8_t) ((w) & 0xff))</i></li>
<li><i>#define highByte(w) ((uint8_t) ((w) >> 8))</i></li>
<li><i>#define bitRead(value, bit) (((value) >> (bit)) & 0x01)</i></li>
<li><i>#define bitSet(value, bit) ((value) |= (1UL << (bit)))</i></li>
<li><i>#define bitClear(value, bit) ((value) &= ~(1UL << (bit)))</i></li>
<li><i>#define bitWrite(value, bit, bitvalue) (bitvalue ? bitSet(value, bit) : bitClear(value, bit))</i></li>
</ol>
<li><b>The C (& C++) Preprocessor (and Macros) tutorial</b></li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.cprogramming.com/tutorial/cpreprocessor.html" target="_blank">http://www.cprogramming.com/tutorial/cpreprocessor.html</a></li>
</ol>
<li><b>C Preprocessor Directives</b></li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.cprogramming.com/reference/preprocessor/" target="_blank">http://www.cprogramming.com/reference/preprocessor/</a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>Arduino Core Library C/C++ Soure Code</b> - Learn to answer your own questions about how Arduino works by reading its C/C++ Source Code for yourself!</li>
<ol>
<li>View it on your hard drive, in the Arduino installation directory.</li>
<li>View it on GitHub here: <a href="https://github.com/arduino/Arduino" target="_blank">https://github.com/arduino/Arduino</a> - use the search box at the top to search the Arduino source code repository, which is very useful to find the definition of various macros or functions you are looking for, since it searches *inside* the files too, not just the file names!</li>
<ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>Compiler Optimization settings</b>: learn to change the GCC compiler optimization settings to optimize your compiled C/C++-to-Assembly-code for compiled size vs run-time speed, etc.</li>
<ol>
<li>Instructables.com: <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-IDE-16x-compiler-optimisations-faster-code/" target="_blank">Arduino IDE 1.6.x compiler optimisations = faster code</a>, by Bodmer</li>
<li><a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc/Optimize-Options.html" target="_blank">https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc/Optimize-Options.html </a></li>
<li><a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gnat_ugn/Optimization-Levels.html" target="_blank">https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gnat_ugn/Optimization-Levels.html</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.rapidtables.com/code/linux/gcc/gcc-o.htm" target="_blank">http://www.rapidtables.com/code/linux/gcc/gcc-o.htm</a></li>
</ol>
<li>Use <b><i>#pragma GCC optimize ("-O2")</i></b>, for example, at the top of your code to change optimization level without having to edit the Arduino platform.txt file (which was described on the Instructable above) - <a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc-4.8.4/gcc/Function-Specific-Option-Pragmas.html" target="_blank">https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc-4.8.4/gcc/Function-Specific-Option-Pragmas.html</a></li>
<li>Learn how to use <b><a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc-4.8.4/gcc/Attribute-Syntax.html#Attribute-Syntax" target="_blank">gcc Attributes</a> </b>(ex: "__attribute__ ((aligned (4)));", "__attribute__ ((__packed__)))", etc.</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc-4.8.4/gcc/Function-Attributes.html#Function-Attributes" target="_blank">Function Attributes</a></li>
<li><a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc-4.8.4/gcc/Variable-Attributes.html#Variable-Attributes" target="_blank">Variable Attributes</a></li>
<li><a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc-4.8.4/gcc/Type-Attributes.html#Type-Attributes" target="_blank">Type Attributes</a></li>
<li><a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc/Attribute-Syntax.html#Attribute-Syntax" target="_blank">Attribute Syntax</a> (more <a href="http://stackoverflow.com/questions/32785259/gcc-precompiler-directive-attribute-cleanup-vs-cleanup-with-vs" target="_blank">here</a>)</li>
<ol>
<li>Key points:</li>
<ol>
<li>"You may optionally specify attribute names with ‘__’ preceding and following the name. This allows you to use them in header files without being concerned about a possible macro of the same name. For example, you may use the attribute name <i>__noreturn__</i> instead of <i>noreturn</i>."</li>
<li>"Type Attributes: An attribute specifier list may appear as part of a struct, union or enum specifier. It may go either immediately after the struct, union or enum keyword, or after the closing brace. <u>The former syntax is preferred...</u>"</li>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>Structure Packing</b> & <b>Data Alignment</b></li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://stackoverflow.com/questions/30038172/adding-unused-elements-to-c-c-structure-speeds-up-and-slows-down-code-executio" target="_blank">http://stackoverflow.com/questions/30038172/adding-unused-elements-to-c-c-structure-speeds-up-and-slows-down-code-executio</a> - links & general info; also info on Data Alignment in the answer by Collin Dauphinee.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.catb.org/esr/structure-packing/" target="_blank">http://www.catb.org/esr/structure-packing/</a> - Structure Packing</li>
<li><a href="http://www.songho.ca/misc/alignment/dataalign.html" target="_blank">http://www.songho.ca/misc/alignment/dataalign.html</a> - Data Alignment</li>
<li>More on "<b>__attribute__((__packed__))</b>" [<--gcc only] and "<b>#pragma pack(1)</b>" [<--preferred]</li>
<ol>
<li>*****Q: What's the difference? <a href="http://stackoverflow.com/questions/32208805/what-is-the-difference-between-attribute-packed-and-pragma-pack1" target="_blank">http://stackoverflow.com/questions/32208805/what-is-the-difference-between-attribute-packed-and-pragma-pack1</a></li>
<ol>
<li>A: "__attribute__((__packed__))" is for gcc (GNU C++) compiler only, whereas "#pragma pack(1)" was originally a Microsoft Visual C++ directive, and is now available in gcc and most compilers. Also: the former applies to the definition it is attached to only; the latter (#pragma pack(1)) applies from that point on, until undone by calling #pragma pack() with no arguments.</li>
</ol>
<li>*****+<a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc/Structure-Packing-Pragmas.html" target="_blank">https://gcc.gnu.org/onlinedocs/gcc/Structure-Packing-Pragmas.html</a>. Key points: </li>
<ol>
<li><b>#pragma pack(n)</b> simply sets the new alignment [to n, where n is a power of 2, ex: 1, 2, 4, 8, 16]; see the Microsoft link below as well</li>
<li><b>#pragma pack()</b> sets the alignment to the one that was in effect when compilation started</li>
</ol>
<li>*****<a href="https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/2e70t5y1.aspx" target="_blank">Microsoft's description of "pack"</a>. Key points: "pack takes effect at the first struct, union, or class declaration after the pragma is seen. pack has no effect on definitions. Calling pack with no arguments sets n to the value set in the compiler option."</li>
<li>****<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=pragma+pack&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS602US602&oq=pragma+pack&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.2210j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8" target="_blank">Google search for "pragma pack"</a></li>
<li><a href="http://stackoverflow.com/questions/14179748/whats-the-difference-between-pragma-pack-and-attribute-aligned" target="_blank">http://stackoverflow.com/questions/14179748/whats-the-difference-between-pragma-pack-and-attribute-aligned</a></li>
<li><a href="https://gcc.gnu.org/ml/gcc/2015-06/msg00112.html" target="_blank">https://gcc.gnu.org/ml/gcc/2015-06/msg00112.html</a></li>
<li><a href="http://stackoverflow.com/questions/8568432/is-gccs-attribute-packed-pragma-pack-unsafe" target="_blank">http://stackoverflow.com/questions/8568432/is-gccs-attribute-packed-pragma-pack-unsafe</a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b>Writing efficient C code for an 8-bit Atmel AVR Microcontroller</b></li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc1497.pdf" target="_blank">AVR035 Efficient C Coding for AVR - doc1497</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.atmel.com/images/doc8453.pdf" target="_blank">AVR4027 Tips and Tricks to Optimize Your C Code for 8-bit AVR Microcontrollers - doc8453</a> - </li>
</ol>
<li><b>Viewing Arduino C/C++ "disassembled" (Assembly language) code</b></li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://rcarduino.blogspot.com/2012/09/how-to-view-arduino-assembly.html" target="_blank">http://rcarduino.blogspot.com/2012/09/how-to-view-arduino-assembly.html</a></li>
<li><a href="http://stackoverflow.com/questions/919781/how-can-i-get-an-assembly-language-listing-of-my-arduino-sketches-on-windows" target="_blank">http://stackoverflow.com/questions/919781/how-can-i-get-an-assembly-language-listing-of-my-arduino-sketches-on-windows</a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">5-Professional:</span></b></div>
<ol>
<li>Todo: add links here; ex: how to produce a professional product perhaps...</li>
</ol>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">A Few Great Arduino Libraries Worth Mentioning:</span></b><br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Arduino Playground: </li>
<ol>
<li><u>Libraries</u>: (Main Arduino user-contributed library list--this link copied from above under the "Intermediate" links): <a href="http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LibraryList" target="_blank">http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LibraryList</a></li>
<li><u>Snippets And Sketches for Arduino</u>: <a href="http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/SketchList" target="_blank">http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/SketchList</a> </li>
</ol>
<li>By Me: click on my "Table of Contents" link at the top of my website, then look under the "ARDUINO LIBRARIES" heading for a list.</li>
<li>By Ken Shirriff:</li>
<ol>
<li>Arduino-IRremote - <a href="http://www.righto.com/2009/08/multi-protocol-infrared-remote-library.html" target="_blank">http://www.righto.com/2009/08/multi-protocol-infrared-remote-library.html</a></li>
</ol>
<li>By Mikal Hart:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://arduiniana.org/" target="_blank">http://arduiniana.org/</a> - see his libraries list in the right-hand pane</li>
</ol>
<li>By Duane B:</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://rcarduino.blogspot.com/2012/10/arduino-serial-servos-20-servos-4-pins.html" target="_blank">http://rcarduino.blogspot.com/2012/10/arduino-serial-servos-20-servos-4-pins.html</a> - he has some great servo code snippets and libraries for the advanced user. For example: control 20 servos using only 4 pins and 2 x 4017 dirt-cheap decade counter IC chips.</li>
<ol>
<li>Base code on his website: <a href="http://rcarduino.blogspot.com/2012/08/arduino-serial-servos.html" target="_blank">http://rcarduino.blogspot.com/2012/08/arduino-serial-servos.html </a></li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li>Also look for anything by Adafruit/LadyAda (Limor Fried) and Simon Monk, of course.</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.adafruit.com/" target="_blank">Adafruit</a> provides code and libraries for nearly every single product they sell. They are one of the #1 supporters of Arduino in the world, and they are US-based!</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/" target="_blank">Sparkfun</a> can be a good resource too--also US-based!</li>
</ol>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Other Inspiring Links:</span></b></div>
<ul>
<li>TED Talk - Massimo Banzi (the primary founder of Arduino) - <a href="http://www.ted.com/talks/massimo_banzi_how_arduino_is_open_sourcing_imagination" target="_blank">How Arduino is Open-Sourcing Imagination</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div>
The End.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><i>If you like this article, please be sure to subscribe to my blog, tweet and like it on Facebook! Links to like and subscribe can be found just below, and at the upper-right of my blog. Look for the "Subscribe & Share" section to the top-right! Also, feel free to leave comments below.</i></span></b></div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-50500085525898977762013-09-18T10:02:00.004-07:002015-05-12T12:48:11.411-07:00Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation - Part 1 of 2<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><b>SUBSCRIBE TODAY TO RECEIVE MY BLOG UPDATES! </b><b> -- CLICK ENVELOPE TO THE RIGHT, & INPUT EMAIL --></b></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation</b><br />
<br />
By: Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 16 July 2013<br />
Last Updated: 13 April 2014<br />
--made a minor correction to an example, & added a plot<br />
--added many more statistical details in order to better explain the accuracy of the equation.<br />
--added Simplified form of eqn. too. - 15 Oct. 2013<br />
--added links to Part 2 of this article - 13 Apr. 2014<br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/04/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation-background.html" target="_blank">Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation - Part 2 of 2 - How Did I Come Up With This Equation?</a></li>
<li>[NEW] <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2015/02/quantifying-amt-of-damage-done-to-LiPo-battery-pack.html#.VNY9aWjF-So" target="_blank">Question About Over-discharged LiPo--How do I quantify the amount of damage done to the battery pack?</a></li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> - learn to control the physical world around you, including your RC vehicles, using computer programming</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/07/hat-cam.html" target="_blank">Hat Cam</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-few-tips-tricks-arduinos-pcb-etchant.html" target="_blank">A Few Tips & Tricks: Arduinos, PCB Tricopter Frames, Home-made Acid Etchant for Copper</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/10/restoring-over-discharged-LiPos.html#.VNYpIWjF-So" target="_blank">Restoring/Recharging Over-discharged LiPo (Lithium Polymer) Batteries!</a></li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Propeller Thrust Equation, & Downloadable Excel Spreadsheet Thrust Calculator:</span></b><br />
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><a href="http://goo.gl/yI8voK" target="_blank">DOWNLOAD MY EXCEL SPREADSHEET THRUST CALCULATOR HERE</a> (click link, then go to File --> Download)</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNrmP70ehy4afh_hetdNhHhsxNscEdUdnbA91ETqcnQA-bpjRl5PK6du3v4i7sAK2891Xb79PuDV7llSYcDIrB2rRp4LVD2Onjc3AwjqzkYZy8X6Z41bg4t3SAxDbuLNnzRmtwWon_W-ML/s1600/static+&+dynamic+thrust+plots+side+by+side.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNrmP70ehy4afh_hetdNhHhsxNscEdUdnbA91ETqcnQA-bpjRl5PK6du3v4i7sAK2891Xb79PuDV7llSYcDIrB2rRp4LVD2Onjc3AwjqzkYZy8X6Z41bg4t3SAxDbuLNnzRmtwWon_W-ML/s640/static+&+dynamic+thrust+plots+side+by+side.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Figure 1: a preview of what is to come - Static Thrust (left) & Dynamic Thrust (right).</b></div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwBhyl83pY7rSX4Rx0fKpj6shhgvmBCBWmeeVLz3AfDi7jDGsHchNks9rbkbNs3beNk-X4GlastINsx5HVGWNO2vD2IS1le4ox-lP2kGhe2HVIl5LBIt8Sgml_0I0tTQCh16HsymCin9Co/s1600/Tower+Hobbies+digital+tach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwBhyl83pY7rSX4Rx0fKpj6shhgvmBCBWmeeVLz3AfDi7jDGsHchNks9rbkbNs3beNk-X4GlastINsx5HVGWNO2vD2IS1le4ox-lP2kGhe2HVIl5LBIt8Sgml_0I0tTQCh16HsymCin9Co/s200/Tower+Hobbies+digital+tach.jpg" width="170" /></a>I have been interested in propellers for a very long time. I've also been interested in how they produce thrust, and how forward velocity affects that thrust. Therefore, I've done a lot of thinking about it, and put a lot of time into understanding them better. Here is an equation that I came up with to quantify the thrust produced by propellers. I wanted it to be a simple approximation, with a minimal number of inputs. Therefore, it uses only the propeller's <b>pitch</b> and <b>diameter</b> (from the numbers on the front of the prop), and the <b>RPMs</b> at which the prop is spinning (this can be measured from a basic optical tachometer such as the <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT31&P=7" target="_blank">one</a> shown in the picture to the left). That's it!<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Here is the equation. </b><br />
<br />
The expanded form is shown to help you see where some of the numbers come from. The simplified form is shown to help you put the equation into a calculator or Excel spreadsheet easier.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSP-_CmvgzG-sLI5aSPl7CDL4F-xdaw1anHHFmiPYRp4SnQ4qZaRPT-vDt9f9bfB_RB3IzTjFjUykJonzEayrJaGuQEa_-X57_XkvxYXksdN0goR2sIos_Kxf9MfmMCHnYMScbIEEjT_lo/s1600/propeller+thrust+eqn+(expanded+AND+simplified).PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSP-_CmvgzG-sLI5aSPl7CDL4F-xdaw1anHHFmiPYRp4SnQ4qZaRPT-vDt9f9bfB_RB3IzTjFjUykJonzEayrJaGuQEa_-X57_XkvxYXksdN0goR2sIos_Kxf9MfmMCHnYMScbIEEjT_lo/s640/propeller+thrust+eqn+(expanded+AND+simplified).PNG" width="640" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>Eqn. 1: Thrust Equations, expanded and simplified forms.</b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<b>F</b> is static or dynamic thrust (it is called static thrust if V0 = 0), in units of newtons (N); <b>RPM</b> is propeller rotations per minute; <b>pitch</b> is propeller pitch, in inches; <b>d</b> is propeller diameter, in inches; and <b>V0</b> is the forward airspeed, freestream velocity, or inflow velocity (depending on what you want to call it), in m/s.<br />
<br />
<b><i>If you want thrust in other units</i>: to convert newtons to grams, multiply newtons by 1000/9.81. To then convert grams to ounces, multiply grams by 0.035274. To convert ounces to pounds, divide ounces by 16. </b><br />
<br />
Note: the equation has a hard-coded atmospheric density of 1.225kg/m^3, which is the "standard day" (avg. annual) density at sea level. Therefore, it will provide a thrust estimate assuming you are at sea level.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">
Example:</span></b><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<b><a href="http://goo.gl/yI8voK" target="_blank">DOWNLOAD MY EXCEL SPREADSHEET THRUST CALCULATOR HERE</a> (click link, then go to File --> Download)</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif51ZLlyEv68ffiuJwbgHi5vR2TK5aCEG5nHgIOdezwnN_PPe2wZ2Z3VkUY9hrnnU5BjZdMb8O2FT5yBi42YVJSRoVI7V9uuroiAu5cWusvj9g-r4qyWD2FslKaFStGNDzL2ieWTIEe20a/s1600/Propeller+Thrust+Calc+-+10x6+propeller+plot.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif51ZLlyEv68ffiuJwbgHi5vR2TK5aCEG5nHgIOdezwnN_PPe2wZ2Z3VkUY9hrnnU5BjZdMb8O2FT5yBi42YVJSRoVI7V9uuroiAu5cWusvj9g-r4qyWD2FslKaFStGNDzL2ieWTIEe20a/s400/Propeller+Thrust+Calc+-+10x6+propeller+plot.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>Figure 2: Dynamic thrust for a 10x6 propeller at 10,500 RPM.</b></div>
<br />
Here is a thrust example, to demonstrate the use of the equation above. Refer to the plot just above, copied from my spreadsheet thrust calculator, whose link is just above the plot. The example is as follows: an airplane has a 10x6 propeller (10 in. diameter, 6 in. pitch), spinning at 10,500 RPMs when at full throttle on the bench. How much static thrust is it producing? Answer: using the equation above, the propeller is producing 1619g, 1.619kg, or 3.57lbs of static thrust. Download the spreadsheet above to change the values for your application.<br />
<br />
At what airspeed will it produce zero thrust (ie: what is it's max thrust-producing airspeed)? Answer: ~60mph. Note: the 60mph is also the <i>pitch speed</i> of the propeller, which is an underestimate of the actual max thrust-producing airspeed, since I have not yet corrected the dynamic-thrust portion of the equation for the effects of things such as camber of the propeller and the unloading of the prop with increasing airspeed.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">
How Accurate Is This Equation?</span></b><br />
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<div>
<br /></div>
<b>Short answer</b>:<br />
<b><i>Static Thrust:</i></b><br />
It's a pretty good to decent ball-park estimate for all props, and a really good estimator for some props. For static thrust, consider the thrust calculation to give you a thrust value accurate to within +/- 26% of the actual thrust for 95% of all cases, and accurate to within +/- 13% for 68% of the cases. Slow Fly (SF) props are the least accurate, and usually produce much more static thrust (up to 67% more) than the equation estimates. Therefore, the worst-case scenario is that your actual thrust will be 1.67 times the value of the calculated thrust, and of the 149 cases I looked at, this only occurred this dramatically in one of the SF prop cases.<br />
<br />
<b><i>Dynamic Thrust:</i></b><br />
For dynamic thrust, consider the equation to be an <u>under</u>estimate of what the propeller is actually doing, by 15~30% when you extrapolate it out using the equation with the RPM value from a static test run. For extrapolating out dynamic thrust from a static test run, a good guess is that the actual zero-thrust airspeed will be around 15~30% higher than what the equation says. In other words, if the equation says you get zero thrust at 60mph, you might actually get zero thrust somewhere in the range of 69mph~78mph (60mph x 1.15 = 69mph, and 60 x 1.30 = 78mph). As I get more dynamic thrust data, I'll work on correcting this to increase the accuracy and confidence of my estimate.<br />
<br />
<b>Long answer:</b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Static Thrust:</i></span></b><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once I got my analytical form of the equation, with many big assumptions
made, I took 149 data points of actual, measured static thrusts from various
propellers from various online sources, and I did an empirical fit to get an
empirical correction constant. <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">The prop sizes ranged from as small as 5x5 to as large as 17x8. </span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span>After
applying the correction factor, here are my results. <span style="color: blue;">Blue diamonds</span> are actual, measured static
thrusts. <span style="color: red;">Red squares</span> are my calculated
results from the equation above, with V0 = 0. As you can see, my semi-empirical
thrust calculation is pretty good, despite its simplicity. All it takes into account, aside from
atmospheric conditions (air density) is propeller <i>RPMs</i>, <i>diameter</i>,
and <i>pitch</i>.<br />
<br />
<b>For the below plot,
across all 149 data points checked, the calculated thrust was <u>at most</u> 30%
higher than the actual thrust, and <u>no lower than</u> 40% less than the actual thrust, with a standard deviation of 13%. </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>For 68% of the cases, or 101 of the 149 cases looked at, my thrust calculation was accurate to within +/- 13% (one standard deviation) of the actual thrust, and for 95% of the cases, or 142 of the 149 cases looked at, my thrust calculation was accurate to within +/-26% (two standard deviations) of the actual thrust.</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>For 58% of the 149 cases, the calculation was a
slight overestimate, and for the remaining 42% of the cases, the calculation
was a slight underestimate. </b> The underestimates were most dramatic for Slow Fly (SF) style props. My equation
is most accurate for standard props, and least accurate for SF style
props, as SF props tend to generate significantly more static thrust (due to their
wider blades) than my calculation predicts. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilF7JCgruL2_tKScx3pd2SPizcHU0UJ6HLjzSo_JmuOoOk-h-RA0imZKtzWbiEfSsD-B0cHD1Tc8xmNf8xuR06P9Zninv_okLMk-vzSpUYnlQ5HmJlYLyuaP7MCXH8NznHCrsqB34piG-t/s1600/Calculated+vs+Actual+Static+Thrust.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilF7JCgruL2_tKScx3pd2SPizcHU0UJ6HLjzSo_JmuOoOk-h-RA0imZKtzWbiEfSsD-B0cHD1Tc8xmNf8xuR06P9Zninv_okLMk-vzSpUYnlQ5HmJlYLyuaP7MCXH8NznHCrsqB34piG-t/s640/Calculated+vs+Actual+Static+Thrust.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Figure 3: 149 Data points of actual vs. calculated static thrust, for propellers ranging from 5x5 ~ 17x8.</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Dynamic Thrust:</i></span></b><br />
Whereas I've had 148 data points to compare to for static thrust, as of today (18 Sept. 2013), I have only had one data point to compare to for dynamic thrust. Therefore, I still have a lot of work to do. Here is that data point below, graciously obtained from <span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">Matthew McCrink of Ohio State University</span>.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10.0pt;">
As the dynamic thrust plot
below shows, the results from my equation show the same basic trends as the
experimental data. The experimental thrust
vs. freestream velocity curve, in blue, is <i>nearly</i> linear, and the calculated
result for a constant propeller RPM <i>is</i> linear. RPMs do increase with freestream velocity
(see RPM plot farther below, also obtained from that experimental data point), as I also hypothesized--presumably because drag on the blades
(tangential to their rotation) decreases since incident angle of attack to the
propeller blades decreases with increased inflow velocity (see propeller diagram
below). One other thing to
consider: my dynamic thrust equation
assumes that the <i>zero-thrust freestream velocity is equal to the propeller’s
“pitch speed,” V<sub>pitch</sub>,</i> since the propeller will have an incident
angle of attack of 0 deg when V<sub>pitch</sub> = V<sub>0</sub>. In other words, the value of the freestream
velocity where my calculated thrust curves intersect the 0 thrust line (y = 0)
is equal to the propeller’s <i>pitch speed</i> at that RPM. However, on a real propeller, <i>with a
cambered airfoil</i>, thrust will still be produced even with a 0 deg incident
angle of attack. <i>Perhaps</i> this
explains why my thrust calculation is an underestimation when compared to the
experimental results: 0 thrust from the
propeller will actually occur when V<sub>0</sub> > V<sub>pitch</sub>, and
the blade α is some
slightly negative value. Again, this
fact will make the experimental dynamic thrust results higher than my
calculated dynamic thrust results, with my calculated dynamic thrust results
having a steeper negative slope than actuality.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAQoG1pBMOvGqMH8-Z048k2ku_TjbyYVaSVhLb5b0B03SE_DqUJGYJloGQXWetPkjqvK__KzZ1rA53vWH0wTLYsbpeDtcLHjCeDfq9QMQWJGldJakJcKSTFPGgx1K9XVty0U1cdhY5knmz/s1600/10x6+Dynamic+Thrust+Plot.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAQoG1pBMOvGqMH8-Z048k2ku_TjbyYVaSVhLb5b0B03SE_DqUJGYJloGQXWetPkjqvK__KzZ1rA53vWH0wTLYsbpeDtcLHjCeDfq9QMQWJGldJakJcKSTFPGgx1K9XVty0U1cdhY5knmz/s640/10x6+Dynamic+Thrust+Plot.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Figure 4: Dynamic thrust wind tunnel data vs. estimates using Equation 1.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmaO9q9mWDXAuE_DAJIzFizpa6-1_UPn_2VAgJN7tg6qogCO4-V9m204xFq0vl6HbABTkGyrk0B0wC1p4TBlo_aRn2e9RHxTLf2s2AKKFWzzBsK7sp5bji244PF4sL0OwiVYuZoEyisI5q/s1600/RPM+plot+for+dynamic+thrust+plot.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmaO9q9mWDXAuE_DAJIzFizpa6-1_UPn_2VAgJN7tg6qogCO4-V9m204xFq0vl6HbABTkGyrk0B0wC1p4TBlo_aRn2e9RHxTLf2s2AKKFWzzBsK7sp5bji244PF4sL0OwiVYuZoEyisI5q/s400/RPM+plot+for+dynamic+thrust+plot.PNG" width="352" /></a></div>
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<b>Figure 5: RPM vs. tunnel velocity for the wind tunnel data above.</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7NNtjelC_tVM5HqCKAdOJbC_Jqwd3fZbARyttQSYaJSNAf6n-7NC_LvKFCewuMpdvPXI_3HlR4g6-ZI2ru0ZF6VQb2_TOQ1fzGJVf1Cjqgy9CXs-EUoFltxcCi8wglYGtiLz1iK-o3vc/s1600/propeller+diagram.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7NNtjelC_tVM5HqCKAdOJbC_Jqwd3fZbARyttQSYaJSNAf6n-7NC_LvKFCewuMpdvPXI_3HlR4g6-ZI2ru0ZF6VQb2_TOQ1fzGJVf1Cjqgy9CXs-EUoFltxcCi8wglYGtiLz1iK-o3vc/s640/propeller+diagram.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: 10pt; text-align: center;">
<b>Figure 6: Propeller diagram, showing how the blade strikes the air, and how its apparent angle of attack, α, decreases with increasing forward airspeed.</b><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">
How Did I Come Up With This Equation?</span></b><br />
<br />
<b>Read here: </b><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/04/propeller-static-dynamic-thrust-equation-background.html" target="_blank">Propeller Static & Dynamic Thrust Calculation - Part 2 of 2 - How Did I Come Up With This Equation?</a><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b><b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i>Please help contribute your thrust data to this project, to help me improve the equation, <a href="http://goo.gl/WJxtvV" target="_blank">by clicking here.</a></i></span></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: large;">Thanks for reading! Sign in with your Google Account or OpenID to post questions or comments below.</span></b><br />
<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com98tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-85280854660172577822013-09-18T06:51:00.002-07:002013-09-18T06:51:55.137-07:00Blog Name Changed18 Sept. 2013<br />
<br />
My blog name has now changed from <span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">"<b>Getting Started in Electric Radio Controlled Aircraft</b>," </span>to <span style="font-size: large;">"<b>ElectricRCAircraftGuy.Blogspot.com -- Knowledge, Tips & Tricks for RC</b>."</span> However, all website links and addresses are unchanged.<br />
<br />
~GS<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-18434804321858529022013-07-15T21:30:00.000-07:002014-01-05T20:13:09.836-08:00The "Staples Stingray" Glider Sneak Peak!<span style="font-size: large;">-Bungee-launched, Free Flight....and flights up to 250 ft. altitude and 1/5 of a mile far!</span><br />
<i><b><br /></b></i>
<i><b>...Pictures, Videos, and more...</b></i><br />
<i><b><br /></b></i>
<i><b>This is a sneak peak at my $5 "Staples Stingray" <u>free-flight</u>, <u>bungee-launched glider</u> I have very recently finished designing, modifying, and testing! </b>The design is a modified version of the <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/nutball_scratch_build" target="_blank">FliteTest Nutball RC airplane</a>, which is a modified version of the <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836389" target="_blank">original Nutball by GoldGuy</a>.</i><br />
<br />
By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 15 July 2013<br />
Updated: 19 July 2013 (added more videos)<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KihexZZHUY" target="_blank">YouTube Video Link Here:</a></span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: right;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">(for links to more videos, go</span></b><b style="text-align: right;"><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"> to the bottom of the post) </span></b></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KihexZZHUY" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjTw7FHCoROQfc61LGq3a_t4el3upvQhkZIZuk-vPtcx-5ymJ4a1I5kWJOuoYQwqOvWRyJ13KlF-82DjClGGpSTsRPmbsIhAW9E7LE_wV-juDi3r1kHCaF2oZfIVy0H-LVHl75eujW0Tzo/s400/Stingray+launch.PNG" height="258" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-flitetest-nutball-swappable.html" target="_blank">Building the FliteTest Nutball Swappable</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with One Motor and One Power Pod!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/07/hat-cam.html" target="_blank">Hat Cam</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/this-is-what-my-nutball-can-do.html" target="_blank">This is What My Nutball (RC version) Can Do!</a> - see my high-powered RC version of this plane on a very windy day</li>
</ul>
<div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTiqRjuXcVinylAWT353oKYxS3Ne3NhRGmHvOaV4gTscQsQ0Sk43tAQGIhcJob5kdscPmQCZTznIcktJDzznswZzbnvWbP5y1DxiL31jar7sF3B596kBXjSMFTD1hF2V2D9X0ZG4rBniY/s1600/IMG_0183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBTiqRjuXcVinylAWT353oKYxS3Ne3NhRGmHvOaV4gTscQsQ0Sk43tAQGIhcJob5kdscPmQCZTznIcktJDzznswZzbnvWbP5y1DxiL31jar7sF3B596kBXjSMFTD1hF2V2D9X0ZG4rBniY/s320/IMG_0183.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a>I have been spending quite some time now (about 3 months), figuring out how to build a SIMPLE, INEXPENSIVE free-flight glider for the Boy Scout troop I work with, and this is what I came up with! I really think this plane does the trick, and it's tons of fun to launch, fly, and even chase and try to catch!<br />
<br />
Here's a description of it that I wrote in my "Getting into Scratch Building...." article above. Click the link at the top of this post to read that article as well:<br />
<br />
"<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; line-height: 20px;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">I have even prototyped and tested, for my local Boy Scout troop working on the </span><a href="http://meritbadge.org/wiki/index.php/Aviation" style="color: #6699cc; font-size: 15px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Aviation merit badge</a><span style="font-size: 15px;">, a $5 free-flight glider based on the NutBall, which is capable of being bungee-launched (via a home-made $25~$35 launcher) to </span><b><span style="font-size: large;">altitudes up to 250 feet</span></b><span style="font-size: 15px;">, and</span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> flying </b><u><b>several hundred yards</b></u><b> distance in a single flight! </b></span><span style="font-size: 15px;"> My wife named it the </span><b><span style="font-size: large;">Stingray </span></b><span style="font-size: 15px;">(see photo of a stingray below), since the glider resembles a stingray flying backwards. I would like to post the plans and video of the Stingray glider and bungee launcher when I get the chance, so other Boy Scout troops and do-it-yourselfers can make one too.</span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"><span style="color: #333333;">...</span></span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0TEaMVvGYGpY-8sKdx-c7ReS4vnAZow7ZlTefwhc6gTJYxHc0DO5msGhVrWFwnVYRgOXE8TNzoPJTWjvRoVSV8KLz2vevP-u62csFBkD1SrhyRZllaWUDh-vP8fwxXixbYPVtovuU79h/s1600/Stingray.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK0TEaMVvGYGpY-8sKdx-c7ReS4vnAZow7ZlTefwhc6gTJYxHc0DO5msGhVrWFwnVYRgOXE8TNzoPJTWjvRoVSV8KLz2vevP-u62csFBkD1SrhyRZllaWUDh-vP8fwxXixbYPVtovuU79h/s200/Stingray.PNG" height="130" width="200" /></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20px;">I have also designed and tested what I call a "training fin" for the NutBall, which can easily be velcroed onto the top of the plane in order to make it self-right (roll level automatically) whenever it is banked. This is really useful for a beginner as well. (More to come on this; I need to write a post on it still too)."</span><br />
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Here are some sneak-peak photos of my new Stingray Free-flight glider below. <br />
<a name='more'></a></div>
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(Below) Stingray glider next to 3 separate bungee launchers: a short, medium, and long one. <b>The short one launches to ~90 ft high, the medium one to ~150 ft high, and the long one to a maximum of ~250 ft high.</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQSz13IGSQ4dIrG3c8nOtYPkx_Al9_bqWk20Fbtjpp050yaA0OlbBcauNuHLeF8TGABcNpFtQtFngplOhi8fQpLIYgw0JcX7rZ2e6QYUGoXZNXbDEpNDhX22zsUaIPUjsUIx1Btu-ukedr/s1600/IMG_0185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQSz13IGSQ4dIrG3c8nOtYPkx_Al9_bqWk20Fbtjpp050yaA0OlbBcauNuHLeF8TGABcNpFtQtFngplOhi8fQpLIYgw0JcX7rZ2e6QYUGoXZNXbDEpNDhX22zsUaIPUjsUIx1Btu-ukedr/s400/IMG_0185.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKn1sH60zsozTx_4rgdsgFQK2JHsWXTRii0GI0LaBLjZhyphenhyphenM19jkHwBPkyNlERnaVrlFgiANaTBWr6Kn38_eHjbLXe2npWjiKrSVtjO0YgewpCo7AsGTILXpSl8Y4NL4cClJxYNYTHAA0l5/s1600/IMG_0186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKn1sH60zsozTx_4rgdsgFQK2JHsWXTRii0GI0LaBLjZhyphenhyphenM19jkHwBPkyNlERnaVrlFgiANaTBWr6Kn38_eHjbLXe2npWjiKrSVtjO0YgewpCo7AsGTILXpSl8Y4NL4cClJxYNYTHAA0l5/s400/IMG_0186.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a><br />
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<h2>
<b>Stingray Glider Videos:</b></h2>
<b>1) <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHUJE-4DOFc" target="_blank">Flight Test Crashing--(Approximately failed flight #50/70...ish in the flight-test phase)</a> </b>(yeah.....this happened a LOT.....I flight tested for well over 12 hrs. before I got this glider to repeatedly work, not to mention the dozens of hours in the workshop figuring things out with how to modify things and build the launchers, launch hook, fix the plane, etc)<br />
<b>2) <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KihexZZHUY" target="_blank">"Staples Stingray" Free-flight glider bungee launch w Lauren & Carter, Med launcher</a> --</b>Excellent Flight!<br />
<b>3) <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmS7rymE9h4" target="_blank">"Staples Stingray" Bungee-launched Glider Backflip/Loop</a></b><br />
<b>4) <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Geag4GqA-vo" target="_blank">Staples Stingray glider launch</a>---</b>oops, I left the elevator set way too high from the loop flight<br />
<b>5) <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xYeGHeYRVk" target="_blank">Stingray Free-flight glider bungee launch & Catch!</a> </b>- I caught it!<br />
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<b>Let me know what you think via the Comments section below! </b> Just click the "no comments" link underneath this post if you are leaving the first comment. Thanks!<br />
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<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script async src="//pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/js/adsbygoogle.js"></script>
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<br />
<u><b>Other RC Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-few-tips-tricks-arduinos-pcb-etchant.html" target="_blank">Arduino Microcontrollers, PC Board Tricopter Frames, & Home-made Cupric Acid Etchant</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with One Motor and One Power Pod!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
Here are some pictures of my hat-camera. No, this is not my original idea. I got it from other people online, and simply picked up some hardware from Home Depot that I thought would work best. Here are some photos of what I put together. I've been using the hat cam now for a couple years and it works great! It doesn't aim perfectly (it usually aims just a little too high when I am really close to something, and just a little too low when I am very far away), but it works well enough most of the time. The hat was free basically, since I had plenty of them lying around, and the hardware costed something like $3 maybe. Certainly a wise investment I'd say.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEyOM-Id9bA11VIvU625T5oJaaJYv8_peGUrnTZy0WQJxHDbu-k1ClNNtioc_hyc3IEhKAVlA52UYFZ4MduEzs3jMlvN0R9McvCSupVdN208N0f8B6T_8EU9vGfys7qhPsui09BF2TXopR/s1600/IMG_0176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEyOM-Id9bA11VIvU625T5oJaaJYv8_peGUrnTZy0WQJxHDbu-k1ClNNtioc_hyc3IEhKAVlA52UYFZ4MduEzs3jMlvN0R9McvCSupVdN208N0f8B6T_8EU9vGfys7qhPsui09BF2TXopR/s640/IMG_0176.JPG" height="476" width="640" /></a></div>
Additional pictures can be seen below:<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGwzWtXX-BwNHeGh-uYrp1stDr_Pi0Kt7exGnrRFa0pAlZk3NWIzb7vz6zKe8EV3jgSqVi7pa7i0vSIYV3VgB4fHCDEY5i0tdOvBwC3sMq8do77q0RG4vizpwlA11dvoe5dxHfnRx5dc7/s1600/IMG_0177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGwzWtXX-BwNHeGh-uYrp1stDr_Pi0Kt7exGnrRFa0pAlZk3NWIzb7vz6zKe8EV3jgSqVi7pa7i0vSIYV3VgB4fHCDEY5i0tdOvBwC3sMq8do77q0RG4vizpwlA11dvoe5dxHfnRx5dc7/s640/IMG_0177.JPG" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim2bxXkrnYGwx6CBXch3b_jmYH0Vz4aRgwIl-Z8J7DGgfyGGFstUskoq73rPmanUxj5-m0mHDlGSi9_Qw3jrqmD3r3gIQRJgE0iH-1SsPuIjuhaSWpqDgJrFLmTVqTTncXBAthJSgSYVxa/s1600/IMG_0178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim2bxXkrnYGwx6CBXch3b_jmYH0Vz4aRgwIl-Z8J7DGgfyGGFstUskoq73rPmanUxj5-m0mHDlGSi9_Qw3jrqmD3r3gIQRJgE0iH-1SsPuIjuhaSWpqDgJrFLmTVqTTncXBAthJSgSYVxa/s640/IMG_0178.JPG" height="640" width="478" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
(below) under-side of the hat</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBv7a98GRqIPsoxobnPJHepPMI8akMi-adS3wnlPtvDZaOPyae4lzliZB96YvKWsAewNIDzU9vzb7OiceCejX3qVvvCFpWBAFtSWlkdPBduTM2DRawJLtuAcKydmb0n2ZIygmfwM9I1t5p/s1600/IMG_0179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBv7a98GRqIPsoxobnPJHepPMI8akMi-adS3wnlPtvDZaOPyae4lzliZB96YvKWsAewNIDzU9vzb7OiceCejX3qVvvCFpWBAFtSWlkdPBduTM2DRawJLtuAcKydmb0n2ZIygmfwM9I1t5p/s640/IMG_0179.JPG" height="640" width="478" /></a></div>
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<br />
<u><b>Actual RC-Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-few-tips-tricks-arduinos-pcb-etchant.html" target="_blank">A Few Tips & Tricks: Arduinos, PCB Tricopter Frames, & Home-made Acid Etchant for Copper</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor and ONE Power Pod!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
</ul>
<u><b><br /></b></u>
<u><b>A Brief Interjection:</b></u><br />
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So, I am married. If you are too, or if you talk to any females regularly, you'll know as I know, that this concept is really hard to get (and I'm still trying to learn it :))......that is........<b><span style="font-size: large;">IT'S NOT ABOUT THE NAIL!</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/66753575" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ3mpNt6EebF8b-ftFW2WRcRKL-lTVMbcBcH3ftwhWlIcsrJWoNGrGQfChqVY_oY4HmnvVDFXekmgDQ2h2x9bSR3dcDbwB9fBlTK7jIFKeThlBzI4lr08C87C-X6UqFtIqSXvOzLNOQo5I/s640/It's+not+about+the+nail.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Written: 28 May 2013<br />
Updated: 30 Oct. 2013<br />
-added link to LadyAda's Arduino Uno FAQ<br />
-added link to Arduino Nano V3.0 on Ebay<br />
<br />
<u><b>Other Articles You May Be Interested in Reading:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor & ONE Power Pod!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
So, this month I've been dabbling into a few new RC airplane areas that I have previously not looked into. You may wonder how these topics in the title relate to RC airplanes? Well, for me, everything does :), so let's briefly discuss:<br />
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<b><span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-size: large;">Arduino & Microcontrollers:</span></b><br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">What is Arduino? Well, Arduino is a small interface board which connects to your computer via a USB cable, and consists of an Atmel microcontroller chip, or "brain," which can do a variety of functions and processing, as well as circuitry to enable you to connect to it via a USB cable, in addition to a voltage regulator and input and output ports. Basically, it is a development or experiment board which allows you to plug in sensors and circuitry and do anything you can imaging via your own personal ingenuity and programming skills---yet it is inexpensive and simple enough that anyone can get started. It is especially designed for the non-programmer. </span><a href="http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Introduction" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;" target="_blank">Here is Arduino's description of themselves</a><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">. A few things that make Arduino unique are its <b>price</b>, <b>ease of use and programming</b>, and the fact that it is <b>open-source</b>. Open-source means that its parts, pieces, construction, and coding are all available to the public, and that its software is FREE. This is the counterpart to "proprietary," which means that something is owned by a company and its internal workings are generally guarded and kept secret in order to prevent others from duplicating it.</span><br />
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You might not know it, but the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microcontroller" target="_blank">microcontroller, or MCU</a>, which is the heart of the Arduino, is a very common-place item in today's electronics. Modern RC radio transmitters use them, for example, as well as ESCs (Electronic Speed Controllers) and "smart" battery chargers such as the <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680</a>. <br />
Many UAVs (Unmanned Aerial Vehicles) use microcontroller-based autopilots! Now, with Arduino, <br />
<a name='more'></a>you can put this computing power into your own hands, and by following online tutorials you can make it do anything from blinking an LED to having it automatically send you a text message or email whenever someone walks past a motion sensor. I am planning on using one to create an altimeter and datalogger, as well as a current sensor and datalogger. All of these things are easily possible. Arduino microcontrollers are exceptional also in their prices, as they can cost as little as $10 on HobbyKing, or ~$22 on Amazon! I recommend you get on Amazon now and do a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=arduino" target="_blank">search for Arduino</a> just to see some of what is available. </div>
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Though I am a brand new Arduino hands-on user, I’ve done a lot of online research on it and seen many amazing projects done with it. Arduino is a very powerful tool, and will certainly enhance any engineer’s skill-set as well and make them a much better engineer. It will also open up a whole new world to RC hobbyists and enable you to do virtually anything you can imagine but didn't otherwise know how to make happen. Below, you will see many links. The tutorials in the links range from very simple (blinking an LED) to very complex (sending you an automated email when someone walks past a motion-sensor). </div>
<div class="yiv2424998032MsoNormal" id="yui_3_7_2_1_1369667667988_13608">
<ul>
<li style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Arduino
homepage:</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://arduino.cc/" target="_blank">http://arduino.cc/</a> </span></li>
<li style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">More Information on Arduino</span></li>
<ul>
<li style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://learn.adafruit.com/arduino-tips-tricks-and-techniques/arduino-uno-faq" target="_blank">Arduino Uno FAQ by LadyAda</a></span></li>
</ul>
<li style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Examples of
where to purchase:</span></li>
<ul style="background-color: white;">
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-UNO-board-DIP-ATmega328P/dp/B006H06TVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369009851&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino" target="_blank">Arduino Uno on </a></span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-UNO-board-DIP-ATmega328P/dp/B006H06TVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369009851&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino" target="_blank">Amazon</a>, $21.95.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Kit-Newsite-Uno-Breadboard/dp/B0051QHPJM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369714566&sr=8-2&keywords=arduino" target="_blank">Arduino starter kit on Amazon</a>, $31.99.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=25085&aff=281904" target="_blank">Arduino Mega on HobbyKing</a> (this is a FANTASTIC price), ~$20. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=26839&aff=281904" target="_blank">Arduino Ethernet Shield on HobbyKing</a> (allows you to connect your Arduino to the internet, but requires a separate stand-alone Arduino board), ~$18</span></li>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Ethernet-Shield-R3/dp/B006UT97FE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373851809&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+ethernet" target="_blank">Here it is on Amazon for $28.50</a></span></li>
</ul>
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-A000050-Ethernet/dp/B005D1U3TY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373851862&sr=8-3&keywords=arduino+ethernet" target="_blank">Arduino Ethernet on Amazon</a>, $56 --this is the stand-alone version of the <i>entire internet-capable Arduino & microcontroller interface board</i>--no separate Ethernet Shield required!</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=37328&aff=281904" target="_blank">Arduino-based Autopilot on HobbyKing</a>, $76</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;"><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-USB-Nano-V3-0-ATmega328P-5V-Micro-controller-Board-For-Arduino-compatible-/130977189883" target="_blank">Arduino Nano V3.0 for <$9 WITH SHIPPING, on Ebay!</a> (Note, in case the link goes bad when the listing ends, the name of the listing is "Mini USB Nano V3.0 ATmega328P 5V Micro-controller Board For Arduino-compatible," and I've seen this same one sold by sellers "axeprice" and "comelili."). I own this one, from Ebay, and it works great! The <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardNano" target="_blank">nano</a> has all of the same features as the <a href="http://arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardUno" target="_blank">Uno</a>, except it is smaller is all. </span></li>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2WKHg0dMXVMMZWel8kypiSPUtzHrBDNUuUxCo4_ZJb9oztI3p1XPrUMn7DlSlKWGQc7aNqmF-8dpkCsymRNgRAwCuZskgCDenE24dVEyh9VSiiHpOSN8tHMKrhLBKYtSOCGlat8-OZE-/s1600/Arduino+nano+v3.0+on+Ebay.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2WKHg0dMXVMMZWel8kypiSPUtzHrBDNUuUxCo4_ZJb9oztI3p1XPrUMn7DlSlKWGQc7aNqmF-8dpkCsymRNgRAwCuZskgCDenE24dVEyh9VSiiHpOSN8tHMKrhLBKYtSOCGlat8-OZE-/s320/Arduino+nano+v3.0+on+Ebay.PNG" height="161" width="320" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;"><br /></span></li>
</ul>
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">and many more; Google it!</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=27990&aff=281904" target="_blank">USBasp AVR(Atmel microcontroller) Programming Device</a> (you don’t need this to get started,
but you will need it to reload the bootloader onto an Arduino, which is
sometimes necessary, so I *highly* recommend it!)</span></li>
</ul>
<li style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">FREE Online Tutorials:</span></li>
<ul style="background-color: white;">
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">THESE LOOK VERY GOOD:
<a href="http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/index.html" target="_blank">http://www.ladyada.net/learn/arduino/index.html</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">More tutorials-ALSO LOOK VERY GOOD
(including an Arduino selection guide, and lessons 0-17):
<a href="http://learn.adafruit.com/category/learn-arduino" target="_blank">http://learn.adafruit.com/category/learn-arduino</a></span></li>
</ul>
<li style="background-color: white;">Books: </li>
<ul style="background-color: white;">
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Programming-Arduino-Getting-Started-Sketches/dp/0071784225" target="_blank">Programming Arduino Getting Started with Sketches[Paperback], by Simon Monk</a>, $11.29</li>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Cookbook-Michael-Margolis/dp/1449313876/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2IKCICLWUXW89&coliid=IYS8WSRREYK9S" target="_blank">Arduino Cookbook, by Michael Margolis</a>, $27.23</li>
</ul>
<li style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Electronics:
you’ll need a breadboard, jumper cables, LEDs, resistors, etc, according to the project you are working on, or what you want to experiment with or try on your own.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Amazon and Radioshack have some great stuff
to get started with Arduino.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">However,
hands down, the cheapest prices I’ve ever found for basic electronics like resistors,
breadboards, jumper wires, capacitors, transistors, voltage regulators, etc,
are from Chinese or other Asian vendors on Ebay when you use the “Buy it Now”
option.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">You can even add stuff to a
shopping cart on ebay and pay for it all at once.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Note: these are NEW items on Ebay, NOT
used.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Many people don’t know that eBay
is beginning to function more like Amazon now in the sense that there are
stores and vendors on Ebay selling new items.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Their prices are incredible.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">For
example, I got a pack of 600 assorted resistors on eBay for ~$3.50 with FREE
shipping.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">A similar item on Amazon is
>$9.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">These prices for basic
electronics easily (usually) beat RadioShack, Amazon, Digikey,
Mouser, etc.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">The advantage of Amazon is
shipping time.</span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">Ebay items usually take
3~5 weeks to arrive, whereas Amazon items can be there in 2 days. Your choice.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;"><a href="http://www.diydrones.com/notes/ArduPilot" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">Arduino-based Autopilot, called the "ArduPilot." </a> (The online user manual wiki is here: <span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://ardupilot.com/" target="_blank">http://ardupilot.com/</a>). Get your vehicle to navigate autonomously. Also check out </span><a href="http://diydrones.com/" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">diydrones.com</a><span style="background-color: white;"> and click on --> ArduPlane, ArduCopter, and ArduRover to see or purchase airplanes, multirotors, and ground vehicles all controlled autonomously using an Arduino-based autopilot. </span><span style="background-color: cyan;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=37328&aff=281904" target="_blank">You can also purchase an "ArduPilot"-based autopilot on HobbyKing for only $76 here!</a></span></span></li>
</ul>
</div>
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<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">PCB (Printed Circuit Board) Tricopter Frames:</span></b><br />
<div style="font-size: 16px;">
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b></div>
</div>
<div class="yiv2424998032MsoNormal" id="yui_3_7_2_1_1369667667988_13608" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
As of late, I am working on a tricopter frame. I am following, somewhat at least, <a href="http://rcexplorer.se/projects/2011/09/the-tricopter-v2-5/" target="_blank">David's fantastic tutorial here</a>, which uses a PCB frame from <a href="http://rcexplorer.se/projects/2010/03/the-tricopter-v1-and-v1-5/" target="_blank">his earlier tutorial here</a>. In order to do follow his steps, I did some research and purchased the cheapest PC Board money could buy. I found it on Ebay. I got <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-10-x-15CM-Single-sided-PCB-CCL-fiberglass-board-FR4-1-5MM-thick-/130768866804?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e726e8df4" target="_blank">5 pieces of 10x15 cm, 1.5mm thick, PC Board, here for only $8.99 with FREE shipping</a>. You can find it by clicking the previous link, or by searching for the words "<span style="background-color: transparent;">5pcs 10 x 15CM Single-sided PCB" on Ebay. When I got to David's step which said, "</span><span style="background-color: transparent;">To remove weight I etched away the copper from the glass
fibre laminates," I thought that this sounded like a good idea. I also wanted</span> to remove the copper in order to minimize any interference that might occur with my receiver or telemetry transmitter. However, I <span style="background-color: transparent;">was ignorant and thought that to "etch" meant to scratch away with a knife. After unsuccessfully attempting for a few minutes to scratch or peel off the copper with a knife, I did some research. Three hours later I had discovered a few things and done a lot of reading and learning. I learned that 1) Etching in this case means "to chemically dissolve." 2) Ferric Chloride is the most common etchant, and</span><a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102868" style="background-color: transparent;" target="_blank"> is available from Radio Shack for only $11.49 here</a><span style="background-color: transparent;">. If you use this to etch away, or dissolve the copper, do *not* throw away the used copper etchant solution. It is a hazardous material and cannot just be disposed of on the ground or in the sink or toilet. Rather, put it back in the bottle and reuse it again and again. Eventually it will lose its effectiveness and you'll have to properly dispose of it and buy more. 3) Why use Ferric Chloride, which costs $11.49 for 2 measly cups, when I can instead make gallons of infinitely reusable copper etchant for the same price? Not only that, but it's more fun to make my own etchant. That leads me to my next topic:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="yiv2424998032MsoNormal" id="yui_3_7_2_1_1369667667988_13608" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif;">
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Home-made Hydrochloric Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide Copper Etchant Solution</span></b><br />
<div style="font-size: 16px;">
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b></div>
</div>
<div class="yiv2424998032MsoNormal" id="yui_3_7_2_1_1369667667988_13608" style="background-color: white; font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
I discovered this fantastic tutorial here on instructables.com: <span style="background-color: transparent;"><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/" target="_blank">Stop using Ferric Chloride etchant! (A better etchingsolution.) by The Real</a>. I then went to Home Depot and bought <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acid" target="_blank">Muriatic Acid (or Hydrochloric Acid; see Wikipedia here)</a> (costs ~$13 for 2 gallons), and I went to Wal-mart and bought hydrogen peroxide in the pharmacy section for $0.88 for a large bottle. I cut the top off an old laundry detergent bottle to use as a soak-pan for the PC Board, and I got an empty and rinsed milk jug for the storage container of my etchant. I poured 1 part (2/3 cup in my case) hydrochloric acid into 2 parts (1 1/3 cup in my case) hydrogen peroxide, in the laundry detergent bottle, then placed in the PC board. It immediately began to bubble and fume. <b>I did NOT do this indoors</b>. <b> The solution is VERY powerful and harmful</b>. I did it <b>outside</b> in my driveway. <b>I wore rubber gloves and had on safety goggles</b>. <b>DO NOT BREATHE THE HYDROCHLORIC ACID FUMES. THEY ARE VERY STRONG</b>. With some gentle agitation, the copper was all dissolved in only 6.5 minutes or so. I am storing the solution in my garage, as it is capable of dissolving virtually all metals, including nails and copper, and aluminum too from what I've read, and I don't want it in the house. It also seems to dissolve asphalt. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent;">Now, I have a pretty green solution for future use dissolving more copper!</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent;"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<span style="background-color: transparent;">PLEASE POST ANY QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS BELOW.</span></h3>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-78448778546311408042013-04-30T18:30:00.000-07:002016-12-03T19:11:02.616-08:00Beginner RC Helicopter & QuadrocopterBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 13 Jan 2013<br />
Last updated: 3 Dec 2016<br />
Update History (newest on top):<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-3 Dec. 2016, updated dead link to micro heli (now linked to "v911" search results on eBay), and updated links to some other small parts too</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">-6 Oct. 2013, added links to micro quadrocopters</span><br />
<br />
<u><b>Related Articles:</b></u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
</ul>
For those of you who have tried a 3-Channel micro helicopter or two (ex: virtually any helicopter that you might see at a mall), you are probably ready to try something a little bit better. Well, don't go out quite yet and spend hundreds on a 6-Channel fully acrobatic collective pitch heli. Rather, get a nice single-rotor 4-Channel beginner micro heli that can take some abuse while still teaching you more skills. Once you master a micro 4-Channel heli, then take the step up to a several hundred dollar 6-Channel helicopter, and start flying <b>slowly and carefully</b> as it will be much more difficult still than the 4-channel heli. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=21316&aff=281904" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheeO-jBfLzO4HVOwGdzFoFC63VynF0jW-iiDQPsivF8mFF96SC3auAoa8PvwNoDp6oUhT3N4Uea11ZvEXXQiO6N7FDnwT723ruCvuMiJKDh163rQTegHeOjqQta2r4vv8SeYKx59t2dfqO/s320/HK+FP100+1.PNG" width="320" /></a><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=21316&aff=281904" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifTkJo3GD3tJ306MPb3_W67LeGhpb1YgqWvqDjl2pcBckKxox7cwfVjLoHNSTnVQoMsiFQYp-8MfXYL0Y7Ei1IEJHMZIr6IvJDvw7WdE5TFwwhIZF_faGXYNF6EWlg3rwfFyC6SuSJOHcn/s320/HK+FP100+2.PNG" width="320" /></a>So, which one to buy? Well, I have the <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=21316&aff=281904" target="_blank">HobbyKing FP100 ($29 + shipping)</a> (also see the "v911" eBay links below) (shown to the right), and I love it! It flies very well, gives you those extra skills you need while providing more challenge and capability, and yet is still so light that it is durable and can take quite a few crashes without breaking. And if you break it? --you can <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__529__479__Helicopters_Parts-FP100_Parts.html" target="_blank">buy spare parts</a>!<br />
<br />
<i><b>How is this different from a 3-Channel Helicopter? </b></i><br />
A 3-Channel helicopter has a left stick which controls throttle, and a right stick which controls pitch and yaw. There is no roll control, and pitch is <b>extremely</b> limited, since it is done simply via a tiny horizontal propeller near the tail which spins to create lift and slightly raise or lower the tail, thereby providing forward or aft movement. A 3-Channel heli, therefore, is very limited in control authority, and can rarely go faster than a walking speed. Another serious limitation is that they usually use infrared transmitters, which have a very short range, and are affected by sunlight. Therefore, they are usually only indoor helicopters due to their ultra limited control (inability to counter even the slightest wind gusts), and infrared antennas which are susceptible to interference from the sun. (Note: infrared transmitters are usually identifiable by a small, usually red, plastic cover near their top, instead of an antenna).<br />
<br />
<i><b>So, what is the extra channel on a 4-Channel helicopter? </b></i><br />
A 4-Channel helicopter, on the other hand, is highly maneuverable in comparison <br />
<a name='more'></a>to a 3-channel helicopter. For a 4-Channel heli, the left stick controls throttle (up and down stick movement) and yaw (left and right stick movement), and the right stick controls pitch (up and down stick movement) and roll (left and right stick movement). Whereas with the 3-Channel heli you were extremely limited and had only 4 degrees of freedom (pitch and yaw rotation; and up and down and forward and aft translation), with the 4-Channel heli you now have a fully-functional helicopter with 6 degrees of freedom (pitch, roll, and yaw rotation; and up and down, forward and aft, and left and right translation)! <i>How does this work?</i> Well, instead of the tiny horizontal propeller at the tail used to induce a very slight amount of pitch control, you have a conventional helicopter tail with a vertical tail rotor, and a main rotor with cyclic pitch controlled via a swash plate and two ultra micro servos. In other words, through a specialized rotor head setup, a plastic mechanism in the rotor, called a swash plate, is actually tilted in various directions in order to cause the main rotor blades to pitch up and down <i>as they rotate</i>, thereby creating more or less lift in just the right locations throughout the rotation, so as to induce <i>helicopter pitch and roll</i> via gyroscopic precessional forces and the resultant thrust vectoring (want more info about helicopter control? Visit here: <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page-6-helicopter-control-explanation-gyroscopic-precession" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page-6-helicopter-control-explanation-gyroscopic-precession</a>). <br />
<br />
In other words, a beginner micro 4-Channel helicopter can now strafe rapidly left and right, and pitch forward or aft enough that you can get it to go as fast as a rapid sprinting speed. Not only that, but the radio transmitter now uses a conventional antenna and has a range close to 100 ft. Outdoor flying with the FP100 is easily possible in winds up to ~5 mph, and rapid flying and minor stunts (no loops, rolls, or inverted flight, however) can also be performed!<br />
<br />
Note: the bar in the picture above, which lies above the main rotor blades, is called a flybar. In "beginner" 4-channel designs, this flybar is at a 45 degree angle to the main blades. This effectively creates a natural pitch and roll stability, or a slightly self-stabilizing tendency, in the helicopter in the roll and pitch axes--similar to what dihedral or polyhedral does for an airplane in the roll axis. More aerobatic helicopters (such as 6-Channel helis) either have a 90 degree-oriented flybar, or no flybar at all (note: having no flybar requires a 3-axis rate gyro sensor computer-stabilization system, however)! So....the FP100 truly is a fully functional, yet still an excellent beginner helicopter!<br />
<br />
And how good of a deal is this? Well, this $29 helicopter from HobbyKing comes to ~$50 with shipping, but would cost you over $100 to purchase a similar helicopter elsewhere! Don't believe me? Check this out: <br />
<a href="http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/utm_source/ExactTarget/utm_medium/Email/utm_content/image/_utm_term/Align-Trex-100X/cPath/2_382_707/products_id/220852/n/Align-T-Rex-100X-Super-Combo-Electric-RTF-Micro-Helicopter-Kit?utm_source=2012_12_14_RC_Universe&utm_medium=email&utm_content=image&utm_campaign=2012-RC_Universe-Newsletter&%20utm_term=Align-Trex-100X&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_campaign=" target="_blank">Nearly identical heli here for $110.</a> <br />
<br />
Oh, and by the way, it comes with *everything* you need!--heli, radio, built-in servos and receiver, 2 batteries, and even a cheap little USB charger! Want to upgrade and get more batteries? See below for the link to the additional batteries I purchased for just over $1 each. I had to modify the heli to make it work with these batteries, so if you want the details of that modification, comment below. With my modification, the heli still works with the old batteries (the ones it came with) though too. Want to charge up to 18 or more batteries all at once? See the links below. I use a couple special harnesses (items 3 and 4 in the list below) to charge all 14 of my FP100 batteries <i>at once, on a single charger, in only one hour! </i>Pretty crazy right? Here's the concept of how I do it; it's called "<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging</a>." <span style="background-color: yellow;">Make sure to read my entire <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging article</a> before you attempt this process, however, as it requires a solid understanding, unless you want to damage your batteries and possibly cause a fire. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Lastly, here are some <u>other excellent, <i>economical</i> 4-channel micro beginner helis I'd recommend</u>:</b><br />
-<strike>HobbyKing HK-190: </strike><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18746&aff=281904" style="text-decoration: line-through;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18746&aff=281904</a> UPDATE (dead link), just use the HobbyKing "FP100" link above, or this Ebay link instead: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=4-ch+helicopter&_sop=12&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=v911&_sacat=0" target="_blank">eBay search for "v911" (the same exact helicopter) (cost: $20~$40, with *FREE* shipping!)</a><br />
--Specific example: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/WLtoys-V911-RC-Helicopter-Drone-Radio-4CH-2-4G-Single-Blade-Gyro-RTF-US-NB7C-/262208336404" target="_blank">"WLtoys V911 RC Helicopter Drone Radio 4CH 2.4G Single Blade Gyro RTF US NB7C", $20.54 + $9.99 shipping</a> - comes with the 4-Ch helicopter, Tx, charger, and micro LiPo x 2<br />
-Xheli's H995, V911, or 9958: <a href="http://www.xheli.com/4fixmicro.html" target="_blank">http://www.xheli.com/4fixmicro.html </a><br />
<br />
<br />
========================================================================<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: cyan;"><b>4-Channel Quadrocopters (added 6 Oct. 2013):</b> </span>So, with the recent craze for micro quads, and with the fantastic technological leaps that have been made in MEMS (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microelectromechanical_systems" target="_blank">microelectromechanical systems</a>) sensors, and on-board stabilization and processing, I thought I better put a link to a micro quad or two as well!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ZpEjj4nZv-3M6zsqvgq9HvSB5WD6Bt38AXKBt8o2aB-SER-QKoexGPe8R6LU0Mjmol-jIl7xhVV3WyVyHfObcrFXjvbsendq7Mu20mKH3-MhdfOGrs0CVAxvSzjP8UCFy4LgcBTQEYzJ/s1600/Micro+quad.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ZpEjj4nZv-3M6zsqvgq9HvSB5WD6Bt38AXKBt8o2aB-SER-QKoexGPe8R6LU0Mjmol-jIl7xhVV3WyVyHfObcrFXjvbsendq7Mu20mKH3-MhdfOGrs0CVAxvSzjP8UCFy4LgcBTQEYzJ/s320/Micro+quad.PNG" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
The picture to the left is called the "UDI 6 Axis Stablized UFO Quadcopter," and I own one! It is a fantastic flier, and frankly, it is much better than my FP100 helicopter I bragged about so much above. It can handle much more wind (up to ~10mph max), go much faster (hard to tell, but perhaps 30mph???), has way more thrust (climbs like a rocket), and can do flips at the push of a button (though sadly, manual flips are NOT possible, as the sticks control pitch and roll angles directly and it is angle-limited, via its firmware [on-board flight controller code], to 25~30 deg max in pitch and roll). I'd like to add that it's name is misleading, as it's not really a "6 Axis" anything. Rather, it has 3-Axis stabilization and 6-Degree of Freedom control. I know it has a 3-Axis gyroscope sensor, so perhaps the "6-Axis" claim means it also has a 3-Axis accelerometer sensor too, but I am unsure. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/UDI-Axis-Stablized-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B0095BXACK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381110386&sr=8-2&keywords=ufo+quad+six-axis" target="_blank">Anyway, it can be purchased on Amazon Prime for only $36 here!</a><br />
<br />
-<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Syma-Channel-2-4G-Quad-Copter/dp/B00906PKQ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381110353&sr=8-1&keywords=ufo+quad" target="_blank">Another option is the Syma quadcopter for $34.49 on Amazon Prime here</a>.<br />
<br />
========================================================================<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Here are the links of extra things I recommend, as described above:</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Nice charger - Thunder AC680, $55 with shipping: <a href="http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html" target="_blank">http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904" target="_blank">LiPo-safe (fireproof) charge sack, ~$3</a>, or this <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4134&aff=281904" target="_blank">smaller one, ~$2</a>. These are always a good idea to use when charging. Place all your charge harnesses and batteries into this bag while charging.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10621&aff=281904" target="_blank">Pico Parallel harness</a>, $2 each (each harness does up to 6 batteries, so get 3 or 4 of these harnesses)</li>
<li><strike><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14852&aff=281904" target="_blank">JST Parallel harness</a>, $5</strike> (DEAD LINK, see replacement links below) this is necessary in order to plug in to your charger your 3 or 4 (or more....up to 6 max with this harness) Pico parallel harnesses above. Assuming you had 4 pico parallel harnesses above and one of these JST parallel adapters, you could charge 6x4 = 24 of these micro LiPo batteries all at once! </li>
<ol>
<li>UPDATE: new link: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=jst+parallel&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1" target="_blank">eBay search for "jst parallel"</a>; ex: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Parallel-JST-Female-to-1-JST-Male-Lipo-Charger-Plug-for-120SR-B6-Blade-120-/201044367130" target="_blank">here's one for $1.81 with free shipping</a> [great deal]; or: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=banana+jst+parallel&rt=nc&LH_BIN=1" target="_blank">eBay search for "banana jst parallel"</a>, ~$6~$10)</li>
<li>OR you can make your own charge harness using something like <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9683&aff=281904" target="_blank">this</a> (Male JST Battery Pigtail 12cm Length (10pcs/bag)) and <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9634&aff=281904" target="_blank">this</a> (Banana Plugs (non-gold) (10pairs/set)), in order to plug multiple Pico Parallel harnesses above in parallel with each other and then into your charger.</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9727&aff=281904" target="_blank">Pico plug extensions</a>, $2.50 - get a pack of these to use as plugs for modifying your two existing batteries, and the heli. Cutting an extension in half allows you to use it as a plug. Solder the female plug (I am describing the gender of the <i>plastic</i> parts, not the metal pins) onto your heli, and a male plug onto each of the 2 batteries that the FP100 came with).</li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11893&aff=281904" target="_blank">Turnigy nano-tech 160mAh 1S 25~40C LiPo Pack</a>, <$1.50 each - get as many of these as you want. I recommend 6 or more for non-stop flying!</li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9374&aff=281904" target="_blank">Super sticky velcro</a>, $2.50/meter for a 3" wide roll - nope, not all velcro is created equally. This stuff is better and has a stickier, more reliable adhesive backing than <i>anything</i> I have ever used before. It is required to velcro your new batteries above onto your slightly modified heli.</li>
<li>Make yourself a good little <b>battery voltage checker</b>. Most battery checkers are powered from the battery whose voltage they are measuring, but they don't function well (if at all) on a single-cell LiPo battery. Therefore, you'll need external power for your battery checker. For 1S LiPos I just use this cheap <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html" target="_blank">7 Function Digital Multimeter from Harbor Freight Tools</a> (shown below). It is listed as $5.29 on their website, but I got it for free using a coupon, and I've seen it discounted many many times for ~$3. It works surprisingly well for such a cheap device, and I've compared it against a nicer digital multimeter when measuring a variety of DC voltages (V), as well as resistances (Ohms) and diodes (forward Voltage drop), and I've found it to be much more accurate than I would have thought. The test lead receptacles take 4mm banana plugs/bullet connectors, so you can plug your battery into a Pico Parallel harness, then plug that into the JST Parallel harness, and plug that into the multimeter, to easily test your 1S LiPo voltage. <b><span style="color: blue;">Remember, for LiPo batteries, 3.0V/cell is empty, 3.7V/cell is ~20% full, and 4.2V/cell is 100% full.</span></b> </li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizKYozxzcsJzBRLWsh9Yp9S71yo-wV21XeInoJd99GjyzK_XH01LkHgDPxCfT49w8NE-HxG5uYsQRI-Z1CLsju0Zsy5I_47jTgVss3JzyKWLQ4XKXyUjDga5M4X6ReWidDWPy7uXLpvjFz/s1600/IMG_0102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizKYozxzcsJzBRLWsh9Yp9S71yo-wV21XeInoJd99GjyzK_XH01LkHgDPxCfT49w8NE-HxG5uYsQRI-Z1CLsju0Zsy5I_47jTgVss3JzyKWLQ4XKXyUjDga5M4X6ReWidDWPy7uXLpvjFz/s640/IMG_0102.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Here is just <i>one </i>of the many diagrams from this article:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmhYQOKmMiPINZ61xfgip7GnhU_UXRozImIl0JhTYz-eDbB9DsbmHyHE5tu_4uInkKIEYZNy1aC_zfncOI19pPO3XO7CZllZHZGPbhRyOvYThpSpsDWqqraKDklgkW9KL9lwHYaMNTIK14/s1600/Mastering+the+landing+approach.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmhYQOKmMiPINZ61xfgip7GnhU_UXRozImIl0JhTYz-eDbB9DsbmHyHE5tu_4uInkKIEYZNy1aC_zfncOI19pPO3XO7CZllZHZGPbhRyOvYThpSpsDWqqraKDklgkW9KL9lwHYaMNTIK14/s640/Mastering+the+landing+approach.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<a href="http://www.modelaviation.com/landingapproach" target="_blank">http://www.modelaviation.com/landingapproach</a><br />
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Updated: 14 July 2013. <br />
<i>Note: most recent additions are at the <u>top</u> of this article.</i><br />
<br />
I suppose I watch my fair share of videos that I find amazing or inspiring. I am going to begin to save some of them. I will save them at this post, so check back from time to time.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2itwFJCgFQ" target="_blank">Raffaello D'Andrea - The Astounding Athletic Power of Quadcopters</a> (added 14 July 2013) - this has got to be one of the most impressive and fascinating things I've ever seen! Click the link above to watch the video.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-LXOKFRMMGNcD2Nh657-uvlxgCKC3m6MzKh5l1lA4ucgyxNzf40DIIW8gQcuhd2e9p5RPMNzMqJPXmcfH-DsHx7Xz2nHYuL5i0J2gf89N864gLSFISg1Xt05gTGFDbtT0DIL6LUsHz9g4/s1600/Raffaello+D'Andrea+-+The+Astounding+Athletic+Power+of+Quadcopters.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-LXOKFRMMGNcD2Nh657-uvlxgCKC3m6MzKh5l1lA4ucgyxNzf40DIIW8gQcuhd2e9p5RPMNzMqJPXmcfH-DsHx7Xz2nHYuL5i0J2gf89N864gLSFISg1Xt05gTGFDbtT0DIL6LUsHz9g4/s400/Raffaello+D'Andrea+-+The+Astounding+Athletic+Power+of+Quadcopters.PNG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><br /></li>
</ul>
<li><a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/fpv-to-space-and-back" target="_blank">FPV (First-Person View) to Space and Back</a> (<--main link here)</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_edlpNjTeIcokV9kD-fvvBGXpaSUk5w5wOEgASkxysWWO9WpW68LkLO-rII60hh4AH55f27VcrWgC0HgAlSbu9zoL4Pbj9A1DFfV6ChlyDiuMOnB20KPpMTQT46s-ph7oTPs64CiUfN6/s1600/earth+shot+-+FPV+to+Space+and+Back.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_edlpNjTeIcokV9kD-fvvBGXpaSUk5w5wOEgASkxysWWO9WpW68LkLO-rII60hh4AH55f27VcrWgC0HgAlSbu9zoL4Pbj9A1DFfV6ChlyDiuMOnB20KPpMTQT46s-ph7oTPs64CiUfN6/s640/earth+shot+-+FPV+to+Space+and+Back.PNG" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>David, of <a href="http://rcexplorer.se/" target="_blank">RCExplorer.se</a>, is always abounding in fascinating activities and work. A remarkable<a name='more'></a> do-it-yourselfer and motivated <a href="http://rcexplorer.se/about-me/" target="_blank">electrical engineering/technician type</a>, he is an incredible person to follow, and I have been loosely following his posts and work for a couple years now. One of his more recent endeavors (or successes, I should say, as this took him ~2 yrs I believe) is his First-Person-camera-piloted trip 1/3 of the way to space! He used a weather balloon to lift a Multiplex Funjet ~30km up (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outer_space" target="_blank">actual definition of "space" is usually considered more like 100km</a>) then he cut the rope using a hot resistor circuit designed to melt through it, thereby releasing the plane, which he manually glided down and then hand-recovered by using its GPS coordinates. This is an INCREDIBLE FEAT, and NO EASY ENGINEERING CHALLENGE! Make sure to check out the video! </li>
<li>Other related links: </li>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://rcexplorer.se/projects/2013/03/fpv-to-space-and-back/" target="_blank">http://rcexplorer.se/projects/2013/03/fpv-to-space-and-back/</a> - he above article on his personal website.</li>
<li><div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQMi6Jk38g0" target="_blank">YouTube - Flite Test : FPV Space Glider - Viewer Response</a></div>
</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWQiaYLgIaI" target="_blank">Quad Tilt-Rotor VTOL Official Music Video</a> - this is what I like to see! - someone who is a Thinker *and* a <u>Doer</u>! They are really having fun with RC, and I'm sure learning a *ton* in the process! Want to see the person behind this? <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=yfJWWzg5LeM#t=4s" target="_blank">It's this guy, right here. Peter Sripol, the designer, builder, and pilot</a>. Nice job Peter! I'm very impressed.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXh23onPKRYth_i3Fet5At4C5EEyamgzlIdTCfPuIk3FDYQqU3O7XqBfQojpIco3xQQx5OpeaMCaWjRK91GTJBgrbARl6iee2P5iuP6KPyZOfI2FeCuzOfIXwHshHRfVdK6eG2tDPYXwUe/s1600/Quad+tiltrotor+official+music+video.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXh23onPKRYth_i3Fet5At4C5EEyamgzlIdTCfPuIk3FDYQqU3O7XqBfQojpIco3xQQx5OpeaMCaWjRK91GTJBgrbARl6iee2P5iuP6KPyZOfI2FeCuzOfIXwHshHRfVdK6eG2tDPYXwUe/s640/Quad+tiltrotor+official+music+video.PNG" height="356" width="640" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><br /></li>
</ul>
<li><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=kOOJ86VR_G0" target="_blank">Airship Endurance VTOL (Vertical Takeoff and Landing)</a>. Pretty neat little vehicle. A tricopter with single tilt-rotor. </li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVA5qgVR0qM3OEzsJjUwU6DJZ6b7HuIGYvCaS776kxKQIgtSR0Qw3uwt5rny15Qe3MVu9wL1TrXvxzt6BXd7MDvLhGBD7HyprYzaqqnLzwHzp0NUprV1hmgzxhEjUeDGAglGe1kwO1lzqN/s1600/Airship+VTOL.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVA5qgVR0qM3OEzsJjUwU6DJZ6b7HuIGYvCaS776kxKQIgtSR0Qw3uwt5rny15Qe3MVu9wL1TrXvxzt6BXd7MDvLhGBD7HyprYzaqqnLzwHzp0NUprV1hmgzxhEjUeDGAglGe1kwO1lzqN/s320/Airship+VTOL.PNG" height="229" width="320" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><br /></li>
</ul>
<li><a href="http://vimeo.com/56534375" target="_blank">Wing Suit Jumpers - including high-speed mountain passes, and formation flying</a></li>
<ul>
<li>More info</li>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wingsuit_flying" target="_blank">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wingsuit_flying</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.phoenix-fly.com/" target="_blank">http://www.phoenix-fly.com/</a></li>
</ul>
<li>What do you think their maximum glide ratio (L/D) is? I'm thinking 3:1 ~ 5:1.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjTpbvN3YSbsOaLOc6jUvRtSe4o53cLAmcia3J0EOhT2idDmS20V-G-zJCA_Ot4hNkDbPyObZTmy1jRP-lPOJfnQFcI_qEVhGPmUHjhrfkiazJRXWXmcZ_s2dDH8qhc-bdmObPWV-_Y_f/s1600/wing+suit+jumpers.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjTpbvN3YSbsOaLOc6jUvRtSe4o53cLAmcia3J0EOhT2idDmS20V-G-zJCA_Ot4hNkDbPyObZTmy1jRP-lPOJfnQFcI_qEVhGPmUHjhrfkiazJRXWXmcZ_s2dDH8qhc-bdmObPWV-_Y_f/s640/wing+suit+jumpers.PNG" height="275" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEFhEPDtizc" target="_blank">Operation Rocket - Smarter Every Day 39</a> - Destin takes Estes model rockets to a school in Gambia, and kids and teachers alike see, experience, and are inspired by model rocketry for the first time in their lives! I really admire Destin. He does a lot of really great things.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxGkKVbgTKqmDshSSf46375uxjKjpbOvmeSiXE-fb9jyQiYr3hvUSJzgl3EHSnICPrWT5EWl_DEfbctdEON1jwWpfmAzWtSrlX-Cy0r6zblis-Y_6H8VQ2ERBPOyaGu80dHj8yfnx47Vr/s1600/Destin+-+Operation+Rocket.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWxGkKVbgTKqmDshSSf46375uxjKjpbOvmeSiXE-fb9jyQiYr3hvUSJzgl3EHSnICPrWT5EWl_DEfbctdEON1jwWpfmAzWtSrlX-Cy0r6zblis-Y_6H8VQ2ERBPOyaGu80dHj8yfnx47Vr/s640/Destin+-+Operation+Rocket.PNG" height="354" width="640" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><br /></li>
</ul>
</ul>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-61852479344768254822013-03-01T19:40:00.003-08:002015-02-21T14:44:33.270-08:00Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor & ONE Power Pod!<b>Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor & ONE Power Pod!</b><br />
<br />
By: Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 1 March 2013<br />
Last Updated: 21 Feb. 2015<br />
-added "Reinforcement" section below - 20 Feb. 2015<br />
-added the entire "Which Foam to Buy" section, incl notes on Dollar Tree foamboard & depron - 8 Feb. 2015<br />
-added a link to my new free-flight Stingray glider I mention below - 16 July 2013<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>If you have any questions or comments while reading this, or any other article, please post it in the </i><u style="font-style: italic;">comments</u><i> section below the article. Thanks!</i><br />
<u><br /></u><u>Related Articles:</u><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijVvUeOYsB5sITlWuW_n8IWdMwL7Zq2E8POLPf3ZduyFmUighp4D8S38eOYtOCXIVIxseB633SWQkFVR9fv7nWbCJTQC8M1uklIq2NcHecgQ3J6lw3VzvXL6fjeABCwuSJHtaB-pvvUUOD/s1600/IMG_0021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijVvUeOYsB5sITlWuW_n8IWdMwL7Zq2E8POLPf3ZduyFmUighp4D8S38eOYtOCXIVIxseB633SWQkFVR9fv7nWbCJTQC8M1uklIq2NcHecgQ3J6lw3VzvXL6fjeABCwuSJHtaB-pvvUUOD/s200/IMG_0021.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-power-of-arduino.html" target="_blank">The Power of Arduino</a> - learn to control the physical world around you, including your RC vehicles, using computer programming</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/this-is-what-my-nutball-can-do.html" target="_blank">This is What My NutBall Can Do!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html" target="_blank">Buying Parts for the FliteTest NutBall Swappable - All at Once</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-flitetest-nutball-swappable.html" target="_blank">Building the FliteTest NutBall Swappable</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Setting up the Computer Data-Logging Software for Your Thunder AC680 (or AC6) Charger</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
So, over a year ago now I discovered the Flite Test <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/nutball-scratch-build" target="_blank">NutBall</a> and <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/DeltaScratchBuild" target="_blank">Delta Wing</a> (both wings, separated from the power pod, are shown in the picture above and to the right). These planes are unique in that FliteTest came up with the <u>ingenious idea</u> to use a <i>single motor, speed controller, and receiver combination in order to power multiple airplanes! </i>This is a fantastic solution, as it allows someone to get into this hobby VERY economically, and all of the planes are built using <a href="http://www.dollartree.com/school-office-supplies/Desk-Supplies/Paper-Stationery/Readi-Board-Foam-Boards/291c434c427p16450/index.pro?method=search" target="_blank">Dollar Tree foamboard (ADAMS Readi-board)</a>, shish kabob (bamboo) skewers, hot glue, popsicle sticks, and packing tape!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.elasmodiver.com/atlantic_stingray.htm" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-Cezw_xkFAD4JvZNIGtlJ8p_yUx76Qxn-VrOqymfi5l45NP7iC2h1Jm7FUevuXUDHf77EPGCigxMmO7xc3DyStp326VIwGSqYifxD24u1U7yNOZpY9iQysA059-wSMjKCfNx6kwbe5UnD/s200/Stingray.PNG" height="131" title="" width="200" /></a>As of today, I have built and flown both the NutBall and the Delta Wing, and love them both. <span style="color: blue;">I have even prototyped and tested, for my local Boy Scout troop working on the <a href="http://meritbadge.org/wiki/index.php/Aviation" target="_blank">Aviation merit badge</a>, a $5 free-flight glider based on the NutBall, which is capable of being bungee-launched (via a home-made $25~$35 launcher) to altitudes up to 250 feet, and flying <u>several hundred yards</u> distance in a single flight! My wife named it the Stingray (see photo of a stingray to the right), since the glider resembles a stingray flying backwards. I would like to post the plans and video of the Stingray glider and bungee launcher when I get the chance, so other Boy Scout troops and do-it-yourselfers can make one too (<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/07/staples-stingray-glider-sneak-peak.html" target="_blank">for a sneak peak of the glider, see my new post here</a>).</span> As for the FliteTest airplanes I've built, the NutBall is especially a blast to fly for an advanced
pilot, yet can be gentle <br />
<a name='more'></a>enough (with limited control surface throws
[movement]) to be a great beginner airplane--though the <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Bixler and Hawk Sky</a> are still much better! <span style="color: blue;">I have also designed and tested what I call a "training fin" for the NutBall, which can easily be velcroed onto the top of the plane in order to make it self-right (roll level automatically) whenever it is banked. This is really useful for a beginner as well. (More to come on this; I need to write a post on it still too).</span><br />
<br />
Well, after knowing about only a couple FliteTest "swappable" series airplanes, on 1 March 2013, I discovered sooooooo much more! I can't believe I've been so out of the loop on what FliteTest has been up to! For those of you unaware, they are now making absolutely fantastic-flying airplanes, using the SAME NutBall swappable power pod design, with full airfoils and very good looks. Here's the list I've just compiled from them. If you haven't seen all of these already, it's definitely worth your time to check them out!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-swappable-power-pod-kit" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD2O7sMhxOcQsLca4GzR05mBVGvG-9YsvC3yP1JvUFVeQuRgJkUXwKHk0Vmkm7gfNOI0cZQOVdQGS7mxqvtZWXkNPBQOyXOLCGLBw6OL-G0HiZD7LFJGcc6UMA7-Bt40tZleaBljYlY7VH/s320/FT+Power+Pod.PNG" height="203" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li>First off, the swappable FT (Flite Test) <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-swappable-power-pod-kit" target="_blank">Power Pod</a> (pictured above), which is the core of all of these designs:</li>
<ul>
<li>Here is the <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/swappable-fuselage-speed-build-kit" target="_blank">parts list that FliteTest recommends</a>. It is a relatively low-power setup, optimized for the beginner, with good low-speed thrust and not too high top speed. </li>
<li>Here is the <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html" target="_blank">parts list that I recommend</a>. It is a relatively high-power setup, optimized for the beginner to advanced pilot and everything in between, with the <i>option</i> of higher thrust and higher speed if you want it (by using a 3S LiPo vs. 2S LiPo). For a more gentle, <i>beginner</i> type feel, use the slow fly (SF) 8x3.8 props and the 2S LiPo batteries. You might even try the 7x5E prop with the 2S batteries, for more gentle flight. For higher-speed flight with the 2S batteries use an <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9846&aff=281904" target="_blank">SF 9x6 prop</a>. For a much more powerful system with a good mix of thrust and speed, use the power system in my recommended parts list above, with the 3S 1300mAh LiPo battery and APC-style 7x5E* prop. With this setup, the <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-flitetest-nutball-swappable.html" target="_blank">24" NutBall version I prefer</a> is capable of <b>accelerating vertically, </b>even using a battery as large as a 3S 2200mAh LiPo (though it can just <i>barely</i> accelerate vertically with the extra weight of this battery). <i>*Caution: do NOT use props larger than the APC-style 7x5E, with a 3S battery, on the recommended motor in my list, as it will pull too much current and burn up the motor. Also, do not run full throttle for long periods of time (longer than ~30 seconds) with a 3S LiPo and 7x5E prop, for the same reason.</i></li>
</ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">Here are the <b>Master Links for all of FliteTest's amazing work in their swappable series airplanes</b> (these links were obtained from the Power Pod link above)!</span></li>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://flitetest.com/authors/FliteTest#/textSearch=FTScratchBuild" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">FTScratchBuild - 0 - ALL The Flite Test Scratch Build Articles</span></a></li>
<li><a href="http://flitetest.com/authors/FliteTest#/textSearch=FTScratchBuild-Beginner" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">FTScratchBuild - 1 - Beginner Series</span></a></li>
<li><a href="http://flitetest.com/authors/FliteTest#/textSearch=FTScratchBuild-Intermediate" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">FTScratchBuild - 2 - Intermediate Series</span></a></li>
<li><a href="http://flitetest.com/authors/FliteTest#/textSearch=FTScratchBuild-Advanced" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">FTScratchBuild - 3 - Advanced Series</span></a></li>
</ul>
<li>Some of their "Swappable"-series planes, which use the power pod design above, which REALLY IMPRESS ME, include the following:</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXSxKWcMMYAUi1Q-Bo01VuDMyTWWhIglJfS3L-E8-o4dCdT241BpZ6NT9nvKc_swGB5tR-MBeONDbL8Y8YHU9sECQ-7q4AUIG-OFJNW0FIqyCH8G97I7tf4i3F6PE7spbE4pZq5zbiDfZ/s1600/ft-3d-11-jpg_1361847444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAXSxKWcMMYAUi1Q-Bo01VuDMyTWWhIglJfS3L-E8-o4dCdT241BpZ6NT9nvKc_swGB5tR-MBeONDbL8Y8YHU9sECQ-7q4AUIG-OFJNW0FIqyCH8G97I7tf4i3F6PE7spbE4pZq5zbiDfZ/s640/ft-3d-11-jpg_1361847444.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<ul><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO9DhFoG8yICNTGRcThZrj4wDpTZbbLdTNnZlYOy5RFEWAFI_21tRORpwNHZ6fQ_4kyqh8WhRwcmzU8jggKi50ioHEkheWx4tHGBBuXMTAUhOBxxyM6OCtIlUMa0q1xIitbSHSnD2HkXIu/s1600/attachment_1359094506540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO9DhFoG8yICNTGRcThZrj4wDpTZbbLdTNnZlYOy5RFEWAFI_21tRORpwNHZ6fQ_4kyqh8WhRwcmzU8jggKi50ioHEkheWx4tHGBBuXMTAUhOBxxyM6OCtIlUMa0q1xIitbSHSnD2HkXIu/s320/attachment_1359094506540.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a>
<li>1) <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-3d-scratch-build" target="_blank">FT 3D scratch build</a> (shown above) - uses the swappable power pod. I bet just looking at it, you didn't even realize it used the power pod! See the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JBKC5i8MHIk#t=849s" target="_blank">power pod insertion here</a> (at 14:09 in the video). See it <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-3d" target="_blank">in flight here</a>.</li>
<li>2) <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/FT_Bloody_Wonder_Scratch_Build" target="_blank">FT Bloody Wonder scratch build</a> (shown to the right) - uses the swappable power pod. See it <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/Vertical_Drag_Race_Combat" target="_blank">in flight here</a>. </li>
<li>3) <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/FT_Old_Fogey_Scratch_Build" target="_blank">FT Old Fogey Scratch Build</a> - uses the swappable power pod.</li>
<li>4) <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/Baby_Blender_Scratch_Build" target="_blank">FT Baby Blender (biplane) Scratch Build</a> - uses the swappable power pod.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
So, now that I have discovered a whole host of other airplanes by Flite Test which can use my one, single, economical, swappable power pod, and that have fully-formed 3D airfoils and are very nice looking airplanes, I certainly am going to begin building these things and expanding my collection of RC airplanes to fly, and I highly recommend you do too!<br />
<br />
<b>Other Scratch Builds to look at or do:</b><br />
So, clearly I favor the FliteTest scratch built airplanes above with the swappable power pod, but hundreds of other scratch built airplanes and plans are available online as well. With a little imagination, and some building ingenuity, you could easily make many, if not all, of these other scratch-build airplanes use your Flite Test swappable Power Pod too!<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/synapse-foamboard-flying-wing" target="_blank">EA (Experimental Airlines) SYNAPSE Foamboard Flying Wing</a> - this is another airplane built from Dollar Tree foamboard. This plane looks like an incredible FPV ("First Person View" -- using a camera and video screen to fly your plane as if you were inside of it) flying platform. With the right setup, I think this plane could be made to fly over 1 hr. at a cruising speed of 35mph or so. With the right equipment, I think you could easily do flights 10 miles there and back using high quality FPV gear and amateur UAV (Unmanned Aerial Vehicle) fail-safes such as "Return to Home." Anyway, even as a standard RC airplane, this plane really looks like a LOT of fun!</li>
<li>RCPowers (<a href="http://rcpowers.com/" target="_blank">http://rcpowers.com/</a>)</li>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<ul>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQgZrzvQB62Deg9yF3McmVJoaAbpQMu_WJoesRQn_E7BGo9XfR0tiwSBA2lrOmnrXchhMSzLH69PRCXe1wN74ZSZwEVk9LDPVYRZpm1ny7OIVviGCKocstISmRDQx6Ze50tDI6UIDaI_d/s1600/RCPowersExtra300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>
<li><a href="http://www.rcpowers.com/community/threads/f-35-easybuild-v2-free.14011/" target="_blank">FREE RCPowers F-35 EasyBuild V2</a> (he normally charges ~$13 for plans like this). Using 6 HXT900 9g servos (<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=22927&aff=281904" target="_blank">from USA warehouse</a>/<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904" target="_blank">from International warehouse</a>) on this plane and a nice computer radio could make this plane VERY interesting and fun to set up and fly! You would use 1 servo for each aileron, 1 servo for each rudder, and 1 servo for each side of the elevator, then special computer radio mixes would make the plane very versatile and maneuverable.</li>
<li><a href="http://goo.gl/sQCe0J" target="_blank">FREE RCPowers Extra 300S</a> --> click File --> Download to save the files. Search on YouTube for "rcpowers extra 300" to find dozens of videos, including 3rd-party build videos.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQgZrzvQB62Deg9yF3McmVJoaAbpQMu_WJoesRQn_E7BGo9XfR0tiwSBA2lrOmnrXchhMSzLH69PRCXe1wN74ZSZwEVk9LDPVYRZpm1ny7OIVviGCKocstISmRDQx6Ze50tDI6UIDaI_d/s1600/RCPowersExtra300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieQgZrzvQB62Deg9yF3McmVJoaAbpQMu_WJoesRQn_E7BGo9XfR0tiwSBA2lrOmnrXchhMSzLH69PRCXe1wN74ZSZwEVk9LDPVYRZpm1ny7OIVviGCKocstISmRDQx6Ze50tDI6UIDaI_d/s1600/RCPowersExtra300.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li></li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul>
</ul>
<li><a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=501856" target="_blank">Flying Sidewinder Missile</a>, from RCGroups.com -- download the PDF plans in the 1st post</li>
<li><a href="http://www.parkjets.com/" target="_blank">www.parkjets.com</a> - click "Free Plans" at the top of the screen in order to search through their 100's of user-provided, FREE PDF plans! - again, after building a couple of the Flite Test "swappable" airplanes above, using your ingenuity you could easily adapt many of these planes to use your same swappable power pod!</li>
</ul>
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Which foam to buy?</span></b><br />
<ol>
<li><b><span style="color: red;">Dollar Tree foamboard (AKA Adams Readi-board)</span></b>: FliteTest makes all of their planes with Dollar Tree foamboard. It has a little white sticker on it that I believe says "Adams Readi-Board" (I don't have a sheet in-hand to double-check it). <a href="http://www.dollartree.com/Readi-Board-Foam-Boards/p16450/index.pro" target="_blank">Here is a link to it online</a>. It is a 3/16" thick, relatively low-density extruded polystyrene foam core with paper on each side. Each sheet is 20"x30" and costs only $1. The white foamboard seems to me to be stronger than black. This is the case with many other types of foam too.</li>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<ol>
<li><b>Notes about quality, strength, and weight: If you want to build with foamboard, I recommend you do NOT use foamboard from ANY other store---unless you want it to weigh as much as thin plywood.</b> The reason that the Dollar Tree brand is specifically the *only* good airplane foamboard (ie: craft foam with paper on it) that I know of in existence is because they special order their own low-density blend of it in bulk directly from the manufacturer. Since they are a $1 store, their blend of the foamboard is lower density than all other foamboards (and also has a lighter and thinner paper covering on it), and therefore it is considered "cheaper" and "lower quality" for school projects and crafts and things. <b>For RC airplanes, however, the low-density, cheap Dollar Tree foamboard is FAR BETTER, since it is so light. </b>Again, if you go to Target or Staples or Walmart or something, and build a plane out of their foamboard it may be much stronger but it will also feel like you just taped a bunch of rocks to your plane. <b><i>For very high-speed or very large planes you want to make out of foamboard, though, the extra <u>strength</u> of other, more expensive foamboards *may* be desirable and worth the extra weight. </i></b></li>
<li><b>Strength & Waterproofing</b>: <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1U8ag7-BFBuksxiySqGAXYHiGf07Bf6RjVC5t_QJuBN9PllU6E_7g_uUnmtr8zCKhESIp2WHip5OMeEko1RMiif4BaUGnjU5BAshaW5wWYPAF6fkapalJ7YpzevTP23WJVQJOM9Ne-Py3/s1600/FliteTest+-+Minwax+your+plane.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1U8ag7-BFBuksxiySqGAXYHiGf07Bf6RjVC5t_QJuBN9PllU6E_7g_uUnmtr8zCKhESIp2WHip5OMeEko1RMiif4BaUGnjU5BAshaW5wWYPAF6fkapalJ7YpzevTP23WJVQJOM9Ne-Py3/s1600/FliteTest+-+Minwax+your+plane.PNG" height="129" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(<a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/minwax-on-your-plane" target="_blank">Source</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For most building applications, with some exceptions (ex: the inner sides of folds on an <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=karr67ZYho4" target="_blank">Armin wing</a>), do *not* peel the paper off of the Dollar Tree foamboard. The paper adds the bulk of the strength to the foamboard. Without it, the foam becomes weak. However, in high-humidity environments (ex: Ohio, Georgia, South Carolina, etc), expecially in the Summer, or in rain anywhere, the paper will get damaged and your plane could fall apart. To prevent this, put several (2 to 3) LIGHT coats of polyurethane on the plane, giving adequate time to dry between coats. Polyurethane is oil-based, so light coats will not damage the foamboard. However, if you use heavy coats, the paper will get saturated and mushy, and the hot-glue joints you have will become soft and loose. Ie: soaking your airplane in polyurethane is a BAD idea and will destroy the plane.</li>
<ol>
<li>Polyurethane example: <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-qt-Semi-Gloss-Fast-Drying-Polyurethane-63005/100137867" target="_blank">1-qt. Semi-Gloss Fast-Drying Polyurethane, ~$11 at Home Depot</a></li>
<li>Here is a FliteTest article on the topic: "<a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/minwax-on-your-plane" target="_blank">Minwax on Your Plane</a>"</li>
</ol>
<li><b>Reinforcement:</b> You can strengthen the foamboard with <u>packing tape</u>, <u>strapping tape</u> (has fiberglass strands in it), <u>bamboo skewers</u> (shish kabob skewers) from the grocery store, and <u>carbon fiber</u> rods. I usually just use the first three, as carbon fiber adds quite a bit more cost. Without electronics, an entire airplane built from Dollar Tree foamboard can cost me as little as $5 or so--and these aren't weak little planes, some of my Dollar Tree foamboard planes fly 70mph or more, and could go faster if they had bigger power plants!</li>
<ol>
</ol>
</ol>
<li><b><span style="color: red;">Depron</span></b>. Depron is a high-quality and very strong extruded polystyrene foam which does *not* have any paper on it. Being made strong without having paper on it is a good thing because it means that glue bonds will be stronger (since you don't have the possibility of just gluing to the paper, which could peel off under load), and since it does not require any special waterproofing. <b>It is far stronger and more durable than Dollar Tree foamboard, but also much more expensive. </b>It costs ~$10/sheet for a 6mm [~1/4"] thick x 27.5" x 39" sheet and can be purchased at many local hobby shops or online. It is the foam of choice used by many scratch-builders.</li>
<ol>
<li>My favorite place to purchase it online is Grayson Hobby</li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1AKZ9b3" target="_blank">Grayson Hobby depron foam available</a></li>
<li>I prefer the <a href="http://bit.ly/1A388EF" target="_blank">6mm 1/4 Case White Depron 27.5" x 39" - 5 sheets, for ~$40 + shipping</a>.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<li>Dollar Tree foamboard & Depron notes:</li>
<ol>
<li>Both are made of extruded polystyrene (a high-density version of the same material Styrofoam is made of), so both are easily glued with hot glue.</li>
<li>However, both foams will also be dissolved by the solvents in spray paints and standard superglues (ie: CA adhesive). Test a scratch piece of the foam before you start gluing or spraying anything on your foam airplane. </li>
</ol>
</ol>
<br />
PLEASE LEAVE QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS BELOW.<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<b>Questions and Answers:</b><br />
<br />
Q: Does a swappable with only elevon control (FT Delta) require
a special transmitter that mixes the elevator & aileron inputs?<br />
A: Yes, a special mixing capability is required that mixes the
elevator and aileron inputs, but no it does not always have to be a special
transmitter. Let me explain: usually a special transmitter is used, with
built-in mixing capabilities, such as a computerized one like <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTTM1&P=ML" style="text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">this</a> or <u><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=28494&aff=281904" target="_blank">this</a></u>, or a non-computerized one that has a built-in mixing function switch like <u><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16239&aff=281904" target="_blank">this one</a></u>.
However, the cool thing about today's fancy electronics is that even with a
standard radio with NO built-in mixing functions, you can use an *external*
mixer like <u><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=6321&aff=281904" target="_blank">this</a></u> or <u><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4170&aff=281904" target="_blank">this</a></u>.
The built-in mixers will always be a little bit smoother, but the external
mixers are super economical and work just fine for someone with a basic radio.<br />
<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-50260042031385568702013-02-23T21:23:00.002-08:002014-01-05T20:19:41.899-08:00Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-Logging Software<b><span style="font-size: large;">Setting Up The Computer Data-Logging Software for Your Thunder AC680 (or AC6) Charger</span></b><br />
~By Gabriel Staples, 24 Feb. 2013.<br />
Updated: 3 Jan. 2014<br />
-added a note to check out a comment below this post if you are using Windows 8<br />
-link added for a USB extension cable.<br />
<br />
<b>Related Articles:</b><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
</ul>
<b>Brief Charger Description & Review:</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
Since I recommend so often to beginners in RC that they purchase the <a href="http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680 charger</a>, I thought I better at least help them learn how to setup the computer software for it, which can be a little bit tricky, even for the computer-literate person. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR_dD7jCkGDjRaaMjxOVz7kZ0PNr611BEv553d4lKwIYn9a9hCDtjT1Ky3hJx_ULo5OBdRqg28uQ666E79WwEPon0dA7xzPouUAlBiD3GIH6mSkw9K-SozWdhSe2TfazB4BjvT2RN9GiyR/s1600/Thunder+AC680+Charger.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR_dD7jCkGDjRaaMjxOVz7kZ0PNr611BEv553d4lKwIYn9a9hCDtjT1Ky3hJx_ULo5OBdRqg28uQ666E79WwEPon0dA7xzPouUAlBiD3GIH6mSkw9K-SozWdhSe2TfazB4BjvT2RN9GiyR/s400/Thunder+AC680+Charger.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
First off, I'd just like to say that I love this charger, and it makes an *excellent* starter charger for someone looking to get a fully functional, computerized, smart charger capable of charging, discharging, cycling, and balancing. This charger can handle LiPo/LiFe/Li-Ion, NiMH/NiCad, and Pb battery chemistries. To the layperson, this means that with the right connector, it can charge any rechargeable battery in your house, car, or workshop. That's pretty impressive. Also, by using it to discharge a battery, you can measure the capacity (mAh) in the battery to get an idea if the battery is any good, and whether or not the manufacturer of a cheap rechargeable battery (on ebay for instance) ripped you off. I've used a charger like this to charge and/or discharge (to check the capacity) of cell phone batteries, camera batteries, airsoft gun batteries, 18V cordless drill batteries, and dozens and dozens of various RC aircraft or radio transmitter batteries. Lastly, by using the charger's cycling abilities, I've been able to reduce or remove the "memory" effect of many of my old NiCad batteries, and I've even been able to bring back "dead" NiCad batteries, which were over 10 years old!, to at least a usable condition after years of sitting around unused.<br />
<br />
To top it all off, this charger is available for ~$55 <u>with shipping</u> from hobbypartz.com, which is a steal-of-a-deal. Many chargers of this quality sell for 3x this much, so I have got to say, I am extremely impressed. <br />
If you'd like to purchase this charger, you can find it at the "Thunder AC680" link above, or it is located at <br />
<a name='more'></a>several other sites which are linked in my "Beginner RC Airplane Setup" document above. Sadly, I am not getting any money for recommending this charger, and I did in fact purchase it with my <u>own money</u>, so I can honestly say this is a completely honest review and assessment. <br />
<br />
<b>Computer Data-logging Software Setup:</b><br />
<br />
So, one very nice feature of this charger is it's lovely Chinglish data-logging software. In all honesty, I really like being able to view the charge progress in the form of a plot during and after using the charger. Here are the steps to set up the computer software. This is based on my experience using Windows 7 (x86 [32-bit]). For Windows 8.1 (x64 [64-bit]) details look at the comment by "Joe Kimmes" found in the comments below this post.<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<ol>
<li><b>Download the Software</b>: Navigate to the <a href="http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html" target="_blank">AC680 sales page</a> and find any one of the “Software Setup (Download)” links. Save the file.</li>
<li><b>Install the Software</b>: 1<sup>st</sup>, install the
main software by running the file you just saved. After installing the
software, if you try to start the "Monitor" program immediately, it
will not work. This is because first you need to install the
"dotNetFx40" program. Do this by navigating to Start --> All
Programs --> Thunder --> motioner --> dotNetFx40. After installing this program you may open
the "Monitor" program under Start --> All Programs --> Thunder
--> motioner --> Monitor.</li>
<li><b>Set Your Charger to USB Mode</b>: See the Program Flow Chart on pg. 11 of the
manual. Navigate the menus to the “User
Set Program,” then to “Temp Cutoff USB Enable,” and enable the USB mode, rather
than using the temperature sensor cutoff value. </li>
<ol>
<li><b>Side note: you may also want to
calibrate your charger at this time</b>.
Follow instructions here: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hvR7dGAkEo" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hvR7dGAkEo</a>
<span style="font-family: Wingdings;">ß</span>note:
this calibration video is for the Turnigy Accucel-6 charger, but the Thunder AC680 has the EXACT
same firmware and calibration process, so use the same steps and procedures. As the video shows, to enter the calibration mode, press and hold the 2nd and 4th buttons (from the left), simultaneously, while plugging in the power cable to the charger. </li>
</ol>
<li><b>Plug in the special USB Cable adapter to the charger and plug in the USB cable to that adapter and to your computer. </b>(Note: I highly recommend that you <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GUU" target="_blank">buy a USB extension cable</a> in order for your USB cable to more easily reach from your computer to your charger). Wait for the Windows driver (if using Windows 7 or 8) to automatically
install. You should see some little icon
in the bottom right of the screen pop up to say the device is being detected
and the driver is being automatically installed. </li>
<li><b>Find out which COM port the USB port is associated with
on your computer</b>: Navigate to your
<u>Device Manager</u> by clicking the Start Menu and doing a search for “Device
Manager.” Click the "Device Manager" shortcut that the
search finds. You will see a window like the one below. Click the little arrow next to "Ports (COM & LPT)" to see the device called "Junsi USB to UART Bridge (COM8)." In my case, the device is using COM8. On your computer, it may be COM1, COM2, COM7, etc. Take note of which COM port it is using. <span id="goog_1846082247"></span><span id="goog_1846082248"></span></li>
<li><b>Now, open the "Monitor" program, if it isn't already open. </b> (Start --> All Programs --> Thunder --> motioner --> Monitor).</li>
<li><b>Connect to the charger</b> by <u style="font-style: italic;">typing in the COM port value into the "Serial Port" box</u>. You will see that this is a selectable drop-down menu, but it doesn't work unless you type it in. So, I would type "com8" into this box, for example. Next, click the "Connect" button.</li>
<li><b>Start the charger, and data-logging will automatically begin</b>. You may start <i>any</i> function, including Charge, Discharge, Balance, Store, etc. (Note: I recommend you always use the "Balance" charge function when charging LiPo batteries). The regular LiPo Charge function does not do a balance charge.</li>
</ol>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih3bn4e2cnrWL_0cd-AiLMwrWGJJ-g5MHJWmdqPWkkRkAMcL9IFj26htcJU5_kK-mdljLbbJQCvBo5DKyeA3Brdtr_ECfxKXmGiHhUInAKRG82K3ais2KcNRb6PYE-0Ryt5MPJO8CbgSQv/s1600/Device+Manager+Screenshot.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih3bn4e2cnrWL_0cd-AiLMwrWGJJ-g5MHJWmdqPWkkRkAMcL9IFj26htcJU5_kK-mdljLbbJQCvBo5DKyeA3Brdtr_ECfxKXmGiHhUInAKRG82K3ais2KcNRb6PYE-0Ryt5MPJO8CbgSQv/s640/Device+Manager+Screenshot.PNG" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
<br />
Here is a screenshot of the program, as it records a NiMh Charge process:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdt7w69FY_5vUrKfn40Tgc-rZDet5w2imINFV_kiUM5wHYm4AfOVEatrDkYjj4Nu_92K09541xUa0dtLwNtHTsBbiFc5giU451k27bKaY8fdrhkonr5JYy30bvVPH06rn6qbVNkso12a-7/s1600/Thunder+Charge+Monitor+Screenshot.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdt7w69FY_5vUrKfn40Tgc-rZDet5w2imINFV_kiUM5wHYm4AfOVEatrDkYjj4Nu_92K09541xUa0dtLwNtHTsBbiFc5giU451k27bKaY8fdrhkonr5JYy30bvVPH06rn6qbVNkso12a-7/s640/Thunder+Charge+Monitor+Screenshot.PNG" height="378" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Once the charger process (Charge, Discharge, or whatever) is completed, you may <b>export both the plot as a graphic (or picture), and the data as an Excel-readable spreadsheet</b>. <br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>To <b>export the plot</b> as a picture, first get it to properly scale by right-clicking the screen and selecting "Set Scale to Default." (Note: if you do this while the charger is running, it will quickly resize the screen as you commanded, then undo it an instant later, since the screen autosizes while the charger is running. The scales will not remain fixed until the charge operation is complete). Next, go to File --> Export, and save the image in the format you want. </li>
<li>To <b>export the Excel data</b>, click the "export" button in the row of buttons at the top of the main screen, and save the file where you wish. You may also view the tabulated Excel-style data during the charger operation by clicking the "Real time data" button at the top of the screen.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>That pretty much covers it!</b><br />
<br />
Here is a plot of a 3S 1300mAh LiPo Discharge, with discharge current ranging from ~0.7~0.9A (limited by the 10W discharge power of the charger):<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Va5-2wDkObEL4C2-10RsVD0AaFnEIbptxGhD80H7wev8TI2R8A2eqOru86VEFyCinDnrzM6Y1aauBryhZceKanf8-Sivz8_RHqKfarBC5d3RlFvuDwxKSguG5ynSTMD6kThW5v0wd2J_/s1600/20130216-1950hrs-1300mAh+3S+20C+(RTF+Bixler+v1.1+Battery)+LiPo+pack+discharge+(0.7~0.9A).png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Va5-2wDkObEL4C2-10RsVD0AaFnEIbptxGhD80H7wev8TI2R8A2eqOru86VEFyCinDnrzM6Y1aauBryhZceKanf8-Sivz8_RHqKfarBC5d3RlFvuDwxKSguG5ynSTMD6kThW5v0wd2J_/s640/20130216-1950hrs-1300mAh+3S+20C+(RTF+Bixler+v1.1+Battery)+LiPo+pack+discharge+(0.7~0.9A).png" height="217" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Here is a plot of the same 3S 1300mAh LiPo being Charged, at a charge rate of 0.8A (or 0.62C in this case): <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-ke8Xmy2SdHIPNriuGZQeaqP6mubc8pBHzBqTyMDI0YH8_Sd9K0x87c4cTKZurhMfIPnBLWQkENzcIA4PnV-pmENllxFn_WBwqGvFLM6rvfuJrnmtJUYgSm3it-xwnKxsk6MMAYIgDBQ/s1600/20130216-2143hrs-1300mAh+3S+20C+(RTF+Bixler+v1.1+Battery)+LiPo+pack+charge+(0.8A).png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-ke8Xmy2SdHIPNriuGZQeaqP6mubc8pBHzBqTyMDI0YH8_Sd9K0x87c4cTKZurhMfIPnBLWQkENzcIA4PnV-pmENllxFn_WBwqGvFLM6rvfuJrnmtJUYgSm3it-xwnKxsk6MMAYIgDBQ/s640/20130216-2143hrs-1300mAh+3S+20C+(RTF+Bixler+v1.1+Battery)+LiPo+pack+charge+(0.8A).png" height="216" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The charger easily could have charged at a much faster rate (up to 6A or 80W Charge Power, whichever is limiting), but I chose to charge at a slow rate of 0.62C (0.8A for this battery) in order to approximately match the charge current to the 0.7~0.9A discharge current, <u>which ultimately allows me to compare the charge and discharge curves, remove voltage hysteresis, and create an accurate plot of <i>Estimated Resting Voltage versus State of Charge (% Capacity Remaining)</i></u>. <br />
<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-91912639082187277012013-02-22T22:03:00.001-08:002014-03-02T20:39:47.063-08:00Heavy Duty Connectors and Large Gauge Wire, & XT60 Soldering ExperimentBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 22 Feb. 2013<br />
Last Updated: 2 March 2014<br />
-added links to full soldering tutorials<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Related Articles:</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Background:</b><br />
So, tonight I decided to do an experiment to see how large of wire could be used with my favorite connector, the <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904" target="_blank">genuine XT60, from HobbyKing</a>. Ultimately, I determined that a careful hand and hot iron (<a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=ML" target="_blank">60W recommended</a>, as my <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">"Beginner RC Airplane Setup" document explains here</a>) can easily handle wires at least up to 7 AWG, which is a very large diameter wire. In my experiment, I twisted two 12AWG wires together, to make a 7~8 AWG-equivalent wire, which I then soldered to an XT60 connector with no problem. A smaller diameter wire, such as a 10 AWG, can easily be soldered to an XT60 connector with this iron linked above (as this is the exact iron I used). However, as 10AWG wire is capable of carrying currents much greater than 60A, you may be interested in using the larger <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24707&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT90</a> connector, on which 10 AWG wire comes standard on a HobbyKing XT90 <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=25662&aff=281904" target="_blank">parallel harness</a> or <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=25661&aff=281904" target="_blank">serial harness</a>. <br />
<br />
<b>Various Large-Current, Large-Diameter-Wire Connector Descriptions, & Links:</b><br />
<span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT60</a>-style connectors are my favorite, hands down, for my personal use. The 60 means "60 Amps," so as long as your *continuous* current is 60A or less, use these connectors, with any wire up to about 7 Gauge or so (though 14AWG wire is large enough to do the trick). Anyway, for 60A or less continuous, or ~100A peak (<=30 sec), XT60's are the way to go. For 90A continuous, or ~140A peak, use <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24707&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT90's</a>. For 150A continuous (250A peak), use <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=33020&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT150's</a>. Also, as a side note, 10 AWG wire is designed to easily handle a high voltage 90A continuous current over short distances (you can verify using this <a href="http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html" target="_blank">online calculator here</a>, with values of 1% loss, 22.2V DC, 90A, and 0.3m cable length), but again, if your system pulls <60A continuous, feel free to use XT60's, even for wire such as 10 AWG or as large as 7AWG. </span><br />
<div id="yui_3_7_2_23_1361415511420_54" style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;">
</div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT60 Connectors</a></li>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10265&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT60 Parallel Cable</a> (comes with 16AWG wire)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10264&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT60 Series Cable</a> (comes with 14AWG wire)</li>
</ul>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24707&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT90 Connectors</a></li>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=25662&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT90 Parallel Cable</a> (comes with 10AWG wire)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=25661&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT90 Series Cable</a> (comes with 10AWG wire)</li>
</ul>
<li><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=33020&aff=281904" target="_blank">XT150 Connectors</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif; font-size: 16px;"><b>My Soldering Experiment on the XT60 Connector:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;">-My goal was to see if large gauge wire (10AWG or larger) could be soldered to the XT60 connector, in order to use this connector to replace other large, bulky, or cumbersome connectors on very large battery packs where you need less than 60A continuous current draw. <i> (Note: if you ever replace battery connectors, be <u>very careful</u> not to short out the battery leads by cutting off both wires on the battery connector at once. Rather, cut off and solder one wire at a time to a new connector).</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;"><b>-Results: I successfully soldered the equivalent of 7AWG wires onto an XT60 connector. </b> I did not try to solder wires any larger, as this was large enough for the purposes of my experiment.</span><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;">-<i>This entire experiment, including taking the photos, took me 20 minutes, and 30 seconds</i>. I timed it, from the time I cut the first wire to the time I finished heat shrinking the last piece of heat shrink covering. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif;">(Below) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'times new roman', 'new york', times, serif;">Since I didn't have any 10AWG wire (my largest wire I have is 12AWG), I first cut a piece of 12AWG high-strand count, very high-quality silver-coated, silicone-cased audio cable. You can see the gauge printed on the wire. </span><span style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif;"> </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7UQGRuUN3rIIcIHy9kYJ9b94epmmBKq4UwEiYMzoh6e86eNSptpOisQQrMXKrXjSM32u3xWuhxc4FxSj5tnzCQaHlhBxIKmGAuWdW9Ne47fWeD0YuZAaHdpit0CevCSui8UAKkvE8eia/s1600/IMG_0040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7UQGRuUN3rIIcIHy9kYJ9b94epmmBKq4UwEiYMzoh6e86eNSptpOisQQrMXKrXjSM32u3xWuhxc4FxSj5tnzCQaHlhBxIKmGAuWdW9Ne47fWeD0YuZAaHdpit0CevCSui8UAKkvE8eia/s640/IMG_0040.JPG" height="476" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgssUcv3AxxlxZLnMB3m0_WniCSHEWjY5UxAyROp2kUHuddhhRKtbEBPEcQ2PjtQsbmZxPlEefp-zemrw5jRDE6pr2_2hojkp6ngudJ9a9IJ7KlDzwD-JduiXVaGOSy_yWrgDqVkR7k5Wjx/s1600/IMG_0041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgssUcv3AxxlxZLnMB3m0_WniCSHEWjY5UxAyROp2kUHuddhhRKtbEBPEcQ2PjtQsbmZxPlEefp-zemrw5jRDE6pr2_2hojkp6ngudJ9a9IJ7KlDzwD-JduiXVaGOSy_yWrgDqVkR7k5Wjx/s320/IMG_0041.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">(Right) </span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;">Next, I stripped the covering off of *both* strands of high-quality 12AWG wire, and twisted them together to make one big strand of wire. I measured this large single strand, made up of two 12AWG wire strands twisted together, and found that its diameter was 3.13mm, or almost as large as an 8AWG wire (see <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge" target="_blank">here for a table of AWG wire sizes and diameters</a>; an 8AWG wire has a diameter of 3.264mm). </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif1Vj3e0zpO-35OBssrXNOf5Y5M5Viqyb8Yo05YxmEs3k6d0I8siUGWw8f75xmuxE62MJoBEosKzjWDriDSmVCuSPlbx2V1PF8aetYdyOIrbhoXg5F2mcOSWZxD2LL-HPnWzOCpv587kFt/s1600/IMG_0042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif1Vj3e0zpO-35OBssrXNOf5Y5M5Viqyb8Yo05YxmEs3k6d0I8siUGWw8f75xmuxE62MJoBEosKzjWDriDSmVCuSPlbx2V1PF8aetYdyOIrbhoXg5F2mcOSWZxD2LL-HPnWzOCpv587kFt/s400/IMG_0042.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
(Right)<br />
I then tinned the end of this wire, and the solder increased the thickness to 3.75mm, or ~7AWG equivalent.<br />
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(Below-Left)<br />
I then cut another wire, this time a low quality, low-strand-count copper audio cable, stripped the covering off of *both* strands of wire, twisted the two 12AWG strands together, and measured the diameter. Since this lower quality wire was slightly thicker, the combined strands measured 3.60mm diameter, or 7AWG equivalent.<br />
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(Below-Right)<br />
After tinning this wire, its diameter was 4.48mm, or nearly 5AWG equivalent. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlDFC7rd5SUBCtDPnJx0R4z6Fys7_NsjguOAdWDzBBeb4eHotq9FhihecH0m_S63gRyQK3_TNyEsDVJ7MbqiD5PKdhSL9_4NaLC1WQP9SrfTe7U5yQcJXUbd0ou5QSu9OWVOpyu8slAmXj/s1600/IMG_0043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_8TFwwnfJaulfWkFaoN5OHLyycVerfwL-lrsqngPFuD8IWmYR403PGLu8CgOglWUOsaN9XvlxCQMtLrwj-ALridIRDV38YV4HWPln0ENb3cpxLOLV95MEeTh-lzqD_lFr6Z_t-9l7qNDl/s1600/IMG_0044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_8TFwwnfJaulfWkFaoN5OHLyycVerfwL-lrsqngPFuD8IWmYR403PGLu8CgOglWUOsaN9XvlxCQMtLrwj-ALridIRDV38YV4HWPln0ENb3cpxLOLV95MEeTh-lzqD_lFr6Z_t-9l7qNDl/s400/IMG_0044.JPG" height="400" width="297" /></a><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlDFC7rd5SUBCtDPnJx0R4z6Fys7_NsjguOAdWDzBBeb4eHotq9FhihecH0m_S63gRyQK3_TNyEsDVJ7MbqiD5PKdhSL9_4NaLC1WQP9SrfTe7U5yQcJXUbd0ou5QSu9OWVOpyu8slAmXj/s400/IMG_0043.JPG" height="400" width="297" /></div>
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Next, I carefully tinned the two golden terminals on the XT60 connector, leaving an ample pool of solder in the recess of each terminal in order to wick into the tinned wires upon soldering, making the joining process easier. I then soldered the two sets of tinned wires to those terminals, one at a time. </div>
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The below three pictures show the high-strand-count wires (blue casing; 8AWG wire equivalent when untinned) and the low-strand-count wires (copper, with clear casing,; 7AWG wire equivalent when untinned), soldered to the XT60 connector. The 60W iron worked extremely well and easily tinned the large wires, and did this soldering job with minimal effort and only a few seconds of contact at a time on the wires or connector terminals. The solder joint was very solid, firm, and strong, and I would feel confident yanking on these wires all day long without them coming loose. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2QA0SztOZt1M7P5Q6l4zitaS0J59_tVKUc7vUXQ8jgtP5QeQU5bAO14ahWzVVDzpfJjzcIESmXwBYnZsG5npz6Tgf1NbA1H-fzcrELSYfXkVNjQig_lw3bO-1EWLSPxSSdatrVrBDk_ZR/s1600/IMG_0045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2QA0SztOZt1M7P5Q6l4zitaS0J59_tVKUc7vUXQ8jgtP5QeQU5bAO14ahWzVVDzpfJjzcIESmXwBYnZsG5npz6Tgf1NbA1H-fzcrELSYfXkVNjQig_lw3bO-1EWLSPxSSdatrVrBDk_ZR/s400/IMG_0045.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizAjKZGq4Hm4HzUOueqj7rC7AVYwbSn2RCMiX4jPF961IX27ZipePY3HE2Jy15d_mmA2YxmMpNYvnmLcSCh-t3UqapfxETf1LJ7ojtdn1hCl9kd2sJp_swZEy2241kmmyfvU-RsVtd9SFa/s1600/IMG_0046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizAjKZGq4Hm4HzUOueqj7rC7AVYwbSn2RCMiX4jPF961IX27ZipePY3HE2Jy15d_mmA2YxmMpNYvnmLcSCh-t3UqapfxETf1LJ7ojtdn1hCl9kd2sJp_swZEy2241kmmyfvU-RsVtd9SFa/s400/IMG_0046.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio_R3C48A-btuPYGuUEScXZDU6IjugC9ukaap-k4so9BmsWklPO4k8liL0SMp0TMgda2kNPtJejgarrUSYt8XQdLmDw1YBB6aOWz9bCV0tVI6O_zrkyxnAocg3Z7PbMDr4rALQnQqkUA9K/s1600/IMG_0047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio_R3C48A-btuPYGuUEScXZDU6IjugC9ukaap-k4so9BmsWklPO4k8liL0SMp0TMgda2kNPtJejgarrUSYt8XQdLmDw1YBB6aOWz9bCV0tVI6O_zrkyxnAocg3Z7PbMDr4rALQnQqkUA9K/s640/IMG_0047.JPG" height="640" width="476" /></a></div>
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Finally, I placed a piece of <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=3834&aff=281904" target="_blank">6mm black heat shrink tubing</a> over the two 12AWG negative wires, and a piece of <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10434&aff=281904" target="_blank">10mm red heat shrink tubing</a> over the two 12AWG positive wires. The positive wires required larger heat shrink tubing since the nicer blue silicone casing was thicker than the cheap plastic casing on the other wires. As a final touch, I used a small piece of <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10432&aff=281904" target="_blank">14mm black heat shrink tubing</a> over the edge of the XT60 connector itself. Voila! All done, no problems, 7AWG equivalent wire successfully soldered to an XT60 connector with no problems whatsoever. <b>NOTE: IF YOU TRY THIS WITH A 30W SOLDERING IRON, I THINK YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS.</b> You'll probably have a very difficult time getting good heat transfer, and will have to hold the heat on for a very long period of time, likely melting the nylon XT60 connector, and perhaps getting frustrated and angry. :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxqcIsA45iw25Y4UinuGRJ4Pz24wID9cxdSQDAo0e4I2x-hpUslNdRq8mGHP7ytsdGFbKJ4HJypHujxaEvh0nQctrRfqpYNbKcdYJ71TzJpPc1Lt1fM5iqhjTD8KDUBTF7P4f-SmvSp21m/s1600/IMG_0048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6mHsnA2Zcm-fr8SyNeuaFLt2haPjPLpNsfriGewf6BbjIqhZb4on4QwG67qLg_1Z7DWEYmEokunEU2kQADMAyTz7PwrT24HBopPanr35rJDDOt2fLh3iJiFoq30x_H5hqQ8VKViG6J2yK/s1600/IMG_0049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6mHsnA2Zcm-fr8SyNeuaFLt2haPjPLpNsfriGewf6BbjIqhZb4on4QwG67qLg_1Z7DWEYmEokunEU2kQADMAyTz7PwrT24HBopPanr35rJDDOt2fLh3iJiFoq30x_H5hqQ8VKViG6J2yK/s640/IMG_0049.JPG" height="640" width="476" /></a><br />
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Here is a final picture of all of my soldering equipment I used. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVhNlPSCrA2SIzsk9G0VBZdEIrIjdRR8Z2L7B5m5Liw8wwf6NkjggY9MdRhNXKU4o6wuGFhLaJbKUNiP7F2tzv7JM61PIj4Q-Qq3fjNA-P2pENvKxGvnmLhA6gUkZ_t2PjjOT3jYdT-6u/s1600/IMG_0051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVhNlPSCrA2SIzsk9G0VBZdEIrIjdRR8Z2L7B5m5Liw8wwf6NkjggY9MdRhNXKU4o6wuGFhLaJbKUNiP7F2tzv7JM61PIj4Q-Qq3fjNA-P2pENvKxGvnmLhA6gUkZ_t2PjjOT3jYdT-6u/s640/IMG_0051.JPG" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Full Soldering Tutorials:</span></b><br />
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My article above is not a true soldering tutorial in any way, rather, it is simply a proof-of-concept demonstration that you can in fact hook up some very heavy gauge wire to a HobbyKing XT60 connector. If you would like a true soldering tutorial, I recommend the following:<br />
<ol>
<li><a href="https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-solder---through-hole-soldering/all" target="_blank">Sparkfun's "How to Solder - Through-hole Soldering" Article</a> - the two videos here are definitely worth watching too! Very good information!</li>
<li><a href="http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering?view=all" target="_blank">Adafruit Guide To Excellent Soldering</a> - this is another fabulous soldering tutorial, with lots of great pictures, tips, & tricks!</li>
</ol>
The above two tutorials, when used together, are an absolutely fantastic reference and guide, and I very highly recommend you check them out. Also, don't forget to browse my blog and see what other articles I've written that may be interesting to you. See the links to the top-right, and don't forget to click the envelope icon to subscribe by email. Thanks, and happy days!<br />
~Gabriel<br />
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<b>EXTRAS:</b><br />
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The below pictures are in answer to Scott's post below. I am showing the tinning compound, and my tinned, worn-out, soldering iron tip.<br />
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Here is the <a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062721" target="_blank">tip tinner and cleaner from Radio Shack</a>, lying next to a brand new soldering tip, lying next to my <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=ML" target="_blank">60W soldering iron</a>. To use the tip tinner, just heat your soldering iron and roll your tip in it. The soldering iron originally had a nice new tip just like that in it. Now, it's all chewed up, as I have no temperature control on the iron, so it gets hotter than necessary and slowly melts itself away as I solder. The tip is about 2 years old and has been used on *many* many jobs. Notice the black crusty stuff all around the base of my soldering iron tip. That's heavy oxidation.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-aGsbGMJczOYO7V87-usnd36QrMlt4W6gW3CQOZwCtOVEjJDscoFX7UTJdUki2zralLUXxtJ7hqvKfbyZiBSIcTzxqOgDtztpWWyhXt75A2tV-X37mrS6fn7DKN4o8OjjTxgzbXJQrkz/s1600/IMG_0065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-aGsbGMJczOYO7V87-usnd36QrMlt4W6gW3CQOZwCtOVEjJDscoFX7UTJdUki2zralLUXxtJ7hqvKfbyZiBSIcTzxqOgDtztpWWyhXt75A2tV-X37mrS6fn7DKN4o8OjjTxgzbXJQrkz/s640/IMG_0065.JPG" height="640" width="478" /></a></div>
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Here, notice the silver area on my solder tip. That's a nicely tinned area of the tip. Since the iron is cool, it is a dull silver. However, if I were to heat the iron and clean the tip on a wet sponge, that dull silver area would be a very shiny silver area, which is indicative of a nicely tinned area. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm66XiTZAZdkvvmO6nEI_TOh1_HXUilUqmJxh2HYZONj1s-5Z_jLWvrV-fFWEQuwCx6_195kGx0NCPMvDTJSAmyE0DZvwQshXyh381jCh8PO3elOxaoz5p_iamR4Tq9_1to-L38K2_cfky/s1600/IMG_0066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm66XiTZAZdkvvmO6nEI_TOh1_HXUilUqmJxh2HYZONj1s-5Z_jLWvrV-fFWEQuwCx6_195kGx0NCPMvDTJSAmyE0DZvwQshXyh381jCh8PO3elOxaoz5p_iamR4Tq9_1to-L38K2_cfky/s400/IMG_0066.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
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Side view, again showing the tinned part of the tip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjO9qayRuE02HYSeFJG0aZYwA7vTFaMD7WMx71cRq5_SLWTSZ0Vbe1XmrFvAaUTJ5MKBHBn1QeAJduV05DZ4KbnXgYkmYp9eFKT4NA1pQ2HysTcz22YCYmast-GnsQpi6h8NOjeOBOg_B/s1600/IMG_0067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjO9qayRuE02HYSeFJG0aZYwA7vTFaMD7WMx71cRq5_SLWTSZ0Vbe1XmrFvAaUTJ5MKBHBn1QeAJduV05DZ4KbnXgYkmYp9eFKT4NA1pQ2HysTcz22YCYmast-GnsQpi6h8NOjeOBOg_B/s400/IMG_0067.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
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Back view, showing only oxidized areas of the tip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiazltO2Ig91PkvL8ORkx2z0Q9OPs2lPd9TXOfbgfnppofYSjtvuGAUoNHXrY3ILM73ZEUHCLbIAnokCkTT97A2thp-5SYDXSFBlGyT1HHNIL3h2YP8Rfld-c5hEPolE8bkg5H5Cqa-MtA/s1600/IMG_0068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiazltO2Ig91PkvL8ORkx2z0Q9OPs2lPd9TXOfbgfnppofYSjtvuGAUoNHXrY3ILM73ZEUHCLbIAnokCkTT97A2thp-5SYDXSFBlGyT1HHNIL3h2YP8Rfld-c5hEPolE8bkg5H5Cqa-MtA/s400/IMG_0068.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
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Another view, showing some more of the tinned part of the tip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBlgVceBM_hyphenhyphenWXeGkSMA6upJea-hSXP1I8oJShRBEWNV8J9Ldmm_SXPo18Gnqh0kPnGh96nZNmCANEnuUHeWaHjdAt5s_cGU1mWFDw3-R3VhToSWkUHLsJBdp2RnzLA6-JOLYawKjWP8Ov/s1600/IMG_0069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBlgVceBM_hyphenhyphenWXeGkSMA6upJea-hSXP1I8oJShRBEWNV8J9Ldmm_SXPo18Gnqh0kPnGh96nZNmCANEnuUHeWaHjdAt5s_cGU1mWFDw3-R3VhToSWkUHLsJBdp2RnzLA6-JOLYawKjWP8Ov/s400/IMG_0069.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-22043042664675582472013-02-13T20:38:00.002-08:002014-08-03T20:33:54.247-07:00Building the FliteTest NutBall Swappable<div>
By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 13 Feb 2013<br />
Updated: 25 June 2013</div>
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">THIS DOCUMENT IS INCOMPLETE, BUT HAS MANY GOOD LINKS, PICTURES, AND RESOURCES BELOW. IT WILL BE FINISHED IF PEOPLE BEGIN REQUESTING THAT I FINISH IT, OR IF THERE ARE MANY QUESTIONS ABOUT IT, WHICH YOU CAN PUT IN THE COMMENTS SECTION BELOW THIS POST. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;">--Since FliteTest has already done so much to support the build of this aircraft, it is likely that the links and pictures I already have below will suffice. Be sure to check out my Center of Gravity section below, however, as it pertains specifically to the 24" diameter NutBall, which FliteTest does not build. As you will see in their links below, they prefer to build their 19 1/3" version of the NutBall.</span><br />
<br />
<i>If you have any questions or comments while reading this, or any other article, please post it in the <u>comments</u> section below the article. Thanks!</i><br />
<u><br /></u>
<u>Related Articles:</u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/this-is-what-my-nutball-can-do.html" target="_blank">This is What My NutBall Can Do!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor and ONE Power Pod!</a></li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</a></li>
<li><div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html" target="_blank">Buying Parts for the FliteTest NutBall Swappable - All at Once</a></div>
</li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijVvUeOYsB5sITlWuW_n8IWdMwL7Zq2E8POLPf3ZduyFmUighp4D8S38eOYtOCXIVIxseB633SWQkFVR9fv7nWbCJTQC8M1uklIq2NcHecgQ3J6lw3VzvXL6fjeABCwuSJHtaB-pvvUUOD/s1600/IMG_0021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijVvUeOYsB5sITlWuW_n8IWdMwL7Zq2E8POLPf3ZduyFmUighp4D8S38eOYtOCXIVIxseB633SWQkFVR9fv7nWbCJTQC8M1uklIq2NcHecgQ3J6lw3VzvXL6fjeABCwuSJHtaB-pvvUUOD/s320/IMG_0021.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a>So, one of my friends I just helped get into RC was looking at my article above ("Buying Parts for the FliteTest Nutball Swappable - All at Once") the other day, and he asked me if I could post some dimensions, pictures, etc., and a few notes about how I built the airplane. So, that's why I'm writing this post. <br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">1st: Watch the Build Videos and Read the Flite Test Articles:</span></b><br />
-Even watching the non-NutBall Build Videos will give you valuable building tips. At a bare minimum, watch the Power Pod and NutBall build videos, as they both give you tips and tricks necessary to successfully build the NutBall:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Power Pod Build: <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-swappable-power-pod-kit" target="_blank">http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-swappable-power-pod-kit</a></li>
<li>Power Pod Electronics install: <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-swappable-connecting-electronics" target="_blank">http://flitetest.com/articles/ft-swappable-connecting-electronics</a> </li>
<li>NutBall: <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/nutball_scratch_build" target="_blank">http://flitetest.com/articles/nutball_scratch_build</a> </li>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3__FHKIUvk" target="_blank">The new FliteTest NutBall build video</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JB8NiD00T9I" target="_blank">The original FliteTest NutBall build video</a> (I like this build video better)</li>
</ol>
<li>Delta: <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/DeltaScratchBuild" target="_blank">http://flitetest.com/articles/DeltaScratchBuild</a></li>
<li>FT Flyer: <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/ft_flyer" target="_blank">http://flitetest.com/articles/ft_flyer</a></li>
<li>You may also check out this article here, titled, <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/Swappable_Nutball_and_Hots_Dart" target="_blank">"<span style="background-color: white;">Swappable Nutball and Hots Dart"</span></a></li>
</ol>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">2nd: Download & Assemble the Plans</span></b><br />
-Download them, then print them, cut off the edges of the paper as necessary, and tape them all together to make full-size plans:<br />
-I noticed that FliteTest has updated some of their plans in the articles above, so feel free to use those. However, if you want the exact ones I have used to successfully make several NutBalls now, here they are:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0BwHItOaHOOvdZnA3QlpvQ0hXVDg/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">All plans are available here.</a> To download them, click on the file you want, then go to File --> Download. <br />
A brief description of the files is below.<br />
(Note: I originally got the NutBall plans from <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836389&page=2" target="_blank">page 2</a> of <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836389" target="_blank">this RCGroups build thread</a>. The NutBall was originally made by "<a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836389" target="_blank">GoldGuy</a>," if I'm not mistaken. Then, FliteTest simply came along and made a swappable fuselage for it, and made it into one of their most popular planes in their "swappable series.")<br />
<ol>
<li><u>NutBall_full 17''.pdf</u> - these are the 17 inch diameter plans. I don't use these, but here they are in case you want them; I prefer the 24" diameter NutBall. This is a one-page view.</li>
<li><u>NutBall_tiled 17''.pdf</u> - these are the 17 inch diameter plans, tiled so that you can print them out on a regular printer, cut off the excess paper, and tape them all together to get full-size plans.</li>
<li><div class="MsoNormal">
<u>NutBall_24_tiled - build this one!!! (will require 2 sheets
of 20'' x 30'' Dollar Tree Foam).pdf </u>- <span style="background-color: yellow;">these are the NutBall plans I use</span>. They work great. I prefer the 24" NutBall over the 17" of 19" NutBall, by the way, because it is still very easy to use Dollar Tree foamboard, and it has waaaay more wing area than the 17" or 19" versions, so it will have a much lower wing loading and hence be able to fly much more slowly. <i> It will have more of a "floaty" feel to it (which is good), than the other two versions, assuming all other things are equal.</i> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
-For your information, the <b>17"</b>, <b>19"</b>, and <b>24"</b> diameter versions of the NutBall have wing areas of <b>908 in^2</b>, <b>1134 in^2</b>, and <b>1810 in^2</b>, respectively. That means that the 24" diameter NutBall has 99% more wing area than the 17" NutBall and 60% more wing area than the 19" diameter NutBall. Again, this means it can carry much more weight and/or fly much more slowly. </div>
</li>
<li><div class="MsoNormal">
<u>swappable fuse & Delta fins (print ''poster'', 100%,
w-Cut Marks, Labels, & 0.5in overlap).pdf</u> - <span style="background-color: yellow;">this file contains the swappable fuselage plans I used</span> for my NutBall and Delta wing. It also contains the Delta wing fins if you want them for building the swappable Delta wing plane. Using Adobe Reader X, print as the instructions say in the file name (ie: poster, 100%.....etc). The fuselage, firewall, and delta fins are to scale, but the landing gear is not. It's shape is correct, but not its size.</div>
</li>
<li><div class="MsoNormal">
<u>swappable delta</u> (print ''poster'', 100%, w-Cut Marks,
Labels, & 0.5in overlap).pdf - Delta plans. here they are if you want them.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3rd: Buy the Airplane Parts:</span></b><br />
<b>Estimated cost of airplane only, with *no* electronics: $5~$15.</b><br />
<b>Estimated cost of optional colored packing tape (for decorating): $5~$45, depending on how many colors you buy.</b><br />
<b>Estimated cost of building supplies: $25~$40.</b><br />
<ol>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Airframe:</li>
<ol>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">two <a href="http://www.dollartree.com/school-office-supplies/Desk-Supplies/Paper-Stationery/Readi-Board-Foam-Boards/291c434c427p16450/index.pro?method=search" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: initial;" target="_blank">$1 sheets of 20"x30" foamboard from the Dollar Tree</a> (note: this is <a href="http://www.goadams.com/" target="_blank">ADAMS</a> brand foamboard).</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">1/8" plywood sheet (maybe 8"x10") from the Hobby Lobby balsa sheet rack in the back of the store ($1.79 last I checked I believe)</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">$1~$2 pack of 100 shish-ka-bob (bamboo) skewers from Walmart (in the BBQ section of the Garden Center) or wherever</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Jumbo popsickle (craft) sticks at Walmart - pack of like 100 for a couple bucks - to be used to make the 2 control horns</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">(music wire)</li>
</ol>
<li>Landing Gear (optional; note: plane is easier for a beginner to land *without* landing gear, since you can just safely belly land it *anywhere* in a large grass field, without having to worry about needing a smooth surface or accidentally flipping it over due to the wheels catching):</li>
<ol>
<li>(wheels)</li>
<li>(Wheel Collars)</li>
<li>(Music Wire)</li>
</ol>
<li>Building Supplies:</li>
<ol>
<li>Tape:</li>
<ol>
<li>Packing Tape:</li>
<ol>
<li>$1 roll of cheapo clear packing tape from the Dollar Tree</li>
</ol>
<li>Fiberglass-stranded Tape (mandatory item, use as the build video shows):</li>
<ol>
<li>Scotch Strapping Tape (small roll): OR</li>
<li>Duck brand Strapping Tape: OR</li>
<li>Scotch Extreme Packing Tape:</li>
</ol>
<li><br /></li>
<li><br /></li>
<li><br /></li>
<li><br /></li>
</ol>
<li>Hot Glue Gun:</li>
<li>X-Acto knife, box-cutter knife, razor-blade knife, or equivalent, $0.50~$8 (note to self: add link to X-blade knife & blades on HK)</li>
<li>Precision Screwdriver set: --add link to the Husky set I have, as well as the decent Harbor Freight set.</li>
</ol>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><br /></li>
</ol>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">4th: Build the Plane!</span></b><br />
<b>Estimated build time (this does <i>not </i>include electronics installation): 4.5~5.5 hrs. for the experienced builder, including electronics installation; 6~10 hrs. for the novice builder.</b><br />
Tips:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lOOwL-XJSsRml2_QoYvUuI9aqZJZHMbnKajL1XJo-FEvq_8vRW3Jut3vgYNG52b-EbSFbe-vKlev3flfn5L-zCaCRRZmDkLM9GJL2ozDT4MrKMpRMiVXv5lpd-EdeL8Xqmxl9x5S3EJl/s1600/Jumbo+Popsicle+Stick+Control+Horns+-+snippet.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lOOwL-XJSsRml2_QoYvUuI9aqZJZHMbnKajL1XJo-FEvq_8vRW3Jut3vgYNG52b-EbSFbe-vKlev3flfn5L-zCaCRRZmDkLM9GJL2ozDT4MrKMpRMiVXv5lpd-EdeL8Xqmxl9x5S3EJl/s320/Jumbo+Popsicle+Stick+Control+Horns+-+snippet.PNG" height="268" width="320" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>The Jumbo Popsicle Sticks are used to make control horns. Click <a href="http://bit.ly/1esuenu" target="_blank">here for the file</a>, then go to File --> Print. Make sure to print the file <u>Actual Size</u>, NOT Shrinking it or Fitting it to a Page.</li>
<li>1.94" high parts box, for wingtip polyhedral......follow build video</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyyWiyGX8f5VnhG_8eOKUsm5PUQeXnh0lbjhv4v-537WgYUEFMn6Kk-Fq4g8ms2RPjwUWMP1cmRqQw6KNe_bv16ygibCqZfbGoGJVWtds2H50fqmPxR5PzZ7Rwybhfg2WPMP8RcE63sIdM/s1600/IMG_0029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyyWiyGX8f5VnhG_8eOKUsm5PUQeXnh0lbjhv4v-537WgYUEFMn6Kk-Fq4g8ms2RPjwUWMP1cmRqQw6KNe_bv16ygibCqZfbGoGJVWtds2H50fqmPxR5PzZ7Rwybhfg2WPMP8RcE63sIdM/s320/IMG_0029.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a><br />
<u><br /></u>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">5th: Buy the Electronics</span></b><br />
<b>...</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">6th: Install the Electronics & Balance the Propeller</span></b><br />
<b>...</b><br />
<br />
<u><br /></u>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">7th: Center of Gravity (C.G.), Maiden Flight, and Trimming</span></b><br />
After much flight testing and probably hundreds of flights, here's my Center of Gravity recommendations for the <b>24" diameter NutBall:</b><br />
<span style="background-color: cyan;">Ideal CG: 5.5"~6.0" back from the leading edge of the wing</span>, measured right along the wing root (ie: down the centerline). <span style="background-color: cyan;">The CG on this plane, however, can be about as far forward as you want (I didn't go farther forward than ~5.0"), and as far back as 6.5"</span>. With a CG of 6.5" the plane can be very fun to fly and with large control throws does back flips (EXTREMELY tight, approx. 3 ft. diameter loops), and flat spins very well. However, inverted flight is horrible with the CG at 6.5" back, as the plane is somewhat unstable and hence trims out with some down-elevator. For nice inverted flight, 5.5~6.0" back works nicely.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-17040968499004755012013-02-02T21:25:00.001-08:002013-07-17T20:19:42.925-07:00This is What My NutBall Can Do!By Gabriel Staples<br />
Written 3 Feb. 2013<br />
<u><br /></u>
<u>Related Articles:</u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/07/staples-stingray-glider-sneak-peak.html" target="_blank">Staples Stingray Glider (modelled after the Nutball) Sneak Peak</a><div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html" target="_blank">Buying Parts for the FliteTest NutBall Swappable - All atOnce</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor and ONE Power Pod!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-flitetest-nutball-swappable.html" target="_blank">Building the FliteTest/GoldGuy Nutball Swappable</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
</ul>
<br />
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; margin-bottom: 10px;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/LuqXOFm7pPA?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe>This is a short (very windy) flight review and verbal description of my FliteTest Swappable NutBall airplane. It flies great, is a blast to fly, and is a solid, economical aircraft! I made it for ~$70 or so with *everything* I needed, minus the Tx and charger. I also used home-made jumbo pop-sickle stick control horns. Despite its 3-channel control, it is very maneuverable and acrobatic, as the video shows, yet with small surface deflections and a reasonably-sized motor, it can also be a very docile and forgiving flyer, well suited to a beginner. As a matter of fact, with a moderately-sized motor (120W~200W) (or using a 300W 3S motor on a 2S LiPo), and with small control throws, I'd say this airplane is a solid beginner airframe (but slightly skewed more towards the intermediate side of the beginner spectrum).</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; margin-bottom: 10px;">
With a hot 300W high-speed setup and large control surface throws, as in this video, however, it becomes an exciting intermediate to expert airplane. The setup in the video has a top speed of ~60mph, and in a dive, I've approached probably 80mph. The first time I did that, however (not recorded :( ), the high speeds caused the vertical stabilizer to flutter and snap nearly off. It folded down against the body and made a loud "snapping" sound as it slapped against the body. I quickly slowed down and the vertical stab. popped back up part way and I made a safe landing in the grass. A bamboo shish-kabob skewer embedded in the vertical stab, and some hot glue, fixed this problem. </div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; margin-bottom: 10px;">
I used <a href="http://www.dollartree.com/school-office-supplies/Desk-Supplies/Paper-Stationery/Readi-Board-Foam-Boards/291c434c427p16450/index.pro?method=search" style="color: #0088cc; text-decoration: initial;" target="_blank">Dollar Tree foamboard (20" x 30")</a> sheets, x 2, to make this airplane.<br />
<br />
List of Recommended Beginner parts for the NutBall can be found here: <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html</a>.<br />
<br />
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO LEAVE QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS BELOW.<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-8260043966346293372013-01-31T21:03:00.001-08:002014-07-19T19:53:06.889-07:00Buying Parts for the FliteTest NutBall Swappable - All at OnceBy Gabriel Staples<br />
Written: 1 Feb 2013<br />
Updated: 16 March 2014<br />
-added warnings about using the wrong prop with the wrong motor<br />
<span style="background-color: lime;">19 July 2014: Hey look! Hobbyking sells a small, EPP (ie: very durable foam) version of the Nutball now! <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=55101&aff=281904" target="_blank">See here.</a></span><br />
<u><br /></u>
<u>Related Articles:</u><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-flitetest-nutball-swappable.html" target="_blank">Building the FliteTest NutBall Swappable</a> - this post includes info. about where the C.G. should be on the 24" NutBall</li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/this-is-what-my-nutball-can-do.html" target="_blank">This is What My NutBall Can Do!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor & ONE Power Pod!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup</a></li>
</ul>
<ul>
</ul>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_TL7t2nKy6IQFebX0vqkDqb0WMqT9OywOlaSCraLvwGq0WX8sB5IZjKJGf1kzvP50yprsWrEgeHjblBREGmqm1RJPDOhkvR51SYNob_TbytepOpxGwr-xdEFAbNOnucU2xcyX3BcdzO65/s1600/Nutball+%232+-+for+someone+else+crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_TL7t2nKy6IQFebX0vqkDqb0WMqT9OywOlaSCraLvwGq0WX8sB5IZjKJGf1kzvP50yprsWrEgeHjblBREGmqm1RJPDOhkvR51SYNob_TbytepOpxGwr-xdEFAbNOnucU2xcyX3BcdzO65/s1600/Nutball+%232+-+for+someone+else+crop.jpg" /></a><br />
So, this week I built a <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/nutball-scratch-build/" target="_blank">NutBall</a> (see my NutBall in action <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuqXOFm7pPA" target="_blank">here</a>) to give to a friend turning 18. He has no RC equipment whatsoever, and I am only giving him the airplane, with no electronics. Here it is all ready to go (see picture ot the right). It only took me a little over 4 hrs to put together this time, since I've done this a few times before. It just needs the motor, battery, ESC, servos, etc.<br />
<br />
For a <b>good <u>introductory-level beginner setup</u></b>, for someone with absolutely no equipment, who just wants the <b><u>basics</u></b>, here's what I'd recommend: <br />
<br />
<i>Note: if any items are back-ordered (the stock status is listed at the bottom of each item on HobbyKing, to the left of the price), then you may want to do two separate orders: one with in-stock items, and the other with out-of-stock/backordered items. This is to help speed up the shipping, as standard shipping takes 3~5 weeks from Hong Kong, and waiting for a back-ordered item can hold up your order an <u>additional</u> 1 week to ~2 months+ or so (backordered items usually mean about 3~4 weeks extra waiting, but this can be longer or shorter). <span style="background-color: white; color: white; font-size: xx-small;"> </span></i><i><span style="background-color: white; color: white; font-size: xx-small;">(So....you may be wondering why I don't purchase elsewhere with this type of slow shipping......well, here's my reasoning: If you want something quickly instead of inexpensively, remove several of the items below because they are so difficult to find elsewhere, then multiply the price of the remaining items by a factor of 3 or 4, and that is the price you can expect to pay at many store-front shops). </span></i><br />
<b>My recommended Order List (<u>Electronics Only</u>, not airplane parts and hardware) is as Follows:</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Transmitter (Tx) and Receiver (Rx), HobbyKing HK6S $29: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16239&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16239&aff=281904</a> - Note: one really nice feature about this transmitter is that it has a low voltage alarm which turns on at 8.5V to help you know when your transmitter battery is low. When the red LED starts to blink, and the transmitter begins beeping, it is time to change (or charge, if applicable) the transmitter battery. </li>
<li>ESC: Turnigy Plush 30A, $12: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=2164&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=2164&aff=281904</a> </li>
<li>Motor, Turnigy D2822/14 Brushless Outrunner, 1450 kv, 160W, $8: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12916&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12916&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>3.5mm bullet connectors to connect ESC to motor, $2: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=68&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=68&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>Heat Shrink tubing (3mm, 4mm, & 5mm in red AND black), ~$2 total: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=5275&aff=281904" target="_blank">3mm red</a>, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=3831&aff=281904" target="_blank">3mm black</a>; <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=5277&aff=281904" target="_blank">4mm red</a>, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=3832&aff=281904" target="_blank">4mm black</a>; <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=5278&aff=281904" target="_blank">5mm red</a>, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=3833&aff=281904" target="_blank">5mm black</a></li>
<li>HXT900 9g servos x 3 (1 for a spare), $2.70 each x 3 = $8.10: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904</a> </li>
<li>3mm prop savers (will need to be drilled using 1/8" drill bit to slightly enlarge hole), $3: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8240&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8240&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>SF 9x6 Props (these are excellent propellers to use with the motor above and the 2S LiPo battery below; <span style="color: red;">WARNING: do NOT use these props with the motor above and a 3S LiPo, as it will pull too much current and burn up the motor</span>), $3: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9846&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9846&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>APC-Style Props, 7x5E (this is the ideal propeller to use with the motor above and the 3S LiPo battery below; note: though it is perfectly safe to use a 2S LiPo with this prop, and the plane still flies fine, it will have reduced power and speed when using this prop with a 2S LiPo; therefore, if you want better power, use one of the larger props in this list when using the above motor with a 2S LiPo), $2, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=22424&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=22424&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>APC-Style Props, 8x6E x 2, $1 each x 2 = $2 (these are also good with the above motor and a 2S LiPo; <span style="color: red;">WARNING: do NOT use these props with the motor above and a 3S LiPo, as it will pull too much current and burn up the motor</span>), <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=5438&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=5438&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>2S LiPo Battery, 1300mAh x 2 <u><b>or more</b></u> (for lower-speed flight), $8 each x 2 = $16: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11902&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11902&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>3S LiPo Battery, 1300mAh x 2 <u><b>or more</b></u> (for higher-speed flight), $9 each x 2 = $18: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11903&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11903&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>XT60 connectors x 1 pack, ~$3.50, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>Battery Voltage Checker, $10: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19946&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19946&aff=281904</a> and/or this one, with beeper (to notify you when your battery is low, so you can land), $4: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18588&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18588&aff=281904 </a></li>
<li>Cheap Charger & Power Supply, $11: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8247&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8247&aff=281904 </a> </li>
<li>LiPo-Safe Charge Bag, $3: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>Velcro, $2.50 (this stuff is better than anything in a local store, and 1/3 the price, so I really recommend it--a mandatory item to secure your batteries to the plane): <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9374&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9374&aff=281904</a> </li>
<li>Quick connectors/EZ connectors for push-rods, $1.50, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8519&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8519&aff=281904</a></li>
</ol>
<div>
Item Total: ~$149</div>
<div>
<u>Gues</u>timated Shipping, based on past experience: ~$35'ish</div>
<div>
Order Total: ~$185</div>
<div>
<br />
<b>My recommended Order List (for <u>Airplane Parts, Tools and Hardware</u> is as Follows: </b><br />
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.dollartree.com/school-office-supplies/Desk-Supplies/Paper-Stationery/Readi-Board-Foam-Boards/291c434c427p16450/index.pro?method=search" target="_blank">Dollar Tree foamboard</a>, $1/sheet x 2 sheets = $2 for the 24" NutBall version (<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-flitetest-nutball-swappable.html" target="_blank">get plans for it on my post here</a>).</li>
<li>bamboo skewers (ie: Shish Kabob skewers), 12" long, 1 pack of 100 or so, $1~$2 at your local store</li>
<li>2mm (0.078") diameter music wire, for the landing gear, ~$3.50 at your local RC hobby shop or toy train store, or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Music-Wire-36-078-15/dp/B000BQQ3AO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2IKCICLWUXW89&coliid=I1J5LCLDVHX5TG" target="_blank">~$10 (with shipping) on Amazon here</a></li>
<li>1.19mm (0.047") diameter music wire, for the control rods, ~$3 at your local RC hobby shop or toy train store, or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/K-S-Engineering-502-Music/dp/B0006MZNAE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1364699360&sr=8-2&keywords=music+wire+.047+36" target="_blank">$8.33 (with shipping) on Amazon here</a></li>
<li>control horns, $0.50, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8235&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8235&aff=281904</a>; or, as I prefer, build your own from jumbo Popsicle craft sticks (<a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-flitetest-nutball-swappable.html" target="_blank">see here, under the 4th section, called "Build the Plane"</a>). </li>
<li>50mm wheels, $3, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10404&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10404&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>2.1mm wheel collars, $2, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8408&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8408&aff=281904</a> </li>
<li>X-blade knife, $1, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9332&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9332&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>extra X-blades, $1/pack x 3 packs or so = $3, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9333&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9333&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>simple prop balancer, $1.50, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14927&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14927&aff=281904</a> (I have this nice one, if you want it instead, $20: <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHY61&P=ML" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHY61&P=ML</a>)</li>
<ol>
<li>Having a well-balance
prop can potentially make a huge difference in minimizing vibration and power losses and prolonging your equipment life.</li>
<li>For propeller-balancing instructions, techniques, and tips, read the Top Flite Power Point Propeller Balancer manual, pgs. 3-6, here: <a href="http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/topq5700-manual.pdf" target="_blank">http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/topq5700-manual.pdf</a>. Of the three methods described in the manual, I prefer "method 2" (using super glue and accelerator to add weight to the back side of the light blade on the propeller).</li>
</ol>
<li>super glue, medium viscosity, with clog-free cap, $2.50 (I love these caps, and this glue is 1/3 the price as you'll find elsewhere): <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7173&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7173&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>super glue accelerator, $5 (this stuff allows the super glue to cure instantly, and is necessary in order to balance a propeller), <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8456&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8456&aff=281904</a></li>
</ol>
</div>
<div>
Item Total: ~$30<br />
Guestimated Shipping for the HobbyKing portion of the order, ~$12<br />
Order Total: ~$42<br />
<br />
<u>Grand Total: $185+$42 = $227</u><br />
<span style="background-color: cyan;">Note: this may seem like a lot, but REMEMBER: most of this equipment is support equipment you have to buy ONE TIME (ex: batteries, charger, glue, radio transmitter, battery voltage checker), or parts that come in bags with enough pieces for 2~4+ planes (ex: prop savers, wheel collars, music wire, control horns, velcro, bamboo skewers). Not only that, but the power pod is swappable! </span><span style="background-color: lime;">THEREFORE, THE COST OF YOUR NEXT PLANE WILL ONLY BE ABOUT $15~$20, OR LESS, IF YOU USE THE SAME SWAPPABLE POWER POD</span><span style="background-color: cyan;"> but buy new servos,</span><span style="background-color: yellow;"> OR ~$70~$80 if you buy a new motor, speed controller, battery, and receiver</span><span style="background-color: cyan;">. See how cheap this can be once you get started!?</span><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Miscellaneous Extras to buy locally:</b></div>
<div>
<ol>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Clear Packing Tape at </span><span class="SpellE" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Walmart</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"> or wherever else you choose to buy it. – </span><span class="GramE" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">good</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"> for repairs where the full stickiness and strength of strapping tape is not needed.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Scotch strapping tape at </span><span class="SpellE" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Walmart, Meijer,</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"> or wherever else you choose (strapping tape has fiberglass strands running down it), or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Strapping-Tape-Yards-8950-30/dp/B002VPDKY0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2IKCICLWUXW89&coliid=I1DPB34LCWXGNJ" target="_blank">on Amazon here for only $5.09!</a></span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR" style="line-height: 22px;"></span><span style="line-height: 22px;">***Dual temperature*** Hot Glue gun and glue, ~$15 (with glue sticks) from </span><span class="SpellE" style="line-height: 22px;">Walmart</span><span style="line-height: 22px;">. “Dual temperature” means that the glue gun MUST have dual heat settings, high/low so that you can use low setting when you need to and not melt the foam plane, yet you still have high to help it heat up faster and get more sticky on surfaces that can handle a little more heat (hotter = more sticky). You can also buy a good one of these glue guns from Amazon here: </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Technologies-0443-Two-Temp-Cordless/dp/B001689XCQ" style="color: purple; line-height: 22px; text-decoration: initial;" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Technologies-0443-Two-Temp-Cordless/dp/B001689XCQ</a><span style="line-height: 22px;"> <-- Note: I own this </span><i style="line-height: 22px;">exact</i><span style="line-height: 22px;"> glue gun and it works well. It works fantastic for RC planes and has a nice, precision tip and hasn’t broken on me with regular use in the past 4 years I’ve had it. If the glue ever gets jammed (has happened a few times after being on high heat for very long periods of time), pull the glue stick out, pull off the melted portion that may be getting stuck in the gun, re-insert glue stick, and continue use. I use the “high” heat setting to heat it up quickly, then I switch to “low” once it’s hot so I don’t melt the foam. About 1 minute before each use, I switch back to "high" to get the glue sticky and easier to squeeze out, then during use I switch back to "low" so it doesn't get too hot. This process can take some practice, but ultimately you know the glue is hot enough when it is hot enough to burn you if you don't roll it off your fingers, but cool enough to *not* burn you if you *do* roll it off your fingers. You're smart, figure it out. :) So far that I have found, the quality can’t be beat for its price, though better dual temperature glue guns do exist.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="line-height: 22px;">8 AA batteries for the transmitter</span></span></li>
</ol>
</div>
<br />
<b><u>Please leave your comment below</u></b>: So, would you recommend this list of parts for a NutBall to a friend? Why, or why not?<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-72331276412972163192013-01-27T17:51:00.003-08:002013-03-26T05:40:45.939-07:00Calculations For Additional Capacitors Necessary in a certain 21-motor Airplane SetupThese are my calcs, in regards to Posts 540~543 (here: <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523&page=36" target="_blank">http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523&page=36</a> and here <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523&page=37" target="_blank">http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523&page=37</a>). Basically, I tried to figure out how many additional capacitors are necessary on each of the 21 ESCs in order to offset the voltage ripples caused by <u>increased battery lead length</u> (which can destroy/damage the existing capacitors in your ESC if you don't add capacitors to help absorb the magnetically-induced voltage spikes [refer to post 1 in the above thread for more info about this]).<br />
<br />
I am only putting this spreadsheet here because RCGroups won't allow it as an attachment on their website. <br />
To download the file, click here then go to File --> Download: <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwHItOaHOOvdeFQ3WTd2T1Q5Y2s/edit" target="_blank">https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwHItOaHOOvdeFQ3WTd2T1Q5Y2s/edit</a>.<br />
<b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">The above link is to the old spreadsheet. I have corrected some errors, and the NEW SPREADSHEET LINK IS FARTHER BELOW!</span></b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwHItOaHOOvdeFQ3WTd2T1Q5Y2s/edit" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IT3GZCMJF5nuvR2FCOW4X0nNe5lLklBn7fhfkxSqn61zOQfdtzW9xa79bgqh6lKcFxJ07BsUhQ5q3mZb_7FMn_Ffh24qWXWCoV1vukOmGJZH5W0oLiRL_EPCJOLBhucDLDLO87y-Rq7O/s640/Capacitor+Calcs+in+multi-motor+setup.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="color: red; font-size: large;">FOR NEW SPREADSHEET, CLICK LINK BELOW</span></b><br />
<b>Update: 20 March 2013 - Spreadsheet corrected and now available here (go to File --> Download to save): <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwHItOaHOOvdQmp3c3gydzV3SU0/edit" target="_blank">https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwHItOaHOOvdQmp3c3gydzV3SU0/edit</a></b><br />
<br />
Update notes: I added the "Total Capacitance Needed" (Row 25 in the new spreadsheet) in the calculations, and I removed the row called "Additional Length, beyond ESC's design, for which you must add Caps (in.)" (Row 22 in the old spreadsheet). I then added Row 26 as well, and corrected the formulas in Row 27. This allowed me to account for the additional current in the entire wire station length, not just in the length beyond that of what the ESC was intended to handle (Cell Q14) at its max rated continuous current (Cell Q11).<br />
<br />
Here is a table of the differences in end-results between the old and new spreadsheets, for this one particular example:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu6M_1WLZETMZiYcczgARZta2QH3LSNNB5GuxgdPRkoY1J4dX3Qps-wdjOfxA843yORG9mhRmpU_mfic-VvMLeXhHc6nFq6fIzLuiHSOvtU9AFjEsw_dMq3EgCVhhndsqK0-fBwtBxVYS2/s1600/20130320+-+Table+of+new+versus+old+cap+calcs+for+multimotor+airplane.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu6M_1WLZETMZiYcczgARZta2QH3LSNNB5GuxgdPRkoY1J4dX3Qps-wdjOfxA843yORG9mhRmpU_mfic-VvMLeXhHc6nFq6fIzLuiHSOvtU9AFjEsw_dMq3EgCVhhndsqK0-fBwtBxVYS2/s400/20130320+-+Table+of+new+versus+old+cap+calcs+for+multimotor+airplane.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
For jaccies (referring to <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523&page=39" target="_blank">Post #579 here</a>)<br />
<a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwHItOaHOOvdSk9PZ2F0X0wtYm8/edit" target="_blank">Download spreadsheet here</a> (go to File --> Download to save)<br />
<br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-72593051679421439412013-01-22T20:48:00.003-08:002017-02-26T20:24:57.147-08:00Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1; text-align: center;">
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>This article is also posted on FliteTest.com here: </b><b><a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/Parallel_Charging_Your_LiPo_Batteries" target="_blank">http://flitetest.com/articles/Parallel_Charging_Your_LiPo_Batteries </a></b></span></i><br />
<b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Parallel Charging Your LiPo Batteries</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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By Gabriel Staples<o:p></o:p></div>
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Initially written 12 April 2011<o:p></o:p></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
Preface & explanations added on 22 Jan. 2013<br />
Most Recent Update: 26 Feb 2017<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
Update History (newest on top):<br />
-added a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9DQnJ0H3_g" target="_blank">YouTube video demonstrating "How to Use a Power Meter to Safety put 10 x 3S LiPo Batteries in Parallel for Charging"</a> - 26 Feb 2017 </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
-added a lot of notes about fuse-protected parallel charge boards - 21 July 2015</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
-added a couple more things to list of Do's & Don'ts, & clarified "But what about cell balance..." section; added another rule about battery chemistry - 5 May 2013</div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Why Use Parallel Charging?</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14856&aff=281904" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEjwd1RE0xV_cyXe3kgcwRHGbPPlcWKj9EqTXZSye9RlZNaNjt-RZEPv-0PwW7VAMKVigM8IdV_10FNfUaZ2w7hcVGvwgKZuCvdilawjpDlMzfQa8wEUe3Rzq32U0CwEjWU-VNXO7y8A2-/s200/XT60+parallel+board+from+HobbyKing.PNG" width="200" /></a>I use a Triton 2 EQ 100W balance charger (<a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZA8&P=ML" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZA8&P=ML</a> [Note: I don’t really recommend this charger, I just bought it before I knew
much about chargers. This thing is
ridiculously expensive for what it does and has some silly quirks, occasional bugs, and outdated
firmware]) to regularly charge up to 8 2S 500-1000 mAh packs simultaneously, <u>all in
just over 1 hour</u>! I also regularly charge 3S LiPos and micro 1S Lipos (I’ve
done up to <u>14 of those at once</u>) simultaneously using that one,
single-port charger. This is called parallel charging. <b>Essentially, parallel
charging allows you to plug in many batteries at once, into one port in a
single charger, and, if your charger is powerful enough, charge them all in ~1
hour or less. All at once—boom,
done! No more messing around buying many
chargers or setting up the charger many times to charge multiple
batteries. </b>I use <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14856&aff=281904" target="_blank">this charge board</a> (shown above) plus a couple other parallel adapters I plug into it. If you use Deans connectors, use <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24230&aff=281904" target="_blank">this board instead</a>. The board by itself
is designed for only up to 6 batteries at once, so I added a couple parallel
harnesses to get 8. However, YOU MUST KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING OR PARALLEL
CHARGING IS DANGEROUS. For example, if you plug a 2S battery in with a 3S
battery, the 2S battery will be destroyed and catch fire if you leave it there.
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Background:</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
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<b><i>One thing that
annoys me very much about virtually all local hobby shops is that as of today,
22 Jan 2013, I haven’t found a single one that uses parallel charging or sells
parallel charging equipment yet, and yet I’ve been into about 12 local shops in the past few years and looked specifically for parallel charge equipment. This
charging technique has been around for probably 6 years, and is very effective
and safe when done right, so I have to assume that most local hobby shops are
either A) completely oblivious about parallel charging, B) do not want to
promote it because it is better for them to sell another charger rather than a
parallel charge board (ie: they’ll make more money selling another charger), or
C) they secretly use this technique at home but simply don’t want to be
responsible for user error if a customer destroys their equipment or property
if they don’t know what they’re doing while attempting it.</i></b><br />
<br />
<b>UPDATE (21 July 2015): I have found a hobby shop that now has parallel charging equipment! It is <a href="http://www.radicalrc.com/shop/" target="_blank">Radical RC</a>. (They've had them for a couple years now, I just haven't updated this article until now). Way to go Radical RC!</b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
(photo below: parallel charging in progress--6 2S LiFe batteries plugged into a parallel charge board <br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">[photo source: <a href="http://www.buddyrc.com/" target="_blank">http://www.buddyrc.com/</a>])</span></div>
</div>
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<a href="http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_ajIowkd10YuezEewF26jwY71K9r_g_qiMKC26qwA7_DQetbV9VMmaO3_yh5K-bWSmcFBXL2U19SHZFlrUHCvhLMzbkhjj_i6pf-m76YWPNRB86A4HwECDozwXeIl8rFoEGJXAxCapg4/s320/image001.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Despite this, I
am a strong proponent of parallel charging and have used it nearly every charge
I’ve ever done since I discovered it in the early part of 2011. I am always recommending to people that they
use parallel charging, as it allows any single port LiPo charger to charge many
batteries at once instead of just one battery at once. With the right harness, even a cheap $5 2-3S
LiPo charger can do parallel charging!
(However, this is less useful since these low-power chargers don’t have
enough power to maintain a 1C charge rate anyway). So, let’s get started. <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b>First off,
parallel charging can be done with LiPo, LiFe, or Li-Ion batteries ONLY. Do NOT attempt to use this technique with
NiCad/NiMH batteries, etc., as they use a peak voltage (</b><b>Δ</b><b>V) detection charge technique rather than a
constant current/constant voltage (CC/CV) charge technique. A battery chemistry capable of being charged
via the CC/CV technique is a must for parallel charging to be safe and
effective. <o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">What is parallel charging?</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
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Parallel charging
means that you plug many LiPo batteries into each other via a special board or
harness so that all of their negative leads are connected to each other, and
all of their positive leads are connected to each other. Now, the entire battery packs are in
parallel. In order to balance the cells
with your charger, however, the balance wires of all of the batteries must also
all be connected in order to put the individual cells in parallel with each
other. WARNING: YOU CAN ONLY PARALLEL
CHARGE BATTERIES OF THE <u>SAME CELL COUNT</u> (or the lower cell count battery
will catch fire), AND SIMILAR STATE OF CHARGE (or damage to the lesser-charged
battery will occur). When many batteries
are connected in parallel, the charger “sees” all of them as a single, large
battery, with a capacity equivalent to the sum of their individual capacities. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">But what about cell balance—how does parallel charging really work?</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
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In nature, whenever
a gradient exists, a natural balancing process will occur. A gradient means that there is a high
concentration of something as compared to a low concentration of that same
thing near it. For example, if you pour
salt into still water, the area of water where the salt is will become very salty. The rest of the water lacks salt, so this
“salt gradient” will naturally cause the high concentration of salt to balance
out, or diffuse, into the water with a low concentration of salt. The same occurs with heat. Heat will naturally diffuse from a hot area
into a cold area, attempting to find a balance.
If the hot area always remains hotter than the colder area, it is not
because the heat isn’t diffusing, but rather it is because a heat source exists
at the hot spot, and there is a resistance to the heat flow preventing it from
fully diffusing. Pressure also follows this natural balancing process. Take a blown up balloon, for example, and untie it. There is a large pressure difference (or gradient) between the air in the balloon, and the air in the room. The high-pressure air in the balloon will rush out into the lower-pressure air in the room, diffusing the high pressure into the lower pressure until an equilibrium pressure is achieved. Electricity also
follows this principle of diffusion. The
battery with the higher voltage will naturally push its charge (electrons) into
the batteries with lower voltage, when plugged in parallel, until all batteries
equalize to the same voltage. Since the individual cells of each battery are also in parallel with the individual cells of all the rest of the batteries, when the balance leads are connected in parallel (by plugging them all into a parallel charge board), all of the strings of cells in parallel will also equalize to the same voltage. Now, when you plug the entire <i>parallel charge board </i>balance lead into your charger, your charger will balance out the cells of each battery as if it was simply one large battery. The charger will "see" the first string of cells in parallel as a single "Cell 1," and the second string of cells in parallel as a single "Cell 2," and the third string of cells in parallel as a single "Cell 3," etc., balancing them as if they were individual cells of a larger capacity battery! The result is that in parallel charging, all cells come out properly balanced so long as the cells are not damaged, your charger is functioning properly, you plugged them all in properly, and nothing else is wrong!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Update Notes </span></b><b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">[21 July 2015]</span></b><b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">: </span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Fuse-Protected Parallel Charge Boards: </span></b><br />
<b>This entire article is written for those of you using raw, unprotected parallel charge boards with NO fuses or current protection circuits of any kind. If anyone tells you that you *must* have protection power fuses and polyfuses and things on your board, they are <u>flat out wrong</u>. I don't own such a board. I still use the raw, unprotected boards.</b><b> IF YOU FOLLOW MY PROCEDURES THIS IS PERFECTLY FINE AND SAFE. If you make a mistake, however, a fuse-protected board could prevent a battery mishap, so feel free to buy protected boards. </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>IN THE PAST FEW YEARS, as parallel charging has become more widespread, companies selling parallel charge equipment have added things such as large power fuses to the main leads, and small <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse" target="_blank">polyfuses</a> (self-resetting, automatic fuses), to the balance leads. You can recognize these well-protected and more advanced boards usually by their price tag. They are oftentimes very expensive! (Think: "I could buy another <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html#.Va6Ve_lVhHw" target="_blank">cheap smart charger</a>, or I could buy a parallel charge board" kind of expensive). </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><span style="color: blue;">Here's how a fuse-protected parallel charge board might work/save your butt:</span></b><br />
<ul>
<li>If you are foolish or inattentive and plug a fully-charged battery into an empty battery, for instance, the main fuse will blow. You'll have to replace it. It may be an automotive-type fuse you can buy at an auto parts store. If you make this mistake on an unprotected board, this large current may damage the main leads, blow the large traces in the parallel charge board, and damage the lower-charged battery, causing it to puff up or even catch fire.</li>
<ul>
<li>Note: the main fuse requires a *lot* of current to blow usually, so, you better still follow my guidelines below to keep you and your batteries safe.</li>
</ul>
<li>If the batteries are too far out of balance, or if you plug the balance leads in parallel first, before the main leads, an unsafe surge might go through the balance leads. A polyfused parallel charge board will automatically limit this current flow through the balance leads, preventing any problems. The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse" target="_blank">polyfuses</a> will simply close off (passively, but automatically increasing their resistance) to limit the current flow. If you make this mistake on an unprotected board, this large current may heat up and melt, damage, or blow the balance leads, blow the balance traces in the parallel charge board (I've done this by touching the balance leads to the balance board backwards, in reverse polarity, for instance), or cause a high enough current to the lower-charged battery to damage it. </li>
<li>The same goes for reverse-polarity protection: a protected board may protect against this mistake. An unprotected board.....could cause the same problems as above. You might experience damage to the leads, blowing traces in the board, batteries on fire (if the reverse-polarity contact is prolonged), spark-welding of plugs together, etc. </li>
</ul>
<b><span style="color: blue;">Summary of the above: I like the raw, unprotected boards. They work well for me. They are very inexpensive. They are easy to find, and parallel charge harnesses can be easily hand-made if desired. If you follow my rules below, unprotected boards work fine. If you are prone to errors or want extra protection, consider buying the protected boards with things like main lead fuses, balance lead polyfuses, and reverse-polarity protection.</span></b><br />
<b><i><u><br /></u></i></b>
<b><i><u><span style="font-size: large;">The Do’s
and Don’ts of Parallel Charging/A Couple Things to Know About Parallel Charging:<o:p></o:p></span></u></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></b>
<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">General Rules of Thumb </span></i></b><b><i>(again, these rules work perfectly well for normal, unprotected [without fuses] parallel charge boards, <u>and</u> they work great for fuse-protected boards as well!):</i></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: .25in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<ol>
<li>ONLY USE LIPO/LIFE/LI-ION
BATTERIES <u>WITH THE SAME CELL COUNT</u>, ***NO*** EXCEPTIONS. Ex: 2S with 2S, 3S
with 3S, etc.</li>
<li>ONLY PARALLEL CHARGE BATTERIES OF THE SAME LITHIUM CHEMISTRY TYPE TOGETHER. Ex: LiPo with LiPo, LiFe with LiFe, Li-Ion with Li-Ion, but NOT LiPo with LiFe, LiPo with Li-Ion, etc.</li>
<li>Preferably, use batteries
of similar capacities. Ex: 500~1500 mah batteries together, or 1000~2200 mah
batteries together, but not a 500 mah battery with a 10,000 mah battery.</li>
<li>Use batteries with similar
states of charge (how much they are charged/discharged). Ex: do NOT put a 1/2
full or 3/4 full battery in parallel with an empty battery. All batteries must
be at similar discharge state. SEE PLOTS BELOW FOR MORE INFORMATION.</li>
<li>Use batteries of similar
ages. Ex: it is not as advisable to put a new battery with a 2 year old
battery, but not critical as long as the batteries are similar capacities (mAh
ratings), the same cell count, and at similar discharge states.</li>
<li>Always plug in the *main*
plug first on ALL batteries, *then* plug in all the balance plugs. Also, it is good to *wait several minutes*
AFTER plugging in the main battery leads into the parallel charge board BEFORE
plugging in the balance plugs. This prevents high currents from flowing through
the balance plugs as the batteries equalize based on their varying voltages
upon plugging them in. The main plugs can take more current. This is also the
reason you want to use batteries of similar states of charge/discharge.</li>
<ol>
<li><i><span style="color: blue;"><u>Fuse-protected parallel charge board note</u>: this rule of plugging in the main leads, waiting a while, *then* plugging in the balance leads <u>always works</u> if you also follow all of the rest of my advice, *even with fuse-protected boards.* However, people have told me that some polyfuse-protected parallel charge boards recommend you plug in the *balance* leads first, wait a while, *then* plug in the main leads. Why?</span> Well, it seems logical to me that this is because the balance leads are polyfuse protected. Since the balance leads have polyfuses, they act as automatic current limiters to let the charge between the LiPos more slowly balance out. The main leads require too much current to be easily polyfuse-protected, however, so the balance leads are probably the ones with the current-limiting polyfuses. So...if your particular "protected board" recommends this "reversed plug-in order," that's ok. You may choose to follow their advice, depending on how well-designed their board is, or you can just follow my standard advice and order. <span style="color: blue;">I like to just stick to all of my standard rules here, because I know they always work, for all boards, whether fuse-protected or not, all of the time. </span></i></li>
</ol>
<li>Be VERY CAREFUL to plug in
the main leads and balance leads correctly.
Attempting to plug them in backwards will cause a short circuit and a
spark, and potentially damage your batteries and/or your parallel charge board
or battery leads. (Note: many parallel charge boards require the balance plugs to be in a certain orientation on one side of the board, and in a reverse orientation on the other side of the board, so pay careful attention to the plastic guides on the plugs to ensure you attempt to plug in the balance leads correctly.)</li>
<li>Once all batteries are
plugged in together in parallel, wait several minutes (3~10 minutes or so) for
them to equalize their voltages. The
farther apart the batteries' charge states, the longer you should wait. See plots below.</li>
<li>To determine the charge
rate when charging in parallel (assuming the standard 1C charge rate), ADD all
of the battery capacities together, then use that value as the charge current. Ex:
parallel charging three 3S 1300 mAh (1.3Ah) LiPo's with two 3S 1000 mAh (1Ah)
Lipo's would mean that you should set your charger on the 3 cell LiPo setting
at a charge rate of (3 x 1.3) + (2 x 1) = 5.9A. Therefore, in this scenario, a
charge rate of 5.9A corresponds to a 1C charge rate, and the charger will
consider all of those batteries in parallel to be a *single* 5900 mAh (5.9Ah)
3S Lipo.</li>
<li>It is recommended to use a fire-proof LiPo-Safe Charge bag when charging, such as <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904" target="_blank">this one here</a>. I like to place the <i>entire</i> charge board with all of the attached batteries, if possible, inside of the same charge bag. If the batteries are very large, and this is not possible, feel free to separate the batteries into separate charge bags. Note: charge bags have a special slit in the side, near the velcro, to allow the cables to come out of the bag, so placing the entire charge board, <i>or</i> individual attached batteries, into a charge bag is not a problem.</li>
</ol>
</div>
</div>
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Feel free to Google for more info on "parallel charging" of
LiPo packs. Again: this method is NOT recommended for NiMh or NiCad cells, as
it may cause them to catch fire, though for LiPos it works great!</div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Also see these links as
additional sources:</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
***** <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/charging-how-tos/parallel-charging" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/charging-how-tos/parallel-charging</a>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
***** <a href="http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/parallel-lipo-charging.html" target="_blank">http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/parallel-lipo-charging.html</a>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
**** <a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=932319" target="_blank">http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=932319</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">To purchase parallel
charging equipment:</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I recommend HobbyKing (<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/" target="_blank">www.hobbyking.com</a>), ProgressiveRC (<a href="http://www.progressiverc.com/" target="_blank">http://www.progressiverc.com/</a>), or BuddyRC (<a href="http://www.buddyrc.com/" target="_blank">www.buddyrc.com</a>).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>HobbyKing Parallel Charge
Boards/Squid Harnesses:</b><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14856&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14856&aff=281904</a><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24230&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24230&aff=281904</a><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14852&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14852&aff=281904</a><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10621&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10621&aff=281904</a><br />
<b>- </b>etc.....You get the idea. Main link to their charging cables is
here: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=410" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=410</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>ProgressiveRC Parallel
Charging Equipment:</b><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.progressiverc.com/adapter-cables-and-boards/parallel-boards" target="_blank">http://www.progressiverc.com/adapter-cables-and-boards/parallel-boards</a><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.progressiverc.com/adapter-cables-and-boards/charge-cables/parallel-charge" target="_blank">http://www.progressiverc.com/adapter-cables-and-boards/charge-cables/parallel-charge</a><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.progressiverc.com/adapter-cables-and-boards/balance-cables" target="_blank">http://www.progressiverc.com/adapter-cables-and-boards/balance-cables</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>BuddyRC Parallel Charging Equipment:</b><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.buddyrc.com/paraboard-parallel-charge-board.html" target="_blank">http://www.buddyrc.com/paraboard-parallel-charge-board.html</a><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.buddyrc.com/accessory/parallel-charge-cables.html" target="_blank">http://www.buddyrc.com/accessory/parallel-charge-cables.html</a><br />
<b>- </b><a href="http://www.buddyrc.com/accessory/balance-cables.html?limit=all" target="_blank">http://www.buddyrc.com/accessory/balance-cables.html?limit=all</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-outline-level: 1; text-align: center;">
<b>Parallel charging all these batteries at once with only 3 chargers!</b><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">[photo source: <a href="http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/parallel-lipo-charging.html" target="_blank">http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/parallel-lipo-charging.html</a>]</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/parallel-lipo-charging.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE_Krohxt1ZvlvXZiW8sgAZWVGTMFgh_IDCqVcwU22kAO9WuE9J8JuYJ3Ok2am_TOGF9hYzfp73qMoMFvKmqTVWYgWlahYK-uEWhEdktM6XM3nTkpYBDwgL9wcLizOUpIFkhdS8B_eVG8X/s400/image003.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Useful Plots:</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
PLOT IS FOR <u>LIPO</u>
BATTERIES ONLY, </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And is only an
***approximation***</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 6.0pt;">(Source: </span><a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6660057&postcount=7" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 6.0pt;">http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6660057&postcount=7</span></a><span style="font-size: 6.0pt;">)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 6.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsPuAFuk8fAjhzNx-mSJCTn74N_iWzmJ3WnO2riDXzvrSE28zSvWq_d6uSRPEcPOsU37mVg5k1ptUhtsuH1u87bgJl60kOOJUaN6E0x-nAL83I_75ijIowI-7F3rnUb0UUkDYq9_YsFtD/s1600/image006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="566" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsPuAFuk8fAjhzNx-mSJCTn74N_iWzmJ3WnO2riDXzvrSE28zSvWq_d6uSRPEcPOsU37mVg5k1ptUhtsuH1u87bgJl60kOOJUaN6E0x-nAL83I_75ijIowI-7F3rnUb0UUkDYq9_YsFtD/s640/image006.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<b><span style="background: yellow; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-size: large;">Parallel Charging Note: </span><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<span style="background: yellow; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">AS LONG AS THE BATTERIES ARE WITHIN ~25%
(OR LESS) STATE OF CHARGE OF EACH OTHER, THEY MAY BE PARALLEL-CHARGED
TOGETHER. If they are more than ~25%
apart, the higher-charged battery will push a current into the lower-charged
battery equal to or greater than a 1~2C charge current, which is bad.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">(To
know for sure how much current the higher-charged battery is pushing into the
lower-charged battery, and to see when they are nearly equalized, I like to
hook up a power meter in between the parallel charge board and the *lowest-charged*
battery, then I plug the remaining batteries into the parallel charge board, one
at a time, beginning with the one that is least-charged and plugging in the one
that is most-charged last.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/v9DQnJ0H3_g/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/v9DQnJ0H3_g?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Also,
after plugging in all main battery leads in parallel to each other, it is best
to let the batteries’ voltage equalize for a few minutes before plugging in the
balance leads in parallel and beginning the charge. The <u>chart below</u> is just a <b><u>rough
estimate</u></b> of how much time is recommended to let the batteries equalize
their voltages prior to plugging in their balance leads and starting the
charger. Note: <b>State of charge range
= most charged battery State of Charge – least charged battery state of charge</b>. Ex: If
the most full battery is at 50% and the least full battery is at 30%, the <u>state
of charge range</u> is 50% - 30% = <u>20</u>%. </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfLRm1Inc_G8H5Y86aFUyilgonXi-M7wz9m__0VEePU0RTcs7edZE8ItcI0Lp82hBzcehC5WQo-xgslnMV6lR6x8Fw7gZhN4qfyTWTK14x9KixMX1QPiAzTcfCPw9gsnjyohTCYW0RmtQ/s1600/image007.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfLRm1Inc_G8H5Y86aFUyilgonXi-M7wz9m__0VEePU0RTcs7edZE8ItcI0Lp82hBzcehC5WQo-xgslnMV6lR6x8Fw7gZhN4qfyTWTK14x9KixMX1QPiAzTcfCPw9gsnjyohTCYW0RmtQ/s400/image007.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">For additional general LiPo information:</span><o:p></o:p></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
See my extensive article I wrote, titled “The Details of
Electric Radio Controlled Aircraft,” under the “Battery” section of the
document (approximately pgs. 22-35), found at my other website here: <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/</a>.</div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-41694894013891507502013-01-13T19:55:00.001-08:002013-07-13T20:40:36.845-07:00Buying Parts for the FliteTest NutBall Swappable - a little at a time - Stage #1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZvkyfYGMtK5orxel7Tsl2tqKmr8DK6JRpOQOCy2ESfbe_JcPunDJyz6JMLDVXPBo7EfQ9aFmy3V4Y5dmfJie4FdLzRy51af_A8URlCoWhu5YYNyw0qUa54lT4Shet2owMM-FkFMtiDe2/s1600/MyNutball.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkZvkyfYGMtK5orxel7Tsl2tqKmr8DK6JRpOQOCy2ESfbe_JcPunDJyz6JMLDVXPBo7EfQ9aFmy3V4Y5dmfJie4FdLzRy51af_A8URlCoWhu5YYNyw0qUa54lT4Shet2owMM-FkFMtiDe2/s320/MyNutball.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
<u>Related Articles:</u><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/this-is-what-my-nutball-can-do.html" target="_blank">This is What My NutBall Can Do!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html" target="_blank">Buying Parts for the FliteTest NutBall Swappable - All at Once</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-flitetest-nutball-swappable.html" target="_blank">Building the Flite Test NutBall Swappable</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/03/getting-into-scratch-building.html" target="_blank">Getting into Scratch Building - 20+ Planes with ONE Motor & ONE Power Pod!</a></li>
</ul>
<br />
----------------------------------------------------<br />
I have a friend who wants to know which parts to purchase for the FliteTest Nutball (<a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/nutball_scratch_build" target="_blank">http://flitetest.com/articles/nutball_scratch_build</a>), as his <b>very first plane</b>. He owns absolutely no RC vehicles or components whatsoever, so this truly is his "beginner plane setup." Several months ago I started helping him build it. However, due to budget constraints, he has never gone through with the build to finish it up. <i>So, I am going to split up the electronics/extra components he needs into several low-cost (~$30 each) "stages" in order to see if he can do it this way</i>---a little at a time. Let's see how this goes....<br />
<br />
This is the $35 (-ish) <b>Stage #1 (of approximately 4 total)</b>: I'll try to put the parts <i>roughly</i> into a recommended purchase order, according to what is needed first to complete the plane. <br />
<br />
<b>What he already has:</b><br />
<ol>
<li>two <a href="http://www.dollartree.com/school-office-supplies/Desk-Supplies/Paper-Stationery/Readi-Board-Foam-Boards/291c434c427p16450/index.pro?method=search" target="_blank">$1 sheets of 20"x30" foamboard from the Dollar Tree</a>.</li>
<li>1/8" plywood sheet (maybe 8"x10") from the Hobby Lobby balsa sheet rack in the back of the store ($1.79 last I checked I believe)</li>
<li>$1 roll of cheapo clear packing tape from the Dollar Tree</li>
<li>$1~$2 pack of 100 shish-ka-bob (bamboo) skewers from Walmart (in the BBQ section of the Garden Center) or wherever</li>
<li>Jumbo popsickle (craft) sticks at Walmart - pack of like 100 for a couple bucks - to be used to make the 2 control horns</li>
</ol>
<div>
<b>Ok: Stage #1 - buy this week</b></div>
<div>
<ol>
<li><b>"Music Wire" (0.047 in. [1.19 mm] diam. From local hobbyshop</b>) (sizes as small as 0.032 in. [0.81 mm] also work, but the 0.047 in. is better). Cost: $2.29 for a pack of 4 long (36" maybe) rods. - will be used for the two control rods.</li>
<li>Scotch Strapping tape (has fiberglass strands running down it) from Walmart or wherever, ~$3</li>
<li>HobbyKing order:</li>
<ol>
<li>motor: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12916&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12916&aff=281904</a>, $8</li>
<li>HXT900 9g servos x 3 (1 for a spare), $2.70 each: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904</a> </li>
<li>XT60 connectors x 1 pack, ~$3.50, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904</a></li>
<li>Shipping: ~$6</li>
<li>TOTAL PRICE WITH SHIPPING: ~$26.</li>
</ol>
<li><b style="background-color: yellow;">Stage 1 total: ~$31.50</b></li>
</ol>
</div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-9874233288076359792013-01-12T09:54:00.002-08:002013-02-02T20:30:41.105-08:00Bonus Bomb Drop<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmmYW5cmO-k" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9JM6NpXxlKseZYhQ7VxxSb0e7X8cIkjF5gbV0pY0XyZYwFHnpXMprqRHeRmk4_PFiasK9n7WFcI_YgWgkNKJakPW3vMJ2yzyl1hzO42rDhiq-GHdKVe7ON0nW4Y_gzfxXkpbCEaj5mBeu/s320/Flite+Test+Bomb+Drop+pic.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
-Building a Bomb Drop can be *very* simple, fun, and cheap, but you'll need a few extra parts in your HobbyKing order. Here's the <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmmYW5cmO-k" target="_blank">Bomb Drop Video by Josh and Josh of Flite Test</a>. And here's a picture of it to the right. What you will need to purchase is very simple:<br />
<br />
1) <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904" target="_blank">Extra HXT900 Servo</a><br />
2) <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9685&aff=281904" target="_blank">Servo Extensions</a> (to get the bomb drop servo wire to be long enough to reach the receiver)<br />
3) <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9691&aff=281904" target="_blank">Servo Wire Splitter (Y-harness)</a>. Note: If you have a 5 or more Channel Radio, all you need are items 1 and 2, but if you have only a 4 Channel Radio (like what comes with the <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16542&aff=281904" target="_blank">Bixler V1.1</a>), then you will also need this item. In the case of using your bomb drop on a 4-channel radio, the splitter will be used to send the rudder signal to both your rudder servo, as well as your bomb drop servo. That way, you activate your bomb drop by moving the rudder. This is ok since you don't need to use the rudder much during flight anyway, but it's still available if you need it, once you drop your bomb. <br />
<br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt;">(a continuation of my main website here: </span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup">https://sites.go</a><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup">og</a><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup" target="_blank">le.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup</a> --> Recently moved to here: <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html</a></span><span style="font-size: 16pt;">). </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Here’s my
response to the below info (my responses are in <b>bold</b>).</span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
This is what I figure would work:<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24474&aff=281904" target="_blank">Bixler 2 ARF: $69.99</a>
#9310000060 – some design improvement over <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16542&aff=281904" target="_blank">Bixler V1.1</a> but not complete
system. – </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b style="background-color: white;">True. that's why I'd just stick with the Bixler 1.1 unless you'd like to do a radio upgrade. It's got everything you need and is an excellent plane as well. </b></div>
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24968&aff=281904" target="_blank">Turnigy 4x FHSS 2.4 ghz TX and RX: $27.04</a> #9255000013 – more
compatible with other receivers than HobbyKing and low-price?</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b style="background-color: white;">Great price, yes, but not more compatible with receivers that I can tell. Looks like a fine radio; receivers cost $9 each for more. The Tx/Rx that the Bixler 1.1 comes with is <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8338&aff=281904" target="_blank">this one</a> for only $23 and also has <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12901&aff=281904" target="_blank">$9 receivers</a></b><b style="background-color: white;">, but does not have mixing. If you choose to go with the Bixler 1.1, it's radio is fine for starting, but the Turnigy one you found above is *definitely* an upgrade from it as it has delta mixing too, which the other does not. </b></div>
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<b style="background-color: white;">1) However, for $27 this radio is even better, since its got 2 extra channels (6 instead of 4), servo mixing, and servo reversing: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16239&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16239&aff=281904</a>. Fun fact: this $27 radio in many ways is better than my $180 I bought as a kid in 1996. PS. Considering 3~4% annual inflation, that puts my $180 at something like $300+ today. Sad huh?</b></div>
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<b style="background-color: white;">If you do want to look at other radios I'd recommend, check out these too:</b></div>
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<b style="background-color: white;">2) <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=28494&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=28494&aff=281904</a> <--yet another upgrade still, as it is a computer radio! This $65 radio is also "Spektrum" receiver compatible, which means basically it's compatible with stuff from local hobby shops even! Spektrum receivers are the most popular in the world, and this is a radio I've had my eye on for a while. An excellent value. Note: hobby-king <i>Spektrum-compatible</i> (ie: not genuine Spektrum brand) receivers are only $6!!!: </b><b><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11965&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11965&aff=281904</a></b></div>
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<b style="background-color: white;">3) An alternative to the one above would be this for $50: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=31544&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=31544&aff=281904 </a> plus this Spektrum-compatible module for $30: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24656&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24656&aff=281904</a>. This system is great because it's the *only* completely-open-source-code radio that I know of, and is fully customizable. However, that also means it's got the potential to be more complicated to get to work for you. When I buy my next radio (which in some ways will be an upgrade from my $280 radio <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTTM1&P=ML" target="_blank">here</a>), I am thinking I will for sure buy one of the last 2 radios (option 2 or 3) above. </b></div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8932&aff=281904" target="_blank">Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack (2): $7.89ea #T2200.3S.20</a> <b style="background-color: white;">great choice.</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=6478&aff=281904" target="_blank">IMAX B6-AC Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (GENUINE): $39.99 #B6AC</a> - with just 2 batteries, I figure I
don’t need the parallel adapter yet. Is
there a cheaper way to charge batteries before investing in this. Or is this critical? </div>
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<b style="background-color: white;">From everything I can tell in my research, the charger I have in the main document (<o:p></o:p><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup</a>, item 2), is still a better charger than the one above, and will come cheaper than HobbyKing's IMAX once you add in shipping. Therefore, if you're going to go with a nicer charger and don't want to spend more than $45 or so, I still recommend the one from my main document. To answer your question though, YES, there is a cheaper way to charge batteries than this. It consists of using the supplied, cheap $5 charger that comes with the Bixler V1.1 (or Dynam Hawk Sky). See for example this one: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7637&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7637&aff=281904</a>. However, as chargers usually do *not* come with power supplies, you'll have to either use your car battery to charge using the cheap Bixler charger, or you'll have to buy a power supply with the following specs: 12V 1.5A or more, 5.5x2.1mm plug (positive on the inside). <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-100V-240V-Converter-Adapter-DC-12V-1-5A-Power-Supply-US-5-5mm-x-2-1mm-1500mA-/221172448393?pt=US_Server_Power_Supplies&hash=item337ee7bc89" target="_blank">Here is a good power supply with those specs from ebay</a>. So, why use a better charger? 1) the cheap charger can ONLY charge 2 or 3 cell LiPo batteries. If you decide you want rechargeable batteries for your radio, for example, the Lithium-iron [LiFe] pack in item 12 of my <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup" target="_blank">main document</a>, or NiMh AA rechargeable batteries from your local store, you're out of luck--in that case, you really should get the $45 charger. 2) the cheap charger will take between 2.5~3.5 hrs to charge a *single* one of your 2200 mAh 3S batteries, listed above. The nicer 50W charger alone can charge 1 battery in as little as 40 min (but I still recommend doing the standard 60~70 min charge to prolong battery life), or with the parallel board, can charge two in ~45~50 min, or even up to six in ~3.5 hrs. 3) sometimes cheaper chargers have a tendency to slightly overcharge a Lithium-Polymer battery. A LiPo battery should be charged to 4.20 V/cell. Some cheap $5 chargers have been known to charge up to 4.25 V/cell or so. This will cut the longevity of your battery down to something like 1/2 of its normal lifespan. 4) The nicer charger, with the right adapter, can charge nearly *any* rechargeable battery in your entire house, including NiCad, NiMH, LiPo, LiFe, Li-Ion, and Pb chemistries. </b></div>
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<b style="background-color: white;">-ok, so having said all that, the $5 chargers usually work just fine and can oftentimes be used for months or years without a problem. Now you know a little bit more about the tradeoffs though. </b></div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904" target="_blank">HXT900 9g servo: $2.69 #HXT900 </a>– a spare</div>
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<b style="background-color: white;"> Absolutely! As a matter of fact, if you want to build a NutBall (my round plane) or any other scratchbuilt plane anytime soon, get at least 3 of these (2 for the Nutball + 1 spare). </b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=13430&aff=281904" target="_blank">HobbyKing 20A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller: $9.99#HKz20A </a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><b>This looks like a good speed controller, and it has good reviews, but for only a couple bucks more you can get a much better one. The Turnigy Plush 30A ESC is slightly higher quality and has a higher current rating to keep your system running cooler: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=2164&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=2164&aff=281904</a>. I really like the Turnigy Plush series, and as a bonus, you can make your Turnigy Plush play music, like mine, when you plug in the battery!</b></span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904" target="_blank">Lithium Polymer Charge Pack: $2.73 #LPGUARD25x33</a> <b style="background-color: white;">Definitely a must-have!</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7941&aff=281904" target="_blank">TGS Sport 7x5E Precision propeller: $1.64 #TGS7x5E</a> –a spare.<br />
<b style="background-color: white;">Great choice, but will only work for the Bixler 2. The Bixler 1.1 requires a smaller prop or you could burn something up due to too much heat. (if you decide on the Bixler 1.1, get a 6x4 prop, like this: <o:p></o:p><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9873&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9873&aff=281904</a> or this: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=22423&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=22423&aff=281904</a>.</b></div>
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You suggested a bunch of different XT60 & JST adapters
and such but I didn’t see where they would be needed. Aren’t the battery/charger/receiver all
plug-compatible?<br />
<b style="background-color: white;"> ...<i>Sort-of</i>.....If you get the Dynam Hawk Sky, last I checked you will need to buy the XT60's for sure, *and* the JST connectors (to build adapters). My buddy's Hawk Sky came with JST connectors, but your spare Turnigy batteries are XT60. If you get the Bixler 1.1 RTF ["Ready to Fly"] you should be good as-is, and (I think) not need any extra connectors. If you get the Bixler 2 ARF ["Almost Ready To Fly"], however, you will need the XT60's to solder onto your new ESC you have to buy separate. </b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />
<b>Don't forget this important item:</b><br />
<b>-Velcro (click directly on the link in Item 5 in my updated version [13 Jan 2013] of the Beginner Airplane Setup document): <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup</a>. Note that I have made substantial changes (basically just additions and comments) to that document, so after doing your order feel free to browse through it again.</b><br />
<br />
<b>-Also, you mentioned you wanted to try that foam glue. Here it is: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=17535&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=17535&aff=281904</a></b><br />
<br />
<b>-Lastly, I have added a link above to a spare $9 receiver for the radio that comes with the <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16542&aff=281904" target="_blank">Bixler v1.1 RTF</a>. Here is that link again: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12901&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=12901&aff=281904</a>. At the moment, they are backordered, I recommend that you put backordered items in a separate order if you don't want to potentially have to wait months. </b><br />
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<b><span style="background-color: yellow;">I'm glad to see you're doing your research. :)</span><span style="background-color: white;"> Lastly, looking at your prices below, I want you to know how good of a deal this is. Even if HobbyKing were to charge you $150 for shipping, you'd *still* be getting a better deal than buying at many other shops, so no complaining when they charge a pretty penny for shipping :). The stuff you just listed would cost closer to $400 at many other places, and could have cost you the equivalent of $800~$1000 back in 1996 when I started RC (assuming, of course, that this type of technology even existed--which it didn't by the way). ---this electric stuff and other technologies used in your equipment above, from the foam to the radio, the battery and the motor, have come around recently, since 2000~2008 or so. (read my brief RC history portion of the document here for a <i>little</i> more info if you want to know: </span><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/doc-2" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/doc-2</a>)</b></div>
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Sum:<o:p></o:p></div>
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69.99<o:p></o:p></div>
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27.04<o:p></o:p></div>
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7.89<o:p></o:p></div>
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7.89<o:p></o:p></div>
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39.99<o:p></o:p></div>
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2.69<o:p></o:p></div>
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9.99<o:p></o:p></div>
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2.73<o:p></o:p></div>
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1.64=<o:p></o:p></div>
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$165.85 +S&H<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">PLEASE FEEL FREE TO LEAVE QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS BELOW.</span><br />
<br /></div>
</div>
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-9693969137889171522013-01-08T08:44:00.000-08:002014-08-03T20:33:30.612-07:00Beginner RC Airplane Setup<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Subscribe to and share this blog by clicking the links to the right --></span></div>
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<u>Related Articles:</u></div>
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<li style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2014/08/recommended-soldering-kit.html" target="_blank">Recommended Soldering Kit & Tutorials (for Arduino, Electronics, & Radio Control)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/chosen-beginner-setups.html" target="_blank">Beginner RC Airplane Setup - Person 1 - Response 1</a></li>
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<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/this-is-what-my-nutball-can-do.html" target="_blank">This is What My NutBall Can Do!</a></li>
<li><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/buying-parts-for-flitetest-nutball_31.html" target="_blank">Buying Parts for the FliteTest NutBall Swappable - All at Once</a></li>
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</ul>
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-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</div>
<br />
(This page was recently moved to its current location from my original main website here:<br />
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/page2-beginner-airplane-setup</a><span style="font-size: x-small;">)</span></div>
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</h1>
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<span style="color: windowtext; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 16pt;">Beginner Airplane Setup and Links:<o:p></o:p></span></h1>
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<span style="font-size: 16pt;">“A Couple of Recommended Beginner Airplanes…”<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
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<b><span style="background-color: lime; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial; font-size: 10pt;">…ASSUMING YOU HAVE AN EXPERIENCED RC MENTOR TO HELP YOU ALONG THE WAY</span></b><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<b>By Gabriel Staples, </b><a href="mailto:rcflyyer@gmail.com" style="color: purple;"><b>rcflyyer@gmail.com</b></a></div>
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<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru/</a> and <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/</a></div>
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<b>Written: 26 Nov. 2011, Last Revised: 6 Oct. 2013 (added <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=39677&aff=281904" style="background-color: #fff2cc;" target="_blank">Bixler 2 RTF Link</a>)<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Note: If any links in this document are broken, please notify me by commenting below this article. All questions or comments are welcome.<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i>My #1 Choice for a Beginner: The <span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> <span class="SpellE">Bixler</span> (</i></b><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16542&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><b><i>V1.1</i></b></a><b><i>, or </i></b><b><i><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=39677&aff=281904" target="_blank">2</a></i></b><b><i>) or the <span class="SpellE">Dynam</span> </i></b><a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/60a-dy8925-hawksky-rtf-24g.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><b><i>Hawk Sky</i></b></a><i><o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<span style="background-color: #fff2cc;">(Update 6 Oct. 2013): My #1 Choice is now the <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=39677&aff=281904" target="_blank">HobbyKing Bixler 2 RTF</a>, as it just came out in a Ready-To-Fly version within the past couple months. Also, after having flown the Dynam Hawk Sky again recently, I regretfully must say that its power is nothing compared to the Bixler V1.1 or 2, so I must recommend the Bixler far above the Hawk Sky at this point, though the Hawk Sky is still a good choice. The Bixler V1.1, for example, has so much power that a skilled pilot can easily do belly-TAKEOFFS on grass, simply by sliding along its belly until it has enough airspeed to lift off. The Hawk Sky, on the other hand, had such a dramatically lower amount of power when I flew it that it couldn't even budge when given full throttle sitting on the grass. Overall, I haven't ever seen a better, more economical and functional, Ready-to-Fly trainer than the HobbyKing Bixler 2 RTF. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fff2cc;">-Note: if you want more SPEED, buy the <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16542&aff=281904" target="_blank">Bixler V1.1 RTF</a> instead, as it uses a higher-Kv motor and smaller prop. If you want more THRUST AND EFFICIENCY (longer flight time), buy the <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=39677&aff=281904" target="_blank">Bixler V2 RTF</a>, as it has a lower-Kv motor and larger prop. Also, the Bixler V2 RTF comes with a better Transmitter, since it is 6-channels instead of only 4.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 19px;">Preface:</span></h2>
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There are a thousand different opinions out there about which "beginner airplane" is the best. The truth is, there is no one single answer. There is no such thing as "the best" beginner airplane. However, this is an attempt to characterize a beginner airplane and explain what kinds of things need to be considered, and what parts/equipment may be desired. Many links are provided to help the absolute novice think about what they might want, and see some of the more intricate parts required for a more enjoyable & successful RC experience.</div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">What makes a good beginner plane? <o:p></o:p></span></h2>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">Here are some good characteristics to look for:<o:p></o:p></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>prop & motor high and in the back (avoid breaking it in nose-first, right-side-up crashes), or having a prop-saver for nose-mounted motors (propeller is held on with a rubber O-ring so that it bends/flexes back when one of the propeller blades hits the ground or is pushed back)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>made of tough, durable EPO (Expanded Polyolefin) or EPP (Expanded Polypropylene) foam (crash resistant and easy to repair with low temp. hot glue gun, or Shoe Goo/Goop/E-6000)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>easily upgradeable to higher power setup and larger battery/longer flight time</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>inexpensive: ≤ $100~$200 for a plane with *all* necessary electronics, including brushless motor, propeller, Electronic Speed Controller (ESC), <span class="SpellE">LiPo</span> battery, cheap balancing charger, <i>and</i> Radio Transmitter (<span class="SpellE">Tx</span>) and Receiver (Rx) all in one box!</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>In other words, look for an RTF (“Ready to Fly”) plane. Nope, sorry, it doesn’t actually come ready to fly, but it should come with all of those electronics just mentioned above (read its description carefully though to make sure it actually does) and it can be put together in only 1-3 hrs.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span class="GramE">easy</span> to put together. Can be ready to fly in just a couple hrs.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>4-channel control (not just 3-channel). Has throttle, rudder, elevator, *and* ailerons.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span class="GramE">natural</span> roll stability due to a main wing with dihedral (V-shaped wing when viewed from the front) or polyhedral (tips curved up, acting like a dihedral wing). See page 4 for pictures. Both of these main wing types will cause the plane to naturally right itself/roll level if banked.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span><span class="GramE">flat-bottomed</span> airfoil (provides the best lift possible, with gentle stall characteristics, excellent glide ratio, and the ability to fly very slowly). Do NOT get a plane with a symmetric airfoil (curved on the top and bottom of main wing when viewed from the side)—this plane will be aerobatic and not able to fly as slowly.</div>
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Necessary Airplane Supplies:</h2>
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1)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span><span class="SpellE">Dynam</span> Hawk Sky, 4 Ch powered glider, $110 <a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/60a-dy8925-hawksky-rtf-24g.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.nitroplanes.com/60a-dy8925-hawksky-rtf-24g.html</a> OR <span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> <span class="SpellE">Bixler</span> v1.1 RTF [“Ready to Fly”], *Mode 2* powered glider, $103 <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16542&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16542&aff=281904</a> (personally, I recommend the <span class="SpellE">Bixler</span> v1.1 more, though both are great planes). Note: the <span class="SpellE">Bixler</span>v1.1 has many improved features over the original <span class="SpellE">Bixler</span>.</div>
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Pictured Above: <span class="SpellE">Dynam</span> Hawk Sky (left), and <span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> <span class="SpellE">Bixler</span> v1.1 (right)</div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->a.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]--><span dir="LTR"></span>Hawk Sky Videos:</div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span>i.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]--><span dir="LTR"></span>5 Advantages of the HAWK
SKY! - <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2ZFVJg9-iE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2ZFVJg9-iE</a>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->b.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]--><span dir="LTR"></span>Bixler Videos:</div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span>i.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]--><span dir="LTR"></span>Flite Test: The Bixler –
REVIEW - <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsymTsBPjxI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsymTsBPjxI</a>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span>ii.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]--><span dir="LTR"></span>Flite Test: Bixler 2 –
REVIEW - <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VecIXvf5qv8" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VecIXvf5qv8</a>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span>iii.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]--><span dir="LTR"></span>Bixler 2: The Review – by
dhdsracer - <a href="http://flitetest.com/articles/Bixler_2_The_Review" target="_blank">http://flitetest.com/articles/Bixler_2_The_Review</a>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span>iv.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span><!--[endif]--><span dir="LTR"></span>Flite Test: Who is Josh
Bixler - <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUDpouw1jWs" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUDpouw1jWs</a></div>
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2)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Charger -- if you want an upgraded charger, I'd highly recommend the ones in 2.a. below. However, if you want to go the economical route, just use the included basic charger that comes with the Bixler v1.1 or Dynam Hawk Sky. If you buy the Bixler v1.1 (my prefered choice), however, you'll need to <u>also</u> <i>separately</i> purchase the power supply for it below in 2.b. </div>
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a.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Good universal charger, Thunder AC6 or AC680, $45~$60 <i>with shipping</i> . I’d recommend the AC680 more. Read my "how-to" post here to learn how to install and use the computer data-logging software that is compatible with these chargers: <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/02/thunder-ac680-computer-data-logging.html" target="_blank">Thunder AC680/AC6 Charger & Computer Data-logging Software</a>. Find these chargers here: <a href="http://www.xheli.com/thunder.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.xheli.com/thunder.html</a>. They are also available from the same company at one of their alternate websites here: <a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/thch.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.nitroplanes.com/thch.html</a>, here: <a href="http://www.hobbypartz.com/thunder.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbypartz.com/thunder.html</a>, or here: <a href="http://www.nitrorcx.com/thch.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.nitrorcx.com/thch.html</a>. If I am not mistaken, hobbypartz.com will have cheaper shipping than the others. If these chargers are completely out of stock, or if you’d like some other options, or even just want to know more about chargers, let me know by commenting below this document and I’ll answer your questions, explain more about chargers and/or point you to a good alternative. “Thunder AC6 Battery Charger Basics” informational video here: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zvwAZc3Gpc&feature=related" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zvwAZc3Gpc&feature=related</a>. You may also check out <span class="SpellE">HobbyKing’s</span> entire line of chargers here: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__216__408__Chargers_Accessories-Battery_Chargers.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__216__408__Chargers_Accessories-Battery_Chargers.html</a>. Please note, however, that most chargers do *not* come with an included power supply, so you’ll need to buy one separately in most cases. Look out for that. The AC6 or AC680 above are both exceptions to this rule, as they come with built-in AC/DC power supplies.</div>
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b.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span><span class="SpellE">Bixler</span> v1.1 AC/DC Power Supply: 12V 1.5A or more, 5.5 x 2.1mm plug (positive on the inside), $6: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-100V-240V-Converter-Adapter-DC-12V-1-5A-Power-Supply-US-5-5mm-x-2-1mm-1500mA-/221172448393?pt=US_Server_Power_Supplies&hash=item337ee7bc89" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-100V-240V-Converter-Adapter-DC-12V-1-5A-Power-Supply-US-5-5mm-x-2-1mm-1500mA-/221172448393?pt=US_Server_Power_Supplies&hash=item337ee7bc89</a>. Though (last I checked) the <span class="SpellE">Dynam</span> Hawk Sky’s included basic charger does come with a power supply, the <span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> <span class="SpellE">Bixler</span> v1.1 RTF’s included basic charger (similar to this one: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7637&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7637&aff=281904</a>) does *not* have an included power supply. Therefore, they expect you to use your car’s 12V battery or a separate power supply, such as the one above. If the one above on <span class="SpellE">ebay</span> is sold out, search around to find an alternate that has those specifications above.</div>
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3)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span><span class="SpellE">Lipo</span> Safe Charge Bag, $7 <a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/83p-lipo-guard-25x33cm-bag.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.nitroplanes.com/83p-lipo-guard-25x33cm-bag.html</a> OR $3 <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=4364&aff=281904</a></div>
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4)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Spare batteries (get 1~3 <i>or more</i> of these): <span class="SpellE">Turnigy</span> 1800 <span class="SpellE">mah</span> 3S 20C <span class="SpellE">LiPo</span>, $10 each: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9274&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9274&aff=281904</a>, OR <span class="SpellE">Turnigy</span>2200mAh 3S 20C, $8 each: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8932&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8932&aff=281904</a>. (Note: either of the two batteries above should get you ~20 minutes of flight time).</div>
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5)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Adhesive Velcro, $2.50~$5.00 (get 1 or 2 meters of it): <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9374&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9374&aff=281904</a>. <--Despite its super low price, this is the BEST adhesive Velcro I have *ever* used! It is extremely useful for securing your batteries to your plane, or even electronics, speed controllers, receivers, etc. It can even be used for securing a removable home-made “bomb” drop to your plane (see <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/bonus-bomb-drop.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/bonus-bomb-drop.html</a> for ideas on making a bomb drop). This Velcro is <i>stronger</i> and <i>stickier</i> than anything I’ve seen in stores, and still sticks well in cold weather. I’ve been flying all winter long and my buddy’s Velcro he bought for $15 or so locally was literally falling off of his plane in the 30°F snowy weather, while my $2.50 <span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> Velcro held on like a champ! I gave him some of mine and he was impressed.</div>
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6)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>***Dual temperature*** Hot Glue gun and glue, ~$15 (with glue sticks) from <span class="SpellE">Walmart</span>. “Dual temperature” means that the glue gun MUST have dual heat settings, high/low so that you can use low setting when you need to and not melt the foam plane, yet you still have high to help it heat up faster and get more sticky on surfaces that can handle a little more heat (hotter = more sticky). You can also buy a good one of these glue guns from Amazon here: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Technologies-0443-Two-Temp-Cordless/dp/B001689XCQ" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Technologies-0443-Two-Temp-Cordless/dp/B001689XCQ</a> <-- Note: I own this <i>exact</i> glue gun and it works well. It works fantastic for RC planes and has a nice, precision tip and hasn’t broken on me with regular use in the past 4 years I’ve had it. If the glue ever gets jammed (has happened a few times after being on high heat for very long periods of time), pull the glue stick out, pull off the melted portion that may be getting stuck in the gun, re-insert glue stick, and continue use. I use the “high” heat setting to heat it up quickly, then I switch to “low” once it’s hot so I don’t melt the foam. So far that I have found, the quality can’t be beat for its price, though better dual temperature glue guns do exist.</div>
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7)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Clear Packing Tape at <span class="SpellE">Walmart</span> or wherever else you choose to buy it. – <span class="GramE">good</span> for repairs where the full stickiness and strength of strapping tape is not needed.</div>
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8)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Scotch strapping tape at <span class="SpellE">Walmart</span> or wherever else you choose (strapping tape has fiberglass strands running down it), or on Amazon <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NBR7BU" target="_blank">here (10 yards for $4.42)</a> or <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Strapping-Tape-Yards-8950-30/dp/B002VPDKY0" target="_blank">here (30 yards for $7.83)</a> < – use this tape to increase wing strength by running a single strip of it down the full length of the wings on the top <i>and</i> bottom. Also, I highly recommend taping the wings on or they may fall off during flight (I’ve seen it happen while the plane was over 100 ft. high; luckily these planes are made out of super durable EPO foam and the repair was <1 hr.).</div>
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9)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>5 or 6 min. Epoxy “glue”, $6 (optional; other type of glue are out there, and for foam planes I prefer hot glue or Goop/Shoe Goo/E-6000 over epoxy, though epoxy is good). <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8684&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8684&aff=281904</a> or <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT44&P=ML" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT44&P=ML</a>.</div>
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10)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Popsicle sticks and wax paper at <span class="SpellE">Walmart</span> or wherever (for mixing epoxy)</div>
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11)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Goop/Shoe Goo/E-6000 (manufacturer’s website here: <a href="http://eclecticproducts.com/retail_products.htm" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://eclecticproducts.com/retail_products.htm</a>), ~$5, available just about anywhere, including Lowes, Home Depot, <span class="SpellE">Walmart</span>, etc. All three of these adhesives are very similar, and work *excellent* on EPO or EPP foam, on areas where more strength is needed than what hot glue can provide. <i>These glues are very strong</i>. <u>Beware, however, that they do “melt” or dissolve polystyrenes such as EPS (Expanded Polystyrene, <span class="SpellE">ie</span>: “Styrofoam”) and <span class="SpellE">Depron</span> (which is Extruded Polystyrene). <o:p></o:p></u></div>
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12)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Extra Servo or two, 9 g, $3 each, (in case one that comes with the Bixler v1.1 or Hawk Sky breaks) <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=662&aff=281904</a>. Note: 1 of these servos can also be used to make a bomb drop! –see here: <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/bonus-bomb-drop.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/bonus-bomb-drop.html</a>.</div>
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13)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>A nice Transmitter (AKA “<span class="SpellE">Tx</span>,” or Radio) battery pack, $7: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=17955&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=17955&aff=281904</a> Although <i>this <span class="SpellE">LiFe</span> [Lithium-Iron] battery pack is the best choice when it fits inside your transmitter</i>, it doesn't fit into the transmitter that comes with the Bixler v1.1 RTF airplane. However, it should fit into the Dynam transmitter, but may require a slight plug modification. If you'd like to use AA cells instead [or for the Bixler v1.1, 8 AA-sized batteries are mandatory], you may buy 8 AA-sized rechargeable <span class="SpellE">Rayovak</span> <span class="SpellE">NiMh</span> batteries, ~$12 or so at <span class="SpellE">Walmart</span> or on Amazon or wherever, or you may even use <span class="SpellE"><i>nonrechargeable</i></span> Alkaline AA batteries. You could also buy 8 NiMH batteries from HobbyKing <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=25023&aff=281904" target="_blank">here</a> or <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10456&aff=281904" target="_blank">here</a>. <u>Note: again, the LiFe battery pack above will NOT work with the Bixler v1.1 RTF transmitter, so you'll have to use AA batteries in this case instead</u>. Whether you get the <span class="SpellE">LiFe</span> <span class="SpellE">Tx</span> battery pack above, or use 8 AA <span class="SpellE">NiMh</span> batteries, use the nice charger in item 2a to charge these batteries.</div>
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14)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Battery charger adapters, Male/Female XT60, $3 per pack of 5. <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9572&aff=281904</a>. Note: if you use the charger in item 2a, you can’t charge your batteries without this. If you ever buy other batteries in the future from other websites, or locally, you’ll also likely need these to change over the plugs on those future batteries, so that they are compatible with your plane, so I’d recommend getting 2 packs of these. <i> Personally, I love the XT60 connectors and the <span class="SpellE"><u>HobbyKing</u></span><u> version</u> of the JST connectors (other versions of the JST connector are lower quality), so I change over all of my battery connectors by soldering on either these (for high-amp applications, 15~60A) or the JST connectors below (for low-amp applications, approximately 3~18A).</i><br />
14.5) Battery charger lead (for the XT-60 connector), $3: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10266&aff=281904" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10266&aff=281904</a> </div>
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15)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Adapter for spare batteries (XT-60 to JST –allows you to plug the spare batteries directly into the plane without soldering a new plug onto the spare batteries [note: the <span class="SpellE">Bixler</span> v1.1 does not need this, and the <span class="SpellE">Dynam</span> may not either—depending on which connector they are putting on the plane currently—regardless, this is nice to have for future planes anyway]):<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18869&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18869&aff=281904</a>, get 1 of these for $1.70</div>
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16)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>JST connectors (male). Again, depending on what connector comes you’re your Hawk Sky, you may need these connectors for your battery/charger adapters instead. Regardless, you will find they come in handy for future planes: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9682&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9682&aff=281904</a>.</div>
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17)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>JST connectors (female). Almost undoubtedly you’ll need these little connectors in future planes, if not somewhere at some time in one of the planes above. <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9683&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=9683&aff=281904</a></div>
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18)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Parallel charge board (allows you to charge multiple batteries at once), $9, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14856&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14856&aff=281904</a></div>
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-WARNING: YOU MUST KNOW HOW TO DO LIPO BATTERY PARALLEL CHARGING PROPERLY OR YOU MAY CAUSE BATTERY DAMAGE AND OR FIRES, so for more info read my <a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/parallel-charging-your-lipo-batteries_22.html" target="_blank">parallel charging article here</a>.</div>
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19)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Parallel JST adapters (to plug into parallel charge board, depending on which connector your batteries use), get 6 of these, $1.50 each: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18868&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18868&aff=281904</a> OR solder your own together using the XT60 connectors and female JST connectors and the below soldering kit, OR just buy this to use for the main leads in parallel charging (this is my most recommended option): <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14852&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=14852&aff=281904</a>.</div>
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20)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Battery Voltage Checker (highly recommended) – allows you to easily see if your batteries are properly charged or not. Some even can be flown on your airplane in order to loudly beep when it’s time to land. I’d recommend this one (with programmable beeping alarm, to be used in flight): <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18588&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18588&aff=281904</a> AND 1 of the following--either this one: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10952&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10952&aff=281904</a> ($14), this one: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19946&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19946&aff=281904</a> ($8), OR this one: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=15941&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=15941&aff=281904</a> ($43).</div>
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Optional Flight Simulator</h2>
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1)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Excellent quality, Windows 7-compatible, <i>inexpensive</i> flight simulator--<span class="SpellE">Aerofly</span> EasyFly4 by <span class="SpellE">Ikarus</span>: <a href="http://shop.ikarus-usa.com/easyfly-4/easyfly4-starter-edition-with-game-commander/" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://shop.ikarus-usa.com/easyfly-4/easyfly4-starter-edition-with-game-commander/</a>, $40 with RC game controller!!!...OR, go all out and purchase the full version of <span class="SpellE">Aerofly</span> 5 for up to $300: <a href="http://shop.ikarus-usa.com/aerofly-5/" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://shop.ikarus-usa.com/aerofly-5/</a>. (I’d go with the $40 version above)<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">. For a review of the Ikarus flight simulators, check out<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpQaURDZ-ao" target="_blank"> this video review here</a> by one of my favorite RC aficionados, "NightFlyyer."</span></div>
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2)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Note: if you want other options, in my opinion, the <span class="SpellE">Ikarus</span> <span class="SpellE">Aerfly</span> simulator and the Great Planes <span class="SpellE">RealFlight</span> simulators are the two best RC flight simulators in the industry. So, if you want to check out the <span class="SpellE">RealFlight</span> option, here is their website: <a href="http://www.realflight.com/" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.realflight.com/</a>, here is where you can buy their $200 full version: <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCREN&P=ML" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCREN&P=ML</a>, and here is where you can buy their $100 basic version (unlike the $40 <span class="SpellE">Ikarus</span> version, this is the cheapest version of <span class="SpellE">RealFlight</span> available): <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXSG5&P=ML" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXSG5&P=ML</a>.</div>
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3)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Feel free to experiment with other, very inexpensive, RC simulators, as even the free or extremely cheap ones are quite useful, <i>so long as you can use a USB-type hand-held transmitter similar to a real RC transmitter. </i></div>
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Optional Soldering Kit</h2>
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21)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Soldering Iron, 60W, $8: <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=ML" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPR36&P=ML</a>. I recommend that you do NOT get a 30W iron—it’s not hot enough for soldering larger wires and connectors (ex: 8~10 gauge wires) which you may eventually need on future planes, and a 60W iron makes it <i>much easier</i> to solder hardware, such as pushrods and clevises, when necessary. Having the extra heat of a 60W iron over a 30W iron also makes soldering nearly any wire in general easier, as the heat can be applied over a <u>shorter period of time</u> (which is better for heat-sensitive electronics, as they will not heat up as much as they would from a 30W iron applying heat over a longer time), and the solder wicks into the wires faster. I use my 60W iron on all RC wires and hardware I solder, even down to as small as 30 gauge wire. If you plan on soldering very intricate parts or circuit boards, however, that is when you’d want the smaller tip and lower power of a 30W iron. </div>
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>22)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Solder: I prefer the 1 lb roll (will last you forever) of 0.062” Diameter 60/40 Rosin-Core solder–get at a local Radio Shack, item #64-008, ~$15</div>
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23)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Solder tip cleaner (tiny circular tin can at Radio Shack, item #64-020)—optional—necessary only if you have difficulty tinning the soldering iron tip, ~$8 maybe.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvo8XfXmVHtA2iErOGxfm-WGTWsSScU3_WECBxBEGNzBAmlfSfNj9gP3sZiHxS8rmKv0y8orIWf_Yv8jdbMHLbgAc3ggPYvS38leZoEmHrd1ywM2gS1M9HNZKuA9ivI8UnPGU79IAKh8Bk/s1600/image006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center; text-indent: -0.25in;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvo8XfXmVHtA2iErOGxfm-WGTWsSScU3_WECBxBEGNzBAmlfSfNj9gP3sZiHxS8rmKv0y8orIWf_Yv8jdbMHLbgAc3ggPYvS38leZoEmHrd1ywM2gS1M9HNZKuA9ivI8UnPGU79IAKh8Bk/s1600/image006.jpg" /></a>24)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Soldering stand (optional, since the soldering iron [item 21 above] comes with a cheap little stand)—buy at local Radio Shack, item #64-2078, $10 (see<a href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062740" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062740</a>) OR at <span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> for $3: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=21262&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=21262&aff=281904</a>.</div>
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25)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Multipack of heat shrink tubing, Radio Shack ~$8 maybe, OR at Harbor Freight Tools for a few dollars, OR even better yet, get an assortment (red <i>and</i> black for each size) of 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 mm heat shrink tubing here: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__375__58__Hardware_accessories_-Shrink_Tube.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__375__58__Hardware_accessories_-Shrink_Tube.html</a>.</div>
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26)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Heat gun, $20, Optional, but very nice to have (a regular lighter may be used to shrink heat shrink tubing instead): <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJD39&P=7" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJD39&P=7</a></div>
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27)<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Helping Hands, $3-$5 at Harbor Freight Tools – VERY HANDY for soldering wires and connectors without a second person’s help. Get at *least* 1 of these, but I prefer to have two: <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html</a>. Note: if you don’t have a local Harbor Freight Tools store, you can buy a similar item from <span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> instead (<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10615&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10615&aff=281904</a>), but after shipping costs you’d be better off just going to Harbor Freight if possible.</div>
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Optional Workshop Tools:</h2>
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1.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>A rotary tool is very nice to have, and has hundreds of uses. (For anyone looking to get deep into RC, the two most important power tools you may ever own are an 18V cordless drill and a nice<span class="SpellE">Dremel</span>-style rotary tool with a bunch of tips and accessories): </div>
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a.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Genuine 175~190W <span class="SpellE">Dremel</span> 4000 with very large accessory kit, $139 (I’ve owned this one since 2010, works fantastic: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUW0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUW0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00</a> OR</div>
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b.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span><span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> 160W <span class="SpellE">Dremel</span>-Style Rotary hand-tool—for only $15, and having good reviews, you can’t go wrong! Though I don’t own one of these, had I known about it before buying my<span class="SpellE">Dremel</span>, I’m sure I would have tried one of these out instead: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10489&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=10489&aff=281904</a>.</div>
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2.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span><span dir="LTR"></span>Top <span class="SpellE">Flite</span> Power Point Propeller Balancer, $20 – I’d say hands-down this is the best prop balancer on the market. It uses magnetic suspension for ultra low friction. The longer you are into RC airplanes, the more you’ll realize the importance of proper propeller balancing. All props need to be balanced, and some cheap plastic props come so badly out of balance when you get them that you’ll actually see a thrust decrease of up to 33% or so (estimated, based on experience) just due to the severe vibration. A well-balanced prop significantly decreases vibration, making poorly-balanced props usable, thereby saving you money while increasing thrust and increasing the longevity of your airplane and electronics: <a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHY61&P=ML" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHY61&P=ML</a><br />
-Note: to balance a prop, you'll need some medium-viscosity Super Glue (ie: CA, or cyanoacrylate) to add weight to the light prop blade, some sand-paper (220~280 grit or so) to lighten a prop blade and/or smooth added CA resin, and some "CA accelerator" to get the CA to cure almost instantly. Here are links to those items, except for the sand paper, which you can buy from your local hardware store: <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7173&aff=281904" target="_blank">HobbyKing medium CA ($3)</a>, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8456&aff=281904" target="_blank">2 oz. accelerator in pump spray bottle ($4)</a>, <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8457&aff=281904" target="_blank">8 oz. accelerator refill ($8)</a>.</div>
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Get Local Help From an RC Aircraft Club Near You!</h2>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>The Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) is the “Official national body for model aviation in the United States.” AMA-chartered clubs are a valuable resource to get started in this hobby, and often-times local clubs have people available who can help you learn to fly by attaching two radios together in a system known as a “buddy box,” or “trainer system.” Find a local club through the AMA’s website here: <a href="http://www.modelaircraft.org/" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.modelaircraft.org/</a> --> click on “Members & Clubs” (at the top) --> “Club Services” --> “Find a Club.” You may also click here (<a href="http://www.modelaircraft.org/membership/clubs.aspx" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.modelaircraft.org/membership/clubs.aspx</a>) and follow the link.</div>
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Other Good Beginner Plane Features to Look For:</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVqJrjUnk-u9LkWs6LCCbLRq0kP9ljgOWlht5VLJjJoNGOWcVJIGEgrMaZTZBDd1JEvOnQz3YWbcUZ48f-zzweb975pmCIrYZZxBgifLPz0TnY9gyllvG1PSOujyREldcG0REnZ_QfqGc/s1600/image007.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVqJrjUnk-u9LkWs6LCCbLRq0kP9ljgOWlht5VLJjJoNGOWcVJIGEgrMaZTZBDd1JEvOnQz3YWbcUZ48f-zzweb975pmCIrYZZxBgifLPz0TnY9gyllvG1PSOujyREldcG0REnZ_QfqGc/s320/image007.png" height="56" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>high wing (more stable than low or mid-wing designs)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>good dihedral, or polyhedral (greater roll stability)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>flat-bottomed airfoil (less aerobatic, but more gentle stall characteristics, slower-flying)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 10pt; line-height: 14px;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>tricycle landing gear, *not* tail-dragger style landing gear (tricycle is more stable, especially in the yaw axis when taking off and landing; tail-draggers can get very “squirelly” on take-off, and may even cartwheel down the runway or spin out of control if not careful with the rudder)<span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 14px;"><br clear="all" style="page-break-before: always;" /><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i>Examples of other planes with good beginner characteristics:<o:p></o:p></i></h2>
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Note: the airplane links under the pictures below are not clickable hyperlinks, so here are copies of those links that you can click on directly: </div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-Tower Trainer 40: </span><a href="http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCAS2&P=ML" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCAS2&P=ML</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-<span class="SpellE">Dynam</span> 182: </span><a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/60a-dy8938-trainer182-new-rtf-24g.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.nitroplanes.com/60a-dy8938-trainer182-new-rtf-24g.html</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-Airfield 182 Blue: </span><a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/93a300-1400-skytrainer182-blue-rtf-24g.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.nitroplanes.com/93a300-1400-skytrainer182-blue-rtf-24g.html</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-Airfield 182 Red: </span><a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/93a300-1400-skytrainer182-red-rtf-24g.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.nitroplanes.com/93a300-1400-skytrainer182-red-rtf-24g.html</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-<span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> Tuff Trainer: </span><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16808&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16808&aff=281904</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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I’d have to say that this Tuff Trainer is also an *excellent* and economical choice for a beginner. Though it is a tail-dragger (which is undesirable), it makes up for that by having a “prop-saver,” which protects the propeller in the (very likely) event of a nose-over. (A prop-saver is device that allows the propeller to be attached using a rubber O-ring, so that it flexes/bends back in the event of a nose-over or crash, and prevents the prop from breaking). This plane is also made of very tough EPP foam, should be easily repaired using a hot glue gun and strapping tape, and is 4-channels, so it has aileron control! </div>
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<a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16808&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=16808&aff=281904</a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>List of other beginner/trainer planes from HobbyKing.com:</b> <a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__433__191__Planes_ARF_RTF_KIT-Beginner_2FTrainer.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__433__191__Planes_ARF_RTF_KIT-Beginner_2FTrainer.html</a><b><o:p></o:p></b><br />
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<b>List of other EPP (VERY DURABLE) planes from <a href="http://crashtesthobby.com/" target="_blank">CrashTestHobby.com</a>. </b> For a beginner, check out the Albatross or Pelican! <a href="http://www.crashtesthobby.com/" target="_blank">http://www.crashtesthobby.com/</a></div>
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Features to Avoid for a Beginner Plane:</h2>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>low-winged aircraft<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>highly swept wings<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>EDF (Electric Ducted Fan) jets<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>highly scale aircraft<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>symmetrical airfoils<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>flat-plate airfoils<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>HUGE control surfaces<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>“3D” type aerobatic planes (note: “3D” refers to very aerobatic planes capable of hovering)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span dir="LTR"></span>tail-dragger landing gear configuration<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Examples of planes to <u>Avoid</u> for a Beginner:<o:p></o:p></i></h2>
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Note: the airplane links under the pictures below are not hot-links. Here are copies of those links that you can click on directly: </div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-3D Hawk: </span><a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/91a-3dhawk-arf.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.nitroplanes.com/91a-3dhawk-arf.html</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> or </span><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11339&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11339&aff=281904</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-<span class="SpellE">AirField</span> F-16: </span><a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/93a16-airfield-skygrey-rtf-24ghz.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.nitroplanes.com/93a16-airfield-skygrey-rtf-24ghz.html</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJy_E7_wCWB0JISqqCXoHdEaBIE9vHrbJ5kzVIO1C7ZqWCGj_-BzL73PAl5Q87pMUOXJRfvLPIagTV0yzRW1uMlAXZpmvLVUbSO0sRhNapUAYuSqxXH0xIiH7sjKvsdmHNvO7oCwkeNF1G/s1600/image011.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJy_E7_wCWB0JISqqCXoHdEaBIE9vHrbJ5kzVIO1C7ZqWCGj_-BzL73PAl5Q87pMUOXJRfvLPIagTV0yzRW1uMlAXZpmvLVUbSO0sRhNapUAYuSqxXH0xIiH7sjKvsdmHNvO7oCwkeNF1G/s640/image011.png" height="329" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here are the clickable hot links for the next two airplanes below: <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-<span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> T-28: </span><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18486&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18486&aff=281904</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 11pt;">-<span class="SpellE">HobbyKing</span> Nemesis: </span><a href="http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18838&aff=281904" style="color: purple;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18838&aff=281904</span></a><span style="font-size: 11pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NMkb_52_sxJLS3LbpgPphwuAA5xD8Mrpyvu8m7cqfoeXt_RuNoPFt1xu0ZkC3EGfggaWEpXmal_swspny7AnHBOgc9JNQfTCPqSsTL1Xv4m78ISEEvwP3A_Bq-oZUhNaTn6T4-P0JAEZ/s1600/image013.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NMkb_52_sxJLS3LbpgPphwuAA5xD8Mrpyvu8m7cqfoeXt_RuNoPFt1xu0ZkC3EGfggaWEpXmal_swspny7AnHBOgc9JNQfTCPqSsTL1Xv4m78ISEEvwP3A_Bq-oZUhNaTn6T4-P0JAEZ/s640/image013.png" height="328" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=5854741938955568545" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>-Now that you know what features to look for in a beginner plane, here is another good list of good tough, durable, EPP foam planes to look at. Try to choose the best plane for your skill level, OR choose one of the beginner planes I have previously recommended.</div>
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<a href="http://www.nitroplanes.com/techonearf.html" style="color: purple;" target="_blank">http://www.nitroplanes.com/techonearf.html</a></div>
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(Again, for a beginner, choose a high-wing “trainer” type plane with the beginner features previously described in this document, or perhaps one of the flying wings. For a more advanced pilot, you might try one of the super aerobatic, mid-wing “3D” designs. Note: “3D” means that the aircraft is extremely aerobatic and capable of hovering or otherwise flying below the stall speed of the main wing by “hanging” on the propeller—to do this the airplane must have a thrust greater than its weight, as well as very large control surfaces to control the plane in low-speed, stalled flight).<br />
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<span style="color: red; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><i>PLEASE LEAVE QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS BELOW.</i></span><br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-24386439218258896012013-01-07T19:26:00.000-08:002013-07-03T16:33:12.482-07:00My Website Links<span style="font-size: large;"><b>-Original Website here: </b><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru" target="_blank">https://sites.google.com/site/electricrcaircraftguru</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br />-Beginner RC Airplane Setup Recommendation here: </b></span><a href="http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">http://electricrcaircraftguy.blogspot.com/2013/01/beginner-rc-airplane-setup.html</span></a><br />
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</script></div>Gabriel Stapleshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10071071884455787806noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5854741938955568545.post-90224393323502042672013-01-07T09:11:00.000-08:002019-02-09T12:19:12.664-08:00Contact Me: Feedback? Corrections?SEE 3 EMAIL OPTIONS BELOW.<br />
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Date this section was added to website: 7 July 2013<br />
Last updated: 21 Jan. 2018<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Update History (newest on top):</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20171016 - added "Facebook Messenger" link</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20170826 - Added Amazon affiliate program statement, & keywords</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20170318 - Added link to my <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/01/consulting-work.html" target="_blank">Consulting Work</a> page</span><br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">-20160806 - Added png image of email, and link to my new "About me" page</span><br />
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<b><u>Writing comments is the preferred way I'd like to see your questions, so that when I answer them, others can benefit from the answers too</u>. </b><b>However, if you want to contact me directly, here is how: </b></div>
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<span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;">1) Do you need expert support on a product you've purchased from me? (ex: my <u>Computa Pranksta</u> mouse jiggler device sold on <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Jiggler-50-Settings-Makes-Hacked-Randomly-Gibberish/dp/B06ZYZ2GTB/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1525968622&sr=8-1&keywords=computa+pranksta&dpID=41RMtovbdhL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&linkCode=ll1&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=8fea11e7604253d27fa78d81f371ea05" target="_blank">Amazon</a> and <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/eRCaGuy-Programmable-Computa-Pranksta-USB-Device-Mouse-Jiggler-50-User-Settings-/232694181416" target="_blank">Ebay</a>?)</span></div>
Then email me here:<br />
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<i><br /></i><i><br /></i><i><br /></i><i><b>I GUARANTEE my products! I will practically bend over backwards to make sure they work for you! </b>If you need help getting it to work or just want to say thanks or give suggestions for improvements, please email me! The <a href="https://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/04/computa-pranksta-user-manual.html" target="_blank">user manual is here</a>.</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: large; font-weight: 700;">2) Are you a professional seeking PAID advice or paid <a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2017/01/consulting-work.html" target="_blank">custom embedded work?</a> </span></div>
Then click on the link just above, and email me here:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi79398ug1eRPI1jB9T0CS0kV8zKczFF6YH6BvYRLpGIsPykTiymZpCYIm9uplUhs7FR9DMvjMzX-PuLl0jFsyzh46xWIiHgPt53qhTU8FLZNjYY8dkNTmOz-dJoaPN2dm414X5fUAa9aUp/s1600/gabriel%2540ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com+email+address+Font+12+100%2525+zoom.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="24" data-original-width="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi79398ug1eRPI1jB9T0CS0kV8zKczFF6YH6BvYRLpGIsPykTiymZpCYIm9uplUhs7FR9DMvjMzX-PuLl0jFsyzh46xWIiHgPt53qhTU8FLZNjYY8dkNTmOz-dJoaPN2dm414X5fUAa9aUp/s1600/gabriel%2540ElectricRCAircraftGuy.com+email+address+Font+12+100%2525+zoom.PNG" /></a><br />
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<i>I can give you my phone number of course after our initial contact and we can discuss your project and determine if it's a good fit for us. My work is 100% guaranteed or your money back. See link above for details. </i><br />
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<span style="font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">3) Are you a hobbyist seeking FREE advice? </span></div>
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Then email me here.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQINvJooXNLoXQPLKWpLB9Sc6LdqVOiy1p04iW7SbtUuIJ4ZFG-cRya_TqDvifk57fmibf3He332gBKfq8CYULMNVf3tgKEkfKSiEnN4v0Y2alM2VPgMKp0EEUbaWrrOIXNFtr4IQ5P_h5/s1600/email+-+rcflyyer%2540gmail.com+Font+12+100%2525+zoom.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="24" data-original-width="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQINvJooXNLoXQPLKWpLB9Sc6LdqVOiy1p04iW7SbtUuIJ4ZFG-cRya_TqDvifk57fmibf3He332gBKfq8CYULMNVf3tgKEkfKSiEnN4v0Y2alM2VPgMKp0EEUbaWrrOIXNFtr4IQ5P_h5/s1600/email+-+rcflyyer%2540gmail.com+Font+12+100%2525+zoom.PNG" /></a></div>
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<i>I do not guarantee a response to your email, but I do hope to be able to find the time to respond, and I certainly do make an effort to do so.</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Other links:</span></b><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ElectricRCAircraftGuy/" target="_blank">Visit and like my page on Facebook</a></span></b><br />
<a href="http://m.me/ElectricRCAircraftGuy" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">Message me on Facebook</span></a><br />
<br />
<b><a href="https://www.amazon.com/sp/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&asin=&isAmazonFulfilled=1&isCBA=&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&orderID=&seller=A39RNG3S2157PL&tab=Products&linkCode=ll2&tag=wwwel-20&linkId=b97d71c3635c2eb7c1b2b5d8b1cd11af" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Buy my products on Amazon!</span></a></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://www.electricrcaircraftguy.com/2016/01/contribute.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">Donate</span></a></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Thanks!</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Gabriel Staples</b><br />
<b>owner/embedded systems engineer </b><br />
<b>Electric RC Aircraft Guy, LLC</b><br />
<br />
END<br />
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